M40 Build Guide

Hey M1....I will get you those measurements....I can tell you that both of mine are the exact same size. My tan one is in much better condition than my green. The tan one is also stamped with the Protecto Badge emblem. The Green one is not. Both of these were pulled from MC inventory many years ago...I can tell you from personal experience that the green ones were used (at least in my platoon) until we replaced them with Pelicans in late 93' early 94' with our M40A1's. I Myself along with a couple other guys personally carried our green ones out of the armory and thru them in the dumpster when we got the new cases in.
I personally never saw a tan one that I can remember during this time frame. Doesnt mean that there went any out there with the A1's I just never saw them.
Thanks rlm... Both my green ones DO have the Protecto-Kaddy shield and name on the fronts.Once you send me the measurments,if both my green ones are the correct sizes,then I'll be looking to trade one off for a brown one.It's been a while since I've posted pics here,I'll try to get one up showing all 4 cases mentioned in my post.1 Brown,2 green,1 black.
 
Source: Small Arms Review October 2002 - The U.S. Marine Corps M40 Rifle The U.S. Marine Corps M40 Rifle



Sadly, Hoppes stopped selling these years ago. Anybody that wants a copy of the original magazine article send me an email address via PM. The link above is the latest archive on SAW site.
Thank you Culpeper... Looks like I'll be selling my "oversized" brown one,and looking to trade one of my green ones for a correct size brown one.
 
Macca's CRS M40 TYPE-2 Stock Photos... 1 through 10 of 13

Macca, Sorry for the delay in posting these photos, for you. Cranked about 2,400 miles of driving here and there, this past week. The Numrich stock photos??

BT will hopefully put up some pictures comparing my unfinished Numrich stock & some pictures kindly forwarded to me by CRS.
These should show some of the differences between the two offerings.

The CRS stock photos: 10 of 13

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Bolt Trash, that really looks good compared to the Numrich and others I have tried in the past.

mjh30, I've got a NUMRICH stock, but was impressed by these photos also- and, it should be impressive as all-get-out/shut-the-back-door at $300.00 a pop. Not sure if they have a Type-1 AND a Type-2, OR just a Type-2. Macca is digging and uncovering the details on this/these CRS stock offering(s.)

Macca will also be sending me photos of his/a NUMRICH stock and I'll post those for comparison.

I purchased a NUMRICH stock and had it sent to my gunsmith, to make sure that when threading the SHILEN barrel blank, that it wouldn't be set too far to the rear or, too far forward. He said the fit was as near to a perfect drop-in as you can get and that the barrel channel's 'free-float' was also near perfect.

Now, I'm looking for an outfit that can do the MIL-Spec. ZINC parkerizing, in the Allentown, PA area. Anyone have a recommendation??
 
Keep in mind friends... Concentrate on the rest of the parts....ie. Correct base (depending on where in the era you are trying to replicate), Low 4 screw Redfiled rings, slab side safety, trigger (depending on where in the era you are trying to replicates..early double sere or later single), original mat finish bottom metal, right profile barrel, bolt shroud (depending on where in the era you are trying to replicate as well)...

Great advice, rlm8541. It's exactly these little details that can really matter... for instance; I was under the impression that the original bottom metal was "smooth, without any texture and was finished in a semi-gloss black." So, which is it? Matte or Semi-Gloss? Gets mighty confus'n, at times.

I will be posting measurements along with pics in the next couple of days of my original to try and help with profiling your reproduction stocks.

I'm really looking forward to seeing these measurements.
 
I purchased a stock from Numrich, and it has its high points and low points. Inletting? Spot on drop-in fit. Couldn't be any better. The contour of the forearm? Not so much. LOTS of wood to remove there, and I am still working on it. The curve of the pistol grip isn't quite right either, but I am not sure what, if anything, I can do about it.
 
I purchased a stock from Numrich, and it has its high points and low points. Inletting? Spot on drop-in fit. Couldn't be any better. The contour of the forearm? Not so much. LOTS of wood to remove there, and I am still working on it. The curve of the pistol grip isn't quite right either, but I am not sure what, if anything, I can do about it.

