There is a good article on this very subject from some military guys over on survivalblog.com. on 09/04/2012. They are speaking mainly from experiences and conditions in Iraq and it is inline with what alot of the responses said. It also somewhat addressed my original question about oil weights. I don't know if it really matters or not but in this enviroment of specialization every little bit of usefull info helps. Also, some suggested that I might be looking for a cheaper way out. This is not the case. Have you seen the price of patches, bore solvents, copper solvents, etc. I have to make my shooting and prep dollars count as they are harder to come by lately.
Gunsmithing Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
- Thread starter Eric Myers
- Start date
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
Maybe check this out, and search some of the other threads already existing:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3543112&page=1
Maybe check this out, and search some of the other threads already existing:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3543112&page=1
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
It's likely your gun will run just fine on anything from Crisco to KY. Go into your garage, find a quart of oil, ATF, power steering fluid, gear oil, or axle grease and try it out. If you don't like it, try something different.
It's likely your gun will run just fine on anything from Crisco to KY. Go into your garage, find a quart of oil, ATF, power steering fluid, gear oil, or axle grease and try it out. If you don't like it, try something different.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
I use synthetic wheel bearing grease (specifically lucas) on all my guns. I have found it will not dry up, does not have problems with varying temperatures, coats remarkably well, and doesn't cost much. Most importantly, it stays where you put it which is why I have abandoned all light weight products. CLP is the worst example of this problem. Damn stuff dries up quick in a semi-auto and runs off where you want it no mater what type of firearm you have. It's neither a good lube nor a good cleaning solution.
I would change my tune if I were in a dusty environment. The bearing grease I use does not do well in blowing sand. I think Miltec is probably the best answer to that difficult problem. It is not a good answer, it is just hard to make a good lube that doesn't eat sand like a fat guy at pizza hut.
I use synthetic wheel bearing grease (specifically lucas) on all my guns. I have found it will not dry up, does not have problems with varying temperatures, coats remarkably well, and doesn't cost much. Most importantly, it stays where you put it which is why I have abandoned all light weight products. CLP is the worst example of this problem. Damn stuff dries up quick in a semi-auto and runs off where you want it no mater what type of firearm you have. It's neither a good lube nor a good cleaning solution.
I would change my tune if I were in a dusty environment. The bearing grease I use does not do well in blowing sand. I think Miltec is probably the best answer to that difficult problem. It is not a good answer, it is just hard to make a good lube that doesn't eat sand like a fat guy at pizza hut.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EricCartmann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
</div></div>
Had a friend in the Canadian army that said the same thing about the 7.62 browning MG's.
If it got sluggish,pour on some more motor oil.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EricCartmann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
Had a friend in the Canadian army that said the same thing about the 7.62 browning MG's.
If it got sluggish,pour on some more motor oil.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
Interesting story from a recently deceased master machinist and mould maker. He was a do it yourselfer to the T. Some years ago he was working up a cast bullet lube. After research he bought some Jojoba oil...it comes from an Arizona plant but is chemically identical to Sperm Whale Oil, which was used for years as an extreme pressure lube. He was messing with it in his shop when another old codger wandered in. The stuff stinks. The old codger stuck his nose near the work and nearly exploded. "Where did you get that Whale Oil?" was the question. When informed of what the stuff really was, the old gent told my friend that, "That whale oil was used in Jeep differentials, and was stolen by the machine gunners in the Pacific. It was the only oil that would keep the air cooled .30's and 50's running during the fighting out there." Some coincidence.
Interesting story from a recently deceased master machinist and mould maker. He was a do it yourselfer to the T. Some years ago he was working up a cast bullet lube. After research he bought some Jojoba oil...it comes from an Arizona plant but is chemically identical to Sperm Whale Oil, which was used for years as an extreme pressure lube. He was messing with it in his shop when another old codger wandered in. The stuff stinks. The old codger stuck his nose near the work and nearly exploded. "Where did you get that Whale Oil?" was the question. When informed of what the stuff really was, the old gent told my friend that, "That whale oil was used in Jeep differentials, and was stolen by the machine gunners in the Pacific. It was the only oil that would keep the air cooled .30's and 50's running during the fighting out there." Some coincidence.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EricCartmann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
</div></div>
Had a friend in the Canadian army that said the same thing about the 7.62 browning MG's.
