KRG Bravo Chassis

You can bludgeon an ogre to death with the rear stock of the Bravo, it is quite stiff. We do find that by far the largest share of issues are end user related. Our stocks aren't perfect but this is one of those things that probably someone didn't understand how the chassis works or read the instructions.
Justin
 
That's good to know, I just ordered a bravo and thought it might be a little light for match rifle build but with some stuff on it there should be enough weight.

I have a TL3 in one of the newer Bravos (Whiskey 3 backbone), and with a 26" heavy palma profile barrel, Gen 2 Razor, and bipod it weights 15.5 lbs and balances nicely in front of the magazine well, but most of that weight is in the barrel and optic. As you said, if I were to add some accessories to the stock (Arca rail & accessories, spigot, NV bridge, replace the polymer forend with an aluminum one, etc) that weight could pretty easily go up.

At least one member has posted about filling the buttstock and forend with lead weights if you really want to go heavy.
 
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You can bludgeon an ogre to death with the rear stock of the Bravo, it is quite stiff. We do find that by far the largest share of issues are end user related. Our stocks aren't perfect but this is one of those things that probably someone didn't understand how the chassis works or read the instructions.
Justin
Reason why i change this Whiskey rear stock is that, that i do remember the first time i see KRG Whiskey chassis, i was so in love with that view.
And i HAD no issue with the Bravo rear stock, not once, reason i get this Whiskey/trg rear stock, is that the chassis i got now, looks quite a lot with that Whiskey chassis you did present in 2011, or was it 2010.
So nothing bad to say about Bravo, that is by far the best chassis system you can get in that price point that it is.
I just wanted to play a bit different way, so dont get piss on me guys, that i made my Bravo a bit different type rifle.
You never know, if i swapt that Bravo rear stock back in, or keep doing what i do with this system.
One thing i find out when i was shooting on the range yesterday, that with this rear stock, i can handle recoil better than with the Bravo set, not much, but a little bit.
And i am large guy, i like that the LOP with this rear stock i ideal for me, even better that with my ESS chassis, i can get my trigger arm wrist in optional position, that what i like a lot, and this thumb shelf is awesome in this rear stock, it really holds in place, like a glove.
 
Didn't find an answer to this question in the thread, so I thought I'd ask. I have a Rem. 700 SPS Tac in .223 currently with the hinged floor plate. If I want to put it into a KRG Bravo stock and take advantage of the detachable magazines, is there really anything I need to do aside from dropping it into the stock? Once I drop it in, the stock has all the DBM hardware as part of it so I just need to buy some .223 magazines (say, some MDT magazines), correct?
 
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Didn't find an answer to this question in the thread, so I thought I'd ask. I have a Rem. 700 SPS Tac in .223 currently with the hinged floor plate. If I want to put it into a KRG Bravo stock and take advantage of the detachable magazines, is there really anything I need to do aside from dropping it into the stock? Once I drop it in, the stock has all the DBM hardware as part of it so I just need to buy some .223 magazines (say, some MDT magazines), correct?
Yes
 
Matching LA and SA both set in Bravo’s. The LA is a Tac-30 in .300wm. The SA is a 700 Milspec 5R in .308. Happy with both. The LA has the bolt interference issue. I solved it by building the riser up with dense sheet hobby foam. I built it up enough so the bolt still has clearance into the riser inlet. The SA just has a single layer added for comfort.
 

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Didn't find an answer to this question in the thread, so I thought I'd ask. I have a Rem. 700 SPS Tac in .223 currently with the hinged floor plate. If I want to put it into a KRG Bravo stock and take advantage of the detachable magazines, is there really anything I need to do aside from dropping it into the stock? Once I drop it in, the stock has all the DBM hardware as part of it so I just need to buy some .223 magazines (say, some MDT magazines), correct?

MDT .223 mags fit tight in one of my Bravos but not the other. Accurate .223 mags fit well (and drop free) in either.
 
Received my new Bravo chassis and enclosed forend yesterday, got it all assembled and dropped my Tikka barreled action in. This is a really great design, just coon-fingering it at the house I already like it better than anything else I've had.

I do have one question. Going to ask it here just for the benefit of everyone else, not a knock on the product in any way shape or form. There is a bit of a gap between the front of the grip panel and the back of the trigger guard. When I get a proper firing grip, there is a small sharp corner that is poking the top of my middle finger. Did I miss something in the assembly process? Perhaps I didn't take all the slack out of the system in the right order? If that's just the way it is I have no problems taking a piece of sandpaper to it, I understand for this kind of value you have to fiddle with things a bit.
 
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A couple of preliminary pics.
Got my arca rail, 419 arca bipod barricade coming by weeks end..

