LMT .308 MWS

Man… I literally just got a 14.5 5.56 pin and weld back from you and immediately dropped it on the floor and bent the gas tube while pulling my 20” barrel.

Glad to see a solution.

I should have a 13.5 heading your way soon.

Oh dang!

We’ve recently (today) decided to start putting them all LMT barrels that come through the shop for the trip home.
 
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@unclemoak waiting with bated breath

Maxwell

We're planning a setup like:

LMT LM8 MWS upper receiver
Factory LMT 308 SS 13.5” or SS 16” barrel or LW 13.5"
KAK dual ejector bcg
Radian ambi charging handle

Final price is TBD, but it's going to be pretty budget friendly. We are also willing to pin and weld the 13.5" if desired.
 
Finally got around to trying this today, but a 4" Area 419 arca rail fits perfect on a slick side upper using 3 LMT rail section screws (they sit about 1.5mm below flush with the rail plate). I didn't have a torque value on hand, so I went with firmly hand tight for now (with lmts threadlocker) and will probably call the LMT guys this week. I didn't measure the length or thread pitch of the screws before hand, but I'll add it to this post sometime. I'm happy to find this works because the 1913 section was both hard on the hand and has been chewing on my Anvil 30 head.

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Finally got around to trying this today, but a 4" Area 419 arca rail fits perfect on a slick side upper using 3 LMT rail section screws (they sit about 1.5mm below flush with the rail plate). I didn't have a torque value on hand, so I went with firmly hand tight for now (with lmts threadlocker) and will probably call the LMT guys this week. I didn't measure the length or thread pitch of the screws before hand, but I'll add it to this post sometime. I'm happy to find this works because the 1913 section was both hard on the hand and has been chewing on my Anvil 30 head.

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Thanks for posting this! I was wondering if there was a way to make this work. Think you could get the 8" universal rail to fit?
 
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Thanks for posting this! I was wondering if there was a way to make this work. Think you could get the 8" universal rail to fit?
I figured it would be helpful to someone. I can tell that using 2 x 4" plates won't work space wise. The 8" might work? Idk how many of the 419 milled holes will line up with the SL8 holes. I don't have one on hand to try atm. The SL8 1913 rail sections are solid but not very refined, so if the 8" worked that would be another nice option.
 
Haven’t shot it because I don’t have time but purchased it from a hide member last year for 2750. What loads would be good for LMT MWSs
 

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Haven’t shot it because I don’t have time but purchased it from a hide member last year for 2750. What loads would be good for LMT MWSs
Mine has balked at pretty much every M80 type ammo I've tried in 3 different barrels. 168 and 175gr SMK reloads and FGMM do really well. Haven't really tried much beyond that and now I'm just reloading cloned federal 175 smk loads which it does really well with.
 
Mine has balked at pretty much every M80 type ammo I've tried in 3 different barrels. 168 and 175gr SMK reloads and FGMM do really well. Haven't really tried much beyond that and now I'm just reloading cloned federal 175 smk loads which it does really well with.
What size groups were you seeing with the M80? I’ve had good luck with the 175 FGMM, but wondering if it’s worth having some M80 around to burn or let friends shoot.
 
What size groups were you seeing with the M80? I’ve had good luck with the 175 FGMM, but wondering if it’s worth having some M80 around to burn or let friends shoot.
My 16" chrome barrel shot lake city m80 at a little better than 2 moa I think along with winchester m80. I had some Korean and German stuff that did 2ish. But there was this one brand, cant remember who (serbian?), that was like 6-7 moa, I sold the rest of that to some local shop 😂. The 13.5" shot similar to the 16" and the 20" ss did a little better but not enough for me to pursue.

Problem was that some of this stuff would massively open up after 200m. Like could not remain on a full size IPSC steel target. But switch over to the 175s and that barrel was back to being a solid moa or better shooter. I just stopped messing with m80 because the money savings weren't worth the frustration of having weird things happen down range.

I'm gonna mess around using m80 with a 1-6x scope and my 13.5" barrel as an extra hog blasting upper. This will be for 100m and closer shooting mostly and just for when I need an extra loaner gun.
 
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I've had my rifle for a few years but haven't shot it much. (Wife had cancer twice, her mom and brother passed away at separate times, I had neck surgery and a stent. FUUUUUUCK) Anyway, it's never produced anything but shit "groups". I mean, 8-10 inches at 100. Finally broke it down the other day and it looks like the carrier is contacting the buffer tube. There's no marring on the under side of the carrier but the portion of the tune that contacts the buffer retaining pin is somewhat disfigured. Now I can't get the upper to seat right/completely on the lower. Can't even get the rear pin in. Tried removing and retorquing the barrel. Optic is a Gen1 PST 2.5-10X32 in a ADM mount. The optic tracks/works and is torqued fine because I've used it on my 450 Bushmaster for deer hunting. Barrel, gas tube and inside of upper seem fine and align well. No obvious deformation or machining marks in the chamber. I'm not a "sub-moa-all-day" shooter but I can regularly hold 1.5-2" groups with my 16" MRP wearing a RT6. I'll post pics later.
 
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I've had my rifle for a few years
What ammo/reloads have you tried?
Is this a factory rifle, used, or was it pieced together?
How many rounds and what barrel?
Have you had someone else try and shoot the rifle? We need the deets,, man

This sounds like a warranty issue. If the upper and lower aren't mating up idk what would cause that outside of abuse.
 
What ammo/reloads have you tried?
Is this a factory rifle, used, or was it pieced together?
How many rounds and what barrel?
Have you had someone else try and shoot the rifle? We need the deets,, man

This sounds like a warranty issue. If the upper and lower aren't mating up idk what would cause that outside of abuse.
My apologies folks. Factory rifle bought from another member. 16" SS 11.25 twist. I have fewer than 300 rds through it, unknown how many prior to my ownership. I've tried FGMM, Hornady Match 168 and 178, Norma 150 or 155, M80s. None performed worth a poo.
 
My apologies folks. Factory rifle bought from another member. 16" SS 11.25 twist. I have fewer than 300 rds through it, unknown how many prior to my ownership. I've tried FGMM, Hornady Match 168 and 178, Norma 150 or 155, M80s. None performed worth a poo.
So, you're saying you shoot this gun with 175 FGMM and you're going to get a 9" group?

Can you post pics of the recievers not matching up? It's possible you have a lemon that someone else dumped. Probably best to call LMT and have a chat.
 
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I've had my rifle for a few years but haven't shot it much. (Wife had cancer twice, her mom and brother passed away at separate times, I had neck surgery and a stent. FUUUUUUCK) Anyway, it's never produced anything but shit "groups". I mean, 8-10 inches at 100. Finally broke it down the other day and it looks like the carrier is contacting the buffer tube. There's no marring on the under side of the carrier but the portion of the tune that contacts the buffer retaining pin is somewhat disfigured. Now I can't get the upper to seat right/completely on the lower. Can't even get the rear pin in. Tried removing and retorquing the barrel. Optic is a Gen1 PST 2.5-10X32 in a ADM mount. The optic tracks/works and is torqued fine because I've used it on my 450 Bushmaster for deer hunting. Barrel, gas tube and inside of upper seem fine and align well. No obvious deformation or machining marks in the chamber. I'm not a "sub-moa-all-day" shooter but I can regularly hold 1.5-2" groups with my 16" MRP wearing a RT6. I'll post pics later.
Any chance you could post some pics of what you're describing regarding the damage to the buffer tube, rear of the BCG, as well as the top and bottom portions of the BCG? Pics of the buffer retaining pin would probably be awesome too.
 
I guess the buffer tube just looks more polished in that area than deformed. It's to the left of the retaining pin. She mates up fine without the bcg. About a 1/4 inch gap with the bcg.
 

