Homemade Induction Annealer

[hdmunger]

Aluminum would be 1000% easier to work with LOL. The back side of the board does also allow you to quite easily have a shorter standoff, as well as easier to position a fan over the component side of the ZVS.

Here is an 'artists rendition' of how I set mine up:

 

[Bradv86]

I sure like the looks of this. My 1" copper flat bar has already shipped. I would ask though; did you thread the holes in the long block and use short screws to secure everything or did you bore a hole completely through both pieces and use longer bolts with nuts that pass through entire length?

I drilled and tapped everything, but if I was to do it again I would probably drill through fully. The center board screw I would still drill and tap.

I only have a drill press and Dremel, so going that deep in gummy material is difficult.

 

[mcfred]

Pushing hundreds of amps through thin PCB traces does not seem ideal to me. I think this design from that thread I posted earlier is a good way to do it:

This is basically the same circuit as the chineez "ZVS" boards, but re-arranged such that, to the extent possible, the power components are cooled by water. For example, the capacitors are soldered directly to the copper pipe filled with water. There is also a fan blowing across them with a gap between to actually allow air to get through. It's nice that the fan doesn't blow smoke in your face as the powder residue/lube/whatever cooks off the brass.

2¢

 

[BrassWhole]

Electrically not connected yet, have the basic machine sitting in top on my Dillon XL650.

Some items sourced used, or open box from e-bay. I have a buddy that's going to help me get the plug wired for the power supply, currently at a stopping point until after July 4th.

The plan is to universal deprime, and anneal on one pass (the first pass) before tumbling fired brass.

 

[Sniper 78]

Guys... Years of discussions, 16 pages of comments and it exists this... Video on you tube on how it works paired with a timer switch. 200 bucks..

 

[swamper2]

Guys... Years of discussions, 16 pages of comments and it exists this... Video on you tube on how it works paired with a timer switch. 200 bucks..

I have been using this for 3 years now. I have mine on a timer and rotated my coil so the cartriges can sit upright in a wood block (5 at a time). Much better than the hand torch method.

 

[Sniper 78]

I have been using this for 3 years now. I have mine on a timer and rotated my coil so the cartriges can sit upright in a wood block (5 at a time). Much better than the hand torch method.

Hei... I have the same one but I can't get it to work with the timer... Mine is the model that once pluged, the fan starts and keeps on going non stop. If i wire the timer (intercepting the negativ) it doesn't do anything. The timer functions but has no effect on the annealing process. I still have to manul push the button and all..

 

[swamper2]

Hei... I have the same one but I can't get it to work with the timer... Mine is the model that once pluged, the fan starts and keeps on going non stop. If i wire the timer (intercepting the negativ) it doesn't do anything. The timer functions but has no effect on the annealing process. I still have to manul push the button and all..

Right. My fan run's continuously which it should ,to keep it cool. i have a 5 second delay between cases before the next heat cycle which i have to trigger for the heat. Depending on the case mfg either 3.5 seconds or 5 and the ambiant temp. All good

 

[Sniper 78]

Right. My fan run's continuously which it should ,to keep it cool. i have a 5 second delay between cases before the next heat cycle which i have to trigger for the heat. Depending on the case mfg either 3.5 seconds or 5 and the ambiant temp. All good

Can I ask you how exactly have you wired the timer? If it's not too much trouble can you send me some photo? I can't get it right... Thank you

 

[LMTMWS]

I have been using this for 3 years now. I have mine on a timer and rotated my coil so the cartriges can sit upright in a wood block (5 at a time). Much better than the hand torch method.

This exact one? How much have you used it in the 3 years?

 

[swamper2]

This exact one? How much have you used it in the 3 years?

Maybe 4-500,, 22-250

 

[swamper2]

Can I ask you how exactly have you wired the timer? If it's not too much trouble can you send me some photo? I can't get it right... Thank you

Can I ask you how exactly have you wired the timer? If it's not too much trouble can you send me some photo? I can't get it right... Thank you

 

[swamper2]

There you go

 

[Sniper 78]

There you go

Thank you ok... So you connected the negative of the annealer to the negative from the socket ;the positive of the socket to the timer and the positive of the annealer to the timer right? What I don't understand is where have you connected the push button... You've said that the fan runs continuously like mine and the timer manages the annealing function intercepting the push button... How? Where did you go with the 2 push button wires?

 

[swamper2]

Thank you ok... So you connected the negative of the annealer to the negative from the socket ;the positive of the socket to the timer and the positive of the annealer to the timer right? What I don't understand is where have you connected the push button... You've said that the fan runs continuously like mine and the timer manages the annealing function intercepting the push button... How? Where did you go with the 2 push button wires?

Thank you ok... So you connected the negative of the annealer to the negative from the socket ;the positive of the socket to the timer and the positive of the annealer to the timer right? What I don't understand is where have you connected the push button... You've said that the fan runs continuously like mine and the timer manages the annealing function intercepting the push button... How? Where did you go with the 2 push button wires?