Still looking for an arca spigot :/
 

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Received my new Bravo chassis and enclosed forend yesterday, got it all assembled and dropped my Tikka barreled action in. This is a really great design, just coon-fingering it at the house I already like it better than anything else I've had.

I do have one question. Going to ask it here just for the benefit of everyone else, not a knock on the product in any way shape or form. There is a bit of a gap between the front of the grip panel and the back of the trigger guard. When I get a proper firing grip, there is a small sharp corner that is poking the top of my middle finger. Did I miss something in the assembly process? Perhaps I didn't take all the slack out of the system in the right order? If that's just the way it is I have no problems taking a piece of sandpaper to it, I understand for this kind of value you have to fiddle with things a bit.

i don't have that. all that stuff shifts around. i'd mess with it more and see if you can get it to close up
 
Received my new Bravo chassis and enclosed forend yesterday, got it all assembled and dropped my Tikka barreled action in. This is a really great design, just coon-fingering it at the house I already like it better than anything else I've had.

I do have one question. Going to ask it here just for the benefit of everyone else, not a knock on the product in any way shape or form. There is a bit of a gap between the front of the grip panel and the back of the trigger guard. When I get a proper firing grip, there is a small sharp corner that is poking the top of my middle finger. Did I miss something in the assembly process? Perhaps I didn't take all the slack out of the system in the right order? If that's just the way it is I have no problems taking a piece of sandpaper to it, I understand for this kind of value you have to fiddle with things a bit.
Could you take a pic of the issue just for my own curiosity?
 
I really like that color scheme on the Bravo. DIY or Cerakote?

Thanks much! I did it myself, I've been getting better and better with my multi cam skills. I practice a lot with different schemes :)

Here was a chocolate milk one I did lol. Wasn't thrilled with it but it would grew on me
 

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Has anyone tried a Nucleus/Barloc nut in their Bravo, I dropped mine in last night just as a test fit and it looks like the nut will be rubbing against the aluminum backbone.
 
So I just mounted the Nucleus/Barloc and 100% it does rub the barloc nut. I'm not certain that you can remove enough of the backbone to let it clear and still have the integrity of the backbone. May have to find another way, lose the barloc nut or find a different chassis.
 
Hey guys, we posted info on the Black Friday sales on Instagram, also there's a section on our website you can check out. It's in the product section under chassis, you'll see "Blem Sale" product icon and click on that.

Regarding the Barloc, maybe you can post a pic and we can take a look.

Thank you guys for your business!
Justin
 
Aren't here gonna be any certain percentage off accecories? Or just the blems?

Also why I have your attn. Does the sotic receiver accept tikka or trg pre fit barrels or is it a special barrl only for that receiver.

I don't know much about the Tikka yet excuse me if that's a stupid question
 
Ok so played around tonight with (gulp) the Dremel and the Bravo chassis, the problem was/is the bravo chassis and the nucleus with a barloc nut are not simpatico (ie lots of contact on nut and aluminum backbone). So after much aluminum flying around in my basement, a nice gash on my index finger, a great idiot mark on the side of the chassis, and some extreme yelling from the wife that I was disturbing family feud... the deed was done. I did this whole project for two reasons number one I wanted to be able to change the barrel without removing the chassis and with the nut touching it complicated things. Number two I had the nucleus/barloc in an MPA chassis and the damn thing shot one hole groups (not an exaggeration), when I shot the same batch of my reloads in the KRG I struggled to get an inch group. Granted I probably had a sh*t day of shooting and it was the native american not the arrow... But I have to blame something.

Here's the pics ps @Massoud you can make it up to me by sending me a spigot mount and possibly a dvd of family feud :)

I will shoot it with a much clearer mind this Friday whilst everyone is shopping and blame it entirely on that damn nut when it returns to one hole.

krgbravo.jpgkrg3.jpg

And yes I am damn salty as hell that I can see threads on my PVA barrel with the Barloc nut.
 
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Aren't here gonna be any certain percentage off accecories? Or just the blems?

Also why I have your attn. Does the sotic receiver accept tikka or trg pre fit barrels or is it a special barrl only for that receiver.

I don't know much about the Tikka yet excuse me if that's a stupid question

The SOTIC accepts TRG pattern barrels, we sell them on the site in several calibers.


Blem sale is only chassis.

Thanks guys,
Justin
 
And yes I am damn salty as hell that I can see threads on my PVA barrel with the Barloc nut.

This situation exists because the barrel you have is made to work with a BarLoc on an action with a much longer (+0.25") tenon than what you are using it on. We have the option to get a Nucleus barrel for a BarLoc with no barrel nut. There is an easy fix for this situation you have, we have an extended flange nut that will cover the additional threads necessary for the other action. And you can still use it with the BL. If you would like to fix the problem please call us Monday. We have the nuts on the shelf.

I am happy to read that it shot 1 hole though.
 
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