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Night Vision IRay RH25 Micro video/picture thread
- Thread starter Surgeon_Shooter
- Start date
Do you mind checking all the reticle zero options and zoom feature and report back if you find any bugs?
I’m curious if the update causes issues, as it did for myself and at least one other person.
message me details on what to check and I’ll do this for you since you’ve put out so much good info on this unit (thanks).
Pouch for RH25
Anybody find a perfect pouch for RH25? I want something that can easily belt mount and MOLLE mount and has minimal bulk but ideally some protection/padding.
Here’s the best mounting solution I could figure for Clip-on in front of EOTech/Magnifier on Unity 2.26” mounts.
Is there a better solution?
I used a kinetic development group sidelok riser (0.62” riser) below the RH25 ADM mount.
Fit without a single rail slot to spare (LMT 9.25” MLok rail/monolithic upper)!
it’s usable but its obvious an LPVO would be better.
Is there a better solution?
I used a kinetic development group sidelok riser (0.62” riser) below the RH25 ADM mount.
Fit without a single rail slot to spare (LMT 9.25” MLok rail/monolithic upper)!
it’s usable but its obvious an LPVO would be better.
Exactly… I want a MOLLE pouch that fits the RH25 or PVS-14 so I can swap units and stuff from running dual -14s to dual band. Maybe like 1/4-3/8” padding with a stiffening liner. And snap or buckle closure.
@thorium
Bobro double decker is just long enough to hold an EXPS & RH25 and lines up awesome with a 2.6” Unity FTC magnifier mount. It fits an AR15 upper with the Unity magnifier and no slots to spare. The Bobro DD is technically 0.625” instead of the 0.665” on the Unity riser, but since the EXPS is notably taller than most every other “lower-1/3” optic it’s a perfect match. The EXPS+DD is ~2.31” to the window center and the RH25+DD is 2.24” to the ocular center… so within about 1mm of being perfect for a 2.26” magnifier.
You might be tempted to use a LT-101 5/8” riser because it’s cheaper, QD, and has lugs… but it’s not long enough. It got 2 fewer slots than the Bobro so the EXPS and/or RH25 hangs off the end(s) of the rail.
It’s very clean and purposeful looking and puts everything on the receiver so there’s no rail flex to worry about messing with zeros. I’d like to switch to a newer-style compact magnifier because mine hangs off a good bit, but the PA Gen IV LER 3X magnifier is pretty hard to beat for $99. It’s worth noting the Bobro Double Decker lacks true recoil lugs on its underside… then again it’s got 4 screws. It just seemed like a pretty basic design oversight (or lazy) for not a cheap part. But I’m not worried because once torqued properly it’s not going anywhere with just AR15 recoil.
Excuse the blurry scope view, the camera was focusing on the eyepiece. It’s really crisp an you can even see the tree bark clearly with your eyes.
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Thinking about buying one of these as a clip-on in front of a LPVO.
I have a VX6HD with the cds-zl and a burris 1-8 XTR II with the mad turrets so that I can dial but I'm thinking about getting a vudu 1-10 since it also had expose turrets with zero lock.
Would it really make a difference to go to a 10x top end behind the RH25 or not really since it'll be blurry past 4x anyways ?
I have a VX6HD with the cds-zl and a burris 1-8 XTR II with the mad turrets so that I can dial but I'm thinking about getting a vudu 1-10 since it also had expose turrets with zero lock.
Would it really make a difference to go to a 10x top end behind the RH25 or not really since it'll be blurry past 4x anyways ?
Sounds good. I might just keep my VX6HD then since it’s pretty flat, light weight and has 120ft FOV at 1x.
I’ll get a Vudu 1-10 down the road for sure
Is is really that blurry past 4x ? Like I understand that you’re zooming on pixels and that it gets pretty dark past 4-5x on a 24-28mm tube but I thought you could still shoot at like 8x, just that’s it’s blurry. Is it truly unusable ?
I've used it on 10x at 500 more than a few times but your shooting at minecraft animals lol
it's half the price 4 times the size but certainly is amazing for the price!
There's a yoterC from a reputable seller for 3.5k in the for sale section. A little bigger than the rh25 but weight is similar.
Unfortunately I can re-produce the same issues with the hard freeze and reticle not showing... seems like IRay has a bug to fix.
