M40 Build Guide

Re: M40 Build Guide

I ordered that barrel based on what a guy on another forum posted. He posted an actual picture of his receipt from Douglas, so I used that info. I just assumed that it was correct and when I talked to Stan, I told him that I needed the barrel for an early, Vietnam era M40. I now know that it would have been better to provide him with the actual specs, which I am still not 100% sure of. In looking at the pictures in Senich's book, it does look like the taper actually starts about 2 inches forward of the threaded end of the chamber, rather than the recoil lug.

I took the measurements that I posted in the above thread. I think that even if the 1.250, or 1.260 in the case of my barrel, goes out 2 inches from the recoil lug, that is still too far.

Anyhow, I am looking forward to seeing how yours come out after you get it back from Stan.

Are you getting a whole new one, or is he going to just re-do yours?

Thanks, Greg
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Far as I know, Greg, Stan is just going to take mine and have it recontured to the Varmint profile and cut down the 1 inch off the end and redo the muzzle like the illustrations in Senich's book and off the web over on CSP's M40 build thread shows. I'm working on a stencil for the various markings once I get it back to add once it is installed and headspaced. I also ordered one of those stocks from Numrich (I just hope they aren't back-ordered) to go with it, so waiting on that to come in too.

Once I get the barrel back, I'll test fit it to my receiver with the scope mounted and see what we have. Then if mine works, you can see if Stan will turn yours down the same way, perhaps?
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Thanks. I'm also curious to see how it all fits into the Numrich stock. It looks like the stock is sold out right now, but keep your eye on it. They were sold out when I went to order mine, but they came availble about a month later. It's a pretty decent stock and a whole lot easier than trying to redo an ADL stock.
 
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Well, they're showing my order status as "preparing for shipment" so I presume that means I got the last one, then? Kind of ironic, since the pre-suffix Badger Ord square base was pretty much the same deal, as I recall. It may be becoming much harder to build these at this rate? Guess it's a good thing we started when we did.
 
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Yea, it is quite the project, but it will sure be worth it when they're finished! Once I get my barrel straightened out, I will have most everything I need. I can't find the correct base, so i will probably try to have the rounded corners built up on the one that I have. The correct scope is quite another hunt! I missed a couple of accu-ranges a while back and now they seem pretty hard to come by. I'm hoping to find one and have it either coated or maybe even anodized somehow.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

I'll see if I can find the name and contact info on the folks I got mine from. He restores these and said that he had no luck trying to change colors with anodizing. The original bare aluminum takes the dye as part of the process and once it is in there, it's supposedly just about impossible to get it all back out of the pores of the metal to put the new color of dye on it. So with the one I got, he had stripped it completely down, serviced all the internals, and then duracoated it to match the original shade of green as near as possible. Not 100% correct, granted, but I just didn't have a couple of more thousand to put out on an original Marine green scope.
 
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I know that the Marine armorers bedded the M40s when they got them. Did they also bed the BM as well or did they just do the barreled action? I looked through Senichs book and couldnt find anything.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Not sure, USMC Grunt. Best as I can figure, that was done by the armorers in country, so I don't know if it wouldn't depend on who, where and when any individual rifle arrived as to how it was done. I've been told that a lot of things that are passed around as "gospel" in the books, etc. aren't nearly as written in stone in reality back then. Exceptions to every rule, as they say? I know that once mine gets together and finished, that I want mine bedded. After all, it IS still going to be a shooter once done, and that would make a BIG difference in accuracy.

One other update; my new stock from Numrich came in today. Expensive, but WORTH IT. VERY happy with the fit and finish, and once I swapped buttplates and added my sling swivels to it, it looks really good. I still have my halfway-finished ADL-to-BDL stock too. Thought about either selling it, or maybe trying to finish it up too and then camo-painting that one like Mawhinny's was? Probably just sell it though. Once mine is bedded, I really don't want to be pulling it out and swapping stocks (not to mention having to bed the second one, too) and besides, someone out there doing one of these from scratch might want it?

Greg, I still haven't found the box and papers for the company I got the scope from yet, but I am still looking for it. I'll post it once I find it.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Pvt.Joker,
Thanks, no hurry on the scope info. Those stocks do look pretty good, guess that's why they sell out so fast. The aluminum buttplates fit good too! Not a whole lot of work to get one looking good. Are you going to reshape the forend and put some "oil" on it?

Did you get your barrel back from Douglas yet?

