If you can see the target from the firing line in the picture, you're too close 
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In the AI picture thread, we shoot like we piss...
.In the AI picture thread, we shoot like we piss...
F*****ck you Shoresyyyyy...If you can see the target from the firing line in the picture, you're too close
In the AI picture thread, we shoot like we piss...
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Give your balls a tug!
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Sure it looks cool…but it’s owner is a useless fuck who acts like it’s day one at a match
#AlwaysLookCoolEvenIfYoureATool
#TacClassHero
#IHGRewards
that is a 19lbs rifle right there.
We have very similar setups at the moment. I love the easy re-zeroing of the G3R now that I'm switching barrels back and forth, but it still feel like it doesn't offer much "soul" to the overall package.
I'm also not about to drop another $4K into mine to try to find that soul either. Way too many other projects and this scope (so far) is working perfectly.
You need the circles in your life
But not those compromising mounts.
Seriously how TF did they think a flat on flat raptar rail relying on those 2 little screws would retain zero
That it is. Soon to be a shorty so like maybe 17# this Christmas lol
I mean you might if you put the NF QC sticker and TT throw lever on it. Just saying…
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I like the easy zero procedure; i have the newest one so the turrets feel really good. It is heavy as hell and whichever way i set it up rifle does not feel level. It is 19# rifle with a bipod and no weights.
Glass is great, it breaks through mirage great. I set it up to my eye but everytime i get behind the scope it does not feel natural like it did with my Leupolds and Nightforces. Shame it has better glass than 7-35 atacr and certainly better than mk5.
Don’t feel bad, I tried two different ones in a row only to realize I’m happier behind an ATACR 7-35 and S&B 6-36. Tried the FCO 5-27 also and it just wasn’t for me either. The one I trust the most out of all of em is the ATACR.
the TT I got behind briefly I felt the same. Something about the edges felt almost artificial and hardly any scope outline. I was constantly distracted. The ZCO I felt similar but not nearly as bad but with how tempermental the parallax was had me stay with my ATACR/S&Bs.
Started a new thread on this, but I could use some help regarding barrel clamp torque specs. So, asking you fellow AI nerds to help me out: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...lternative-barrel-clamp-torque-specs.7230986/
I’ve owned the 735ATACR, 527ZCO, and (now) 735TT. The ZCO was absolutely a pain in the dick with the parallax, which I hated dicking with at matches (not a big deal but annoying coming from an ATACR where I set it once and don’t have to fuck with it unless I was jumping to a farther tgt on a stage).
I’m liking the TT and I’m abusing it more and more at matches and in the truck off-roading. So far it’s holding up well. Plan was if I didn’t like it to jump to the SB636 and if I didn’t like that I’d go back to the 735ATACR
That said…
Give me the ATACR 735 w/ the TT’s toolless zero turrets and the MPCT2X reticle. Fuckin money winning combo right there.
Right? I’d take sb or nf detents over these. On windage I am really struggling to dial one click. Several times today I’ve tried to dial one click and put two or three on. Do they loosen up?
ETA the toolless zero feature is better than I expected. Love it
ETA the toolless zero feature is better than I expected. Love it
Any of you guys happen to have the screw/washer dims for an AXSA quickloc screw? seems like mine worked its way out in shipping…not in the box either
Call Mike high they’ll take care of you
No way it should have worked its way out. Torqued to factory spec it be impossible. Is this a new rifle?
Not a new rifle. Came back from AINA after service, and before everyone panics, it was user error and I was taken care of. I sent them the bare action after removing my barrel so I probably forgot to tape it down, left it loose and it worked its way out on its way there.
Called mile high and the gentleman I spoke to said it’s impossible to remove that screw without having the rifle completely broken down and I’d be risking cracking the frame…………I’ll try again tomorrow, maybe.
Huh? You can remove the screw if you got the action out. Did you unbond it? The AXSA and AT would trap the screw between the stock side and action. As would the ATX but that isn’t bonded
It’s an AXSA… ok maybe he had a point now that I’m looking at it again. They may have debonded it and rebonded it and left the screw out during the service. I sent AI an email, I’ll wait to hear from them
I should clarify a bit
I think I can take the screw out of my AT with skins on. If not it’s just a couple screws for the skins. I don’t recall what my AXMC was like. But my ATX was definitely not coming out without removing the chassis
Is the AXSA quickloc able to back all the way out without running into the chassis?
I could see it sitting between the chassis and action, with the head being too big to be fully removed by hitting the chassis. Don’t have a screw to measure or check, lol.
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I don’t have an AXSA but I’m sure someone will chime in. Can you access the washer area under the quickloc screw? I haven’t removed the quickloc screw on my AT to check
I’m assuming it falls between the bedded chassis and action which would be a pita to get back in
My AT without its skins
Yeah that area where the washer would go is open. I just don’t know if the screw head is supposed to be too big to fully back out or not. Sounds like it should be.
I ordered an atacr coming in tomorrow. I always end up with a nf should have known better
It isn't... You can completely remove the quick lock screw on the axsa and axmc. To @Mr. F point above they only say don't remove it as it could be lost in the field...also it's possible if you are not careful to lose the washer down under the front part of the action where it pinches together to hold the barrel. There is no bedding there and your chances of getting that washer out without debonding are slim to none.
Wtf is wrong with you lol....
So TT reticle and knobs suck
ZCO lenses shatter
I guess we’re back to NF?
If I want the best in Japanese glass I will run vortex gen 3 razors
Oh my
Throw that baby right on top a Savage 10 in 6.5 that drops every piece of brass in the chamber….
The one thing I learned with vortex….
Never throw the box out
So TT reticle and knobs suck
ZCO lenses shatter
I guess we’re back to NF?
Allegedly the correct answer is Arken Arken Arken
I hear the new 7-35 is dominating every alpha optic out there
Much like the 5-25 did. Until it didn’t
It always amazes me how an optic with zero track record that is hardly available can cause such a argument over how great it is
People have finally came full circle. Ive had my trusty NFs the whole timeSo TT reticle and knobs suck
ZCO lenses shatter
I guess we’re back to NF?
If they didn't pay 35 different YouTube shills to promote it, we'd probably never have heard about Arken other than in passing conversation.
Literally 75% of the 'optics reviewers' have a link with a discount code.
I own the EP5 and for a rimfire optic it’s been great. But every optic in the bright sunlight looks decent. Next to a ZCO and NF which I also own it’s not a $500, $3500 optic killer. Its a decent $500 optic compared to other $500 optics
I have already replaced this screw without removing the stock, it’s a standard metric one ,take just care to use or order a class 12-9.
Bunch of guys at the 1000yrd deck had arken a few weeks ago. Kept telling me how great they were until they couldn't see their misses, hits or track right. Had to break out my spotter to tell them how much they were sucking.
