Absolutely mystified at how to use this optic

[Tiribulus]

It's entirely possible that I'm just an idiot so feel free to say so if that's the case.

This is a Bushnell AR Optic 1-6 LPVO.
The manual tells me this:

MOA all over there:

And yet the turrets are in MILS:

It's bad enough that I just CANNOT seem to grasp how to use the mil system because of some inexplicable mental block, but then there seems to be conflicting information on top of it. I have read numerous articles, numerous forum conversations and watched some videos and it just gets worse. It's like I'm dealing with a foreign language.

Forgive my terseness please, but it's late and I've spent hours on this and am quite frustrated.

Any insight would make you my new hero.

Thanks

 

[6.5SH]

Don't get wrapped around the axle, you won't be adjusting it on the fly without a real turret.
When zeroing at 100 yards a 0.1 Mil click is approximately 1/3rd of an inch.

 

[alamo5000]

These kinds of optics are designed to NOT adjust, meaning you are not going to dial up X number of mils/moa and shoot. They are for running and gunning on the fly. Use the reticle as a hold over reference.

Just zero it and forget about the turrets.

Personally I don't like this kind of system, but it works for a lot of people. I am also in 100% agreement that everything should match. MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA, but never MIL/MOA...

 

[Covertnoob5]

First things first. Mils and MOA are different routes to the same answer. Do not think in inches or centimeters. Those don't matter. If you missed low by .3 mil you missed low by .3 mil. Period. If you missed by .25 moa low then that's it period.

With this particular optic, I'd just use the gross adjustment of .1 mil is about 1/3 of an inch. But after that don't try to convert anything when using that reticle.
That BDC reticle is for certain yardage. Just like the diagram provided your load matches what they calibrated the reticle for. If you're shooting something different those lines will not match the yardage calibrated in the book.

 

[CEO10KaDAY]

You sure your manual doesn’t also have a page breaking the reticle down in MILs? Some scopes come in both but don’t print separate reticle specific manuals.

 

[pmclaine]

Your ammo needs to be traveling on the same ballistic path the reticle is set for to work as intended.

Read the manual for the ammo it is intended for, try to get that ammo. Zero per usual than hold.

If you are only shooting steel, plus MOA targets, it should work fine. Groups you want something else.

Of course it can be used for any speed ammo if you learn how your own ammo tracks compared to the BDC.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Divide these numbers by 3.43 and you will have the mils equivalent. For example the furthest outside number is 16.00 moa

16/3.43=4.66mils

 

[308pirate]

It's entirely possible that I'm just an idiot so feel free to say so if that's the case.

This is a Bushnell AR Optic 1-6 LPVO.
The manual tells me this:

MOA all over there:
View attachment 8227663


And yet the turrets are in MILS:

View attachment 8227666

It's bad enough that I just CANNOT seem to grasp how to use the mil system because of some inexplicable mental block, but then there seems to be conflicting information on top of it. I have read numerous articles, numerous forum conversations and watched some videos and it just gets worse. It's like I'm dealing with a foreign language.

Forgive my terseness please, but it's late and I've spent hours on this and am quite frustrated.

Any insight would make you my new hero.

Thanks

What about milliradians is confusing you?

 

[pmclaine]

Never even noticed the mils/MOA retardation because the whole idea of the design is meant to provide an optic for peeps that don't want that level of thought.

Move the clicky things so that at 100 yards where you put the dot the bullets will go than use trust that everything else will work.

 

[Tiribulus]

Thanks so much to all you guys for the responses. Really appreciate it.

What about milliradians is confusing you?

Answering this might also clarify for the other responses as well.

It's not the math. Of course I can do simple math. It's translating it through the scope into what I'm seeing on a target. After all this research I still don't understand how to zero this optic. Maybe I did too much reading/watching. My head hurt after a while. If I'm hitting high right, how do I know what to do with the adjustments to make poa match poi?

You're probably staring at your screens wondering what's wrong with this guy? This is brain dead simple. That's what everybody says, but for some reason, it just won't sink in with me. Hopefully there's a forehead smacking moment coming here where I laugh at myself for ever having had a hard time with this.

