M40 Build Guide

[tokiwartooth]

Greenie out of the tank.




Here is an M84 I just repaired and restored, if anyone is interested. It was a sea green painted disaster when I got it. Cloudy, water vapor and sealant filled, missing glass, etc.

 

[Mossyrock]

Toki, the satin black Redfield is very difficult to photograph. Everything is such a uniform shae of black that there is very little contrast to show the words, numbers and details. Of course, it would probably work better if I broke out a REAL camera instead of my cell phone.

 

[tokiwartooth]

Toki, the satin black Redfield is very difficult to photograph. Everything is such a uniform shae of black that there is very little contrast to show the words, numbers and details. Of course, it would probably work better if I broke out a REAL camera instead of my cell phone.

I'm using a Galaxy S5. Excellent camera. iPhone cameras are crap.

I think this green is the color, although I will try a more dilute dye mixture. It's much better than the OD Green, which in my opinion, has too much blue undertones.
I'm getting good results with my current electrolyte bath, and I've had no failures in my last 5 runs, especially with the cooler weather.

 

[tokiwartooth]

Toki, the satin black Redfield is very difficult to photograph. Everything is such a uniform shae of black that there is very little contrast to show the words, numbers and details. Of course, it would probably work better if I broke out a REAL camera instead of my cell phone.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Shades of a Redfield Gen.-1...

'toki...', Are the scopes finished and/or appearing to be a more yellow gold, or even a gold-brown color, representative of this shade of 'green,' when oxidized? The reason I ask is, that you've spent more time than anyone I know researching, specifically, these finishes!! I've got some photos, in my file library, that just leave me confused. I do like this recent shade of 'green' you've shown here.

I'm still following your Redfield Accu-Range thread, with considerable interest and hope you've still got me on your waiting list!

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...rosshair-redfield-m40-accurange-redfield.html

I'm using a Galaxy S5. Excellent camera. iPhone cameras are crap.

I think this green is the color, although I will try a more dilute dye mixture. It's much better than the OD Green, which in my opinion, has too much blue undertones.
I'm getting good results with my current electrolyte bath, and I've had no failures in my last 5 runs, especially with the cooler weather.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

The only way to appreciate the work is to see it. Cameras, even a good one, won't pick up the true colors because it is such a smooth dyed reflective and refractive curved surface. A professional photographer maybe. The best thing to do is to go off the reviews for those have had the service done and get one. Personally, I like the Olive Green he used to do. Any green that is close will be just fine because the sun is going to change the colors on the different pieces anyway. You will end up with a different color for each piece of the scope after it has seen enough hot sunlight. There never was nor will there ever be two exactly alike. The Marines kept these in the sun a lot. To mimic that one would have to put the scope up on the roof and rotate it once in a while. Leave it up there all summer or until well done... When it is done it is not going to matter much what shade of green it started out as.

 

[tokiwartooth]

The only way to appreciate the work is to see it. Cameras, even a good one, won't pick up the true colors because it is such a smooth dyed reflective and refractive curved surface. A professional photographer maybe. The best thing to do is to go off the reviews for those have had the service done and get one. Personally, I like the Olive Green he used to do. Any green that is close will be just fine because the sun is going to change the colors on the different pieces anyway. You will end up with a different color for each piece of the scope after it has seen enough hot sunlight. There never was nor will there ever be two exactly alike. The Marines kept these in the sun a lot. To mimic that one would have to put the scope up on the roof and rotate it once in a while. Leave it up there all summer or until well done... When it is done it is not going to matter much what shade of green it started out as.

Correct. Different alloys end up different shades, hence why the originals have differentiation in parts oxidation. A degree in dye temp. Thickness of ano layer buildup. It all affects color.

 

[mjh30]

Heres a few pictures of my Satin anodized, compared to the AR TELS I've seen it does not seem as dark, but the serial numbers are all pretty close.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

"toki..." I REALLY LIKE this paler shade of green you're developing... and, you can see the obvious differences in the alloy content, with this color.

(...) I think this green is the color, although I will try a more dilute dye mixture. It's much better than the OD Green, which in my opinion, has too much blue undertones.
I'm getting good results with my current electrolyte bath, and I've had no failures in my last 5 runs, especially with the cooler weather.

 

[mjh30]

Gotta agree with Bolt_trash, that looks good

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Heres a few pictures of my Satin anodized, compared to the AR TELS I've seen it does not seem as dark, but the serial numbers are all pretty close.

And that is an old finish. I've seen black ones turn bluish purple with enough sun patina on it.

 

[tokiwartooth]

There is no true black. The black dye is actually dark, dark purple.

 

[m1sniper]

error in posting pic. I'll try again.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Redfields and colors...

error in posting pic. I'll try again.

Greenie out of the tank.

I don't think there is any confusion that the original 'green' anodizing changed color when exposed to direct sunlight and that the different alloy contents produced different colors/shades. The fact remains, that even original scopes that did not see much, if any, field use, did change color, over time.

Most, if not all, of our discussions have been centered around the 'colors' that "toki..." has developed and their relative appeal to our perception of how we would 'want' OUR Redfields to look like. Speaking for myself, the 'deep green' that Culpeper has on his scope didn't appeal to me, but as "toki...'s" color development moved toward the gold and brown shades, most notably his "distressed anodizing technique," the color shade started shifting toward a color that I was most familiar with... an oxidized shade.

As I see it, the various 'oxidized' shades/colors were familiar, but not a correct "production' color/shade and that, I think, has always been "toki...'s" goal, in this process. This most recent paler green color formula and repeatable/predictable color (within reason) is, I think, a color/shade that is truer to the original 'production' shade/color.

 

[MescaBug]

Agree with above comments. Thing is, I dont believe there is a 1st Gen in existence that has been kept from the sunlight and shows its true original color. That being said, it would be hard to replicate the exact same color. I think Toki has nailed it pretty good though.

Personaly, I prefer the 'distressed' green with shades of brown and gold.

I still dont fully understand why they choose that color... From Senich's book: "Rather than an attempt to “camouflage” the scope, according to Redfield records, “the external finish was matted and colored to match the parkerized finish of the Remington M700 rifles on which they were mounted.”"

Well, a fresh parkerized finish is far from being green!! At least, not green as we know it. The Green Redfield sticks out like a sore thumb on top of the rifle.... Makes no sense.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

There are plenty of black Redfield scopes from that period that are just that, black. As been mentioned, it is going to be hard to find an original green redfield in the same condition. the taxpayer got their money's worth out of these scopes. they didn't fade because they were indoors or out on occassion all these years no different than light use black scopes that have remained black and not faded.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Replicating a VERY thin slice of history...

"toki...'s " current paler shade of green (in development)... you can see the obvious differences in the alloy content, with this color.

And, for comparison, an original Redfield Gen.-1 that has retained 'most of it's 'green' finish

 

[tokiwartooth]

Man, you guys got way too much free time... LOL...

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Too much time and this damn rifle

 

[rlm8541]

I laugh every time I read posts on here.....Absolutely humbled by the members, passion and attention to detail that is shown here!!! Cheers to you all!

 

[pmclaine]

Deleted.

 

[pmclaine]

Really... ?? You just might want to reconsider leaving this post up. I'll delete mine, quoting yours, in due time.

There is no sarcasm smiley available to use.

I cant believe its actually being sold. It should be trashed in a shredder. I guess it could use its own thread.

To those interested Whitmans 1966 Rem 700 SA from Tex A&M clocktower is being auctioned off. Google will get you to the DailyMail story. I deleted the link.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Gunny pmclaine,

I'm not a 'gate keeper' and your motivations and intent, are certainly not in question. I use the 'Delete' feature (as in totally-totally gone,) fairly often myself. So, now that we've got you here, tell us about your M40 or what else you've got going on...

There is no sarcasm smiley available to use.

I cant believe its actually being sold. It should be trashed in a shredder. I guess it could use its own thread.

To those interested Whitmans 1966 Rem 700 SA from Tex A&M clocktower is being auctioned off. Google will get you to the DailyMail story. I deleted the link.

 

[pmclaine]

Gunny pmclaine,

I'm not a 'gate keeper' and your motivations and intent, are certainly not in question. I use the 'Delete' feature (as in totally-totally gone,) fairly often myself. So, now that we've got you here, tell us about your M40 or what else you've got going on...

My M40 is of the A1 variety.



This is my current project I have going on



than perhaps upon completion Ill get some more wood and iron in the safe with the original M40.

There is no intent or motivation in my post other than that the rifle is a notorious piece of history that Im surprised was not destroyed and now has made its way to auction. There is one pic of the rifle in the article and for the board it may be of interest to note trigger guard, safety or bolt features of a production rifle from the era.


Edit - Im not a Gunny. made it to Sergeant and I am quite happy at that rank. The hinges on the gate sound like they need oil.

 

[pmclaine]

Gunny pmclaine,

I'm not a 'gate keeper' and your motivations and intent, are certainly not in question. I use the 'Delete' feature (as in totally-totally gone,) fairly often myself. So, now that we've got you here, tell us about your M40 or what else you've got going on...

You know what on review of what has gone on here I kind of thought to myself "Why did I remove the link?" The reason I removed it is because the link may have brought pain to someone that may have had a loved one hurt/killed during the event.

So I removed the link for them, as far as what I care what anyone else thinks I really dont give a shit.

 

[Mossyrock]

18 hours after the first application of Real Milk Paint Company dark tung oil. I think I am going to like this stuff. And no, I have no idea why the picture rotated when I uploaded it....

 

[pmclaine]

View attachment 51318

18 hours after the first application of Real Milk Paint Company dark tung oil. I think I am going to like this stuff. And no, I have no idea why the picture rotated when I uploaded it....

I use RMP light TO on my Garand/03. I burnish light coats of oil into the stock and wood takes a deeper, richer finish. Its great stuff.

It will get uber shiny if the coats build but its good protection and you can knock down the shine with use or a synthetic buff pad.

I love the smell of Tung oil.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Damn, that looks real good.

Off topic, I had put some wood scales on a couple of fixed blades and was wanting to put a dry oil finish on them. I had boiled linseed oil but I got to looking what I had on the gun cleaning shelves. Starting looking up some data sheets and decided that the Hoppe's #9 lubricating oil that comes in the pump spray bottle and regular #9 gun cleaning solvent had the right ingredients for a finish so I alternated oil with the solvent a few times. Couple of hours it was dry and time to moveon.org. I do use the spray oil on my M40 for maintaining the stock (Remington actually told me use Pledge) . When my brother came back from Vietnam (USMC) he bought me my first rifle. It was a single shot lever action Ithaca .22. Weeks before I could shoot it he gave me a can of sewing machine oil and had me rub oil on that thing unit I was crying about blisters. At the time I didn't understand the point of that exercise. I was only 8 years old.

 

[pmclaine]

...had me rub oil on that thing unit I was crying about blisters. At the time I didn't understand the point of that exercise. I was only 8 years old.

Thats what I do with the RMP tung oil. The heat build up if you are real burnishing by handit will blister you. It really helps to fill the pores of the wood.

Ive seen boned rifles that use a rib bone, toothbrush handle or whatever smooth object to burnish the wood and those come out nice also. Not wanting to ruin 70 year old wood has kept me from trying it.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Try mixing pumice, crushed to a fine powder, mixed with your Tung or BLO. You can fill pores and build an excellent hand/palm applied finish in this manner.

 

[Bolt_Trash]

Mossyrock. Looking good, looking good. Having those original measurements provided by 'rlm8541' does make a difference, especially through the forearm.

View attachment 51318

18 hours after the first application of Real Milk Paint Company dark tung oil. I think I am going to like this stuff. And no, I have no idea why the picture rotated when I uploaded it....

