Bighorn Origin Build Thread



Depending upon what you ordered and when the order was placed, Zermatt is at 14-22 weeks from order to delivery.

I emailed Ray, (Zermatt), two weeks ago to inquire about a LA Origin purchased through Front Range Precision and that is what he quoted me. Owen(FRP) must have placed his order for a variety of different Zermatt actions several months ago as he is expected to receive some actions from Zermatt within the next couple weeks.

That said, I received a final payment email from him today on the LA Origin, so I expect to have it in hand soon.

Regards,
TM6
 
Depending upon what you ordered and when the order was placed, Zermatt is at 14-22 weeks from order to delivery.

I emailed Ray, (Zermatt), two weeks ago to inquire about a LA Origin purchased through Front Range Precision and that is what he quoted me. Owen(FRP) must have placed his order for a variety of different Zermatt actions several months ago as he is expected to receive some actions from Zermatt within the next couple weeks.

That said, I received a final payment email from him today on the LA Origin, so I expect to have it in hand soon.

Regards,
TM6
I must’ve decided to buy a SA at the right time. I messaged him with a couple of questions and then put a deposit down on one January 24th. Final payment was on Feb 5th and received the action on the 10th. I am very happy with it and the super fast turn around from @Front Range Precision
 
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This one has changed a lot of times simply due to 2 actions, 6 chassis/stocks, 8 barrels and probably 5 different scopes that are all a part of a never ending truffle shuffle...but this one is pretty fun.
Only forseeable change is that I'm considering a VUDU 5-25x with an H59 for the glass. The proximity to the MUNSTER EFR up front means I can't take advantage of the Tenebrex caps.

Zermatt TL3 18" 22 Creed with a 7 twist
Right now I'm testing 69 TGKs for predators, but will likely consider 80-90gr bullets later on.
Trigger Tech Diamond and the Oneill Ops 224 VAPR suppressor for this one and pretty much everything else should be outlined in the picture.

View attachment 7808452
Great looking build man, how are you liking the Gen III? Also is that a straight bolt handle for the Origin? Admittedly every time I handle an origin I have an urging want to start a new build. Love that little action so much for the money.
 
+1 for @Front Range Precision. Just got my Origin in last week. Owen was very helpful and awesome to deal with, I'd recommend them to anyone looking to buy!

+2 for FRP-Owen is a straight shooter. Good service and decent pricing. My Origin LA should be in hand by next week. Course the rest of my build will have to wait a bit for the other components but hope to have it complete by summer.

TM6
 
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Let me preface by saying that I was never a Vortex fan, going all the way back to the Gen1 and even the PST and Viper lines. Didn't like the scopes at all, and liked the reticles even less.
Grabbed a used StrikeEagle 5-25 for my RimFire system a little over a year ago ONLY because the EBR-7C seemed like a fairly comparable option to my beloved H59. Scope was OK for a rimfire system, but I really liked the EBR-7C (much better than any of their other previous offerings.)

Fast forward to January 2022. I'm looking through my inventory and decided I wanted to sell an older Leupold MK6 3-18x with the H58 and replace it with something similar like a MK5 3-18x with a CCH or H59. Ended up seeing all the GEN2 Razors that people are offloading that was listed $100 over what I sold the MK6 and decided to give it a try...so for the first time, I had a Gen 2 Razor EBR-7C on the way.

Couple days later I'm digging through my reloading paperwork and found a certificate I snagged off a prize table at least a few years ago, for 30% off Vortex MAP through EuroOptic (expiring Feb 2022)...so, I pulled the trigger.

Both showed up within a day or two of each and with no previous experience with either one, I feel like I had pretty fair chance to do a true apples to apples comparison.
The Gen 2 has much more tactile clicks, I was extremely disappointed with the Gen 3. I think Vortex had the time and opportunity to offer much better. Oddly enough, on the Gen2...the elevation turret clicks were more tactile than the windage...and the windage of the Gen 2 was similar to both from the Gen3.
The zero system is good, but I feel like they missed their chance to offer a tool-less system. One screw vs 3 screws makes no difference when you still need a tool to make the adjustments. Glass is good, but I haven't compared them side by side in the field yet. They optics are virtually identical in dimensions, but the ocular is ever so slightly different to the point that a Tenebrex cover for the Gen 2 doesn't fit well enough to use. I wish the ocular had a lock ring, but it's not a deal breaker. Overall it's a nice choice for the 6-36 range...but IMO, I probably wouldn't have paid full retail for it. If I didn't have a 30% off coupon, I would have waited a few years and tried to grab a used one for around the $2000-$2200 I actually paid for mine.
Yeah the turrets I’m hoping are a fixable issue. Don’t like mine either as you said prefer our Gen II in that regard. The glass for me is a huge upgrade. Considering the patent and revision of the turret makes me wonder if they are planning on a tooless zero. I really like EBR7D.

