For the Love of God, GI Joe and John Wayne.... cleaning and abrasive cleaners

[Ichi]

Watched a Jerry Miculek video on cleaning/maintaining an AR where he used a contact cleaner to flush out the trigger area of the lower receiver.

Anyone use something like CRC Contact Cleaner to flush the bore before applying a final coat of oil?

Curious if Hornady One-Shot as a flush/final lube for the bore?

 

[SilentStalkr]

I seem to recall a website of a highly regarded barrel maker which clearly recommends only using Hoppes and patches. No brushes, no drill, no polishing compound, etc. Crazy thing, Hoppes #9 on a patch has worked great for me for many years and many tens of thousands of rounds down the bore of those fine barrels. Weird.

I used to only use Hoppes, rarely a nylon brush and cleaned much the same way you are seemingly describing. However, after developing a carbon ring, the bore cam showed the barrel was anything but clean. I thought it was clean all that time but with the cam it was clear that Hoppes wasn’t doing crap, which would be why I was rarely getting anything on my patches. At best I’d get carbon for a few with a very light amount of green or blue but most of the time nothing at all.

Many smiths claimed, that many people would do more damage to a barrel cleaning than they could ever do shooting it. I tend to agree and for the longest time I prescribed to cleaning only after Accuracy dropped off. Funny thing tho my 6 Creedmoor, before it developed the carbon ring never had accuracy drop off after anywhere from 800-1000 rds. In fact, it was getting better and better until the carbon ring started causing feeding/pressure issues. So with that said, and what Frank mentions above about letting them sit dirty, I’m thinking of going back to cleaning every range session. Maybe not necessarily brushing but at least run a patch through them after each session. Currently, I’d just come home and put them up, lube where needed before the next session and keep on shooting. But now y’all got me wigging out thinking I’ve ruined a few rifles by letting them sit dirty.

 

[lash]

Watched a Jerry Miculek video on cleaning/maintaining an AR where he used a contact cleaner to flush out the trigger area of the lower receiver.

Anyone use something like CRC Contact Cleaner to flush the bore before applying a final coat of oil?

View attachment 8272085


Curious if Hornady One-Shot as a flush/final lube for the bore?

View attachment 8272080

Well down here, CNC contact cleaner is $13/bottle and has a shelf life of maybe 3-6 months before it rusts out the bottom and destroys anything near it. So no. I’ve been fine just cleaning often with patch and Hoppes and then a wet patch, followed by a dry patch.
I do believe I’m going to do like Frank suggested and try to remember to go back after a couple/few days and do another quick clean.

 

[RUN8]

Corrosion/ pitting. I/we can’t put an exact finger on what and how it happens. We’ve just seen a pattern with the stuff.

Here is my guess. Being 90% or so water base is the issue. Just like if you shoot the barrel and put it away dirty for an extended period of time the bore will corrode/pit. It’s the moisture/humidity in the air reacting with the carbon fouling etc…that starts the corrosion process. Now you have a cleaner that is 90% water based. Little to no oil or preservative to protect the bore.

One guy who lives in Arizona where it’s dry and low humidity vs a guy living near the ocean or in a real humid environment has problems. We can’t replicate every scenario.

After I clean my barrel… I’ll run a patches of Hoppe’s down the bore. It will protect as good as any oil as well as it keeps cleaning. Just dry patch it (depending on how long it sat I will run a fresh wet patch down the bore) before shooting it. Also I’ve used CLP in the past to protect the bore but don’t use it anymore for the bore. Just the moving parts on some of the gun.

Frank,

Thanks for taking the time to explain all of this to us. I believe I have one of your barrels on my new Accuracy International AT-X which is wearing a 6.5mm tube from Wintac that is a 1-8” twist with 5R rifling. The barrel performs above my expectations or ability, and I’d like to help it live a long service life.

In your post above you mention having used CLP as a bore preservative, and I was curious if you could weigh in on the practice of running a wet patch of CLP or two down the bore immediately after a range session before casing up the rifle and heading home?

I habitually do this whenever possible because I am under the impression that the CLP being a mild detergent oil at the very least keeps carbon fouling soft, and in the event I am delayed in cleaning will keep moisture from setting in and causing trouble.