Guys, remember that the Numrich is actually a Remington products from the mid-80's (700 Police rifles). Quite far from the M40. Its close, but no cigar.

Here it is mounted in one of my 7-digit Varmint Special. It is a very nice stock, I wont do anything to it. Being a Remington products, it is 120% drop in ;)



 
Macca's NUMRICH Stock Offering... M40 Clones

More photos from my files and comments to follow.

Photos of Macca's NUMRICH stock offering:

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______________________________________________________________________________________________________


Photo of SH member "budiceale" .223 M40 clone using NUMRICH stock. (It was this photo posted by this member on another forum and his recommendation that brought me to this forum.) His gunsmith and stocker really pulled-off the Type-1 'profile,' using the NUMRICH offering. A person that is proficient in layout and in splicing wood will have no problems in replicating an accurate profile and adding/building a safety 'bump/hump.'

M40_TipBurns_SHILENHvyVarmit-870_zpse2ab686c.jpg


ORIGINAL M40 TYPE-1 (Side Profile):

REMM700-40X_USMCM40_zpsb84f2a24.jpg


Commence !!
 
Yeah I know about the sleeve above the thread,it's just that the countersink into the wood is larger than the sleeve.

The front swivel components, for the M40, were sourced from Remington's discontinued Model 725 offering. The swivel loop was changed from a ~3/4 inch to a 1-1/4 inch. See my Post 901/Pg.19 to get a better idea of the size components fit to the bottom of the stock for the front swivel. No doubt that the steel pieces fit into the bottom of the stock, for the front and rear swivels to shoulder against, were glued/epoxied in place.
 
Thanks for uploading my pics BT,much appreciated.
CRS have got back to me and said that the photo's they sent were for the type 2.
I've since replied with a picture of both stock types to see if they have that type or can do it.
I'll keep everyone posted on this.
I reprofiled my Numrich stock today to mimic the type 2.The forend needed reprofiling anyway & I removed the large countersink in the process thus alleviating the need for the washers.
The grip/wrist is about 90% right thus far.I'm not too sure about about relieving anymore wood though.I would like the grip to extend a bit further but that would mean removing a bit more of the underline of the butt.
 
Hey Bolt_Trash....Sorry its taken me so long to get pics posted. I've recently deployed and between the prep,travel and shitty internet connection it's been a bit of a challenge.
I have close to 15 pics but the thread would only let me post 10 without starting a new thread....Ill post the last few as soon as I can internet connection permitting.

Here is the link to the thread.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...40-take-off-stock-measurements-pic-heavy.html
 
rlm8541, I've already posted on your thread which is attended by my personal thanks, but by any measure, a significant contribution and aid to the 'clone' builder and M40 enthusiast. Considering how long ago these rifles were fabricated, your thread is like M700/M40 archeology- peeling back the layers to reveal a whole new set of details. Thanks again... BT
 
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Some in-progress pictures. Barrel install, clip-slotting, and action and barrel marking courtesy of Long Rifles, Inc. I am looking at this build as one that has been back to PWS for refit. It will have a second generation Redfield, refinished courtesy of Tokiwartooth.

M401.jpgM402.jpgM403.jpg
 
Some in-progress pictures. Barrel install, clip-slotting, and action and barrel marking courtesy of Long Rifles, Inc. I am looking at this build as one that has been back to PWS for refit. It will have a second generation Redfield, refinished courtesy of Tokiwartooth.

View attachment 48301View attachment 48302View attachment 48303

Nice machine work from other thread. I can't tell from the camera angle but the left vertical clip slot should be standing a little proud of the ejection port on the horizontal stock line. Is it too deep in the stock?

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http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh235/LoneWolfUSMC/100_1719.jpg
 
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The difference(s) lie on the right side of the receiver. The rear wall of the ejection port should be relieved (notched back,) a feature which allows the shooter's thumb easier access for loading cartridges.

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Nice machine work from other thread. I can't tell from the camera angle but the left vertical clip slot should be standing a little proud of the ejection port on the horizontal stock line. Is it too deep in the stock?

