Re: GEN2XR users....
Hazardus,
I'm afraid I don't understand your definition of a "true milling reticle"
What difference does the length of a hash mark make when you're milling a target? You need to be able to break the mil down as fine as possible, and in my opinion a hash mark scope doesn't do it at all. Why is that you ask?
I'm glad you asked so here's why I like the .2 diameter dot and Gen II reticle over anything else for milling.
Half a dot is .1 Mil
A full dot is .2 Mils
From half Mil hash mark to edge of a dot is .4Mils
From half Mil hash mark to center of a dot is .5 Mils
From half Mil hash mark to back edge of a dot is .6 Mils
From the edge of one Mil dot to the edge of the next Mil dot is .8mils
From the edge of one Mil dot to the center of the next Mil dot is .9 Mils
From center to center of Mil dots is 1 Mil
From center of one Mil dot to the far edge of the next Mil dot is 1.1 Mils
from far edge of one Mil dot to the far edge of the next Mil dot is 1.2 Mils
You will not be able to break down a Mil dot into tenths as easy as this using a hash mark Mil dot scope.
These dots also make it much easier for MY eye to keep count of a hold over or hold under when I have the power turned down because I may be shooting moving targets, or am in a position where I'm not going to be steady and want a bigger field of view
Now if people would actually study the dimensions of the center of the Gen II mildot reticle, the one on the Heritage, instead of just looking at it and saying "that's cool, I like the gaps there, it makes it easier to center on the target" or whatever they say. If you study the dimension sheet that is on the PR website of that center you'll see that you can use that area to really get some very accurate dimensions to help break down the Mil into much more accurate dimensions that are VERY important when actually milling a target out past say 600 yards where accurate ranging becomes more critical.
I keep hearing that the Gen II lines are too thick, I think that's great, they're easier to see when the power is turned down. I can still shoot groups pretty well on 1/2" dots too.
Oh yeah, and looking at pictures of reticles on a computer screen can be misleading. Study the dimensional drawings of the reticles to get a picture of how that thing is going to look in real life.
All just my opinion, I hope everyone gets the reticle that works for them, just throwing my observations and experience in the mix for discussion.