My climate is semi-arid, so I might just be wasting CLP particularly if there’s no benefit to cleaning.

In your experience does an oily patch or two run immediately after shooting is finished offer any benefits?

Thanks for your time.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Frank,

Thanks for taking the time to explain all of this to us. I believe I have one of your barrels on my new Accuracy International AT-X which is wearing a 6.5mm tube from Wintac that is a 1-8” twist with 5R rifling. The barrel performs above my expectations or ability, and I’d like to help it live a long service life.

In your post above you mention having used CLP as a bore preservative, and I was curious if you could weigh in on the practice of running a wet patch of CLP or two down the bore immediately after a range session before casing up the rifle and heading home?

I habitually do this whenever possible because I am under the impression that the CLP being a mild detergent oil at the very least keeps carbon fouling soft, and in the event I am delayed in cleaning will keep moisture from setting in and causing trouble.

My climate is semi-arid, so I might just be wasting CLP particularly if there’s no benefit to cleaning.

In your experience does an oily patch or two run immediately after shooting is finished offer any benefits?

Thanks for your time.

I wouldn't think it was going to hurt anything to do it and if it's going to be a bit before you clean it I would think it would have to be better than nothing. Probably best to just run a really wet hoppes patch through it then a CLP one just to get the bulk of the carbon and loose stuff out before the oil. I suppose just oil on the dirt and carbon left there could add to the total gunk in the barrel though so I'm interested to see what frank says about this. @Frank Green

I have a similar thing I do when I get back and put my rifle back in the safe if I can't clean it right then but I like to get the gunk out a little before I put any oil on it.

 

[RUN8]

It’s just an old habit I picked up in the USMC anytime we had to fire blanks. After we would wrap up whatever asinine training involved the carbon bearing squib loads of Satan’s asshole, I would very generously soak the bore and chamber (along with the bolt carrier) with CLP if I had any to spare. Seemed to make life a bit easier cleaning all that shit out to turn back into the armory at least if Gollum er… I mean the armorer was allowing his precious CLP, patches, and Q-Tips to fall into the grubby hands of us unwashed heathen grunts.

 

[Frank Green]

I wouldn't think it was going to hurt anything to do it and if it's going to be a bit before you clean it I would think it would have to be better than nothing. Probably best to just run a really wet hoppes patch through it then a CLP one just to get the bulk of the carbon and loose stuff out before the oil. I suppose just oil on the dirt and carbon left there could add to the total gunk in the barrel though so I'm interested to see what frank says about this. @Frank Green

I have a similar thing I do when I get back and put my rifle back in the safe if I can't clean it right then but I like to get the gunk out a little before I put any oil on it.

I'd use Hoppes but something is better than nothing.... I don't see a reason why you can't at least run some CLP down the bore to protect it until you can get around to cleaning it.

Putting it away dry and dirty though... asking for problems.

Later, Frank

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Someone is following this page............

 

[6.5SH]

Someone is following this page............

Some of what he's calling carbon is pitting.

 

[Rio Precision Gunworks]

Some of what he's calling carbon is pitting.

Pitting in a barrel that's cleaned regularly and has less that 2500 rounds? Also, those places are removed in subsequent cleaning in the video.

Most of what people see in a barrel and think isn't carbon.....actually is carbon.

 

[6.5SH]

Pitting in a barrel that's cleaned regularly and has less that 2500 rounds?

Cleaned with CLR, look at the bore cam sections, those areas aren't raised carbon build up.

 

[Rio Precision Gunworks]

Cleaned with CLR, look at the bore cam sections, those areas aren't raised carbon build up.

LOL. Patches of CLR aren't going to pit a barrel.

You can etch the steel if you leave it in standing CLR.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

There is a reason eric is flushing with Iso after every run. I have never used alcohol in a bore in over 20 years of cleaning rifles and until I tried CLR, didn't believe their was a need. Have used just about every cleaner and solvent over the years and never seen a bore rust that wasn't stored in a humid environment for a long time. He is having to flush the CLR shit out. That stuff is NASTY, and I am about to clean out 2 barrels the 2nd time because there was residual CLR in the thread protector for the tenon. I think the fumes from it are causing corrosion in bore. Going to neutralizer it with some everclear and then see if growth stops.