You sure your manual doesn’t also have a page breaking the reticle down in MILs? Some scopes come in both but don’t print separate reticle specific manuals.

I don't have a lot of money. This is a cheap LPVO. That's all there is for this reticle. Everybody (on other sites) keeps using windage examples for how to calculate what to do according to the wndage markings on the reticle, but there are no windage markings on this reticle. It seems that Bushnell just assumes that you already know how to zero this thing and they just tell you how to calculate bullet drop for distance.

My problem is I can't even get it zeroed because the turrets and the targets seem to be from different universes in my head.

I bought this LPVO because it was on a great sale and came with an unspectacular, but functional mount from what I was reading. I figured at least it wasn't a 99 dollar Amazon special. I wouldn't have chosen this reticle style had I understood what it was beforehand.

Oh yeah. This is an AR I built over time largely on an Aero foundation. Hanson barrel is a recent upgrade from the government profile barrel I started with. It's a decent rifle. I just need to get over this mental hurdle with getting this optic zeroed.

Thanks very much again.

 

[308pirate]

Thanks so much to all you guys for the responses. Really appreciate it.


Answering this might also clarify for the other responses as well.

It's not the math. Of course I can do simple math. It's translating it through the scope into what I'm seeing on a target. After all this research I still don't understand how to zero this optic. Maybe I did too much reading/watching. My head hurt after a while. If I'm hitting high right, how do I know what to do with the adjustments to make poa match poi?

OK, I'm going to limit this discussion to your particular scope and reticle so as not to add a bunch of extra info that, while you should eventually understand, isn't helpful exactly right now.

Minutes of angle (more correctly minutes of arc) and milliradians (1/1000 of a radian) are both angular units of measurement. Like there is for all other units of measurement (linear/pressure/whatever) there are already conversion factors that have been figured out.

In this case, 1 milliradian equals 3.6 inches per 100 yards.

Why am I ignoring MOA? Because we're going to zero with a target that has a grid laid out in fractions of an inch. But you say wait 1 MOA = 1 in at 100 yards. Nope....1 moa covers a distance of 1.047 inches at 100 yards.

That .047" is why 1 milliradian = 3.6" per hundred yards but equals 3.43 moa

So now let's zero the scope.

1) Get your shit all setup at the range however you like

2) Post a target that has a 1/4" grid all over it 100 yards away

3) Shoot the rifle

4) Look through some powerful enough spotting scope (or walk 100 yards) and use the grid to figure out the horizontal and vertical distance that separated the point of impact from the point of aim. Write that shit down.

5) Take those two measurements in inches and divide each one by 3.6. Whatever the answers are, round to the nearest 0.1. Example: you're 2.25" low at 100 yards. 2.25/3.6 = .625 mils (short for milliradians). Since your turrets adjust in increments of 0.1 milliradians, your answer is adjust up by 0.6 milliradians. Same shit for windage

6) Wash, rinse, repeat until bullets hit where you aim at 100 yards.

7) Use the drop lines on the reticle for the appropriate distance when shooting farther than 100 yards

8) Impacts will be close enough because that reticle is not a precision rifle reticle. Think of it as a good enough to hit minute of deer (or man), kinda like an infantryman uses a rifle.

 

[308pirate]

Or you can bypass all the math bullshit and use a milliradian grid target. Each square in them is .1 mil wide by .1 mil tall.

Count the squares, that's how many milliradians you need to move the reticle. If you're four squares right and two low, you need to adjust the scope .4 mils left and .2 mils up.

 

[Makinchips208]

Thanks so much to all you guys for the responses. Really appreciate it.


Answering this might also clarify for the other responses as well.

It's not the math. Of course I can do simple math. It's translating it through the scope into what I'm seeing on a target. After all this research I still don't understand how to zero this optic. Maybe I did too much reading/watching. My head hurt after a while. If I'm hitting high right, how do I know what to do with the adjustments to make poa match poi?