Just hold the button on the unit and it will start when the timer activates the output. I have a 5 second off time to move to my next cartridge that is in my 5 station holder. Also I misspoke about the fan staying on all the time. It start s when the timer activates and you have to have the button pressed to anneal.

 

[Sniper 78]

Just hold the button on the unit and it will start when the timer activates the output. I have a 5 second off time to move to my next cartridge that is in my 5 station holder. Also I misspoke about the fan staying on all the time. It start s when the timer activates and you have to have the button pressed to anneal.

Thank you . I thought that you managed to wire the button directly into the timer so it wouldnt be necesary to hold it. I just bought mine and the fan keeps on going once plugged.. Maybe its the updated version... But did I understand corectly the wireing procedure? Negativ from socket to negativ annealer and positive from socket and positive annealer to timer? It's correct?

 

[swamper2]

Thank you . I thought that you managed to wire the button directly into the timer so it wouldnt be necesary to hold it. I just bought mine and the fan keeps on going once plugged.. Maybe its the updated version... But did I understand corectly the wireing procedure? Negativ from socket to negativ annealer and positive from socket and positive annealer to timer? It's correct?

Just wire up a socket to the output side to plug your hot rod into and run hot and neutral to the input. Then program the controller.

 

[Sniper 78]

Just wire up a socket to the output side to plug your hot rod into and run hot and neutral to the input. Then program the controller.

Thanx

 

[swamper2]

Thanx

 

[Sniper 78]

Exactly my setup wooden board with holes in it. Tecnological as f**k . Works best for me. Wait... Your timer is powered via 220V? It's not DC 5-30 powered via dc adapter?

 

[swamper2]

Exactly my setup wooden board with holes in it. Tecnological as f**k . Works best for me. Wait... Your timer is powered via 220V? It's not DC 5-30 powered via dc adapter?

120v

 

[swamper2]

120v

 

[Sniper 78]

120v

Yeah 120 not 220 . Mine is dc... I have to power it with an phone charger at 5 V

120v

Yeah 120 not 220 . Mine is DC... have to power it with a phone charger...

 

[swamper2]

Yeah 120 not 220 . Mine is dc... I have to power it with an phone charger at 5 V

Yeah 120 not 220 . Mine is DC... have to power it with a phone charger...

Yes. Different controller. I also give my hot rod a break after like 50 cases and just plug it it to constant power to let it cool down. Not sure on the duty cycle but why cook it.

 

[Sniper 78]

Yes. Different controller. I also give my hot rod a break after like 50 cases and just plug it it to constant power to let it cool down. Not sure on the duty cycle but why cook it.

I do the same pretty much. I don't think that it's a problem if used for more than 50 cases at a time but why risk it. On you tube they say that they use it with no problems for much longer but... I'm not a competitive shooter, I don't have to prepare 4-500 rounds at a time. I do 50-70 rounds than I give it a break

 

[swamper2]

I do the same pretty much. I don't think that it's a problem if used for more than 50 cases at a time but why risk it. On you tube they say that they use it with no problems for much longer but... I'm not a competitive shooter, I don't have to prepare 4-500 rounds at a time. I do 50-70 rounds than I give it a break

I'll FL size while it's cooling to use the time up.

 

[swamper2]

I do the same pretty much. I don't think that it's a problem if used for more than 50 cases at a time but why risk it. On you tube they say that they use it with no problems for much longer but... I'm not a competitive shooter, I don't have to prepare 4-500 rounds at a time. I do 50-70 rounds than I give it a break

What caliber are you doing and how much time are you using.

 

[LMTMWS]

Just wire up a socket to the output side to plug your hot rod into and run hot and neutral to the input. Then program the controller.

Maybe open it up and wire to the red activation button so the fan remains running the whole time? I do t have one yet but I may try that.

 

[BrassWhole]

I could use a little word of encouragement. First off, I don't see how at this point in my build this would work. Looks like a direct short waiting to happen. I am trying to build this as a stand alone unit that will mount on top my Dillon XL650. It looks pretty, but in not convinced it will work as is. Here's a few pictures. Fans run constantly as I wired them separately in parallel to a USB. Well that's update from one month ago. Have not wired the timer, or DC power supply connections yet.

1. Copper coil very close to the tool head I had built for this project. Even then the aluminum plate everything is mounted to would need opened up in the area of the coil to keep a direct short from occurring with the nearby copper coil. Might have to go non-electrical conductive on that tool head. What do you think?

 

[swamper2]

I think a stand alone annealing proecess is what i would do.Less complicated than trying to intrigate into the dillon system.

 

[hdmunger]

What always strikes me when I look at your setup, is that the proximity of the coil to the large aluminum tool head might potentially cause issues with heat build up in the tool head itself (as well as excessively long heating times with the amount of energy being dumped into the tool head instead of just the brass case). I know aluminum is not a ferrite metal, but neither is brass and heating up the brass is the primary goal of this mechanism.

You mentioned maybe using a non-conductive tool head (3-D printed?) and that might be a solution...