 

[6.5SH]

LOL. Patches of CLR aren't going to pit a barrel.

You can etch the steel if you leave it in standing CLR.

As you said it's a used barrel, clearly something in his past use or cleanings (which included CLR) caused pitting.

 

[JayMazee]

There is so much pseudo-science and feelings here. You could swap this from a 2008 thread on the same topic and have the EXACT same quality of discussion.

Sometimes I'm like, man, crazy that people in the past believed the dumbest shit... Then I skim over 10 pages of

• "this works for me!"
• "I saw this one time"
• "In the military where we it wasn't ours and we didn't care at all we did this"
• "I heard that"

... Then it all makes sense.

Funny because in other threads I see "barrels are a consumable item!" then other people talking about their 40 step quick process breathing in and handling cancer chemicals to make it to 90k rounds.

EDIT: Why is it so hard to put your money where your mouth is? How many people are posting targets before and after their secret squirrel cleaning method? Where is the science at all?

 

[RUN8]

I'd use Hoppes but something is better than nothing.... I don't see a reason why you can't at least run some CLP down the bore to protect it until you can get around to cleaning it.

Putting it away dry and dirty though... asking for problems.

Later, Frank

Thanks Frank, I will try Hoppes in the future since it seems to do a fair job of preventing corrosion if left in a barrel for awhile. It’s certainly a more effective powder fouling solvent.

 

[RUN8]

There is so much pseudo-science and feelings here. You could swap this from a 2008 thread on the same topic and have the EXACT same quality of discussion.

Sometimes I'm like, man, crazy that people in the past believed the dumbest shit... Then I skim over 10 pages of

• "this works for me!"
• "I saw this one time"
• "In the military where we it wasn't ours and we didn't care at all we did this"
• "I heard that"

... Then it all makes sense.

Funny because in other threads I see "barrels are a consumable item!" then other people talking about their 40 step quick process breathing in and handling cancer chemicals to make it to 90k rounds.

EDIT: Why is it so hard to put your money where your mouth is? How many people are posting targets before and after their secret squirrel cleaning method? Where is the science at all?

I’m not about to do some 40 step process to clean a barrel.

I just clean after every range session, so figure 20-120 rounds or so. Might take me 20-30 minutes total for the whole rifle. Thus far my average group sizes have stayed very consistent, but the barrel is still pretty new and it’s never getting all that dirty.

 

[Baron23]

As you said it's a used barrel, clearly something in his past use or cleanings (which included CLR) caused pitting.

View attachment 8273534View attachment 8273535View attachment 8273536View attachment 8273537View attachment 8273538View attachment 8273539View attachment 8273540View attachment 8273541

Looks like pitting to me. And doesn’t look like carbon I see in my barrels.

 

[Maggot]

Yup best to not be at either extreme.

I keep trying to educate folks to that idea regarding politics and religion. Little to no result.

 

[232593]

I'd use Hoppes but something is better than nothing.... I don't see a reason why you can't at least run some CLP down the bore to protect it until you can get around to cleaning it.

Putting it away dry and dirty though... asking for problems.

Later, Frank

With my 22 CM 400MODBB AR10 barrel I’m finding that Hoppes and a bore snake are all that’s required even with a high round count of the 90 grain ATIPS.

 

[Cr1775]

With my 22 CM 400MODBB AR10 barrel I’m finding that Hoppes and a bore snake are all that’s required even with a high round count of the 90 grain ATIPS.

I put my bore snakes in the garbage after Frank made a comment on them.

 

[232593]

I put my bore snakes in the garbage after Frank made a comment on them.

Really, what comment?

 

[ToddM]

I still use my bore snakes, but I use them with a very undersized brush and basically just use them to apply Hoppes #9 at the range so it soaks for a bit till I get home. I know some will take the brush out but it's a huge PITA, so I just buy them small and use them for that.

