This is the 1913 rail that the scope rings sit on. They’re definitely metric Allen screw heads.
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SubscribeI've seen them in both low and high. 20-40 moa total is what most use and is up to preference. I have 40 moa on two NF (had two spuhrs with 20 moa laying around) total on may AT and AX no issues here with 100 yd zero. Scope you can't go wrong with either. All about preference.So I've decided to buy myself an AT for my 21st, and I'm looking into some options for the rest of the setup(any suggestions would be appreciated). The biggest issue is the optic/mount, at this point I'm set on the S&B PMii 5-25x56 and a spuhr QD mount.
But I'm getting mixed messages, does the AT have an inclined rail or not, there's a YouTube video from shot show that says it does, and a website that says it doesn't, also while I'm at it what is the most incline you can have on a spuhr (preferably QD) before a S&B PMii 5-25x56 won't give a decent zero at 100m.
Thanks in advance.
I think I'll go with the 0MOA Spuhr, but I'm going with the folder because of the thumbhole cool factor, and the one that I've held fit me really well, thanks for the input.I've seen them in both low and high. 20-40 moa total is what most use and is up to preference. I have 40 moa on two NF (had two spuhrs with 20 moa laying around) total on may AT and AX no issues here with 100 yd zero. Scope you can't go wrong with either. All about preference.
My 2 cents if you are going the AT route get the fixed stock version and buy the AX stock for it. You'll save a couple 100's on the rifle. The AX stock is 100% worth it. But again it's up to preference. Whatever you get you'll enjoy the AT.
I'll likely only be shooting 6.5 Creedmoor and 308 (maybe one of the 6mms too), so no funky wildcats, but having more would just open up a few more options and won't be a hindrance later on.From what I'm aware of, I though all AT's came with a 20 MOA rail. I'd double check with Mile High or Euro Optic on it. Mine came with a 20 MOA rail.
With how repeatable Spuhr standard mounts are, I wouldn't spend the money QD and spend it on a good torque driver. The PMII is a fantastic optic, so is the NF ATACR, and the Kahles K624I. At that level you're splitting hairs on the optic, and it comes down to preferred reticle, and eye box size.
I'm not sure about how much MOA you can stack, but I know from the Kahles, I could go with 20 MOA on the rail, and 20 on the mount if I had to. But honestly unless you're shooting a super wild cat cartridge out passed 1600 yards, it's kind of silly to have that much adjustment on a short action rifle. 20MOA base usually gives plenty of adjustment on most high end scopes. I'm around 9 mils at 1200 yards on a 6.5 Creedmoor, and that's not even on the second revolution. I still have another 5 mils before I'm bottomed out on my scope.
I think I'll go with the 0MOA Spuhr, but I'm going with the folder because of the thumbhole cool factor, and the one that I've held fit me really well, thanks for the input.
The main reason for looking at a QD is that I'll cut some foam for a hardcase and having a QD scope means that there is minute wasted spaceYeah, I was going to say forego the AX stock and get the thumbholes.
I would also recommend going with a standard Spuhr and not the QD.
I run 20moa rail and 20moa mount and have 25 mils + of usable elevation
The main reason for looking at a QD is that I'll cut some foam for a hardcase and having a QD scope means that there is minute wasted space
That too is an optionI’d get a bigger case so you can leave your scope attached
Well, I wanted to get started on taking screws off the AT’s action rail, to replace my low height mount with a NV compatible high one. 3 screws came out no problem. The 4th won’t budge and now I’ve got a rounded screw head. I should have known they cranked it down at the factory because my brand new set of metric Allen’s fit loose on that bolt. Do you guys think setting my Allen key in the hole with a little JB weld, and then hit it with a torch before loosening would work?
Anyone running a MK5 5-25 on an AX? Looking for mount options.
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left is my AX mag that came with my rifle and right is an AW mag i picked up 2nd hand to work with it. Every other genuine AI mag I have ever seen has the AI logo stamped on the bottom. Did another company also make AW mags aftermarket? Cheers
Man I wish someone would import these into the US! I want a 300 win mag bad! Beautiful rifle!!New rifle finally received today...
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Do you mind me asking, what date code is stamped before the serial number on the action?
Hi Todd yes it’s 14Do you mind me asking, what date code is stamped before the serial number on the action?
Thanks,
Todd
I'm also curious what/if guys are running Mag spacers and what brand?Looking for some input from anyone running a AI AT/AX in 6 Dasher. I'm considering it as my next PRS round, like a lot of folks. I wanted to get some feedback from AI owners specifically about their experience with 110 SMK's in a AI Dasher (or 115's). Mainly recommendations on smiths and barrels/reamers you used. Thanks everyone.
I'm also curious what/if guys are running Mag spacers and what brand?
I've seen them, any first hand experience with them and 6 Dasher or BRA?
Thanks man. I'm going to try them after my 6cm is toasted.I use them for 6BR and they work well. No experience with 6 dasher.
I've seen them, any first hand experience with them and 6 Dasher or BRA?
New rifle finally received today...
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Super Rifle and excellent book.
Thanks for your reply this is eactly the conversation I wanted to hear about, you're not the only one I've heard negatives from.... Then I read about guys that have zero issues and it makes this soooo tempting!Damn, guess a buddy and I had s* luck with them. Jammed after the 7th round every time we tried like a good number of them. On 3 AX's. Even sent them back to HRD and they had ran to the same problem. They said I should put more lube on the bolt to help out,.... yeah, that's a no from me. Dumped the BR and Dasher cause of it. Back to the 6x47L.
Had one guy said to modify the back lugs cause that's where it was catching, forcing the rounds to slowly move forward until it was nose diving. Again, that's a big F*ing no from me.
I've seen guys buy stuff to run in an AI only to see them sell their BR variant not long after. Maybe they didn't have luck either lol
Cool, accurate and consistent calibers, but I can get great numbers with the x47L too.
If it runs on your rifle, good on you. Run it....
Mind I ask what length freebore you were running ?Damn, guess a buddy and I had s* luck with them. Jammed after the 7th round every time we tried like a good number of them. On 3 AX's. Even sent them back to HRD and they had ran to the same problem. They said I should put more lube on the bolt to help out,.... yeah, that's a no from me. Dumped the BR and Dasher cause of it. Back to the 6x47L.
Had one guy said to modify the back lugs cause that's where it was catching, forcing the rounds to slowly move forward until it was nose diving. Again, that's a big F*ing no from me.
I've seen guys buy stuff to run in an AI only to see them sell their BR variant not long after. Maybe they didn't have luck either lol
Cool, accurate and consistent calibers, but I can get great numbers with the x47L too.
If it runs on your rifle, good on you. Run it....
Mind I ask what length freebore you were running ?
Reason I ask is I had issues with PVA spacers when I was shorter then .104” fb in my dasher, it was a weird reamer, something like .045” it was weird. Then I went to my regular reamer with .125” and jumped into the HRD after meeting Dan at a match in Dallas, it never skipped a beat. Later I found out my first reamer was and since then even my BRA at .110” has been great
This was in my AX, then i sold a dasher barrel to a buddy for his AT and his worked great as well.
Dasher was .104" and BR was .113"
Yeah, I have PVA spacers but never used them since the HRD kits came out at the time
oh well, I've always got good numbers with the 6x47l, so sticking with that as I know it'll feed regardless.