To re-produce: Enable stand-alone mode, go set yardage in reticle zero, power off, power back on. Reticle not showing after powered back on even though reticle is enabled in menus and should show. Went back to the reticle zero menu, and unit hard freezes (only pulling battery will do anything)
I got a couple pouches to try and the Maxpedition PUP (phone utility pouch) is working pretty well for me (~$30 on amazon).
The RH25 fits snugly, the main pocket has a small amount of padding, the outer pocket (designed for a smart phone) works to store my MDQ (pic mount) and an extra 18650 battery.
I also tried a Maxpedition MPP (medium padded pouch). I use that pouch for binocular night vision (DTNVS) which will barely fit into MPP. Its a big too big for RH25, it will move around a bit. But if you wanted more stuff than just the RH25 in the main pocket its an option.
Maxpedition PUP Pouch w/ RH25 in it and nothing in front (phone) pocket. MQD mount for size reference.
MQD (clip-on picatinny mount) & extra 18650 in front phone pocket
RH25 fits good won't flop around.
You can fit it with rubber eye piece, but the rubber eye piece will get squashed in so you wouldn't want to store it that way long term.
Did some RH25 shooting. 12” popper sitting at 200yd. The 3X magnifier through EOtech works much better than expected. Great in fact.
RH25+EXPS3
Bobro Double Decker Riser
3X Mag on Unity Mount
RH25+EXPS3
Bobro Double Decker Riser
3X Mag on Unity Mount
I have no complaints out of mine. Works great as a standalone weapon sight and even better in front of a Nightforce 1-8. Using the illumination on the scope reticle is perfect. I have a helmet mounted MH25 on a bridge with a PVS 14 and really think the MH25 image is better.
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Currently have the RH25 for evaluation through the weekend. Definitely having some trouble getting the clarity that I see you guys are getting.. I'm running it in front of a 1-10 Razor and 3x Aimpoint magnifier through a T2. Might I have to adjust something in Clip On mode? Brightness or contrast setting?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Need to decide this weekend if she stays or if she goes.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Need to decide this weekend if she stays or if she goes.
Firstly you’ll have to have your scope diopter set for what your eyes need. Also keep in mind you have a 1-10x… you really start to feel the pixels around ~4x and by 5x/6x I don’t think you’re getting much more if anything from extra magnification. To leverage 10x you’d need a clip on that offers significantly higher pixel density (like a C35 or something) at the expense of FOV. That being said, an FFP 8x or 10x LPVO is just fine because you’ll get the full range in the daytime and then when you limit mag with the clip on the FFP holds true. For my SFP 1-6x razor if I want to use the BDC I have to tolerate pixelation - which isn’t unusable at 6X but the clarity is well past gone away.
Next make sure the diopter ON THE THERMAL is set correctly. If you have imperfect vision and use the RH25 eyepiece to correct it when using the thermal handheld or helmet mode… don’t use that ocular setting. There is a white dot and and arrow on the eyepiece ring of the RH25 that should line up (or be petty damn close to perfect) for focusing the eyepiece for scopes. When it is dialed in just right, the image will be sharp AND parallax free. When it’s off even a little, it’ll be sharp but you’ll see a small bit of parallax shift between the scope reticle and the screen image/pixels when you move your head around behind the scope. For lack of a better way to put this… the RH25 diopter is essentially putting the LCD screen at the scope’s focal distance. I like to open the menu of the thermal and stare zoomed-in at those pixels/icons at like 6X and move my head around while fine tuning the RH25 diopter until no shift is observable… bingo… that’s your ocular setting for that scope. I marked my eyepiece with sharpie for both “eyeball” and “scope” positions so when I pop it on and off the gun I can just twist the eyepiece and be set.
I also wrote the XY offsets on a sticker on the side of he unit for my clipon zero and my “fusion” settings to align the image with a PVS-14. I run my RH25 in a bridge with a PVS-14 and if you want to align the RH and PVS images, your eyes might need the image shifted or you’ll see double. If you don’t plan on bridging it with a PVS, don worry about that multiple XY offsets crap.
Lastly, like any night optic, it does not have a large depth of field. Just like a PVS14 you have to notably change the objective focus for arms length vs room vs 25yd vs 100+ yard things. Also very important to note… when you “zero” the X/Y offset scope in clip-on mode or reticle stand-alone mode, that digital zero setting only holds true FOR THE OBJECTIVE LENS POSITION IT’S IN. It’s helpful to put something like a flip cap (30mm) on the objective that repeatably indexes the position against the battery door for repeatably setting your focus to it’s “zeroed position”. iRay is aware of this (so it’s not a “defect”… but rather more a shortcoming) and has an objective cattail throw lever that works well for indexing your objective. So yes, if you zero the X/Y offset or reticle at like 200yd focused sharply and then resharpen up the focal distance to shoot something like 10yds away it will shift the zero … on mine a focus ring rotation of 120 degrees shifts my POI about 6 MOA to the 5:30 position. It’s repeatable and can be worked around as long as you police your focus distance repeatably. Best to just leave it at your zero-focus at zero distance and shoot really close things with it a tad bit fuzzy.
Hope all that helps. It should be pretty darn clear though. With my 6X razor I can see tree bark pattern at ~100yds.
See images below of the cattail indexed to its zero position, the “scope” ocular zero position, and the diopter setting markings for my shitty eyeballs.
Next make sure the diopter ON THE THERMAL is set correctly. If you have imperfect vision and use the RH25 eyepiece to correct it when using the thermal handheld or helmet mode… don’t use that ocular setting. There is a white dot and and arrow on the eyepiece ring of the RH25 that should line up (or be petty damn close to perfect) for focusing the eyepiece for scopes. When it is dialed in just right, the image will be sharp AND parallax free. When it’s off even a little, it’ll be sharp but you’ll see a small bit of parallax shift between the scope reticle and the screen image/pixels when you move your head around behind the scope. For lack of a better way to put this… the RH25 diopter is essentially putting the LCD screen at the scope’s focal distance. I like to open the menu of the thermal and stare zoomed-in at those pixels/icons at like 6X and move my head around while fine tuning the RH25 diopter until no shift is observable… bingo… that’s your ocular setting for that scope. I marked my eyepiece with sharpie for both “eyeball” and “scope” positions so when I pop it on and off the gun I can just twist the eyepiece and be set.
I also wrote the XY offsets on a sticker on the side of he unit for my clipon zero and my “fusion” settings to align the image with a PVS-14. I run my RH25 in a bridge with a PVS-14 and if you want to align the RH and PVS images, your eyes might need the image shifted or you’ll see double. If you don’t plan on bridging it with a PVS, don worry about that multiple XY offsets crap.
Lastly, like any night optic, it does not have a large depth of field. Just like a PVS14 you have to notably change the objective focus for arms length vs room vs 25yd vs 100+ yard things. Also very important to note… when you “zero” the X/Y offset scope in clip-on mode or reticle stand-alone mode, that digital zero setting only holds true FOR THE OBJECTIVE LENS POSITION IT’S IN. It’s helpful to put something like a flip cap (30mm) on the objective that repeatably indexes the position against the battery door for repeatably setting your focus to it’s “zeroed position”. iRay is aware of this (so it’s not a “defect”… but rather more a shortcoming) and has an objective cattail throw lever that works well for indexing your objective. So yes, if you zero the X/Y offset or reticle at like 200yd focused sharply and then resharpen up the focal distance to shoot something like 10yds away it will shift the zero … on mine a focus ring rotation of 120 degrees shifts my POI about 6 MOA to the 5:30 position. It’s repeatable and can be worked around as long as you police your focus distance repeatably. Best to just leave it at your zero-focus at zero distance and shoot really close things with it a tad bit fuzzy.
Hope all that helps. It should be pretty darn clear though. With my 6X razor I can see tree bark pattern at ~100yds.
See images below of the cattail indexed to its zero position, the “scope” ocular zero position, and the diopter setting markings for my shitty eyeballs.
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Joey I truly appreciate the support and direction. Let me get behind it this evening and tomorrow during the day so I can see what is actually going on. As a NVG dude its a bit of a strange concept that I can use/do this during the day.
I will work it step by step as outlined and report back. If anyone else has anything to share please do. Thermal is totally new to me. My primary use will not be hunting but rather more detection and then having the ability to sight and fire. I think that is what is most appealing to me that this unit can fill more roles knowing that it might come at some cost to dedicated performance.
I will work it step by step as outlined and report back. If anyone else has anything to share please do. Thermal is totally new to me. My primary use will not be hunting but rather more detection and then having the ability to sight and fire. I think that is what is most appealing to me that this unit can fill more roles knowing that it might come at some cost to dedicated performance.
Is everyone experiencing such bad POI shift when changing the focus on the RH25? If so that sounds like such a huge issue to me. No one wants to spend 6k on an optic that everything has to be slightly fuzzy all the time unless you get lucky and a hog happens to wander out exactly 100 yards from you.
I attached some photos of targets ranging from 25 yards to 125 yards. Photos are very difficult to get through my scope, so please trust that they look better in person.
I have found that the depth of field/focus on this unit is incredibly forgiving. I should also mention that I’ve had three, and all three were the same.
From messing around with different focus settings and distances… I’ve found that if you use a laser rangefinder and find something 350 yards away, set your RH25 focus to that 350 yard distance. Then everything just beyond 350 yards all the way in to 10 yards will be in focus, or very close to it.
And if you use a focus stop (which I deem mandatory for my own usage) you can always repeat your focus setting. I recommend a 02a buttler creek cap for this. My last photo shows the stop point of contact between the Buttler creek cap and the battery cap. -Bonus, you get to protect your expensive Germanium lens when not in use.
Also, read Joeymac’s post above if you haven’t already. Few could explain it better.
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CQ,
Some have it… some dont (or at least not bad enough to notice). Mine seems to be one of the more affected. A couple pages back I put it on 3 rifles and got about a 6MOA shift on each at the limits of focus range for shooting at hand warmers.
I called iRay and spoke to a couple people and they consider this “expected”. Given that some people have the issue and some don’t, the issue is likely a non perfect objective lens mounting (focus ring pitch axis not collinear with optical axis) stemming manufacturing or design inconsistency issue. When the focus ring is turned and the lens spins the focal point is wandering on the sensor array.
It is repeatable so a focus lever or scope cap can be used to mitigate the shift and the depth of field is big enough that targets well away from the focal plane are not too bad at all with it… so it’s more of a minor functional issue… but you’re right, a 6k optic with such a rudimentary issue is a bit offputting. But I can live with it for the price difference this thing has vs something else that’s an effective 1X 640px MHT/WMT/Clipon.
Pneumagger
Sr. Opto-Mechanical Engineer
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Haha hey man long time. Agree I’d be annoyed with that issue at its price point but it’s good there is an inexpensive workaround. There’s nothing else in its price range that can do all three roles. I’m saving for a Voodoo-S eventually but gotta finish this new NV Bino build first.
I have used mine out to a shade over 500yd. That said I also use the 02a BC cap to "set" my focus. If you are using it past 25yd or so, everything will look great out too 500yd (aside from using higher magnification which it wasn't made for).
Let me make sure I understand, because there are two ways to mess with X/Y coordinates on these units. I understand you're saying this zero shift issue affects the RH25 when it's being used as a clip-on and the X/Y collimation adjustment is used, but reticle standalone mode uses the zeroing profiles and distances and such, and has its own set of X/Y coordinate adjustments. Are you saying the POI of that second set of coordinates is also shifted by adjusting the objective focus, i.e. when the scope is being used by itself as a TWS the objective focus cannot be adjusted without changing the POI?
Interesting question / concept here
I think the answer is mechanical issue vs software issue though (disclaimer: I don't own this unit so I'm speaking from experience with others and assumptions as to the units construction)
If the objective lens is what is moving the zero this would appear to be a mechanical issue / failure
This should affect all "Zeros" saved in the device
Because the device is looking through this lens that is skewing its view as you turn it
I'd doubt the the device has anything like an encoder to monitor position of the objective focus
If it did... then software could be used to skew zero according to position to compensate for the mechanical issue on the objective lens though.
So this could get really interesting if that's an option hidden within the software
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I was also curious and took the plunge. No doubt a BIG decision. I was looking to fill a gap that night vision couldn't fill. The RH25 checked all the boxes for me in that I could use it as a handheld, helmet mount and clip on. I will not use the unit as a dedicated thermal optic on a rifle as I just don't have that need and if I did there are much better options. Special shout out to French1966 for helping me understand this unit much better.
I have shot it on two differently configured AR's and I'm very pleased with the results. Got lucky in that I didn't have to adjust the margins that much and that adjustment will work well enough for both rifles. Zeroed during the day and was holding less than 3" groups on both at 100 yds. That's more than acceptable to me seeing I just cant aim any better with 3x.
Currently set up to run the RH25 in front of an Aimpoint T2 on UNITY Micro Mount with 3x magnifier mounted in UNITY AP Mag Mount. The unit aligns perfectly sitting on top of a UNITY Riser along with the ADM Mount. Also set up to run it in front of a Vortex Razor 1-10x.
I will be at the East Coast Night Shoot this weekend and if your interested in seeing PM me and we can try and make that happen.
I have shot it on two differently configured AR's and I'm very pleased with the results. Got lucky in that I didn't have to adjust the margins that much and that adjustment will work well enough for both rifles. Zeroed during the day and was holding less than 3" groups on both at 100 yds. That's more than acceptable to me seeing I just cant aim any better with 3x.
Currently set up to run the RH25 in front of an Aimpoint T2 on UNITY Micro Mount with 3x magnifier mounted in UNITY AP Mag Mount. The unit aligns perfectly sitting on top of a UNITY Riser along with the ADM Mount. Also set up to run it in front of a Vortex Razor 1-10x.
I will be at the East Coast Night Shoot this weekend and if your interested in seeing PM me and we can try and make that happen.
Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm having the exact same issues with mine now, but one step further. I have a .mp4 on the unit but it doesn't show up at all on the app (same computer issue with it not being able to be found)
EDIT: I found the solution. Just reset the settings using the #11 icon in the advanced menu.
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The "solution" for me was to just disconnect and connect a thousand times, and then it finally loaded. The software is janky as fuck.
Does anyone have any pics of their RH25 in front of a 1.93" height scope? All of my optics are this height and I'm trying to figure out how to do that. It seems that I can maybe use the (included?) recoil-dampening mount to get that height, but I'm not sure if that keeps the unit "quick detach" or not and if I need to buy one for each gun.
Thanks for the BoBro info for using an Eotech with the RH25. It obviously doesn't like to line up.
Didn't do the math but figured you'd know. Is the GBRS Mount identical to the BB Double Decker? If so, I have an alternative I won't mention.
By playing around with things on both rifles I was able to line it up with a Sig Tango adequately though.
Didn't do the math but figured you'd know. Is the GBRS Mount identical to the BB Double Decker? If so, I have an alternative I won't mention.
By playing around with things on both rifles I was able to line it up with a Sig Tango adequately though.
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Thinking about getting one. I need some help though. Does anyone have any experience using the unity tactical lpvo mount with a razor 1-6? Wondering if I could maybe get by with using the ADM mount but going from a 2.04 optics mount to the thermal being at 1.54 seems like kind of stretch. Let me know what you guys think
I’m pretty sure a unity Eotech riser could be used to get a RH25 up to a tall mounted LPVO (roughly 2.24 for thermal, 2.05 for scope using unity mount). I would have to look around at listed height measurements online to confirm but I’m too lazy to do that for you. So let us know how it goes
In the meantime, feast your eyes on this Wilcox Oasys mounted RH25. I recently modified my pictail for it. While the ADM is a solid product, I find the Oasys mount to be light years better for my uses:
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When I saw that rifle I immediately knew who's it was!
Your ARF posts on this mount are very intriguing Frenchie. I'd like to get my hands on one of those flip mounts to try on my rifle above. If I find one at a low price point, or second hand it would make my day. You always get your setups looking both sharp and functional buddy. Kudos...........
Any chance you can drop a link to that Oasys, or is that verbotten?
Both you and JoeyMac have some killer setups and sure know your shit when it comes to the RH!
Your ARF posts on this mount are very intriguing Frenchie. I'd like to get my hands on one of those flip mounts to try on my rifle above. If I find one at a low price point, or second hand it would make my day. You always get your setups looking both sharp and functional buddy. Kudos...........
Any chance you can drop a link to that Oasys, or is that verbotten?
Both you and JoeyMac have some killer setups and sure know your shit when it comes to the RH!
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When you say you modified the pictail to work with the Oasys mount, you mean you widened the gap between the dovetail shoe and the Picatinny rail section so that the Oasys mechanism fits in there? Can you post a picture to show how much material had to be removed? Is the Picatinny portion still usable? I'm currently working on a pictail design that ideally incorporates this compatibility.
I didnt retain the pic raíl section because I no longer need it.
But I do know someone who made it work (allowing ADM & Wilcox mounts to be used). Photo below
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This will be a cringy question for the guys that have even a lick of knowledge on the subject. But I just picked up an RH25 off here so I have no previous knowledge on helmet mounts, like none at all.
Looking to pick up a bump helmet and run the RH25 in front of my left eye as a hands free scanner while coyote hunting (tell me otherwise, but I thought having it on my left eye would let me shoot still without flipping it out of the way).
My question is, would only a Wilcox 24 alone allow me do use it in front of my left eye or is there another piece I’d need between the Wilcox and the RH25? Currently have the Pictail mount so that part is taken care of.