One thing I've noticed trying several cleaning routines over the last few years, and I'm sure barrel quality matters in how easily a barrel is cleaned, is that from what I've seen if you do average range shooting, say 20-100 rounds a range visit, and don't clean except when you get home, for me nothing short of a nylon brush and something abrasive will clean all the carbon out, esp. in the grooves, not BoreTech Carbon remover, not Rem 40x, even JB won't. I've tried all the cleaners you hear mentioned and if you just use a jag, it simply won't get into the grooves to get the carbon out, lands will be spotless. Now maybe that doesn't matter, but it seems like leaving carbon in can lead to pitting which seems bad. Also some guns seem to really like to develop carbon rings quickly and some do not clean out easily.

That said, I still trust Frank's cleaning routine and it's typically what I do now, I put #9 in at the range, let it soak till I get home, and only use jag/patches with either Boretech Carbon / Copper (I make sure I clean it out with isopropyl after hearing Frank's mention they've seen rust/pitting with it) and usually finish with some 40x. If it's really bad I'll use some JB non-embedding, but only very rarely, again making sure it's all flushed out, then I store with #9 and dry patch before the range. I just accept that routine will not get all the carbon out, and hope that's the lesser of two evils. I've thought about plugging barrels and just leaving #9 in them between range visits but I don't think that would help the carbon, even after a month of leaving a barrel wet patched with #9 patches don't show any evidence that they #9 is dissolving any carbon over time.

 

[Frank Green]

Really, what comment?

One thought is ”how do you clean the bore snakes?” Once that rope thing is dirty are you dragging garbage down the bore and possibly scratching it?

How do you be sure you pull it straight out and not drag it over the edge of the crown?

Food for thought.

Later, Frank

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

One thought is ”how do you clean the bore snakes?” Once that rope thing is dirty are you dragging garbage down the bore and possibly scratching it?

How do you be sure you pull it straight out and not drag it over the edge of the crown?

Food for thought.

Later, Frank

A boresnake is a last resort for me on an AR if I get mud in the barrel or something while in the field, then I wash em with simple green, but I avoid them if at all possible.

 

[lash]

A boresnake is a last resort for me on an AR if I get mud in the barrel or something while in the field, then I wash em with simple green, but I avoid them if at all possible.

Exactly, it’s a field item to be used only when necessary, in my view.

 

[232593]

One thought is ”how do you clean the bore snakes?” Once that rope thing is dirty are you dragging garbage down the bore and possibly scratching it?

How do you be sure you pull it straight out and not drag it over the edge of the crown?

Food for thought.

Later, Frank

Thank you.

I usually wash them and let them dry, but good point, I have no way of knowing if they are truly clean.

I left the muzzle brake on when cleaning the 400MODBB to keep it from dragging on the edge of the crown.

Back to patches it is.

 

[Shutrmgavin]

Thought I’d share. I had a decent carbon ring in my 6.5 cm barrel after 1k rounds or so. Used nonabrasive Flitz bore cleaner and twisted a bronze brush around and around for a minute. Patched out the flitz then put borescope in. Ring gone. PVA barrel

 

[Cr1775]

Thought I’d share. I had a decent carbon ring in my 6.5 cm barrel after 1k rounds or so. Used nonabrasive Flitz bore cleaner and twisted a bronze brush around and around for a minute. Patched out the flitz then put borescope in. Ring gone. PVA barrel

Did you use a drill? Oh boy.

 

[RUN8]

Thought I’d share. I had a decent carbon ring in my 6.5 cm barrel after 1k rounds or so. Used nonabrasive Flitz bore cleaner and twisted a bronze brush around and around for a minute. Patched out the flitz then put borescope in. Ring gone. PVA barrel

Well does it still shoot well after that?

 

[232593]

Oh really? Tell that to VV.

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Talk to anyone who shoots N565-N570 and ask them about barrel life compared to something like retumbo or RL33.

Do you think the 400MODBB would extend the life of a barrel using N570 to a similar lifespan as retumbo or RL33?

 

[carbonbased]

One thought is ”how do you clean the bore snakes?” Once that rope thing is dirty are you dragging garbage down the bore and possibly scratching it?

How do you be sure you pull it straight out and not drag it over the edge of the crown?