 

[The_Steward]

I have made a video looking at the Annie Annealer by Fluxeon, which may be useful as a reference for someone looking to DIY their own annealer. I traced most of the circuit out, and the schematic link is below. The tricky part for their system would be sourcing the transformer core. You could actually make your own Litz wire and wind it yourself. Otherwise, you'll see plenty of similarities to other DIY Royer circuits. I thought there were some weird build quality issues, but it certainly works.

https://github.com/techdregs/Annie_Anenealer

 

[Edsel]

Tagged for reference…

Need to read through all these pages.

 

[7mm-08 Freak]

I gave up on building one. I just bought this and it works fine. The duty cycle is not the greatest but it works.

https://a.co/d/7ay6mbz

 

[Edsel]

I gave up on building one. I just bought this and it works fine. The duty cycle is not the greatest but it works.

https://a.co/d/7ay6mbz

I wonder...

Can this be used for muzzle devices?

 

[7mm-08 Freak]

I wonder...

Can this be used for muzzle devices?

Those induction coils are easy to build out of solid copper wire. You can build whatever diameter you want and it came with several to boot, so I’m sure it could. If you need something hot that thing will do it.

 

[kennyg]

I gave up on building one. I just bought this and it works fine. The duty cycle is not the greatest but it works.

https://a.co/d/7ay6mbz

does that thing have a timer on it, or how do you get it consistent from one case to the next

 

[7mm-08 Freak]

does that thing have a timer on it, or how do you get it consistent from one case to the next

No timer just a good eye..A timer would be easy to make on the AC coming in but I just watch the case for the right color. It takes a few to get the hang of it on some junk brass

 

[johny69]

I built mine my 1st zvs board was bad right out of the gate. It burned up a couple other c

What do you mean "trips the Arduino overcurrent sensor"? If it's the one in the MGNZ code, using the current sensor they recommend? That shouldn't trigger that low, but regardless, you can edit the code and raise the current limit if you need.

Checking the SSR is a good idea. Those can be junk.

Lastly, you may need shielding. I'm fighting an inductive noise problem right now in my setup that causes my arduino to freak out and reset. Consider shielding the control board, and putting chokes on various long wires to dampen the EMF in the circuits. The noise coming out of the inductive circuit might inulduce voltage who knows where, and with all the digital signals going to servos, displays, etc stuff can get messed up. Doesn't take much either since everything is usually 5v max on the control side.

Hi! Did you manage to solve the restarting of the Cortrol board (i presume you are using the arduino and MGNZ board). I am having the same issue and looking for ways to solve this..

 

[JBarton]

How many per hour can you anneal, I'm looking to add water cooling hoping to speed up my hourly numbers.

Sorry I have not been on here much. I could run 5 plus a minute with water cooling. Never had it get hot except when my water pump quite working. I ran a small heat exchanger with a computer fan pulling air from inside the cabinet out across the exchanger. I ended up upgrading to an AMP this summer and sent my annealing unit to my brother in Colorado. I will admit my homemade unit was easier to feed and quite a bit faster. The AMP is all manual where the unit i built was setup with a case eject.

 

[The_Steward]

Hi! Did you manage to solve the restarting of the Cortrol board (i presume you are using the arduino and MGNZ board). I am having the same issue and looking for ways to solve this..

Yes, I had to move the cable for the display. That's what was causing my issues.

 

[johny69]

I could use a little word of encouragement. First off, I don't see how at this point in my build this would work. Looks like a direct short waiting to happen. I am trying to build this as a stand alone unit that will mount on top my Dillon XL650. It looks pretty, but in not convinced it will work as is. Here's a few pictures. Fans run constantly as I wired them separately in parallel to a USB. Well that's update from one month ago. Have not wired the timer, or DC power supply connections yet.

1. Copper coil very close to the tool head I had built for this project. Even then the aluminum plate everything is mounted to would need opened up in the area of the coil to keep a direct short from occurring with the nearby copper coil. Might have to go non-electrical conductive on that tool head. What do you think?

If its encouragement youre looking for, then go for it! After completing my automated unit, I think you will be better off building a standalone machine for annelíng than integrating it into the press. but if you really want to go for it: I would also be worried about the aluminium tool head. Maybe get it machine from delrin, or 3D print from some high temp material. Also, the coil can be covered with fiberglass sleeving (very cheap from ali express) which should resolve the potential shorts you are worried about.

 

[The_Steward]

I could use a little word of encouragement. First off, I don't see how at this point in my build this would work. Looks like a direct short waiting to happen. I am trying to build this as a stand alone unit that will mount on top my Dillon XL650. It looks pretty, but in not convinced it will work as is. Here's a few pictures. Fans run constantly as I wired them separately in parallel to a USB. Well that's update from one month ago. Have not wired the timer, or DC power supply connections yet.

1. Copper coil very close to the tool head I had built for this project. Even then the aluminum plate everything is mounted to would need opened up in the area of the coil to keep a direct short from occurring with the nearby copper coil. Might have to go non-electrical conductive on that tool head. What do you think?

You should remake your coil without the piece hanging down. Then it should have clearance to the top of the toolhead. Something like this: