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@jingle98 how is your setup shooting? I have a Feddersen 16.25" barrel in a Ruger receiver and am getting 5-6" groups at 50 yards with CCI SV. It looks like I am going to have to try bedding it or something.Got mine all assembled and needed to add a personal touch. Knockoff manners style. I have a GRX recoil lug I may install and bed it later on. Guess we will do before and after groups.
Factory Ruger receiver
FJ Feddersen 18 in barrel
EGW 20MOA rail
Vortex strike eagle 5-25x56
Ruger BX trigger
My KRG Bravo arrived today, I have a classic slip fit heavy barrel .920 KIDD barrel and V-block, KIDD receiver and trigger (full KIDD build) . During my first test fit, the action fit into the aluminum bedding nice and tight, I had to give the barrel small bump back to seat the rear tang, tightening everything down my bolt bound up, it wouldn't go back all the way, loosened everything back up, the bolt was free again.
They're making a tool-less LOP specifically for the 10/22 stock.
Quoted from the original "KRG New Products 2020 official..." thread:
7. Tool-less Length of Pull for 10/22 Bravo- A low cost version, it only fits the 10/22 and has buttpad height adjustment also which requires a hex wrench. Cost under $50.
I made my own it isn’t adjustable but with a little bit more work it could be. Still trying to decide if I’m gonna paint or polish it.@Massoud Any ETA for Tool-less LOP?
On their Instagram page they said you would have to remove some poly to make room for the thumb wheel screw.I tried emailing but can anyone confirm that tool-less height and tool-less LOP will work together on this?
KRG varified they will work together just fine.
For grins and giggles, I decided to see if I could drop a Ruger Custom Shop build into my chassis. The rifle has a rear receiver screw that screws into the receiver's screw housing from the bottom of the Custom Shop stock, but it turns out that when you flip the receiver over, the screw housing is bolted on to the receiver, so I removed the rear screw housing and the barreled receiver dropped into the KRG Bravo. I'd put an Eotech with a 4x Sig magnifier on that rifle, and the KRG stock geometry is much kinder for that optical setup. It appears possible to make a replacement screw housing that would mate to the rear screw setup of the KRG stock, but I haven't taken what I've got out for a range trial yet.
Ruger® 10/22® Competition Autoloading Rifle Model 31147
www.ruger.com
Fair enough, thank youI dont have both in front of me but I doubt they will be cross compatible. The bravo uses the kidd anchor and the titan uses its own that is taller if memory serves.
Hi,I've got the same thing, and experienced the same thing.
I pointed it out to KRG and they basically said that all 10/22's attach from the front bolt and that should be sufficient.
I don't entirely think that's the case, and the custom shop 10/22 is pretty heavy... but they are right that most 10/22s mount in the front.
yeah.. https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/1022bravo-chassis-rimfire/ .. they never mentioned removal of the rear tang when I emailed them.. the chassis is supposed to arrive later today, I'd hate to send it back.. .. if anyone can confirm it funs fine without the tang I'd greatly appreciate it!Does it really say that on their website??
Heh... they told me is was totally find to have the one mounting screw.
Confirming that removal of the rear tang is needed for successful install .. will test out new version spigot mount that is supposedly compatible with the heavy barrel.. however I notice the index trigger finger is constantly scraping against the open gap towards the rear of the trigger guard.If the receiver has the same shape as the standard receiver without the tang it should work.
I'd fill it with epoxy, sand smooth and start shooting.Confirming that removal of the rear tang is needed for successful install .. will test out new version spigot mount that is supposedly compatible with the heavy barrel.. however I notice the index trigger finger is constantly scraping against the open gap towards the rear of the trigger guard.
Any suggestion how to smooth out the edges of that gap? Or maybe just apply some tape..
If doing ambi cups on rear need that one and one of these:Does anyone know what external QD cups I need to get for this?
I just mine in today for a t/cr22 and it took some time to get it to drop in but it's working now.
I would assume it's this one but wanted to see about way to use to make it a dual rear cup.
QD Sling Cup – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com
Could you share what screw/size you got for this?If doing ambi cups on rear need that one and one of these:
IIRC I also had to hit the hardware store for a longer screw than they provided.
IIRC, 10-22's use a 10-24tpi screw...Could you share what screw/size you got for this?
Thanks!
Yeah, I sanded down all the sharp edges. Got a little sloppy and now it has a bit of a distressed look to it.Anyone else fing that the edges are in need of a trim? Seems like the mold edges are sharp or prominent. I'll be spending some time smoothing mine out next week when I return from work.
Yes was 10-24 x 3/4" for the Magpul cup threadsIIRC, 10-22's use a 10-24tpi screw...
Any work needed? I have the same rifle and looking to go with the bravo.Just got a Bravo for my MLR 1722. This is a big upgrade over the stock that came with the rifle.
View attachment 7626370
Nothing special. Just had to install the 2 shims that came with it to hold the rear tight and invert the front spacer to tighten it up a bit.Any work needed? I have the same rifle and looking to go with the bravo.