Definitely following for updates. Step one is having a good solution to mount to the wilcox, step 2 is figuring out a riser that will give a 1.93" height to match the scalaworks LEAP. Until then it's the factory mount
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Night Vision IRay RH25 Micro video/picture thread
- Thread starter Surgeon_Shooter
- Start date
I don't think a riser currently exists that would raise a RH25 in a Wilcox FTS mount from 1.54" to 1.93". Part of the reason probably being that the riser would raise the Picatinny surface by only about 0.35", which is really close or even under the minimum clearance the Picatinny rail needs underneath it, according to MIL-STD-1913. So one would have to design a dovetail QD mount that gives you 1.93" optical axis from the start.
What you can do in the meantime is buy a RH25 rail that accepts both dovetail and Picatinny (hint hint) and then buy the Cold Harbour Supply 1.93" QD mount: https://coldharboursupply.com/products/cold-harbour-1-93-qd-riser-for-rh25-pfalcon640
What you can do in the meantime is buy a RH25 rail that accepts both dovetail and Picatinny (hint hint) and then buy the Cold Harbour Supply 1.93" QD mount: https://coldharboursupply.com/products/cold-harbour-1-93-qd-riser-for-rh25-pfalcon640
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My RH25 just went TU, after the boot screen it briefly gives a view then and turns off. This happens with each of the 6x fully charged batteries I have and also with the USB/DTD cable. It wasn’t dropped. drowned or put thru anything like “hard use”! It hasn’t been mounted/shot as a clipon, so no g-force shocks and it has very few runtime hours.
I’ve contacted the manufacturer and waiting to hear if they have a remote fix or if they need it back. Has anyone else had this happen to theirs?
I’ve contacted the manufacturer and waiting to hear if they have a remote fix or if they need it back. Has anyone else had this happen to theirs?
Sounds like the same problem this guy has. Boots up briefly then turns off.
This link is sending me to a vid of a junkie at a convenience store!
I was looking into that mount but sadly it says they can't sell or ship to the US which I don't get. I understand why the Pfalcon they sell can't be exported but don't understand why the mount can't. They make a few other accessories for the rh25 that they sell to the US.
IVE HAD THIS COME ON BY ACCIDENT BUT CANT GET IT TO COME ON AGAIN AND IHAVE A INTERNATIOAL AS IM ON CANADA
At this point I'm pretty sure I've read all there is to read about this device between this thread, ARFcom thread, and handful of reddit threads. Special thanks to French for knowledge transfer in all 3 spots. Probably learned more from his posts than all others combined.
With the US RH25 now back to $5500 and some international vendors still offering PFalcon for closer to $4000, I am tempted to go the international route but paranoid about needing to have it serviced or bricking it with firmware update and needing to ship it overseas. Has anyone in the US with PFalcon640 had any other issues actually requiring warranty service? It seems like these are pretty durable/reliable with a good track record at this point. Not sure if $1500+ premium for US one is worth it.
Have also read conflicting things about if anyone in the US will actually service a PFalcon. iRay USA told me via email that they wouldn't which makes sense, since they would rather sell the RH25. Have read a handful of posts saying otherwise. Or are there any 3rd parties here that service these?
With the US RH25 now back to $5500 and some international vendors still offering PFalcon for closer to $4000, I am tempted to go the international route but paranoid about needing to have it serviced or bricking it with firmware update and needing to ship it overseas. Has anyone in the US with PFalcon640 had any other issues actually requiring warranty service? It seems like these are pretty durable/reliable with a good track record at this point. Not sure if $1500+ premium for US one is worth it.
Have also read conflicting things about if anyone in the US will actually service a PFalcon. iRay USA told me via email that they wouldn't which makes sense, since they would rather sell the RH25. Have read a handful of posts saying otherwise. Or are there any 3rd parties here that service these?
I know it will vary scope to scope, but around what power do you get the RH25 filling the scopes FOV (ie: not seeing black in your scopes eyepiece)?
With the RH25 having a 640x512 sensor and most others having a 640x480 sensor, do you get that taller picture with the RH25 or does software/demag negate that?
Main scope I would possibly put this in front is would be an ATACR 1-8
With the RH25 having a 640x512 sensor and most others having a 640x480 sensor, do you get that taller picture with the RH25 or does software/demag negate that?
Main scope I would possibly put this in front is would be an ATACR 1-8
Did some cold weather testing of the RH25 last night as part of my review I'm working on right now. Everything worked as it was suppose to when other piece of kit failed at those temps (below -30F). No stuttering of the automatic nuc'ing, no screen flickering, no weird abbrations...nothing. I have seen cheaper Chinese units fail in these conditions myself (even more expensive units too), but this one held its ground and worked just as well as it would have at room temperature.
I included a picture through it showing the image quality at that low of temps and with a frosted up germanium lens as you see in the other picture.
I included a picture through it showing the image quality at that low of temps and with a frosted up germanium lens as you see in the other picture.
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The display will be filled up completely at around 1.75x optical, and heavily degraded past 4x optical in my testing with a Vortex 1-10 Razor. You'll see between 1.5 and 1.75x optical with most LPVOs with varying FOVs for all corners of the display to dissappear.
Hecque, I'm more impressed that you didn't fail.
-30, nah, I'll take a hard pass and sit by the fire drinking some coffee.
Good layering systems and some grit goes a long wayHecque, I'm more impressed that you didn't fail.
-30, nah, I'll take a hard pass and sit by the fire drinking some coffee.
. Figured thr best way to test the lower temp ratings of these things...is to use them at those temps 
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Stokes, that RH25 said because of all the torture and abuse it is receiving it would like for you to send it to an orphanage home down in Mississippi where its nice and warmer.
For those that have used a Wilcox FTS mount with the RH25, I have a question…
Say you’re walking a creek for raccoons and using the RH25 as a scanner, is the return to zero of the FTS mount sufficient enough that you could clip the RH25 into the FTS mount on a rifle to shoot something? I know that’s not the whole purpose of the FTS mount originally, but I didn’t know if it was rock solid, or just not usable in that regard. A QD mount would be fine, but in the dark it would just be easier to slide it in a mount rather than finding the correct pic slots
Say you’re walking a creek for raccoons and using the RH25 as a scanner, is the return to zero of the FTS mount sufficient enough that you could clip the RH25 into the FTS mount on a rifle to shoot something? I know that’s not the whole purpose of the FTS mount originally, but I didn’t know if it was rock solid, or just not usable in that regard. A QD mount would be fine, but in the dark it would just be easier to slide it in a mount rather than finding the correct pic slots
I have and do use mine as a scanner then throw it back into the FTS and make neck shots on deer at 400yd regularly. same as I did with the ADM mount. My current use is on a 13.5 .308 MWS in front of a Razor 1-10.
In my testing, I don't fully trust it to return to zero. I tested the FTS mount with the RH25 in it (with an experimental prototype interface) and it did lose zero unlike the voodoo s.
Good info. I’ll maybe just have to test it myself and see. The more digging I do, the more I find about slight variation there is in FTS Mount tolerances. Some guys say theirs is tight, some guys say they can tell it’s a little loose.
The annoying thing is that there are a number of sources for this potential return to zero problem:
- Picatinny to FTS mount: if properly tightened, there shouldn't be any play in this interface. Since the FTS mount is not removed during the testing, this interface shouldn't affect return to zero.
- FTS mount mechanism: there could be play in the FTS pivoting mechanism, but it's hard to diagnose. If the identical mount has no issues with one thermal but with another, it might not be the mount.
- FTS mount to RH25 rail: this is a dovetail interface with conical surfaces in two dimensions. Unless there's dirt/debris preventing the dovetail shoe from seating properly or if the dovetail shoe is too small and the FTS locking lever bottoms out, this interface should be self-adjusting and always tight.
- RH25 to rail interface: if properly tightened, there should be no movement here either. The conical shape of the threaded bosses on the RH25 body always centers the rail when the body screws are tightened. Additionally, recoil is absorbed through a proper form fit with the housing, not the screws.
- RH25 internals: hard to diagnose.
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All good info. For what I’m wanting to do, I don’t even NEED the FTS function. I just know it would be much easier to mount it back in the mount in the dark rather than find the correct pic rails even using pic slot covers and a QD mount. If there was an option for a FTS mount that was fixed shut, I’d opt for that to eliminate one factor that could lead to loss of zero. If anything, it’s something I kinda want to play with so we’ll see. My max range will only be like 75 yards at most anyway. So maybe even 1-2moa shift won’t matter in the grand scheme of things.
Does anyone know what the latest update number is? From what I understand the "FPGA" number in the INFO sub menu section is the software version currently on the device. Mine reads "FPGA :0108, I was told the latest was "FPGA :0117". But I can't seem to find a update that isn't from 2022. Did any more updates get released and I'm just too dumb to find them?
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2023 RH25 ... I have been unable to have the app recognize the device?
The app will connect for viewing and capturing video and pictures fine.
The thing it doesn't connect and may not be relevant is "firmware update" ... which in reading every post in here sounds like a complete shit-show.
The app will connect for viewing and capturing video and pictures fine.
The thing it doesn't connect and may not be relevant is "firmware update" ... which in reading every post in here sounds like a complete shit-show.
I believe you have to download the update file to your comp/ipad/phone, save it and then upload it to the device vs connecting your RH25 to the app and “hitting the easy button”. At least this is what i had to do. However, mine is about the same vintage and came with the latest firmware which version do you currently have?
Differenc between a first release RH (let's call it V1) and a newly released one (V 1.5 essentially). Thermal conditions are poor currently.
I have a couple questions for those who use a remote battery and power cord with the RH25.
1. When you have the power cord plugged in and running to a Anker power source on a helmet, does the RH25 require a battery to be installed?
2. If it does require a battery to be installed, what source does the RH25 use first? Does it run on the installed battery until it runs out, or use both batteries equally? Or does it run on the Anker battery which would be preferable?
On my old Flir Breach it ran on the remote Anker battery without having one installed in the unit, which was great. Not sure on this one. I thought I’d inquire as I’m sure someone has figured this out.
Thanks
1. When you have the power cord plugged in and running to a Anker power source on a helmet, does the RH25 require a battery to be installed?
2. If it does require a battery to be installed, what source does the RH25 use first? Does it run on the installed battery until it runs out, or use both batteries equally? Or does it run on the Anker battery which would be preferable?
On my old Flir Breach it ran on the remote Anker battery without having one installed in the unit, which was great. Not sure on this one. I thought I’d inquire as I’m sure someone has figured this out.
Thanks
I haven’t run it HM w/ off board battery pack as the cable provided is fairly long so probably more intended for data transfer with a PC and l did so for power supply. That said, whenever I’ve used the cable I did so w/o a battery installed in the RH25. I seem to recall reading that you shouldn’t have a batt installed when using the cable but not sure about that. The iRay manual says to turn the RH on before connecting the data cable so it obviously is safe to have both power supplies connected at the same time. Someone else will have to chime in about power supply priority, my experience suggests the cable over the onboard 18650.
Some photos of my newest anodized prototypes. Functionally these are perfect, everything fits as it should. But machining marks are still visible through the anodizing, next time we have to sand blast them to get rid of the marks and give the parts a duller surface finish.
The integrated lanyard feature:
Alignment with an Aimpoint T-2 on a 1.54"/39 mm Reptilia mount.
The integrated lanyard feature:
Alignment with an Aimpoint T-2 on a 1.54"/39 mm Reptilia mount.
Sorry in advance if shameless plugs to C-grade YouTube channels aren't allowed here but I've had my RH25 for two weeks and put together 20 minutes or so of onboard footage. There is surprisingly little actual RH25 footage in all the YouTube reviews I watched before buying. I did find this thread and the one on ARF very helpful so thank you all for the info, especially French.
If not allowed, mods please delete.
If not allowed, mods please delete.
Love the video. I'll be posting mine up this week as well. There are no good videos on the rh25 out there, but yours stands above the rest.
I have a hard time justifying the $500 price tag of the genuine fts. Do you feel like the Chinese knockoff is good?
I have two and the dovetail portions fit wildly different to one another. So you might get lucky and get one that fits like the real thing or one that fits very differently.
I’m one of the Guys who helped javemtr with his project and have both types of FTS and yes the ChiCom knock off is good. The knock off doesn’t have the push button lock, brass bearings and pivot tension screws but works perfectly fine and for the $$$ only .Gov would make a car payment to buy the Wilcox. Wilcox are the 2x on the left in the pic for comparison.
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FWIW my post is based on a sample of 1x and javemtr makes a good point. There is a dovetail size difference between the Wilcox(smaller) and Knockoff. I’ve had to do some hand fitting but was able to make my dovetail lockup (slop free)in all 3x FTS.
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