It's a Chassis made in the Uk.
Not sure if he exports.
Not sure if I can post a link within the rules?
It's made by R and F sporting supplies. in the UK.
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CZ 457
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
Not sure if he exports.
Not sure if I can post a link within the rules?
It's made by R and F sporting supplies. in the UK.
Anyone run into eye relief issues on their setups? My 457 in a KRG bravo with a Gen 1 5-20 Vortex Razor on an Area 419 mount has me scrunched way back when I'm shooting from the prone. Even with the scope pushed as far forward in the rings and with the rings set as far forward on the rail as possible.
I plan on replacing this scope anyhow since I just pulled it off my 6.5 for the time, anyone got some suggestions for something shorter or with more forgiving eye relief?
I plan on replacing this scope anyhow since I just pulled it off my 6.5 for the time, anyone got some suggestions for something shorter or with more forgiving eye relief?
Yeah I've got the one or two it came with but I was hoping to avoid doing that because my length of pull is comfortable as is
I did, the issue was resolved be increasing the length of pull and re-doing my scope setup. If you don't want to spend money or see if LOP needs to be adjust - do what I did - used a slip-on shotgun recoil pad just to check before buying additional inserts.
It's normal for prone to need the butt plate moved out ~3/4" or so from a positional setting. Your head is naturally closer to the scope in prone vs positional.
Use an extended scope mount instead of individual rings.
Am not familiar with the Area419 but have a Murphy rail which is extended 1.5", also have the Nightforce cantilever Unimount. This setup works for me using the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 and KRG Bravo chassis.
Amazon product ASIN B08VF4YRF7All the snap cap you could need. $5/100 and they last longer than the competition. Be sure to buy this brand (only) as the Hilman brand has changed design and are no longer suitable.
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Finally got my suppressor ready out and zeroed up using some subs and a friends rimfire can. First shot I heard the click of the firing pin but that was it. Had to ask my two friends if it went off or was a hang fire.
I think I’m going to like this 457.
I think I’m going to like this 457.
Yes, first thing I did as soon as I racked the bolt. It was really horrible. I had a fine stone and it slicked it up beautifully.
I took my new CZ 457 out for the second time today. This is my first long gun and I couldn't be happier.
Clearly I'm the weakest part of this setup, but these are my best and worst groups at 50y and 100y, all with Wolf Match Target.
Clearly I'm the weakest part of this setup, but these are my best and worst groups at 50y and 100y, all with Wolf Match Target.
It’sa great Rifle. Try some SK std plus or rifle match in it if you can get some. Plus you will get better with it as you both get broken in a bit.
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What could go wrong?
Was getting ready for a range trip and commented that my kit, ( Lilja barrel ) was not shooting a well as I was used to ( .5 MOA or better). Before I knew it "they" started to clean the rifle and ran a rod, jag, minus a patch through the barrel. They mentioned it had to be dirty as it was tough to push through the patchless rod and jag. Theoretically it should be fine, the jag and patch together are a lesser diameter then the barrel. I don't have a scope and haven't been able to shoot it. Still worried it damaged the barrel. I will clean it myself ( Boretech rod and jags) on Sunday. Hoping for the best. Thoughts?
regards, pete
Was getting ready for a range trip and commented that my kit, ( Lilja barrel ) was not shooting a well as I was used to ( .5 MOA or better). Before I knew it "they" started to clean the rifle and ran a rod, jag, minus a patch through the barrel. They mentioned it had to be dirty as it was tough to push through the patchless rod and jag. Theoretically it should be fine, the jag and patch together are a lesser diameter then the barrel. I don't have a scope and haven't been able to shoot it. Still worried it damaged the barrel. I will clean it myself ( Boretech rod and jags) on Sunday. Hoping for the best. Thoughts?
regards, pete
You might want to read this article on cleaning 22LR precision barrels and stop using the rod. I would buy a $50 Teslong scope from amazon, it's a cheap tool to work on your $550 barrel and stop guessing why the POI accuracy falls off.. Have fun in keeping the chamber clean. https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/
Seriously? A jag without a patch and its tight in the barrel? Was this done dry without cleaning solution (no patch to hold solvent)?
Who is “ they”?
And why are you letting other people clean Your rifle? I use a .20 caliber rod and jag combo for all my 22s, but I prefer to use a patchworm pull through set up with felt pellets…….hmmm, hold on a sec.
Eh, nevermind, gotta be phishing post and I got suckered. Look forward to hearing about your next cleaning session involving a hi speed drill motor with brass and stainless brushes
Good morning. Yes, a jag with no patch and completely dry. He said it was tight and had to push it through. "they" are a friend just getting into PRS. I previously walked them through cleaning barrel including soaking and brushing chamber. He is new to the process and I had to run an errand while he put gear and kit together for the range. Wasn't as if I was leaving kids behind with a stranger, but yeah, sorta feels that way now. As reference, I use the BoreTech rimfire specific rod and jags and cotton patches with Rimfire Blend clear and C4 carbon cleaner.
regards,
regards,
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Anything is possible but I doubt one treatment of a soft jagg material on a hardened steel barrel with destroy it. That said, the only way to see if there is damage is to reclean it properly and : a) scope the bore and/or b) shoot the rifle. Everything else is just speculation and worry for naught.
Talked myself into a KRG Bravo for the (formerly) At-One a few weeks ago. Still haven't shot it yet. Was supposed to go today, but a freaking headache did me in. Heachache seems to have abated some, so I'm likely to go tomorrow.