Food for thought.

Later, Frank

Hey Frank, what do you think about the following? I’m genuinely curious as to what you think.

I don’t use a bore snake but sometime when I’m lazy (or can’t find the right pellets/patches/jags/rods/etc) I use a Patchworm cord with a VFG felt pellet or patch. To protect the crown, I use 4”-6” length of straw.

After first putting the pellet/patch on and applying cleaning fluid, I then thread the Patchworm down the bore. Then I slide the straw over the cord and into the bore. I hold the straw in so it doesn’t fall out. As I pull the cord the straw will come out when the pellet/patch pushes it out.

I can’t see how the crown gets damaged in this way of working.

If my straw is too big for the bore (I shoot little calibers a lot), I make a spiral cut on it lengthwise so it’ll constrict without letting the cord slip through.

Anyway, thoughts?

 

[Shutrmgavin]

Well does it still shoot well after that?

I have range at my house so I shot it afterwards. It was still 3/8 MOA but the SD’s were back to 10. It was a success

 

[Shutrmgavin]

Did you use a drill? Oh boy.

I have a range at my house and shot it right after. Still 3/8 moa but the SD’s are back to around 10 fps. It was a success. Did not use a drill. You can’t hurt the inside of most barrels with non abrasives and a bronze brush even if you do use a drill though.

 

[mark5pt56]

Pretty simple with the cord type pull through other than the bore snake type. Just "pinch" the cord with your fingers as you anchor them against the muzzle, this will keep the cord centered and not ride against the crown. It's not rocket science boys. Just a "man made" solution to a mechanical one.

 

[RUN8]

I have range at my house so I shot it afterwards. It was still 3/8 MOA but the SD’s were back to 10. It was a success

Glad it worked out for you.

 

[25ring]

Hey Frank, what do you think about the following? I’m genuinely curious as to what you think.

I don’t use a bore snake but sometime when I’m lazy (or can’t find the right pellets/patches/jags/rods/etc) I use a Patchworm cord with a VFG felt pellet or patch. To protect the crown, I use 4”-6” length of straw.

After first putting the pellet/patch on and applying cleaning fluid, I then thread the Patchworm down the bore. Then I slide the straw over the cord and into the bore. I hold the straw in so it doesn’t fall out. As I pull the cord the straw will come out when the pellet/patch pushes it out.

I can’t see how the crown gets damaged in this way of working.

If my straw is too big for the bore (I shoot little calibers a lot), I make a spiral cut on it lengthwise so it’ll constrict without letting the cord slip through.

Anyway, thoughts?

Curious to see the answer on this as well. I use a patchworm on auto loaders using both patches and VFG felts. I use weed trimmer line and don't bother with a straw.

 

[Frank Green]

Hey Frank, what do you think about the following? I’m genuinely curious as to what you think.

I don’t use a bore snake but sometime when I’m lazy (or can’t find the right pellets/patches/jags/rods/etc) I use a Patchworm cord with a VFG felt pellet or patch. To protect the crown, I use 4”-6” length of straw.

After first putting the pellet/patch on and applying cleaning fluid, I then thread the Patchworm down the bore. Then I slide the straw over the cord and into the bore. I hold the straw in so it doesn’t fall out. As I pull the cord the straw will come out when the pellet/patch pushes it out.

I can’t see how the crown gets damaged in this way of working.

If my straw is too big for the bore (I shoot little calibers a lot), I make a spiral cut on it lengthwise so it’ll constrict without letting the cord slip through.

Anyway, thoughts?

Never tried it that way or with those items. So you’re taking precautions for damage to the crown at the muzzle end. That’s a +. Your thinking outside the box and that’s cool!

There is more than one way to skin this cat. If it’s working for ya… I’ve got nothing to say.

 

[Shutrmgavin]

I’m not about to do some 40 step process to clean a barrel.

I just clean after every range session, so figure 20-120 rounds or so. Might take me 20-30 minutes total for the whole rifle. Thus far my average group sizes have stayed very consistent, but the barrel is still pretty new and it’s never getting all that dirty.