You're probably staring at your screens wondering what's wrong with this guy? This is brain dead simple. That's what everybody says, but for some reason, it just won't sink in with me. Hopefully there's a forehead smacking moment coming here where I laugh at myself for ever having had a hard time with this.

I don't have a lot of money. This is a cheap LPVO. That's all there is for this reticle. Everybody (on other sites) keeps using windage examples for how to calculate what to do according to the wndage markings on the reticle, but there are no windage markings on this reticle. It seems that Bushnell just assumes that you already know how to zero this thing and they just tell you how to calculate bullet drop for distance.

My problem is I can't even get it zeroed because the turrets and the targets seem to be from different universes in my head.

I bought this LPVO because it was on a great sale and came with an unspectacular, but functional mount from what I was reading. I figured at least it wasn't a 99 dollar Amazon special. I wouldn't have chosen this reticle style had I understood what it was beforehand.

Oh yeah. This is an AR I built over time largely on an Aero foundation. Hanson barrel is a recent upgrade from the government profile barrel I started with. It's a decent rifle. I just need to get over this mental hurdle with getting this optic zeroed.

Thanks very much again.

The keep it this simple. Move the scope 3 “clicks” for 1” at 100 yards. Elevation or windage.

Zero at 100 yards. Shoot your group, 3 or 5 shots, whatever.
Your example, let’s say you are high, measure it, say your group is 3” high, adjust the turret “down” enough clicks to equal 3”, that means count 9 clicks down on turret.
Repeat as needed.

Estimates and not exact, but it will work.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

Or get the rifle sandbagged with the optic aiming at the bullseye at 100 yards. Shoot three rounds. Then, adjust the turrets until the reticle is at the point of impact. You should now be dead on or pretty close at that point. No need to do math or even know whether the adjustment clicks are mils or MOA, and no need to know anything about the reticle except where the 100 yard center dot is.

 

[Tokay444]

If you're hitting high right, you need to adjust the reticle up and to the right. On the turrets, that will be down and to the left.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

Or you can bypass all the math bullshit and use a milliradian grid target. Each square in them is .1 mil wide by .1 mil tall.

Count the squares, that's how many milliradians you need to move the reticle. If you're four squares right and two low, you need to adjust the scope .4 mils left and .2 mils up.

Thanks for sharing that. I just printed it out. 16cm by 22 cm. Appreciate it.

 

[308pirate]

Those of you giving the OP oversimplified shortcuts are helping him zero the rifle but not helping him understand what he is doing.

There is a difference

 

[B y r o n]

From my viewpoint, this is just another example of poor documentation from the manufacturer. If the turrets are in MIL than the reticle dimensions should be in MIL. Whoever wrote the documentation or created the graphics for the documentation wasn't given the right information. Sort of like Ikea instructions.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

Those of you giving the OP oversimplified shortcuts are helping him zero the rifle but not helping him understand what he is doing.

There is a difference

You are correct, of course, but I just thought I would help him get zeroed, and then he can use the BDC reticle to shoot out farther and have some fun.

There are plenty of how to convert MOA to mils and what it means at the target sort of posts up above mine for him to study.

In short, since the turrets are not target turrets, and he will not be using them at the range other than to zero at 100 yards, the fact that they are in mils is really irrelevant.

If this is his main SHTF gun, he just needs to confirm that the reticles match for the ammunition he will be using at 300, 400, 500 and 600 yards, and then practice, practice, practice, then practice at range estimation, and he will be all set to defend his homestead and family from close quarters out to distance, or shoot at government troops during the upcoming civil war. He does not really need to understand what he is doing so long as the reticle works, and he won't know that until he zeroes and starts trying it out at the distances indicated.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

It's entirely possible that I'm just an idiot so feel free to say so if that's the case.

This is a Bushnell AR Optic 1-6 LPVO.
The manual tells me this:

MOA all over there:
View attachment 8227663


And yet the turrets are in MILS:

View attachment 8227666

It's bad enough that I just CANNOT seem to grasp how to use the mil system because of some inexplicable mental block, but then there seems to be conflicting information on top of it. I have read numerous articles, numerous forum conversations and watched some videos and it just gets worse. It's like I'm dealing with a foreign language.