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What size groups were you seeing with the M80? I’ve had good luck with the 175 FGMM, but wondering if it’s worth having some M80 around to burn or let friends shoot.
FWIW, my 16" C.L. MWS does very well with M80 and hot 147-150 gr. military loads, sometimes grouping below 1MOA, but pretty consistently under 1.5 MOA. It's a solid 1 MOA or better with FGGM 168s and Black Hills 168s, but not so well with any 175gr. or 155gr. match ammo that I've tried. I've reloaded a few hundred FGMM 168 clones to use as my go to loads, and I load 150gr. Sierra and Hornady FMJs hot in military brass for practice and SHTF. YMMV.
 
FWIW LRS I'd replace that buffer tube, put it straight into the trash can. Get a nice quality buffer tube and be done with that problem. Recommend you have a gunsmith check it out. Could be several things causing the accuracy problems. With LMT the upper and lower generally mate up perfectly. The BCG should fit and cycle as designed. Sometimes another set of eyes can make all the difference. Best of luck!
 
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I guess the buffer tube just looks more polished in that area than deformed. It's to the left of the retaining pin. She mates up fine without the bcg. About a 1/4 inch gap with the bcg.
I’m trying to figure out what interference is preventing the upper and lower coming together.
The BCG doesn’t add any physical obstruction to the upper - it’s in battery or else you wouldn’t get that far closing it ….
The only point of restance is when the rear of the carrier comes into contact with the face of the buffer, but the buffer should just be nudged back enough , under spring tension, so that the upper and lower come together properly….
From your 4th picture, it looks as though the buffer isn’t moving back when the carrier is pushing against it.
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This is the point on mine where the back of the carrier starts to push back on the face of the buffer, is your buffer binding on the rim of the tube as it moves back ?
In your first pic, to the left of the retaining pin, it looks like a swath of metal is missing from the edge of the tube



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Finally got around to trying this today, but a 4" Area 419 arca rail fits perfect on a slick side upper using 3 LMT rail section screws (they sit about 1.5mm below flush with the rail plate). I didn't have a torque value on hand, so I went with firmly hand tight for now (with lmts threadlocker) and will probably call the LMT guys this week. I didn't measure the length or thread pitch of the screws before hand, but I'll add it to this post sometime. I'm happy to find this works because the 1913 section was both hard on the hand and has been chewing on my Anvil 30 head.

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To anyone wanting to know if the 8” Area419 arca rail will mount up. It’s money. Thanks VS for the original idea.
 

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Thought objective was at the barrel end? Not sure but I've definitely seen it referred to as both ends of a scope.

Anyway, I tried a high mount and didn't care for it much. They are great for chin weld, heads up shooting for situational awareness. 3 gun type shooting but much of my shooting was prone. Starts hurting your neck. I think you'll find this out pretty quickly if that's how you are shooting. So I went back to a 1.54. Just like anything, what you will be doing with it, will answer the question.

Really prefer a scalarworks or spuhr qdc mount for switching between uppers.
 
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The lower the magnification, the higher the mount. Rds I’ll run unity tall mounts, 1.7 for lpvo and 1.5 for anything higher mag.

I could see using a 1.7 on a higher mag scope, especially with the dmr stock. I try to keep my clip ons lined up though.
 
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What are the thoughts on optic mounts for the MWS?

I have a Badger C1 1.70" with a 1-10 Razor on my Mars-L... Debating picking up another one, or a 1.54" , or doing traditional rings...

Optic has a 50mm objective. Stock is a LMT DMR.
I have a 50mm objective on a 1.54 mount with plenty of room for clearance over the rail (see my pics of mws with arca rail above). I echo what guys are saying with keeping it lower on a higher magnification scope. I personally will shoot the MWS more prone and like having a more consistent cheekweld.
 
For anyone looking for a MWS bolt, check out the sons of liberty bolts. Spoke with someone at Sons who said they are LMT bolts/bcgs with a stamped sons logo and they are available.
 