The barrel I have cleaned with C4 and a bronze brush while they were hot from the shooting session (20-200 rounds shot across a day or two or five) never got a hard carbon ring. Not a proper study but…

 

[lash]

@Frank Green, I just thought I’d submit the following anecdote regarding one of your suggestions in this thread.

You had mentioned that after initial cleaning, you will run a wet patch through and set it aside for a day or so and then brush plus clean again. While I thought that I was getting my .22 clean each time after shooting, evidenced by clean dry patches after wet patches, I was wrong.

I cleaned my barrel well after a match a week ago, then ran a wet patch through (Hoppes 9) and put the rifle away intending to redo it in a day or so. I finally got to it yesterday. So I ran a dry patch through and it did not come out clean. Then I ran a wet patch and ran the brush through it once. Next patch came out quite dirty!

So I cleaned it well again and left it set after another wet patch. I’m curious what I’ll find tomorrow if I do the same thing.

For anyone curious what I mean by dirty patch, I mean lots of black carbon on the patch. Not green or mild grey residue, but dark black residue on the patches. I should have taken a pic or two.

 

[Frank Green]

@Frank Green, I just thought I’d submit the following anecdote regarding one of your suggestions in this thread.

You had mentioned that after initial cleaning, you will run a wet patch through and set it aside for a day or so and then brush plus clean again. While I thought that I was getting my .22 clean each time after shooting, evidenced by clean dry patches after wet patches, I was wrong.

I cleaned my barrel well after a match a week ago, then ran a wet patch through (Hoppes 9) and put the rifle away intending to redo it in a day or so. I finally got to it yesterday. So I ran a dry patch through and it did not come out clean. Then I ran a wet patch and ran the brush through it once. Next patch came out quite dirty!

So I cleaned it well again and left it set after another wet patch. I’m curious what I’ll find tomorrow if I do the same thing.

For anyone curious what I mean by dirty patch, I mean lots of black carbon on the patch. Not green or mild grey residue, but dark black residue on the patches. I should have taken a pic or two.

Most of the time I don't use a brush.

By letting the barrel sit with solvent in it your giving the solvent time to work (be careful with what type of solvent you are using!)

It's also what I call the barrel is doing is "sweating". Your patch is going over the surface and especially as the bore gets rougher etc... the patch cannot get down into those cracks and fissures in the breech end of the barrel.

 

[SilentStalkr]

@Frank Green, I just thought I’d submit the following anecdote regarding one of your suggestions in this thread.

You had mentioned that after initial cleaning, you will run a wet patch through and set it aside for a day or so and then brush plus clean again. While I thought that I was getting my .22 clean each time after shooting, evidenced by clean dry patches after wet patches, I was wrong.

I cleaned my barrel well after a match a week ago, then ran a wet patch through (Hoppes 9) and put the rifle away intending to redo it in a day or so. I finally got to it yesterday. So I ran a dry patch through and it did not come out clean. Then I ran a wet patch and ran the brush through it once. Next patch came out quite dirty!

So I cleaned it well again and left it set after another wet patch. I’m curious what I’ll find tomorrow if I do the same thing.

For anyone curious what I mean by dirty patch, I mean lots of black carbon on the patch. Not green or mild grey residue, but dark black residue on the patches. I should have taken a pic or two.

You should try that with Patch out. Forget Hoppes. Like you, I used to use hoppes and thought I was getting my stuff clean and boy was I wrong.

 

[Ex E6]

What mental midget decided putting acid down a Bore was a good thing ? CLR , ISN'T for bore cleaning !.

IF any of you really want to clean a bore ,there are plenty of commercially available cleaners available . Granted some better than others .

Homemade solutions abound ,again some better than others . Anyone remember " HOW " black powder carbon is cleaned ?

Yep Boiling water and a detergent , Dawn ,Lemishine or tide . " IF " you've got a nasty barrel or just want it really cleaned ,purchase silicone tapered plugs ( I use Shercon and they are reusable ) even after firing in a Powder coat oven . Some will take 600 Deg. or more . Neoprene are also good for boiling water and soap .