Forgive my terseness please, but it's late and I've spent hours on this and am quite frustrated.

Any insight would make you my new hero.

Thanks

This is a second focal plane scope, Tiribulus, which means that the reticle does not change size as you adjust the magnification. So those MOA indications in the manual only work for one magnification setting.

Also, there is no parallax adjustment. It is set at the factory at 100 yards, so further distances may be blurry or may, if you move your head around, the target may move across the reticle.

Bushnell says 55 to 62 grain bullets, so experiment and see which one works for these reticles to be accurate, and, if not dead on, figure out at what distances they are dead on and then use that, instead. E.g., if the first holdover (300 reticle) with 62 grain bullets is actually dead on at 275 yards, then just make a note of that and realize that is where the reticle is accurate - if you want hits at 275 yards, there is where you aim. It is actually a holdover for 275 yards instead of 300. If you want to holdover for 300 yards, then you are going to need to place the first reticle a little bit higher. With practice you will figure out how much higher for the holdover.

 

[308pirate]

From my viewpoint, this is just another example of poor documentation from the manufacturer. If the turrets are in MIL than the reticle dimensions should be in MIL. Whoever wrote the documentation or created the graphics for the documentation wasn't given the right information. Sort of like Ikea instructions.

True, but we can't control that.

What we can control is having the knowledge and understanding to make it work no matter what.

 

[Makinchips208]

Those of you giving the OP oversimplified shortcuts are helping him zero the rifle but not helping him understand what he is doing.

There is a difference

Correct. You covered it well in post 11 and 12.
The op said he was “frustrated”, had read “articles”, “forums” and “watched videos” and had a “mental block”. I know personally I don’t learn much when I get like that. I also don’t like oversimplification like I recommended, but it works to get zeroed if that’s the only goal.
But hopefully they can get sighted in enough to have a good day and feel better. Then they can study your posts and hopefully understand it moving forward.

 

[MarshallDodge]

@Tribulus

I am repeating what some of the others are saying, just showing here how I do the math.

Can you comprehend converting centimeters to inches? Mils to MOA is no different, except that one is linear units and the other is angular- similar to degrees.

I repeat, both Mil and MOA are measuring angle, not inches or centimeters, but it translates to linear differences on paper or steel, etc.

Think about it. When you dial a scope up or down, you are basically changing the angle of the barrel so that it will hit higher or lower on the target. The same thing happens when you use the BDC reticle.

Holding on the 400 yard hash in the reticle=
7.57 MOA or converting to Mils= 7.57/3.4 which equals 2.2 Mils. If you wanted to dial that instead, you would take 2.2 Mils and divide that by .1, result is 22 clicks.

If you are zeroing on paper at 100 yards, and your impacts are 6.5 inches vertical from the point of aim- Take 6.5, divide by .34 to convert to .1 Mil clicks, result is 19 clicks.

Hope that helps.

 

[nick338]

Mils are very simple if you just think in terms of 10. 1 Mil is 3.6" at 100 yards, so if you have .1 mil turrets, every adjustment you make moves the reticle .36" at 100 yards. Shoot, measure, adjust and zero. That is the only function of the these turrets.

The reticle shown with MOA references is nothing more than a hold on target at the specified distances. As long as you're using the ammo that it was designed around, there's no need to even think about MOA or conversions. Zero it and verify the ammo makes hits at the corresponding distances and you're good to go. Don't dwell on windage as it's irrelevant with that reticle.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

You sure your manual doesn’t also have a page breaking the reticle down in MILs? Some scopes come in both but don’t print separate reticle specific manuals.

It doesn't. Even the European language pages use MOA, but they convert the yards to meters and state both (100 yards/91,40 m). The only differences are for each caliber, 6.5, .308, rimfire, etc. and one reticle that is in mils.

