I can only guess what it must be like to have beautiful scenery and wide open spaces like this to shoot.
Thank god for the quick adjustable stock shooting on a downslope like that would have been impossible without it.
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PREORDER THE AX HAMMER RAIL HR1 NOW! SHIPPING 9/25
Upgraded the glass on my AXMC. I loved the 5-25x56 PM II, but I didn’t love the low-end tunneling, or the factory supplied road rash. I had a Limited Edition model that had escaped Germany with very crudely demilled markings on the objective bell. After owning the scope for about a year, a member of my team attended the NRA convention in Indianapolis and approached a S&B employee at their booth. He showed her a picture of my scope, and she called me to immediately start the process to replace it. She even let me upgrade to the 3-27x56, after discussing my optical requirements with her.
I bought a Schmidt Bender the first time, because I knew they were great scopes. Any future S&B’s I buy will be equally because of their awesome customer service.
I bought a Schmidt Bender the first time, because I knew they were great scopes. Any future S&B’s I buy will be equally because of their awesome customer service.
Looks like Sunnyvale
I zeroed mine there too not long as ago.
Yup. Where do you like to shoot nearby to stretch out the distance?
Nothing nearby.
Signup for practice or match at Sacramento, pay a premium to go to Quail Valley, or drive long time to San Luis Obispo, or wait for October to go to BLM.
The shade of green used in the AIAT and AICS skins varies by batch. My '14 AT is a darker green then the skins made more recently.
The barrel stage at last weekend’s WI club series match. 2 shots from 5 different empty barrels. Hoping I have the new chassis in hand and installed for the finale next month!
Kinda gauging to see how many would be interested. I am still waiting to hear back to see how many would need to be produced and at what price. Who all would be interested in the AW mag baseplate?
Edit: I do not know if this violates any rules. If it does I have no issues taking the post down.
Edit: I do not know if this violates any rules. If it does I have no issues taking the post down.
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Bumper plate by design, but you could cut out the bottom of the AW to increase capacity I assume.
Pretty sure any AW/AX mag would require the bottom to be completely cut out, and an extension bolted or welded on. I don't think the bumpers shown above have the necessary height to fit +2 more rounds in it if the bottom was cut.
A SH user has gotten a +2 or +4 extension to work, I can't remember who but there was a picture of a mag like that in his AT-MPA. I heard quite a few months ago that an aftermarket AW mag with a +2 option was in the works, but haven't seen anything formal.
That being said, those bumpers are cool, but they don't really do anything other than give you a larger area to grab onto.
Something additional to grab onto to get them out of a mag pouch
I owned one of the ones for AICS and once the baseplate was removed it simply slid over the wings on either side and secured with 6 set screws, 3 on either side.
I am assuming, but I think it would work the same way on the AW, although with smaller wings. No need to cut off the baseplate as the baseplate wings are how it would attach.
If you were going to extend the capacity you would have to cut out the middle of the baseplate and leave the wings.
You really wouldn’t need that much more capacity as you can already fit x11 6.5CM in an AW comfortably.
Yes, I was commenting on the base being cut out only for a +2 extension on AW/AX mags since they're welded on. The bumper as-shown would not need the bottom cut out to function just as a bumper.
I think you'd need at least a 1/2" of extra room to get that 12th round in. Does the bumper have a pocket machined in it to allow this? I've never seen one in person.
Out with my 14 AT. It was supplied as a 6.5X47 and is currently wearing a Krieger 6.5X47. I bought as a sleeper having not been used until this year. I loaded 130gr ELD-M Over 37.5gr N150. Average 2820fps so moderate. Primers were popping all over until I swapped to my pals small firing pin bolt. It slotted straight in and shot amazingly. Suffice to say I think it’s shit AI have now swapped to small firing pin. There is a couple of thousand between mine and my mates rifles. Why can’t AI just swap bolt heads instead of insisting on full
Bolt swaps.
Bolt swaps.
Attachments
Excuse me if I am wrong, but to my knowledge it is not just the firing pin. The Bolt face hole is also different, which is why the old ones had to be bushed. You can either buy a new bolt body or have the old one bushes by a reputable gunsmith.
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The bolt head is held in place by two roll pins, pop these out and replace the bolt head and firing pin and job done.
I would look into getting your bolt bushed rather than swapping bolts. LRI does great work in the US, but no idea who does it across the pond. I'm sure if you look around a bit there is someone who can take care of you for a fraction of the cost of a full bolt.
You are confusing parts. It has nothing to do with the bolt face. It has to do with the firing pin and firing pin hole
I have a guy here who can do it. It frustrates the hell out of me that we should have to do it though.
My argument is my rifle was supplied with the 6.5 X47 barrel and the rifle isn’t fit for purpose. The bolt should be rectified by AI. It wouldn’t cost them much or at least they could heavily subsidise it.
I’m in two minds just to have the 6.5X47 chamber run through with a 6.5 creedmoor reamer and run large primer brass. Although I love the low recoil and apparent inherent accuracy of the 47.
... Or you could just sell the awful rifle made by an evil company that put on a barrel that doesn't work as you expected
???
I could couldn’t I. But seeing as the evil company have identified there was an issue, and rectified it on current models then I will pursue a resolution that doesn’t involve selling an otherwise excellent rifle.