Greg
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Greg, yeah, I am planning on reshaping the front end once I get my barrel back. I've thought about rubbing the stock down with linseed oil, but I also have have had real good results with a product called Howard Feed-N-Wax.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I'm looking forward to see how your barrel fits in that stock.

</div></div>

Yeah, me too. I thought about calling them and asking about it, but I don't want to be a pain in the ass to them about it. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check in though.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

I'm thinking that if you had them re-contour it to their "Rem Varmint 007" contour specs, it should fit pretty good. Probably what I should have ordered in the first place.

Sorry about steering you in the wrong direction to begin with!
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

No problem; I think a lot of us in the middle of these are all kind of figuring out more and more about them as we go along- and sometimes that means making a mistake or two along the way. That's the good thing about this thread, though. Anyone who follows gets to save themselves making the same ones we do, and also gets a lot of the research done for them (assuming, of course, that WE wind up correct about it in the first place!
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) so it makes it that much easier for the next guy to know where to look for parts and info.

Hey, I *think* I may have a line on a set of stencils for doing the engravings on mine. If I can get it and it works, do you want one too? (Or want yours done?) I want to see how they turn out on mine first, but if they work, that's one more piece of the puzzle.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Thanks for the offer. I do want to see how yours comes out. Can't wait until we get them done! You will probably be done way before me. I don't have the means or the knowledge to clip slot, install a barrel, or park mine, so I was planning on sending my barrel, action, and bolt to TBA for the "metal" work. From what I understand, I will have a long wait, but that's OK.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Forgot to ask. Are you going to date code yours or stamp it 7.62? I still can't decide which I want.

Are you doing the U.S. stamps yourself or just engraving the serial numbers?
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Joker, what are you going to use to bed your rifle. I wanted to do mine in marine tex in white and then dye it to match the stock. I did it last night and it didnt turn out right. It was more light brown then the dark brown. So my question is, is there a bedding compound that can be turned into dark brown to match the stock. After I take the action out Ill post some pics to so what Im talking about. I know that the rifles used in Vietnam were bedded with Bisonite but I cant find it in brown.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Greg, I am planning on doing the date code version as near as I can estimate it by the serial number (the receiver I got didn't have the original barrel anymore). I am planning on trying to do the "U.S." marking, the barrel proofs side and date code, and the Redfield logo on the scope base with etching, and then electropenciling the serial numbers on the bolt body, the scope base and maybe the scope body.

USMC Grunt, I haven't decided yet which product to use. I will probably discuss it with Ronnie Morris and go by his recommendation (maybe even get him to do it). I really respect his opinion and he has done a lot of really excellent work for me before. I trust his opinion on that sort of thing.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

I don't know if this will help with your date code, but my rifles were complete, I believe with original barrels.

My 266,xxx was date coded LP, Feb. 1967.
My 321,xxx was date coded XP, Dec. 1967.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know if this will help with your date code, but my rifles were complete, I believe with original barrels.

My 266,xxx was date coded LP, Feb. 1967.
My 321,xxx was date coded XP, Dec. 1967. </div></div>

Thanks, Greg. Mine is a 256,xxx and I was planning on using the code of U F N 41, which I thought would be pretty close to it. I thought someone on here once seemed to have a breakdown of month codes by serial number, but I couldn't find it. So I am estimating/WAG.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Thanks, Greg. I just presumed they went in alphabetical order for the months, too. That just saved me a big screw-up! Glad I didn't get a chance to get the stencil made yet.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

I have an M40 that I am putting a 2 piece sear in. I have put it on the barreled action and put the bolt in. After I fire it and cycle the bolt, the cocking piece drops as if I were firing it again and all Im doing is closing the bolt. Now after I fire it and put it on safe and cycle the bolt it doesnt do it.

Did I put the sear in wrong? When I put in the one piece sear everything works the way its suppose to.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Did you get the two sides swapped? If I remember mine, they are not the same on each side. My trigger is out of the weapon right now waiting on getting the barrel back and all the stripping/parking done, but this is how it came out. Will these photos help any?

001-4.jpg

002-5.jpg

003-5.jpg

 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not sure what the U F are, maybe inspector markings. There are no month codes that I am aware of that are U or F. The N should be 1966.

link for date codes: http://www.remingtonsociety.com/questions/BLACKPOWDERX.htm
</div></div>

OK; so my new date code is going to be U R N 41 (The U and the 41 were inspector markings, as I understand it and were on the illustration in Senich's book), so that would put it in November, which, if the one in Senich's book is October 1966 with a serial number of 224xxx and yours has a date code for Feb 1967 at its serial number, should be pretty close to what this one should have been, right? Unless anyone has a listing of serial number ranges by month/year for the 700?
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pvt.Joker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you get the two sides swapped? If I remember mine, they are not the same on each side. My trigger is out of the weapon right now waiting on getting the barrel back and all the stripping/parking done, but this is how it came out. Will these photos help any?