OK ; So some of you are flipping out water down MY bore , oh Hell NO !. OK Marvel Mystery oil and carb cleaner or brake fluid Dot 4 type .even a 30% solution of acetone and 70% Marvel Mystery oil or Brake cleaner . Put a stopper in the muzzle ,hang it in a simple rack . Made mine out of 2x4's horizontal as well as vertical . A horizontal hole drilled through 2x4's up rights takes a 1/2" or 3/4" hardwood dowel ,which passes through rifles trigger guard ,thus suspending barrel off the ground by a few inches . A 1x4 across the back of those 2x4 up rights prevents rifles from spinning over center . It's NOT rocket science to clean carbon ,cleaning enzymes will do it FASTER HEATED . Afterwards simply patch with whatever snake oil You use . I use MC 7 bore cleaner or shooters choice . Keep em in the X ring

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[Tokay444]

Are the available commercially available cleaners always available or are they just available when they’re available?

 

[NiteQwill]

What mental midget decided putting acid down a Bore was a good thing ? CLR , ISN'T for bore cleaning !.

IF any of you really want to clean a bore ,there are plenty of commercially available cleaners available . Granted some better than others .

Homemade solutions abound ,again some better than others . Anyone remember " HOW " black powder carbon is cleaned ?

Yep Boiling water and a detergent , Dawn ,Lemishine or tide . " IF " you've got a nasty barrel or just want it really cleaned ,purchase silicone tapered plugs ( I use Shercon and they are reusable ) even after firing in a Powder coat oven . Some will take 600 Deg. or more . Neoprene are also good for boiling water and soap .

OK ; So some of you are flipping out water down MY bore , oh Hell NO !. OK Marvel Mystery oil and carb cleaner or brake fluid Dot 4 type .even a 30% solution of acetone and 70% Marvel Mystery oil or Brake cleaner . Put a stopper in the muzzle ,hang it in a simple rack . Made mine out of 2x4's horizontal as well as vertical . A horizontal hole drilled through 2x4's up rights takes a 1/2" or 3/4" hardwood dowel ,which passes through rifles trigger guard ,thus suspending barrel off the ground by a few inches . A 1x4 across the back of those 2x4 up rights prevents rifles from spinning over center . It's NOT rocket science to clean carbon ,cleaning enzymes will do it FASTER HEATED . Afterwards simply patch with whatever snake oil You use . I use MC 7 bore cleaner or shooters choice . Keep em in the X ring

https://www.caplugs.com/c/masking-parts

High Temp Masking Supply .250" x .375" STP104 Silicone Rubber Plugs​

HTMS-STP104-50

FREE Shipping in the USA!

• $ 8.95 #50

I wish I could read your wall of text, understand your improper punctuation, etc.

I can see why you didn't get promoted to E7.

 

[45-90]

So put your used ear plugs in your barrels bore and soak over night...with whatever you find around the house and /or garage marked as a solvent cleaner, or acid...maybe a mix of all that stuff...plug the bore with used ear plug and pour in your favorite chemicals...I heard, heavy concentrated acids may take a little less time...but that could just be a rumor.

 

[4O6shootist]

So put your used ear plugs in your barrels bore and soak over night...with whatever you find around the house and /or garage marked as a solvent cleaner, or acid...maybe a mix of all that stuff...plug the bore with used ear plug and pour in your favorite chemicals...I heard, heavy concentrated acids may take a little less time...but that could just be a rumor.

Ear plug prob won't hold up to that stuff, just saying

 

[45-90]

Ear plug prob won't hold up to that stuff, just saying

Even better, ...when the acid in the bore cuts through the used ear plug, the acid automatically drains out ...and you're done cleaning, ...yet preserving most of your rifling...gotta be totally excited, when the perfect solution comes along, to solve all your cleaning problems.

 

[4O6shootist]

Even better, ...when the acid in the bore cuts through the used ear plug, the acid automatically drains out ...and you're done cleaning, ...yet preserving most of your rifling...gotta be totally excited, when the perfect solution comes along, to solve all your cleaning problems.

Just use clr and thoroclean, done in 10 minutes. But then again I don't shoot Bartlein, cuz me no likely.

 

[Raffy]

This thread has devolved.