 

[roostercogburn98]

From my viewpoint, this is just another example of poor documentation from the manufacturer. If the turrets are in MIL than the reticle dimensions should be in MIL. Whoever wrote the documentation or created the graphics for the documentation wasn't given the right information. Sort of like Ikea instructions.

Not to derail the thread, but I guess we’ll just forget about the MK series with moa turrets and a mil dot reticle. One sought after clone scopes seems to defy all logic, yet it keeps humping and sweating

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

Not to derail the thread, but I guess we’ll just forget about the MK series with moa turrets and a mil dot reticle. One sought after clone scopes seems to defy all logic, yet it keeps humping and sweating

To be clear, the reticle above is neither mils nor MOA. It is just a bullet drop reticle with holdover hashes for certain distances. The manual, however, stated an angular measurement for the holdover reticles, and it stated the angle in MOA.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I think that a lot of folks here are way overthinking this. For instance, I haven't seen (I do admit to reading this in a quick scan) any references to LRF's. (Laser rangefinder).

Scope and rifle get sighting at 100yd, or whatever distance the directions sheet specifies.

Thereafter, the knobs are left strictly alone, and the LRF finding dictates which crosshair is the relevant one to align near the target.

LRF, align crosshair, bang, done.

This system is the only one on my rifles. I chose it because it's the fastest means I've tried that delivers a close aiming point. It is no longer available, being replaced by something that costs a lot more, and now also requires knob fiddling.

If the LRF says it's between Crosshairs, you use that portion of the vertical crosshair as an imaginary crosshair, superimposing it onto the target.

Each scope's aiming points are calculated to be in sync with the rifle chambering's drop data.

Simple and quick as that.

Greg

 

[Tiribulus]

Wow. You guys are really great. Seriously. Appreciate all this helpful response alot.

I just got back from the range, but have some work to do. I'll do my best to get an update here later. The short version for now is that, while not probably perfect yet, the trip ended by ringing the 8 inch steel 20 outta 20 on the 200 yard range. That's the longest my CLUB has.

 

[roostercogburn98]

To be clear, the reticle above is neither mils nor MOA. It is just a bullet drop reticle with holdover hashes for certain distances. The manual, however, stated an angular measurement for the holdover reticles, and it stated the angle in MOA.

Mk4 series is the SAME animal. The reticle says nothing of angular measurements, however the manual states otherwise. The Mk4 manual is also regurgitated verbatim in the GTA 07-10-004, Sniper Quick Reference referenced from FM 3-22.10.

The measurements are GIVEN for you, not represented on the reticle. It is up to the end user to figure them out and use accordingly. Both scope boxes give you the same amount of info.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

Probably seemed like state of the art when the engineers were drawing it up, a brave new future of using technology to shoot.


P.S. It's not like it is a bad idea in theory, especially compared to just crosshairs, when extending your range out to 300 meters and beyond.

 

[Tiribulus]

Not to slight anyone who took the time to respond here, but it's not possible to address everybody specifically.

A couple points.

My main concern for the moment is getting this rifle shooting straight as some have said. I just want to get it zeroed. For now. I have every intention of learning the technical aspects of why when I can. I love that kinda stuff as anyone who knows me will tell you. I'm just as untested in the why as well as the how.

I'm still not entirely clear on how this sighting system works, but I'm getting closer.

Another problem and a big one is that I don't have a really stable rest. I might be able to rig up a SANDBAG outfit. Or get somebody with a good sled to let me borrow it for a little while. The gun has a Magpul bipod (I know not the greatest), but I don't have a good rear bag, Which I've been meaning to get for a while, but there's only so much money.

This is a big deal because no matter how hard I try, I have a tough time keeping the rifle perfectly still while firing it so I don't have 100% confidence that what I'm seeing on the target represents only the optic. Or the gun for that matter.

Complicating things even further, I will be 60 in a few months and my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

It still seems to be hitting a LITTLE high and left on paper. I ran out of time and will tackle that next time out and hopefully by that time I'll have a firmer grasp on the technical details of this system. This time I more or less played with it until I got it close.

EDIT: Oh yeah. Yes this is a 223/556 AR which is what this LPVO is designed for.