Looking to pick up a bump helmet and run the RH25 in front of my left eye as a hands free scanner while coyote hunting (tell me otherwise, but I thought having it on my left eye would let me shoot still without flipping it out of the way).
My question is, would only a Wilcox 24 alone allow me do use it in front of my left eye or is there another piece I’d need between the Wilcox and the RH25? Currently have the Pictail mount so that part is taken care of.
My experience with running a PVS-14 on my left eye is that I can NOT shoot without moving it out of the way. I would expect it to be the same for you, but it depends a bit on what you are using for a rifle optic.
You do need a piece between the helmet mount and the pic tail. The mount is centered on the helmet, so you need something (either a dovetail bridge mount or a specialized j-arm that accepts dovetail on both ends) that will move the optic L or R to be in front of the eye.
If you ever plan to get a second unit such as a pvs14 for the other eye, I recommend buy the bridge now. I have the mod armory D14 and really like it. Allows me to just swing the optic out to the side instead of lifting the whole thing up.
If this will always be your only device, then I’d like for a j-arm that accepts dovetail on both ends. Someone else can probably suggest a specific one, I’ve never owned one of those.
You do need a piece between the helmet mount and the pic tail. The mount is centered on the helmet, so you need something (either a dovetail bridge mount or a specialized j-arm that accepts dovetail on both ends) that will move the optic L or R to be in front of the eye.
If you ever plan to get a second unit such as a pvs14 for the other eye, I recommend buy the bridge now. I have the mod armory D14 and really like it. Allows me to just swing the optic out to the side instead of lifting the whole thing up.
If this will always be your only device, then I’d like for a j-arm that accepts dovetail on both ends. Someone else can probably suggest a specific one, I’ve never owned one of those.
Hello, everyone!
I bought a Falcon 640 in Canada, and after reading the document about the firmware update in their store, I decided to do it. After searching the firmware, I found version: 1019900136_RH25_20220418_0108LowDelay.img
and installed it; it was a big mistake because I caught all the same bugs as French1966 described in this thread.
My scope turned into a brick because I could not use the reticle((((
The zoom is just as glitchy as French1966's
Please tell me if anyone here has a newer firmware file than 1019900136_RH25_20220418_0108LowDelay.img ?????
I was hoping that this firmware would fix the jello effect, but it didn't go anywhere and added a bunch of critical bugs with the grid((((
I bought a Falcon 640 in Canada, and after reading the document about the firmware update in their store, I decided to do it. After searching the firmware, I found version: 1019900136_RH25_20220418_0108LowDelay.img
and installed it; it was a big mistake because I caught all the same bugs as French1966 described in this thread.
My scope turned into a brick because I could not use the reticle((((
The zoom is just as glitchy as French1966's
Please tell me if anyone here has a newer firmware file than 1019900136_RH25_20220418_0108LowDelay.img ?????
I was hoping that this firmware would fix the jello effect, but it didn't go anywhere and added a bunch of critical bugs with the grid((((
Someone with some influence really needs to convince them to push a newer firmware with bug fixes. Critical things like described above need to work properly, and small stuff like settings not being saved after power cycle are also annoying. I have to turn off the damn compass every time I power on the unit, it sucks.
I wanted to tell you how I solved the problems of the buggy firmware; I contacted infiray.ca
They sent me a different firmware file, I installed it, and everything worked fine (but the jello effect, unfortunately, did not disappear. Apparently, this is a hardware problem and not software)
If anyone encounters such a problem, contact the manufacturer, I was given the correct firmware without too many problems.
They sent me a different firmware file, I installed it, and everything worked fine (but the jello effect, unfortunately, did not disappear. Apparently, this is a hardware problem and not software)
If anyone encounters such a problem, contact the manufacturer, I was given the correct firmware without too many problems.
I've designed some pictail alternatives in CAD if anyone is interested. They have not been prototyped with a 3D printed version, I will do that in the next few weeks. So currently a few things are still not perfect:
- can't guarantee that the dovetail locks into place properly
- not sure about the height of the optical axis
But if some people want to try them out, feel free to let me know. For example, here is a version that allows you to mount the RH25 to a Wilcox FTS mount and still use the Picatinny rail attachment. I'll update the designs as I go along.
- can't guarantee that the dovetail locks into place properly
- not sure about the height of the optical axis
But if some people want to try them out, feel free to let me know. For example, here is a version that allows you to mount the RH25 to a Wilcox FTS mount and still use the Picatinny rail attachment. I'll update the designs as I go along.
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