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I’m trying to figure out what interference is preventing the upper and lower coming together.
The BCG doesn’t add any physical obstruction to the upper - it’s in battery or else you wouldn’t get that far closing it ….
The only point of restance is when the rear of the carrier comes into contact with the face of the buffer, but the buffer should just be nudged back enough , under spring tension, so that the upper and lower come together properly….
From your 4th picture, it looks as though the buffer isn’t moving back when the carrier is pushing against it.View attachment 7838244

This is the point on mine where the back of the carrier starts to push back on the face of the buffer, is your buffer binding on the rim of the tube as it moves back ?
In your first pic, to the left of the retaining pin, it looks like a swath of metal is missing from the edge of the tube



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Pull the hammer back. Lol
 
What are the thoughts on optic mounts for the MWS?

I have a Badger C1 1.70" with a 1-10 Razor on my Mars-L... Debating picking up another one, or a 1.54" , or doing traditional rings...

Optic has a 50mm objective. Stock is a LMT DMR.

If you are planning on shooting mostly at 1X, the 1.7 is a good option,
if you are planning on shooting mostly at 10X the 1.7 is dumb.
 
@long range sponge

Is that a factory gun or a build? It looks like the receiver extension is threaded in 1 thread too deep.
In the pic it looks like the extension was filed to fit around the buffer retainer or broken off if zoomed in. The extension should be behind the pin, not around it. You’ll probably need a new extension to get it right.


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Your pic above. Mine below.
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Another of your pics seem to show the extension threaded into the receiver. It shouldn’t be that way. The carrier is probably hitting the extension.
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None of this helps your accuracy problems though. It may just be a bad barrel causing them. Hope you get it sorted out.

You can get it back together as is. Remove barrel. Put the receivers back together. Re install the barrel.
 
Did you shoot that can yet?

I’m still on the fence between a sandman S and the Rc2

Wondering how it does with the gas blowback?
Yessir! My first time shooting a sandman. It’s a nice can. Have a 300sps but didn’t want to run it on a shorty 308 although I’m sure it’d be fine.

Zachary at Misery Custom Rifles made an intermediate gas length, don’t know the exact port size he made for the barrel but it’s not very gassy at all.

Put 70-80rnds through it, didn’t get gassed out on the bench but I also was 3-5sec between firings at least with no more than a string of 5.
 
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@long range sponge

Is that a factory gun or a build? It looks like the receiver extension is threaded in 1 thread too deep.
In the pic it looks like the extension was filed to fit around the buffer retainer or broken off if zoomed in. The extension should be behind the pin, not around it. You’ll probably need a new extension to get it right.


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Your pic above. Mine below.
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Another of your pics seem to show the extension threaded into the receiver. It shouldn’t be that way. The carrier is probably hitting the extension.View attachment 7849522

None of this helps your accuracy problems though. It may just be a bad barrel causing them. Hope you get it sorted out.

You can get it back together as is. Remove barrel. Put the receivers back together. Re install the barrel.
Plan on getting out this weekend to see how she runs with a new buffer tube. The old one on the left had the first thread stripped so it HAD to be threaded in one additional rotation. I also bought one of the $500 LM8 uppers. If none of this helps, it almost has to be the barrel.
 

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Talked to a tech at LMT. My rifle was built in 2010. I bought it second hand a few years ago but haven't shot it much. Had issues on my first range trip and never got around to diagnosing things. Wife has had cancer twice, her mom passed away, I had neck surgery, then a stent, her brother passed away... It's been quite the shit show. Anyway, in the time since it was built, who knows how it was stored. Did the original owner store it in a damp basement which pitted the barrel? Did I jack it up letting it set for so long? I kept it stored with the rest of my guns that all shoot well but I don't rule myself out as the culprit. There's just too much possibility that the issues arose post production.
 
Is it a Chrome Lined barrel? I feel like it'd take some deliberate negligence to mess up the barrel. They do sell cheapo bore cams on Amazon you can use to check your bore and throat.