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Mossyrock's 7.62 NATO barrel stamp...

Mossyrock, On another note, please share, some details on your 7.62 NATO barrel stamping... letter height? - length of stamp?? - distance from nearest edge of recoil lug???

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I revisited the clip slot thread and the machinist does explain the difference. He really had no other choice and he explains why. The photos create an illusion that it is sitting too deep in the stock because I'm looking for that little hump on the vertical line and it is not there. The vertical line goes straight down to the horizontal line on the wood stock.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/265275-clip-slotting-m700.html
 
Mossyrock's 7.62 NATO barrel stamp... AMENDED Part II The Findings, a/k/a The Measurements

NOTE: Amended below and in Post #1210 / Pg. 25 - Disregard dial caliper readings for height and length, in photos.

Length: 0.715 inches - Distance from nearest recoil lug edge: 0.177 inches - Height: 0.141 inches


Mossyrock,

Now, there's an incremental difference when measuring something (i.e., Letter/Number Height) over a 'curve.'

Methodology: If you take a piece of copy paper and lay it over the stamp and use a pencil to shade the paper, revealing the a number/letter (any with a well defined top and bottom termination) and then lay the paper flat...

Question: What does the number/letter measure now?

My question arises from the fact that if your vendor is using a pantograph engraver, the size letter/number he selects will dictate the actual appearance and outcome. There won't be any do-overs.

Mossyrock, your stamping/engraving looks 'righteous' to me. Thanks for sharing this detail with all of us.
 
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Culpeper, Did as you did and reread the Clip Slot thread and yes, it is fully explained. I hadn't done that before posting my reply. Thanks for refining your post with that 'Clip Slotting' link. Again we find another nuanced variation in the M40. All told, the clip slot and the notch in the forward bridge of the receiver were the only M40 features (except the 7.62 NATO chambering) that the Corps brought forward when they transitioned into the M40A1.

I revisited the clip slot thread and the machinist does explain the difference. He really had no other choice and he explains why. The photos create an illusion that it is sitting too deep in the stock because I'm looking for that little hump on the vertical line and it is not there. The vertical line goes straight down to the horizontal line on the wood stock.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/265275-clip-slotting-m700.html
 
So....have you ever wondered what a brand new, freshly hatched, matte-finished, second generation Redfield Accu-Range would look like? Send your scope to Tokiwartooth and find out. :p

Did you get it? PM'ed you on m14forum.com. Let me know.
For the record, they are "satin" finish. The AR TEL is more matte finish. Replaced your zoom ring, turret base, zoom thumb screw, turret caps with spares I had. Used the ocular assembly and glass from the other scope you sent.
 
Did you get it? PM'ed you on m14forum.com. Let me know.
For the record, they are "satin" finish. The AR TEL is more matte finish. Replaced your zoom ring, turret base, zoom thumb screw, turret caps with spares I had. Used the ocular assembly and glass from the other scope you sent.

Yup. Just replied. Great job! That was the last piece of the puzzle. Now if I would just get off my butt and finish the stock work, I could put this rifle together! :)
 
Macca's CRS M40 Type-1 and Type-2 follow-up...

Photos only. Macca can 'quote' this post and elaborate on his communications with CRS, in another post. The 'Type; ID's might need to be amended- the pistol grip with the 'tighter'/closer curve would be the correct Type-1 and the more open grip a Type-2

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Thanks Macca for dig'n-in and doing this follow-up.
 
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GunBlack for parkerizing services... in the Northeast

Shuff's is well known and his reputation is well deserved, but I was looking for a vendor, with a comparable reputation and one that could handle a complete M700 barreled action (Shuff's can't,) who was on the east coast and closer to my gunsmith and stocker. I contacted them via their web site's internal mail and did not keep a copy of my correspondence, but the content of their response was very complete. I tried, but the green parkerizing finish, regrettably, was out of the question. I'm going with this outfit...