If it got sluggish,pour on some more motor oil. </div></div>
When I was in the Army I got stuck with the M60's a lot. Especially the newly arrived M60's (whether realy NEW or just rebuilt I never knew). I would take a quart of PLS and a couple of 100 round belts out. Open the feed tray/cover, pour in some PLS up and down the tray, work the bolt back and forth a few times, pour in some more PLS, put a belt in, clost the tray and go. Bump, bump, hang (probably a short stroke but I didn't know that at the time, I'd just pull the handle rearwards/push it forwards and go again), bump, bump, bump, hand, cock it again, etc., etc., etc. and it would begin to go longer between hangs and pretty soon it was running like a top. I'd just keep pouring oil in it at intervals (whenever it felt a little draggy anytime I put a belt in it and pulled the charging handle rearward) and ran it all week as required by the activities. Yeah, I got oil on my face, on my hands, on my fatigues but the gun ran without issue and clean up was a breeze. Turn the show on full hot, wait till the water spray seemed to be "dancing" across the tiles, open the feed tray/cover, pull the bipod legs down and push it back under the hot shower water spray. Let it sit till the crud stopped running out and turn the water off, grab the carry handle and head to the room. It would be dry by the time I got to the room. Pull the barrel off, clean the barrel, oil it up and set it aside. Tear the gun down, wipe off the parts, wipe the parts with and oily rag and put it back together, put the barrel on it and go to the arms room. Only to be accused of not shooting it when the armorer checked it (I was always the first one to return an M60 and mine was always the cleanest). I'd remind Hetzel that he'd been around more than once when I was shooting it and he'd grudgingly take it in and let me go back to the room to clean my M14 (never ran the M14 that wet for some reason so it always took more cleaning effort/time).
I run my AR15's sloppy wet with Mobil 1 these days. Gets my hands dirty but the rifles clean up nice and easy and quick. Now I'm using the Mobil 1 on my plastic pistols as well. no issues so far.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zuke</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EricCartmann</div><div class="ubbcode-body">synthetic oils (both motor and ATF) seems like it never really breaks down. Even if gun is super filthy, just drench more oil and and it keeps on going. I have done it myself, put dirt in the action and it just shoots and shoots.
Had a friend in the Canadian army that said the same thing about the 7.62 browning MG's.
If it got sluggish,pour on some more motor oil. </div></div>
When I was in the Army I got stuck with the M60's a lot. Especially the newly arrived M60's (whether realy NEW or just rebuilt I never knew). I would take a quart of PLS and a couple of 100 round belts out. Open the feed tray/cover, pour in some PLS up and down the tray, work the bolt back and forth a few times, pour in some more PLS, put a belt in, clost the tray and go. Bump, bump, hang (probably a short stroke but I didn't know that at the time, I'd just pull the handle rearwards/push it forwards and go again), bump, bump, bump, hand, cock it again, etc., etc., etc. and it would begin to go longer between hangs and pretty soon it was running like a top. I'd just keep pouring oil in it at intervals (whenever it felt a little draggy anytime I put a belt in it and pulled the charging handle rearward) and ran it all week as required by the activities. Yeah, I got oil on my face, on my hands, on my fatigues but the gun ran without issue and clean up was a breeze. Turn the show on full hot, wait till the water spray seemed to be "dancing" across the tiles, open the feed tray/cover, pull the bipod legs down and push it back under the hot shower water spray. Let it sit till the crud stopped running out and turn the water off, grab the carry handle and head to the room. It would be dry by the time I got to the room. Pull the barrel off, clean the barrel, oil it up and set it aside. Tear the gun down, wipe off the parts, wipe the parts with and oily rag and put it back together, put the barrel on it and go to the arms room. Only to be accused of not shooting it when the armorer checked it (I was always the first one to return an M60 and mine was always the cleanest). I'd remind Hetzel that he'd been around more than once when I was shooting it and he'd grudgingly take it in and let me go back to the room to clean my M14 (never ran the M14 that wet for some reason so it always took more cleaning effort/time).
I run my AR15's sloppy wet with Mobil 1 these days. Gets my hands dirty but the rifles clean up nice and easy and quick. Now I'm using the Mobil 1 on my plastic pistols as well. no issues so far.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
ATF is hygroscopic. I like mobil 1 oils and gear oils. Molly grease on bolt lugs.
ATF is hygroscopic. I like mobil 1 oils and gear oils. Molly grease on bolt lugs.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
A new Beretta O/U shotgun came with a small bottle of Beretta Oil. On the back of the bottle is a Valvoline logo....
Sliding parts get light grease, all other moving parts get a 3 to 1 mix of Mobil1 and Permatex Engine Assembly Lube. The assembly lube is thick and sticky and keeps the lube where you put it.
A new Beretta O/U shotgun came with a small bottle of Beretta Oil. On the back of the bottle is a Valvoline logo....
Sliding parts get light grease, all other moving parts get a 3 to 1 mix of Mobil1 and Permatex Engine Assembly Lube. The assembly lube is thick and sticky and keeps the lube where you put it.
Re: Gun oil vs. Motor oil? Please Part Two
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sporter II</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ATF is hygroscopic.</div></div>
No, it isn't, despite what gets said on some car and gun forums. I believe someone got it confused with brake fluid (which indeed *is* hygroscopic) and the rumor spread.
<span style="font-style: italic">For the purpose of firearm lubrication</span>, ATF can basically be thought of as a 0W20 motor oil with red dye.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sporter II</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ATF is hygroscopic.</div></div>
No, it isn't, despite what gets said on some car and gun forums. I believe someone got it confused with brake fluid (which indeed *is* hygroscopic) and the rumor spread.
<span style="font-style: italic">For the purpose of firearm lubrication</span>, ATF can basically be thought of as a 0W20 motor oil with red dye.
Similar threads