 

[nick338]

Can you post a picture of the last target you shot at 100 yards? If not measure how hight and how much left the center of your group is away from your point of aim.

 

[Tiribulus]

Can you post a picture of the last target you shot at 100 yards? If not measure how high and how much left the center of your group is away from your point of aim.

Oh boy I didn't get any pictures and didn't think to save the targets

 

[nick338]

We can get you centered but need either a target or some measurements.

 

[Tiribulus]

We can get you centered but need either a target or some measurements.

Many times I do get pictures of targets, but I had my 92 year old landlady with me, just to get her outta the house, and had to look after her as well. It didn't occur to me this time.

I try to get out once a week. With my other guns too. The range is a half hour outta town and my truck is horrific on gas lol.

I'll be sure to get some next time if I still need this kinda help.
Thanks

 

[6.5SH]

Not to slight anyone who took the time to respond here, but it's not possible to address everybody specifically.

A couple points.

My main concern for the moment is getting this rifle shooting straight as some have said. I just want to get it zeroed. For now. I have every intention of learning the technical aspects of why when I can. I love that kinda stuff as anyone who knows me will tell you. I'm just as untested in the why as well as the how.

I'm still not entirely clear on how this sighting system works, but I'm getting closer.

Another problem and a big one is that I don't have a really stable rest. I might be able to rig up a SANDBAG outfit. Or get somebody with a good sled to let me borrow it for a little while. The gun has a Magpul bipod (I know not the greatest), but I don't have a good rear bag, Which I've been meaning to get for a while, but there's only so much money.

This is a big deal because no matter how hard I try, I have a tough time keeping the rifle perfectly still while firing it so I don't have 100% confidence that what I'm seeing on the target represents only the optic. Or the gun for that matter.

Complicating things even further, I will be 60 in a few months and my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

It still seems to be hitting a LITTLE high and left on paper. I ran out of time and will tackle that next time out and hopefully by that time I'll have a firmer grasp on the technical details of this system. This time I more or less played with it until I got it close.

EDIT: Oh yeah. Yes this is a 223/556 AR which is what this LPVO is designed for.

Make a rear bag out of a knotted sock 1/2 filled with whatever filler you have on hand or is cheap (dried beans/corn/rice/poly beads/airsoft BB's etc.)
Is pretty much what anyone here over 40 years old started out with.

 

[Tiribulus]

Once I get the bench rest situation hammered out I'll get it absolutely zeroed, but it's doing pretty good. from the Magpul bipod. 200 yards.

 

[Malum Prohibitum]

So are you aiming using a holdover somewhere between the 100 yards and 300 yards on the reticle shown in the original post? I assume closer to the 100 yard aiming point than the 300, since a .223 or 5.56 bullet only drops about three-four inches at 200 yards, compared to about a foot at 300 . . .

Let us know how you are using the reticle.

 

[chevy_man]

Not to slight anyone who took the time to respond here, but it's not possible to address everybody specifically.

A couple points.

My main concern for the moment is getting this rifle shooting straight as some have said. I just want to get it zeroed. For now. I have every intention of learning the technical aspects of why when I can. I love that kinda stuff as anyone who knows me will tell you. I'm just as untested in the why as well as the how.

I'm still not entirely clear on how this sighting system works, but I'm getting closer.

Another problem and a big one is that I don't have a really stable rest. I might be able to rig up a SANDBAG outfit. Or get somebody with a good sled to let me borrow it for a little while. The gun has a Magpul bipod (I know not the greatest), but I don't have a good rear bag, Which I've been meaning to get for a while, but there's only so much money.

This is a big deal because no matter how hard I try, I have a tough time keeping the rifle perfectly still while firing it so I don't have 100% confidence that what I'm seeing on the target represents only the optic. Or the gun for that matter.

Complicating things even further, I will be 60 in a few months and my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

It still seems to be hitting a LITTLE high and left on paper. I ran out of time and will tackle that next time out and hopefully by that time I'll have a firmer grasp on the technical details of this system. This time I more or less played with it until I got it close.

