Before the great SH purge I had pictures and information on how to and where to remove material from the Brake to allow the Suppressor to lock up tight on that last remaining tooth. Unfortunately it was lost. Does anybody here have any info on this and pictures of where to either mill off or sand down the contact area?
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Suppressors AAC 51-Tooth fix for loose SDN-6...Anybody have it?
- Thread starter Ultraman550
- Start date
I can tell you how to do it but do not have pictures of the process.
You want to put the brake into a lathe on a dow rod or maybe if you can find an old threaded barrel, cut it down to about 5" and use it in your jaw.
Use a cutter that will allow a 45 degree shoulder to be cut into the face of the shoulder area (in front of the ratchet teeth but behind the heavy threads)
take a small amount off at a time, maybe ".005 per pass. Each time you make a pass put the suppressor on. When you get to that next click it should be super tight.
I have done this to several of my mounts and the accuracy shrank down considerably on all hosts. I highly recommend it. The time it takes you to do this in is far worth the reward vs not using the can because of its wobble.
Good luck.
I was just poking fun at how pathetic their opinion is of their customers.
They got my $ for a Pilot years back but it would take a miracle for me to buy another of their products.
I'd rather support a craftsman than a CEO.
They got my $ for a Pilot years back but it would take a miracle for me to buy another of their products.
I'd rather support a craftsman than a CEO.
The top of the beveled surface where the teeth are cut usually have a little "extra" material there, not quite a bur but you can feel it. Gently stoning this may help those that are close to clicking tight. You can also stone that beveled area by hand and use machinist blue, very carefully, and it takes a long time, but you can get a really good tight lock that way too. In either case, you want it to be close to locking (really loose) if you are gonna do it by hand with a stone. It'll take forever otherwise, and be harder to keep true. I did this with one that was really close to locking, and it locks up really tight now. Nice and true too.
Other people have hammered fender washers into the same bevel and cut to fit over the brake with emery material glued on, and attached to a pipe such that they have a hand held sanding disc slipped over the barrel/muzzle attachment, and they then rotate one or the other, depending on how they made it and set it up.
Any way you do it, it's critical that you keep that surface uniform; use the machinist blue and put the can on often. Access to a lathe and doing it as described above is by far the best way to go about it. When I have to fix my other mount, the 7.62 mount that wiggles so much I can see the can eclipse the bore, I'll have to have that one done by lathe.
Yep, I bought my last AAC too.
Other people have hammered fender washers into the same bevel and cut to fit over the brake with emery material glued on, and attached to a pipe such that they have a hand held sanding disc slipped over the barrel/muzzle attachment, and they then rotate one or the other, depending on how they made it and set it up.
Any way you do it, it's critical that you keep that surface uniform; use the machinist blue and put the can on often. Access to a lathe and doing it as described above is by far the best way to go about it. When I have to fix my other mount, the 7.62 mount that wiggles so much I can see the can eclipse the bore, I'll have to have that one done by lathe.
Yep, I bought my last AAC too.
I had to do this mod to my 223 adaptor along with another mod I highly recommend. I line bored out the bullet exit hole and suppressor fingers to 3/8" diameter. This made it look like my 308 adaptor that has given zero trouble. It also let me see the 223 barrel muzzle was jammed into the back plate inside of the threaded cut. I used a peel washer to shim the adaptor away from the muzzle and time it. End of problems. Accuracy restored.
No further comment on the company's retardedness in selling this inadequate piece of equipment at such a high price and not fixing the problem after repeated complaints about it.
No further comment on the company's retardedness in selling this inadequate piece of equipment at such a high price and not fixing the problem after repeated complaints about it.
First I'll preface this with the fact that I have no personal experience with AAC's customer service so this is only what I've heard second hand. Take this then for what it's worth. Our shop recently received our SOTL and started carrying suppressors from several company's, one of which is AAC. I've been told that AAC had a batch of 51T mounts that were not hardened to spec and therefore caused more "shimmy" than they should. I've heard that they're exchanging them for a properly hardened mount so you may want to contact them and ask about that. Again this is only what I've heard indirectly so may work, may not. Worth a shot though.
Ok, I just went through this so I'm going to share a tip that really helped me. Carolina Shooters Supply sells some thread alignment tools for $7 each. They are meant to slide in your barrel when using a hand tap. I used the tool to screw inside my AAC wobble-mount then I mounted it on my drill. This allowed me to turn the break while using a file and emery cloth. I would take a little off, pull it out of the drill and lock the shaft in my vice and screw the suppressor in place to see how much more was needed to get to the next tooth. It took me 30 minutes per mount (I had 4 to do) but eventually I got there on each. Don't get frustrated, that 45 degree edge is hard material, you need a sharp quality file and patience.
Here is the link to where to get the thread alignment tool. They make them for 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 SAIGA AR15 TAT THREAD ALIGNMENT TOOL 223
Here is a picture.
Here is the link to where to get the thread alignment tool. They make them for 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 SAIGA AR15 TAT THREAD ALIGNMENT TOOL 223
Here is a picture.
If you have an issue with lock up just send it in to CS and they'll replace the whole ratchet mechanism free of charge. I did and it was back in my hands in under two weeks...