GunBlack

GunBlack.com - Black Oxide and Manganese Phosphate

Good morning Mr. Bolt_Trash, and thank you for your interest in GunBlack's services. The term Parkerizing can mean both Zinc Phosphate and Manganese Phosphate. The United States Military has always preferred Manganese over Zinc for small arms. The same goes for Remington Arms in Ilion NY. Both Remington and the Department of Defense are important (and big) customers for GunBlack. Manganese and Zinc Phosphate have always been a medium-dark gray in color. Green tints in the coating came from poor chemistry during war-time production and elements in cosmoline and other heavy grease reacting with the coating over a long time. Some shops use pigments in their oil rinse to color the Parkerize coating but that does not conform to the Military Specification, so we do not provide it. The chromic acid contains hexavalent chromium which is nasty, nasty, nasty. It is carcinogenic, toxic and all around bad news. I do not know why it is still in the Mil Spec because the DOD also requires contractors like GunBlack to NOT use it in our process, for any components that come in to contact with human skin. Mil Spec Parkerize (Manganese Phosphate) is the correct coating for your Remington Sniper rifle and a superior firearm finish to Zinc Phosphate. Zinc Phosphate is usually used for automotive parts.
a) The barreled action can be coated as a single unit. This is also the way we coat rifles for Remington.
c) Turnaround time is less than 2 weeks.
d) Thank you for the opportunity to quote you.

Best regards,
Steve Kempf
GunBlack, Inc.
[email protected]
GunBlack.com - Black Oxide and Manganese Phosphate

Just a note, that I did, in fact, contact some other NE outfits that advertised providing parkerizing services and other than Shuff's, who is a consummate professional, only two (2) in five (5) actually even bothered to respond.
 
Mossyrock's 7.62 NATO barrel stamp... Part III The Findings, a/k/a The REAL Measurements

Mossyrock,

I'm going to submit your name to the Pope. I don't know what he'll do with it, but it can't hurt. Who knows, maybe a holiday... if you don't mess it up?

Mr. Bolt_Trash, at your request:

View attachment 49644

.141" high, .715" long

Letter / Number Height: 0.141 inches

Stamping Length: 0.715 inches

Distance from front of recoil lug: 0.177 inches (no change)

M403_zps0e9b145f.jpg


Well done !! And, you feel better...
 
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Mossyrock... any photos ??

Mossyrock,

BTW, how is the work on your stock coming ?? Any photos on 'toki...'s' Gen.-2 scope work that you can show us ??

I'll submit another letter...
 
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The stock is at about a 98% solution, shape wise. The M40 stock pics with measurements that were posted the other day were exactly what I needed. I am doing the final sanding, down to 220 grit. If the warden gives me any free time today, I MIGHT be close to applying the first coat of finish. Exactly what that finish will be, I haven't yet decided. It will be an oil of some sort, but I am still debating the merits of BLO, Danish Oil, and Teak Oil.

I should be able to get some pics of the scope this afternoon. I also plan on dropping the barreled action off for Parkerizing. Stand by for news.....
 
The stock is at about a 98% solution, shape wise. The M40 stock pics with measurements that were posted the other day were exactly what I needed. I am doing the final sanding, down to 220 grit. If the warden gives me any free time today, I MIGHT be close to applying the first coat of finish. Exactly what that finish will be, I haven't yet decided. It will be an oil of some sort, but I am still debating the merits of BLO, Danish Oil, and Teak Oil.

I should be able to get some pics of the scope this afternoon. I also plan on dropping the barreled action off for Parkerizing. Stand by for news.....

Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil is a great finish offers a bit more water resistance than BLO. Easy to use, just rub it in in small coats like you are trying to create enough friction to get the stock to catch fire. I use it on Garands and 03s. Tung oil was an approved substitute for BLO prior to WWII. It wont oxidize red like BLO and will become shiny if the coats build up. You can knock the shine off with a synthetic buff pad.
 
Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil is a great finish offers a bit more water resistance than BLO. Easy to use, just rub it in in small coats like you are trying to create enough friction to get the stock to catch fire. I use it on Garands and 03s. Tung oil was an approved substitute for BLO prior to WWII. It wont oxidize red like BLO and will become shiny if the coats build up. You can knock the shine off with a synthetic buff pad.

I use their dark variety. They add carbon to it.