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CZ 457
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
I have a 23" Lilja. I have been shooting SK Rifle Match and it shoots well, but after my last range trip it looks like SK Standard+ shoots better. SK rifle match is around 1055fps at the muzzle and SK Standard+ is around 1035fps at the muzzle.
More lot testing is always fun. Would be great from a price point if SK works. Lapua, Eley and RWS are more costly.
Right now in my 457 at 25 yards Center X shoots 1 ragged hole groups but it not as good as RWS R100 or Special Match does at 50 to 200 yards..
I did a official 25 shot Rimfire 50 yard target test and this was the scores
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
It's strange cause with the same lot of Center X shot 247 11x at last months 50 yard match( no flyers just 3 in the 9 ring. Both days had very little to no wind.
Right now in my 457 at 25 yards Center X shoots 1 ragged hole groups but it not as good as RWS R100 or Special Match does at 50 to 200 yards..
I did a official 25 shot Rimfire 50 yard target test and this was the scores
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
It's strange cause with the same lot of Center X shot 247 11x at last months 50 yard match( no flyers just 3 in the 9 ring. Both days had very little to no wind.
Thank you for the info, Lash. Did you have to relieve the stock to inset the t-nuts? I'm wondering if the barrel is close enough to contact the t-nuts?
I first used a 3/4” forstner bit to relieve the stock at each location, then drilled through with the right drill for the body of the t-nut. I didn’t want to take any chances of barrel contact either.
Forstner bits:
And after i get the screw cut to length, i back fill the hole with 5 minute epoxy so that nothing comes loose and humidity cannot get into the wood.
David
Here is a picture. I don’t use T nuts but a washer and Aircraft nut. Same function. Then i sand the barrel channel to round out the eoxy if needed and reseal
David
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I've had my 457 V-MTR since Spring and have found SK+ and SK-RM to shoot very well for 'medium-priced ammo', and the Lapua Center-X was much better. The diff between 0.4-6xx" groups to 0.2-3xx" groups. And I've found that CCI-SV does almost as well as the SK flavors. I got some SK Magazine to use as 'foulers', it's a bit cheaper to throw 10 or so of these first after a cleaning. I'm using an Athlon Argos 8-34x56 FFP, on an Area 419 30* rail and I find the bubble helps tighten groups more than without using it. I've got my Timney trigger down to about 5-6-oz and that helps too.
I’ve used the CCI-SV before too and currently use mostly SK+ for PRS22 matches. But it really depends on the lot# for each of them. Neither is really match grade for groups, though you can occasionally get nice small ones when the planets align and you don’t get a flyer.
I did some lower end group testing today and shot Wolf Match, CCI Standard and and CCI Green Tag. I used an IBS Rimfire 50 yard target.
There are 25 targets so 250 is a perfect score
Wolf Match = 226 3x . One flyer missed the entire circle by 1/4 if an inch
Standard = 237 1x. There were 4 flyers in the 8 ring the rest were in the 10 ring.
CCI Green Tag = 240 4x There 2 in the 8 ring and in the 9 ring.
Previous post results.
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
So for me RWS R-100 is what works best at 50 yards. The Center X disappointed me as it shot waY better in my Vudoo then in the CZ 457 MTR.
When I get the new 22 inch Lilja barrel and get it broke in am going to look more the SK line and see how it shoots. I really what to try LR Match and Biathlon.
There are 25 targets so 250 is a perfect score
Wolf Match = 226 3x . One flyer missed the entire circle by 1/4 if an inch
Standard = 237 1x. There were 4 flyers in the 8 ring the rest were in the 10 ring.
CCI Green Tag = 240 4x There 2 in the 8 ring and in the 9 ring.
Previous post results.
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
So for me RWS R-100 is what works best at 50 yards. The Center X disappointed me as it shot waY better in my Vudoo then in the CZ 457 MTR.
When I get the new 22 inch Lilja barrel and get it broke in am going to look more the SK line and see how it shoots. I really what to try LR Match and Biathlon.
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I assume that you meant 20” barrel. Or are you starting a new super short barrel trend? 
I’m looking at a 457 MTR to replace my VQ summit that I just can’t get to shoot consistently. The MTR stock looks relatively similar to my Centurion I run on my match rifle. Could someone measure the distance from the front of the grip to the face of the trigger for me please? As well as face of trigger to end of butt stock? Thanks!!!
Front of the grip to center of curve of the trigger is 1.375". ( 7/8" from front of the grip to the back of the trigger guard and 1/2" from there to trigger.) LOP is 13.5". Very comfortable rifle to shoot off the bench.
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Here is the CZ 457 MTR with the following mods AREA 419 30 MOA rail and bolt knob, Timney Trigger, Lilja .900 22in barrel. The barrel fit with no clearance issues.
I am working on refinishing my MTR stock. It has beautiful grain that CZ did a good job of hiding. The issue is that i want to remove the recoil pad. I can take out the 2 screws that hold it on. They are T15 screws but the recoil pad doesn’t separate from the stock. I hit it with my rubber mallet. But it didn’t budge. Are they glued on or???
Thanks
David
Thanks
David
From what I've read (haven't taken mine off) it may just be adhering due to 'tacky finish' or there may be a light adhesive. Most folk have just used a thin knife like an OLFA to pry the pad off. Just use caution . . .
