KRG Bravo Chassis

Hey guys,
I have a Bravo incoming soon.

Could you tell me which sort of paint might work best on the stock´s plastic?
I mean, are there some sort of paints that would harm or weaken the plastic, and which paint holds best on to the stock?

I would appreciate any info.
:)

I dont think you'll find a paint that would hurt it.. are you asking about a rattle can job?

All I did was scotch bright it, hang it, brake clean, paint, then clear coat. Try to avoid using it for a week or so and you'll have a pretty strong paint job.
 
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Well that's not the craziest theory I've heard. I will say that my spigot is very solid & I'm happy with it.

When you say 'a lot more wobble', what do you mean? A lot more than what? I've not fired my rifle with the bipod anywhere other than on the spigot, but I've got Arca everywhere so I could check it out for ya.

I will say that our rigs are somewhat different... I only have to stabilize a 20" Proof CF barrel.

Comparing this to another rifle of equal weight. Only difference is the barrel is 2" shorter. Same bipod.

By wobble, I mean what you would see if you were shooting from say a tripod. Granted, NOT that exaggerated, but no where near as still as I can get when behind my other rifle. Just curious if the bipod being closer to me would cause this. Maybe I'm reaching.
 
Hey guys,
I have a Bravo incoming soon.

Could you tell me which sort of paint might work best on the stock´s plastic?
I mean, are there some sort of paints that would harm or weaken the plastic, and which paint holds best on to the stock?

I would appreciate any info.
:)
Krylon or rust o Leum work just fine. Don’t cake on layer after layer and it won’t chip as easy. Don’t use cheap no name brand rattle can stuff.
 
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Choose a good brand, prep it and follow the instructions. Ideally for long lasting, do thin coats and do a lot of them (4-5 thin coats with 10-15 minutes between) clear coat goes on thin so you can do 2-3 of those. It's really not rocket science... it's worth practicing on cardboard and starting each coat with a quick spray on card board.

This is what I used.
20190920_120852.jpg


I used a sponge so coats were thicker and had more time to dry between each so that colors didn't run together. The paint sticks well to the roughed up surface of the bravo nothing to worry about there.

20190914_183121~2.jpg
 
You could probably shim it, but really you'd just be inviting problems. I don't have a Tikka but I do remember seeing that someone made a filler piece for the gap under the action at the front of the magwell, something like that could be customized to make the front to rear a bit tighter, but, if it's overdone you risk fighting the mag in and out.
 
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It looks like I'm wrong, it's for the R700

 
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Finished coating these barreled actions late last night.

Blue - 20” 8tw MTU IBI barrel; 223AI on a Howa

Sniper Grey - 16” 7TW RemVmt IBI barrel; 223AI on a Ultimatum U300

Blue one is a buddies, the 16 is mine. can’t wait to get them to the range.
 

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Finished coating these barreled actions late last night.

Blue - 20” 8tw MTU IBI barrel; 223AI on a Howa

Sniper Grey - 16” 7TW RemVmt IBI barrel; 223AI on a Ultimatum U300

Blue one is a buddies, the 16 is mine. can’t wait to get them to the range.

Your rifle is purdy! Do mine! ?
 
Ok, thanks, I was just wondering because it says that systems can be different in their outer measurements.
But if the accuracy is there, fine with me.

Thanks again.
That''s what the V-block is supposed to achieve; one way or another the action rests inside and makes contact with the aluminum V-block while the barrel is free floating, only connection with anything else is where it is threaded into the action and maybe a muzzle brake, or a suppressor.
That's the beauty of the chassis, no messing with goo like resin, or MarineTex; just screw it in there, torque it correctly, and off to the range you go. If you decide to use the chassis for a different action, no problem, while your bedded stock was printed to the last and should require grinding, sanding and fitting for the next, and depending on how skilled the guy performing the bedding and new inletting was, might never be the same.
 
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Just put on the spigot mount from KRG. Not cheap, but love the difference it makes with being more stable.

Just ordered the ARCA rail. Really like how easy this thing is to upgrade. Keep’em coming @Massoud

Thank you! We've got several Bravo items coming within the next several months. Hopefully you'll find them useful.
Justin
 
Most have been to the web site and know about the heavy LOP spacers and the forend weight, and have been on the notification list to receive an e-mail once they are available. TmDoc can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe his question was not directed to the issue if KRG will produce a weight system, but when it will be in stock and available for purchase.
There are other ways to add weight with bag filler material, lead, or stainless steel shot, with or without resin. decoy, or tire lead weights, a.s.o. but KRG sure can make a pretty penny by getting the LOP and forend weights out there, maybe by adding a designed weight kit to the grip, cheekpiece, or an insertable weight for the buttstock.
A lightweight chassis stock is great for hunting but a great many who have purchased the Bravo use it for range and competition shooting, and balance and weight is a prime concern not necessarily how light it is. The modularity of the KRG chassis line and interchangeability is a definite plus, although not all parts fall into that catgory.
Having the ability to add, or shed weight on a stock/chassis is one of the reasons why I''m choosing the KRG Bravo over say a Manners, or McMillan for my next custom build, besides the ability to add, or change features, and not have to worry about having to add bedding, pillars, or DBM metal.
Hopefully the weight kits will be in stock on the KRG web site soon. Santa will be getting a workout if they are is my prediction.
 
Choose a good brand, prep it and follow the instructions. Ideally for long lasting, do thin coats and do a lot of them (4-5 thin coats with 10-15 minutes between) clear coat goes on thin so you can do 2-3 of those. It's really not rocket science... it's worth practicing on cardboard and starting each coat with a quick spray on card board.

This is what I used.
View attachment 7150480

I used a sponge so coats were thicker and had more time to dry between each so that colors didn't run together. The paint sticks well to the roughed up surface of the bravo nothing to worry about there.

View attachment 7150481
Great job with paint.
 
How can you tell if you have the updated bravo backbone? Considering a TL3 and want to be sure it'll fit before i purchase.
Get it from the KRG web site and you're guaranteed to get the new version.

Edit:
Did you already buy a used one? Then send Justin a.k.a. Massoud a message he'll be able to tell I'm sure.
 
What Cerakote have people done with the Sako Green stock? I’m wanting to Cerakote the action and maybe barrel but would love to see some ideas. I’ve got a brand new ctr non stainless.

E5122A4F-4410-426C-B172-2B7842251B9C.jpeg

I did Midnight Bronze with my Highland Green Whiskey 3 and like the combo. Otherwise Sniper Grey/Tungsten/Cobalt would be safe and classy combinations.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a OD limited rotation sling mount that will work in the X-ray chassis? I have the OEM QD sling cup, but I want to use a limited rotation QD cup.
Maybe not the most elegant solution but a friend who had one of these left over from an AR had it mounted on his X-ray via pic rail.
 
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