I don’t wanna derail too much just wanted to see what you thought. Do let me know if you find those caps cause I want some tenebraex fde covers for it.
 
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Origin
Proof TL3 6Dasher with HLR Lug
Henderson HRP
Razor Gen3
ARC MBrace Mount
Hawkins M5 DBM
Area419 Hellfire Match
22.8 pounds no mag/bipod
 

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I am thinking about building one in .280 AI. My current plan is to use a prefit barrel from Criterion. I plan to use AI mags. The question I have is will I have any problems getting the barrel nut to fit into most of the chassis or stocks available?
 
I am thinking about building one in .280 AI. My current plan is to use a prefit barrel from Criterion. I plan to use AI mags. The question I have is will I have any problems getting the barrel nut to fit into most of the chassis or stocks available?





Most chassis no. I had to make a little room in a McMillan once but it wasn’t a big deal.
 
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I know a few people have used Keystone Accuracy for their actions, has anyone done their barreled action with the Green Mountain barrel? Looking to get a review on how you like it, and whether the Kreiger barrel is worth the $200 upcharge. I've seen people getting good/great results with the GM, but wanted to verify before I launched the order.
 
I know a few people have used Keystone Accuracy for their actions, has anyone done their barreled action with the Green Mountain barrel? Looking to get a review on how you like it, and whether the Kreiger barrel is worth the $200 upcharge. I've seen people getting good/great results with the GM, but wanted to verify before I launched the order.
I have 2, one valkyrie and one 6.5 CM. Both are absolute hammers. The Valk was hard to find a load for but now that I have it, it's my most accurate barrel. The 6.5 took no work at all. Plug and play 1/4" gun. I'm playing with some different bullets and powder now but I can always fall back on hornady 140's and h4350 when I can find it.

I wouldn't hesitate. To go with a GM blank. John is pretty short and almost rude, but the price is right and he makes a great barrel.
 
I have 2, one valkyrie and one 6.5 CM. Both are absolute hammers. The Valk was hard to find a load for but now that I have it, it's my most accurate barrel. The 6.5 took no work at all. Plug and play 1/4" gun. I'm playing with some different bullets and powder now but I can always fall back on hornady 140's and h4350 when I can find it.

I wouldn't hesitate. To go with a GM blank. John is pretty short and almost rude, but the price is right and he makes a great barrel.
Awesome, just the vote of confidence I was looking for, thanks.
 
I seem to remember that they made the switch some time around the 2k mark. I'm not really sure though, there were a few updates between then though. Is your sear have a bronze/case hardened look? Is there any cock on close?
It's one I'm looking at buying, I couldn't get specific on it. Looks like an early model.
 
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Got to test mine out and didn’t blow my fingers off tonight so that’s a bonus. Proof 6creed. Will have to sight in next weekend when I’m not freezing my balls off. First venture into bolt actions so we’ll see how I like in a few months
 
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Here is mine. Also I agree with triggertech special two stage and northland shooters.
Criterion 24” 308 w/ 118LR chamber
Macmillan A5 and triad stock pack
SOL bottom and 419 extensions on AI mags.
Going to paint the stock but no solid idea what yet.
 

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Order is in for a Manners LRH stock. After playing with my Tikka single stage w/ a YoDave spring, and my Sig Cross with its 2-stage, I want to go back to a single stage trigger. This is a hunting rifle and I find it easier to run a single stage when it's cold and I'm wearing gloves. The Cross has a pretty nice 2-stage in it but it isn't my thing.

I'll be ordering a 300WSM barrel, and a bolt & barrel for either .223Rem or 6CM for a fun/range gun. I'm leaning towards a heavy palma 26" .223 that should be easy for new shooters to learn on with no recoil, on an otherwise fairly light gun.
 
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Order is in for a Manners LRH stock. After playing with my Tikka single stage w/ a YoDave spring, and my Sig Cross with its 2-stage, I want to go back to a single stage trigger. This is a hunting rifle and I find it easier to run a single stage when it's cold and I'm wearing gloves. The Cross has a pretty nice 2-stage in it but it isn't my thing.