I've taken several off for refinish. I'm not sure if it's adhesive or just the stock finish that glues them on but they can be stuck pretty good. I always just give them a few good raps with a rubber mallet. I bet your amazed with your results. I still don't understand why CZ uses that ultramud finish.
Here is the my MTR stock after being stripped with laquer thinner and the sanded and steel wooled, then 1 coat of stain. It looked nothing like this when I started.
David
David
Looks like you got a nice one. It's got a nice mix of color variation, some tiger stripe and interesting grain. That should turn out nice if you take your time. What are you using for finish? I usually use tru oil but have recently had good luck with minwax wipe on poly too.
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David, Nice figuring on the stock. Mine didn't have the 'mud', but I cleaned it a bit anyway. I used hot water and Dawn soap, and did several washes (4-5?) until a white rag came off clean. The OEM stain must have been a bit 'soluble', it lightened a good deal. Then I just gave 4-5 coats of Minwax Paste Floor wax - it's meant to be walked on but I don't plan to go that far 
Turned out pretty good for a 'wash 'n' wax job'. I plan to take off some of the color of the stippling this Winter.
Turned out pretty good for a 'wash 'n' wax job'. I plan to take off some of the color of the stippling this Winter.I have used Minwax Special Walnut for the stain. I now have 2 coats on it of stain on it. Now I will start sealing it with Minwax Polycrylic. It is a water based urethane. I used to use Minwax Polyurethane but since it was mineral spirits based it would disolve some of the stain. The Polycrylic is water based so I don't think I will have that issue. I normally use about 5 to 6 coats that were 400 grit sanded between each coat. the final coat gets 0000 steel wool and then renaissance waxed. The reason I don't use tru oil is that even after it dries our bore solvents will attack it and make it splotchy. It is cold here in NC right now so I can't shoot rimfire so this has been a good time for doing the pillar bedding and refinishing the rifle. Keeps me off the streets
David
Didn’t want to start a new thread so I’ll just ask here.
Been contemplating on getting a new barrel for my MTR. Am looking at the proof CF 18.5” option or maybe a Lilja. In reality my MTR factory barrel shoots great and only has 2k rounds through it and perhaps most importantly it loves cheap Norma Tac 22. What can I really expect from replacing it?
Been contemplating on getting a new barrel for my MTR. Am looking at the proof CF 18.5” option or maybe a Lilja. In reality my MTR factory barrel shoots great and only has 2k rounds through it and perhaps most importantly it loves cheap Norma Tac 22. What can I really expect from replacing it?
You can see my post up the page a bit with my CZ 457 MTR with Lilja 22in .900 barrel.
Here is a picture of the 2 best 5 shot groups I shoot. It's RWS R100 at 50 yards. Here is a target i shot with Eley Match Black box with about 2 mph wind . I can tell you the Lilja is better then stock as the groups have been tighter.
Here is a picture of the 2 best 5 shot groups I shoot. It's RWS R100 at 50 yards. Here is a target i shot with Eley Match Black box with about 2 mph wind . I can tell you the Lilja is better then stock as the groups have been tighter.
Anyone have experience with the EABCO barrel? Looking for an upgrade from my scout barrel but not looking to spend $600.
https://eabco.com/eabco-cz-457-accuracy-barrel-24-stainless/
https://eabco.com/eabco-cz-457-accuracy-barrel-24-stainless/
No experience with this particular barrel ( I didn't even know they made a barrel for the CZ to be truthful.) I did have an EABCO branded bull barrel for a Ruger 10/22 some years back. It shot well but not wowing by any means. I'd be real interested to know how this one shoots as I especialy like the 24" length. FWIW, others to look at in that "mid" price range would be a factory MTR barrel, IBI , Lothar Walther, Pete's P{pillars, or even a used Lilja.
Here is with my CZ 457 MTR with Lilja 22in .900 barrel with RWS R100. Wind was 4 mph coming straight in at 0 degrees with some very minor left to right shifts.
Thanks!! I was a little tricky with the heads up wind today right in the face. Very happy with the barrels performance. The last 2 items to complete the build is chassis and a Herrell's tuner.
I just got my Vudoo 360 week of the 18th...Its in a matrix pro which I was unsure if I'd like it or not after getting and shooting it I really like the chassis...one thing I did not like with the ACC was the twist in the fore end without the internal weights but a great chassis.
Good to know on the ACC. My Vudoo is in the MPA BA which I like but should have gotten the folding stock.
I have a 457 Varmint Precision Chassis model in that same factory chassis. The rifle is VERY adjustable and stable. I've made a few improvements to the Luth-AR buttstock but have to say I like it allot for the general /mostly off the bench shooting I do. Mine also wears a Lilja barrel. This rig will rival my Vudoo when I do my part.
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Just mounted our VMTR Barreled action in the Manners stock (from the VPT MTR) and I absolutely love it.
Parts list:
Parts list:
- CZ 457 Varmint MTR Barreled Action
- McMaster Carr 612 Trigger Spring and Polished Sear (~1.5 lb pull)
- Area 419 30 MOA Rail
- Bushnell Match Pro 6-24x50
- Vortex Pro Series 30mm Medium Rings
- Area 419 Weighted ARCA Rail
- Caldwell Swivel Bipod with Area 419 Harris ARCA Lock Adapter
- Gray Ops CNC Shorty Bag Stop
- Area 419 Bolt Knob
I plan on pulling the new CZ 457 Jaguar apart as only need the action. When I get it I will post in PX the barrel and stock when I am ready to sell.