Need to figure out an ARCA rail for this rifle. The extra-wide base makes the wobble go down while on barricades. The very nice KRG version has a beveled edge, but that's easy enough to do on a bench grinder.
The nice part about shooting .22 is that you can send a lot of rounds downrange without the cost of my 6.5 Creedmore
M
Need to figure out an ARCA rail for this rifle. The extra-wide base makes the wobble go down while on barricades. The very nice KRG version has a beveled edge, but that's easy enough to do on a bench grinder.
The nice part about shooting .22 is that you can send a lot of rounds downrange without the cost of my 6.5 Creedmore
M
I am thinking the same. Hope to get to the range in a a couple weeks. I will keep the kit the same and use same ammo (SK Rifle Match).
Will post then.
regards,
I have Bravo chassis and was fortunate to find a used KRG Arca rail, The fit is spot on, and well made. Definitely solid and as such, the attachment process is more involved. Other makes may be a simpler install, though I would follow the KRG instruction to ensure it's on there right.
regards,
Quick question for whoever can answer. I picked up a 457 with a 20” heavy barrel but not sure if it’s just the varmint or the mtr? It’s just the barreled action so the stock not being there isn’t helping me ID which one it is…. Help?
I had someone reach out to me with a used KRG rail. Guess what I need to install tomorrow?
Brought some 'homemade with magic markers' KYL targets to the range today. That 1/4" dot was dancing all around my shots. Grr
I figure I'll use the timer on the lane and do an ersatz stage next time. Wanted to make sure I could hit the targets period before I made things harder. Till I got down to that 1/4" dot I was doing all right. In a real match, I had the brilliant thought that if you aimed a bit high, the target would still spin...
M
That 1/4 arm can be a SOB. Of course, that's why they call it Know Your Limits . You can always choose to stop at the 3/4" or 1/2" swinger and save your points. I've been beat several times by those who did when I charged ahead ( beyond my limits)
)
Don't try, don't get.That 1/4 arm can be a SOB. Of course, that's why they call it Know Your Limits . You can always choose to stop at the 3/4" or 1/2" swinger and save your points. I've been beat several times by those who did when I charged ahead ( beyond my limits)
In the matches I've been shooting it's been hit or miss to move. Not sure how I'd game that. I'd basically have to shoot 2 deliberate misses at that 1/4" and restart on the 1/2" target going back up the line.
Shot one KYL that was hit to move. Got stuck at about 3/4" and couldn't hit the thing to save my life. Shot it after the match was over and had zero problems. Grr
M
So I've goon from good to quite poor. White target on left was show with my CZ 457 w/ Lilja barrel and Timney trigger in KRG Bravo chassis. SK rifle Match at 50 yrds. Timid wind, 3-4 mph. Orange target is three weeks later with same set up. I suspected a dirty bore and so got to cleaning. Soaked the carbon ring and brushed it with nylon brush. Ran Rimfire Blend through the barrel. Set the action screws to 45 Lbs. Went out was at range at Markham and got the same results as the Orang target(left it in truck) Two Ranger Officers took turns and got same results. Didn't hold for wind, just straight on target. I am at a bit of a loss at what is going on? Cleaned the bolt, though didn't disassemble it. Cleaned all the usual places. Never been dropped or banged around. I am quite frustrated, and honestly don't know what is going on on and how to correct it.
Looking for advice and suggestions, thanks in advance.
regards,
Looking for advice and suggestions, thanks in advance.
regards,
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Isn't it supposed to be 65 in. Lbs on the action screws and 45 in. Lbs on the tang screw?
There is SO much varied information on the torque value. I was at 65 initial, even split. Dug a around a bit and read 45 was a sweet and correct spot. That's where they're at now. I think I missed the split values recommendation. It would be an easy fix while at the range. I tried 35 and saw no improvement.
regards,
I re-read the instructions, it's 45 for the CZ and the tang (the one that holds the butt stock on) is 45 AFTER the two action screws are tightened.
IMHO, action screw torque won't put your rounds all over the paper like that. Last time I had erratic groups like that, I trouble shot it back the sighting system. Take off everything from the scope rail up and retorque your screws as you reassemble. ( Check the length of your rail mounting screws to assure they aren't bottoming while your at it) If you have another scope, that would be step two.
Good advice from WeeHooker. Action screw torque setting have very little effect on accuracy only vertical shot placement. I would also look at scope and associated parts.
Copied from the FAQ section of the CZ USA website:
Q: “What are the correct torque specs for the 455/457 action screws?”
A: The correct torque specs for wooden stocks is 25 in/lbs, and 35 in/lbs for models like the Varmint Precision Trainer and Chassis.
Q: “What are the correct torque specs for the 455/457 action screws?”
A: The correct torque specs for wooden stocks is 25 in/lbs, and 35 in/lbs for models like the Varmint Precision Trainer and Chassis.
After taking a good look at this......I would go buy some lots of ammo and retest. I've had a lot of CX that was that bad and I checked everything, switched to Eley Match and it was much better. It just could be that barrel and ammo lot don't mix.
Before I remove the scope, rings and base I will shoot a box of each of these. It's the variety on hand so it will do to get a better idea and hopefully eliminate others. If any of these particular type brings the groups back together, I think it maybe ammo related. I's a slow process as I only have one day a month to take a range trip.
regards,
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The 457's are amazing shooters. I have three CZ's and 2 of them are 457's. A premium in 22lr and a Lux in 17 HMR. The other is a 452 UL.
You shouldn’t have a problem at all. If anything, you’ll find that the scope sets higher than your cell rest. The Area 419 rail sets pretty high.
damn autocorrect! I wrote cheek rest.