I'll be ordering a 300WSM barrel, and a bolt & barrel for either .223Rem or 6CM for a fun/range gun. I'm leaning towards a heavy palma 26" .223 that should be easy for new shooters to learn on with no recoil, on an otherwise fairly light gun.
Sounds good I only recommend triggertech because the origin is timed very well for that trigger
 
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3512D2D3-409A-458B-AD0B-4C23A532F2DB.jpeg


Origin SA
Proof Research - carbon fiber -20” 6.5 CM
Sandman S
Manners LRH - elite tac back in black
M5 mini chassis- Hawkins M5 dbm
Triggertech - special
Full length Arca rail
Vortex Razor Gen 2 - 4.5-27x56 - for now
(Going to swap to a lighter more compact scope eventually - Leupold Mark 5HD 3.6-18)

Rifle without this scope combo and no suppressor weighs 8 lbs
10EDD8B4-3BDF-4F7F-9418-C108DEF31E47.jpeg
 
View attachment 7841159

Origin SA
Proof Research - carbon fiber -20” 6.5 CM
Sandman S
Manners LRH - elite tac back in black
M5 mini chassis- Hawkins M5 dbm
Triggertech - special
Full length Arca rail
Vortex Razor Gen 2 - 4.5-27x56 - for now
(Going to swap to a lighter more compact scope eventually - Leupold Mark 5HD 3.6-18)

Rifle without this scope combo and no suppressor weighs 8 lbsView attachment 7841160
What rings are those and what height?
 
In some of the early threads I see people talking about timing the action to the trigger. I understand what they are talking about but what is the process without being able to change trigger hangers?
 
In some of the early threads I see people talking about timing the action to the trigger. I understand what they are talking about but what is the process without being able to change trigger hangers?
This image is of a rem 700 cocking piece but timing it is actually filing away the engagement surface so that it hits the trigger sear a bit later in the bolts forward travel. By causing them to interface later in the bolts forward travel you dont have to physically overcome and compress the firing pin spring yourself during the close before the locking lugs catch.
bench-rest-cocking-piece-push-back-030.jpg


Edit: I found this of two bighorn firing pins and you can see the difference in where their sear engagement surfaces line up. Its not much but its there and it depends mainly on the particular trigger as to where the "sweet spot" is.
If you DO have an old origin with the grayer cocking piece shown on the left first contact zermatt and they will swap it out with the revised version thats sorta copper colored which is shown on the right second.

 
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This image is of a rem 700 cocking piece but timing it is actually filing away the engagement surface so that it hits the trigger sear a bit later in the bolts forward travel. By causing them to interface later in the bolts forward travel you dont have to physically overcome and compress the firing pin spring yourself during the close before the locking lugs catch.
bench-rest-cocking-piece-push-back-030.jpg


Edit: I found this of two bighorn firing pins and you can see the difference in where their sear engagement surfaces line up. Its not much but its there and it depends mainly on the particular trigger as to where the "sweet spot" is.
If you DO have an old origin with the grayer cocking piece shown on the left first contact zermatt and they will swap it out with the revised version thats sorta copper colored which is shown on the right second.


That makes sense, is this something that you hand fit or do they make different cocking pieces that you order?
 
That makes sense, is this something that you hand fit or do they make different cocking pieces that you order?
If you have a standard piece you will hand fit it with a file.
If you have the new version they offer then you shouldnt need to... but if you do you will still hand fit it.
They dont have a bunch of different ones you can order, just the single revised version.
You can send your action and trigger in and they will do it for you for a few bucks.


OR you can measure how much you close on firing and then file that much off of what you have.


Edit: I still have my old style that zermat never sent the return label for sitting here handy-
You will take this measurement of the cocking indicator sticking out the back of the bolt with the handle up and unlocked with your calipers depth gauge.
Then you will take the measurement with the handle down and locked in the action.

Ideally it will be the same dimension so you have a seamless handoff transition from the bolt body holding the firing pin back to the trigger sear holding it back.

The difference between the first and the second measurement are how much cock on close you have, if the second number is smaller than you dont have any cock on close (you have a negative cock on close) and filing it further wont do anything good for you.

You would remove that amount of difference you measured (maybe less .005" just because you dont want to go too far) and then stick it in the action and check its feel and remeasure if you still feed the need to take some off.
image.jpg
 
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A good set of Allen/Hex wrenches, Torx wrenches, barrel vise, action wrench, and torque wrench will handle the majority of bolt action needs.
The only tool specific to the Origin I would suggest is a Zermatt action wrench. Everything else should crossover to any custom action.
Sweet. No funky tools for bolt disassembly?

If I was inclined to do a barrel swap at the range, using barrel nuts, is there a receiver option out there I can toss an action wrench into? If not I'll just weld a nut and a support onto a receiver hitch to hold the action and swap barrels.
 
Sweet. No funky tools for bolt disassembly?

If I was inclined to do a barrel swap at the range, using barrel nuts, is there a receiver option out there I can toss an action wrench into? If not I'll just weld a nut and a support onto a receiver hitch to hold the action and swap barrels.
Usually people would mount the barrel vice to the hitch and wrenches on the action to hold it in place and nut to torque.
 
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