 

[tokiwartooth]

View attachment 51318

18 hours after the first application of Real Milk Paint Company dark tung oil. I think I am going to like this stuff. And no, I have no idea why the picture rotated when I uploaded it....

Don't let it sit too long. The carbon all collects on the bottom. Stir that shit up. I mixed mine with 1/2 and 1/2 with BLO to thin it out a bit.
It's also a GREAT oil for case hardening/darkening steel parts. It's chock full o' carbon. Did I say that?

RMP Dark Raw applied with 0000 steel wool.
Chip Chipperson says "F*ck, yeah... like it better than cootahs!!!"

 

[MescaBug]

Dont forget the buttpad must be black all around

 

[Mossyrock]

Dont forget the buttpad must be black all around

ABSOLUTELY!!! It will go in to get Ceracoated "Carbon Black" along with the bottom metal when I get my barreled action back from being Parkerized.

 

[mjh30]

Mossyrock, who did you get to park your rifle?

 

[Mossyrock]

Jim at Countyline Shooting Sports in McKenna. It is near Yelm. I have looked at several things he has done, and he does a good Park job.

 

[tokiwartooth]

A couple more I just finished...

 

[29aholic]

Scope rings

I am posting this here because of the subject matter.

I have at least one set (probably two) of the correct rings for an M40 build. The finish is practically NIB but the screws may be buggered a little.
Are they worth $100?

 

[D_TROS]

I am posting this here because of the subject matter.

I have at least one set (probably two) of the correct rings for an M40 build. The finish is practically NIB but the screws may be buggered a little.
Are they worth $100?

They come up on eBay all the time from $10-$30 bucks..

eta - BNIB set sold for $40 last week...

Regards.
DT

eta - BNIB set sold for $40 last week...only 1 person bid on it

 

[29aholic]

They come up on eBay all the time from $10-$30 bucks..

Regards.
DT

Thanks

 

[anderson3754]

Sling swivel Info: Just purchased a suitable set of swivels for the front and rear on a M40ish rifle I'm putting together.
Thy came from Grovtec US, Inc. Part # GTSV - 1 1/4 inside diameter Blk oxide finish. The rear wood screw is 3/4 inch long and of the appropriate diameter not being to fat of a screw. The front machine screw with the correct style ferrule nut is 7/8 inch long.

When you go to their site look under non-detachable locking swivel set, open up the drop box and select the 1 1/4 version, $6.99 a set and the shipping price was fair. I bought 2 sets and I'm happy with them, Are they exact, nope. But until something better comes along they'll
work just fine, and will look period correct.

Regards

 

[LUNCHBOX0621]

Decided to get into the M40 game. Any leads or spare parts will be appreciated. Let me know what y’all have.

 

[LUNCHBOX0621]

Just need to park the barreled receiver and aquire a green scope and 40X base. But here's my addition. Built on a 6 digit receiver.

 

[tygsmith98]

Well gents. I finally bought a 6 digit receiver 319,xxx. I have an M40 stock from beever156 on eBay (the forend needs to be tapered a bit, but it has the correct barrel channel and safety bump) I just need to order a barrel from Douglas, blueprint, and slap her together.

 

[Coejro]

Well gents. I finally bought a 6 digit receiver 319,xxx. I have an M40 stock from beever156 on eBay (the forend needs to be tapered a bit, but it has the correct barrel channel and safety bump) I just need to order a barrel from Douglas, blueprint, and slap her together.

I’ve had 3 of beever156’s stocks. Agreed on needing some reshaping, but nice wood and good work overall.

 

[rjnallie]

Does anyone here know if the Redfield Jr. mount for the 722 has any moa built in like the original M40?

 

[pmclaine]

This is my Beever….there are a few out there like it but this one is mine.

I didn’t ask LRI to do any reshaping because I was building an M40like not a clone…

Only criticism I have is I wish the bipod rail was set back toward the action about a beavers hair.

I’m a big fan of Beever.

 

[Skunk]

Nice Beever.

 

[pmclaine]

Nice Beever.

It's been awhile since I've stuffed some rounds in it.

Hopefully next month at Sig.