EDIT: Oh yeah. Yes this is a 223/556 AR which is what this LPVO is designed for.

You can make your own bag. Take a few long socks and fill them with dirt or sand at the range.
My Mom used to make many shooting bags for us kids with old blue jeans. She'd just sew up a bag of whatever size, and we'd shovel sand in. The knees and crotch always go bad first, so a pair with blown knees can donate the thigh and shin areas to have 4 bags of 2 sizes for nothing but $2 in thread.


Once you get the gun steady where it's not moving shoot 3 shots aiming at the center of a target. Now turn the scope knobs until the reticle is in the center of those 3 shots.

Now shoot another 3 shot group at the center of the target and they should all land in the center (or at least within your capability for group size).
Repeat and adjust as necessary.


I'd suggest paper with a cardboard backer. Steel can show differences if it's still moving. You can quite literally put a few rocks in the bottom of a decent sized cardboard box if you don't have a target stand. And a piece of notebook paper, a straight edge ($1 ruler) and a sharpie can make $.01 targets.

 

[Tiribulus]

So are you aiming using a holdover somewhere between the 100 yards and 300 yards on the reticle shown in the original post?

Yes. Exactly this. It's close, but the last time I shot paper at 100 (using the dot on the top of the reticle) It was about an inch, but a little high and left. I want to get it more stable than I am before bothering to zero it precisely.

Today I had the 92 year old landlady with me and was just plinking.

I only have 2 ARs and this is the only one I've built completely from parts The big stuff is mostly Aero, (M4E1 receivers, BCG, AGB, enhanced buffer tube) including the Hanson barrel I just put in it. Everything else is a mish mash of parts. The trigger is the old CMC 3.5 pound straight bow I got for a song with an included LPK for free a couple holiday sales ago.

Pretty vanilla setup, but it shoots soft and 100% reliable.

This was some cheap 55gr X-Tac FMJ-BT I got for 8 a box from Aim Surplus.

All in all I can't complain about the performance for what I have into it.

Both time and money are tight, but I still plan to do something along the lines of what @chevy_man posted above.

 

[Tiribulus]

I bought a Birchwood Casey 35 dollar chintz-o-matic front and rear bag set that was actually very helpful. Better quality than I expected too. Still not perfect though. I'm certain I could tighten that up a bit more with a still better rest.

5 at 100.

 

[nick338]

It's not a bench gun. Center the group and use the rifle the way it was intended.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

“Pee on it”

- R.Kelly

 

[Tiribulus]

“Pee on it”

- R.Kelly

It seems I am not hip or groovy enough to recognize this reference

 

[redneckbmxer24]

It seems I am not hip or groovy enough to recognize this reference

In a nutshell he’s a rapper who likes peeing on things and him and Bear Grylls could have been an excellent couple with their love of giving and receiving piss. And a chinese bushnell is a more reliable target for your discharge when there isn’t snow on the ground to write your name in than it is a sighting device.

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Tiribulus]

Thanks. I pay zero attention to these people and this optic was actually made in South Korea.

 

[Tiribulus]

I wanna thank you guys who helped me out here. I came to this site because I knew there would be folks who know what it is

I also know my piddly vanilla Aero build is not too impressive to precision shooters, but it's what I could afford , it shoots great (to me anyway) and it's my pride and joy among earthly possessions. Such as they are..

I very much appreciate your guys help and attention.

 

[Tiribulus]

Ok, now you guys can beat me up. I finally got the parts with the holiday sales for another build. A budget build.

I also needed another optic so I got a Swampfox (covers head) Arrowhead 1-8, put it on my Aero build and put the Bushnell on the new one. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get them both sighted in.

All that aside for a second, I haven't been able to find a definitive answer to this question:

What is this on the bottom of these LPVOs?

My guess is that it has something to do with sealing up the internal environment of the piece, but I have certainly guessed wrong before.
Thanks.

 

[B y r o n]

Regardless, it's nothing that the end user can adjust or should mess with in any way. Why not worry about something that will actually benefit you?