@blbennett1288 Yes, the hole diamter on the bolt face has to match. Can't use a small firing pin when the bolt face hole diameter is for the large firing pin. That why guys had to modify the bolt face as well. Or why AI is selling it as a complete bolt assembly.
@Scotch_egg I believe the bolt face is also expoxied to the bolt. It's not just held it in by the pins...
.. Good thing a bought a bunch of those "Zero" baseplates for my AW/ AX mags that Core (Now Altus) sold.
@Scotch_egg I believe the bolt face is also expoxied to the bolt. It's not just held it in by the pins...
.. Good thing a bought a bunch of those "Zero" baseplates for my AW/ AX mags that Core (Now Altus) sold.
Yeah, I bought a couple and they have long since passed. Kinda wishing I kept them now. Seems like it’ll be a bigger PITA to get them re-produced than it is worth unfortunately.
I’m not sure that it is expoxied in place, I will take a look now. But I’ll not be taking the roll pins out to make sure. That will be left up to my gunsmith.
They are a slight press-fit, along with the roll pin retension.
Not 100 percent, but I don‘t believe the bolt head is removed in a bushing operation by most smiths.
Not 100 percent, but I don‘t believe the bolt head is removed in a bushing operation by most smiths.
@trophyhunter - are AI bolt heads epoxied to the bolt body or can they be removed via just the roll pins?
Correct, it has an epoxy for snug fit and held by 3 rollpins
All that bush the bolt will remove the bolt head as it’s easier to true up and do the procedure.
You don’t want to just swap a small firing pin in a large firing pin bolt body, it’ll create excess gap around the hole causing even more issues.
Swap to small pin face or have the large bushed.
Well, I wanted to get started on taking screws off the AT’s action rail, to replace my low height mount with a NV compatible high one. 3 screws came out no problem. The 4th won’t budge and now I’ve got a rounded screw head. I should have known they cranked it down at the factory because my brand new set of metric Allen’s fit loose on that bolt. Do you guys think setting my Allen key in the hole with a little JB weld, and then hit it with a torch before loosening would work?
Do you have a small, sharp center punch? If I’m remembering right the the screws are flat heads. If not this might not work.
Anyhoo, take a sharp center punch and on the top flat portion of the screw next to the hex socket put a deep center punch mark in the screw. Then put the center punch in the mark you just made. Lay it over pointing counter clockwise. Now use tap the punch.
You’ll basically be using mark you made as a drive point to break the screw loose.
I hope this makes sense. Be careful it’s easy to mark things up but you’d be amazed what you can get loose using this technique.
This is the 1913 rail that the scope rings sit on. They’re definitely metric Allen screw heads.
So I've decided to buy myself an AT for my 21st, and I'm looking into some options for the rest of the setup(any suggestions would be appreciated). The biggest issue is the optic/mount, at this point I'm set on the S&B PMii 5-25x56 and a spuhr QD mount.
But I'm getting mixed messages, does the AT have an inclined rail or not, there's a YouTube video from shot show that says it does, and a website that says it doesn't, also while I'm at it what is the most incline you can have on a spuhr (preferably QD) before a S&B PMii 5-25x56 won't give a decent zero at 100m.
Thanks in advance.
But I'm getting mixed messages, does the AT have an inclined rail or not, there's a YouTube video from shot show that says it does, and a website that says it doesn't, also while I'm at it what is the most incline you can have on a spuhr (preferably QD) before a S&B PMii 5-25x56 won't give a decent zero at 100m.
Thanks in advance.
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From what I'm aware of, I though all AT's came with a 20 MOA rail. I'd double check with Mile High or Euro Optic on it. Mine came with a 20 MOA rail.
With how repeatable Spuhr standard mounts are, I wouldn't spend the money QD and spend it on a good torque driver. The PMII is a fantastic optic, so is the NF ATACR, and the Kahles K624I. At that level you're splitting hairs on the optic, and it comes down to preferred reticle, and eye box size.
I'm not sure about how much MOA you can stack, but I know from the Kahles, I could go with 20 MOA on the rail, and 20 on the mount if I had to. But honestly unless you're shooting a super wild cat cartridge out passed 1600 yards, it's kind of silly to have that much adjustment on a short action rifle. 20MOA base usually gives plenty of adjustment on most high end scopes. I'm around 9 mils at 1200 yards on a 6.5 Creedmoor, and that's not even on the second revolution. I still have another 5 mils before I'm bottomed out on my scope.
With how repeatable Spuhr standard mounts are, I wouldn't spend the money QD and spend it on a good torque driver. The PMII is a fantastic optic, so is the NF ATACR, and the Kahles K624I. At that level you're splitting hairs on the optic, and it comes down to preferred reticle, and eye box size.
I'm not sure about how much MOA you can stack, but I know from the Kahles, I could go with 20 MOA on the rail, and 20 on the mount if I had to. But honestly unless you're shooting a super wild cat cartridge out passed 1600 yards, it's kind of silly to have that much adjustment on a short action rifle. 20MOA base usually gives plenty of adjustment on most high end scopes. I'm around 9 mils at 1200 yards on a 6.5 Creedmoor, and that's not even on the second revolution. I still have another 5 mils before I'm bottomed out on my scope.