001-4.jpg

002-5.jpg

003-5.jpg

</div></div>

I think that I had them the same as your pic. I got it to work right after doing some rapid bolt with it and out of 10 times doing it I think that it dropped once. But now the problem that I have is that the bolt stop works when its out of the stock and when I put it in it doesnt work. So I might have to mill out some of the side of the stock that the bolt release is on.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Im so irratated with this bolt release. I have tried everything that I can think of to make it work. When its in the stock it doesnt work at all. I milled some more of the inside where the bolt release is at and it still doesnt work. Does anyone have any ideas how I can fix this problem please?
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

I got it to work. I put in another stock and it works and took that barreled action and put it in the M40 stock and it didnt work either. Problem was that it was the front part of the release that was still hitting the stock. I thought it was the back part but it wasnt. So glad thats fixed. Now I only need to get my Redfield fixed and Ill be good to go.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Here is a rear sling swivel that should work pretty good for an M40 build. It's not my auction, but I have purchased two of these from this guy for my project. I know they are not really correct for the front, but once it's screwed into the stock, you really can't tell the difference. They look very close to the swivels that I have seen on M40 rifles in pictures.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=231908225
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

By the way, if you do buy one of these, ask the seller if he has another one to match. He seems to have quite a few of these and did sell me two off of one auction.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Pvt.Joker,

Just wondering if you got your stock and if you got your barrel back. Curious to hear how it all fits together.

Thanks, Greg

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pvt.Joker</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I'm looking forward to see how your barrel fits in that stock.

</div></div>

Yeah, me too. I thought about calling them and asking about it, but I don't want to be a pain in the ass to them about it. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check in though.
</div></div>
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pvt.Joker,

Just wondering if you got your stock and if you got your barrel back. Curious to hear how it all fits together.

Thanks, Greg</div></div>

Greg; nope. I did get the new stock in and did some work on rounding the nose correctly, but I'm still waiting on Douglas to get the barrel reworked. They may have gotten to it on Friday, but I was too late calling them Friday afternoon and they had already closed. I'll check back tomorrow and see. Believe me; I'm pretty "curious" too to see how it all fits together!
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Re: M40 Build Guide

OK; I got the barrel back and it still had problems with the taper on the profile starting about 1.552" too far forward on the barrel. So I called Stan this morning at Douglas and we talked it over, and I agreed to send him my whole rifle project back along with the barrel. So that way, he can see for himself just where/how the changes need to be made to fit the varmint stock, the Redfield scope on the pre-suffix mount, the 6-digit receiver and bolt, etc. Always easier to do with the parts in hand, and hopefully once done, he can save the profile for it in the CAD files for their lathe and the next guy that needs an M40 barrel will have it fit like a charm right off the bat. Not quite the "I'm finally finished!" that I had hoped to post, but it's getting there and Stan at Douglas is working with me on it still, so hopefully it will help not only me but anyone else who decides to build one to know where to go for a barrel that fits.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Pvt.Joker, Thanks again for getting this all straightened out! I think I will wait until yours has been done correctly and the correct profile saved, before sending mine back for a re-do!

Greg
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Well, my camera batteries are flat at the moment, so the photos will have to be added later, but the rifle came home today from Douglas and suffice it to say, they NOW have the correct barrel profile and know what to fit/sell for the M40/M700 sniper rifle!

Still have some more work to do on mine before it's done, of course, but that hurdle HAS been jumped. Just talk to Stan at Douglas Barrels and tell him it's the same profile that he did for Jay at Attic Arms.
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Re: M40 Build Guide

i want to thank all you guys that have contributed to this thread. i'm just starting to collect all the parts for my own m40 build and this thread is a wealth of information and the pictures are very helpful.

appreciate it!
 
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Welcome in! I *STILL* can't get my camera to upload to my computer since downloading Windows new service pack, but eventually I'll find a way to post them.
 
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One question, though- does anyone think the "M40 Build Guide" thread should be moved to the new "vintage sniper rifles" forum, or just left here in this one?
 
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Alright; here's one quick one of my M40 with the barrel back from Douglas on it, along with my 03A4 and my XM-21 rifles on my shop wall. I'll add some better pics of the M40 later.

012.jpg
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Hi Guys,FNG here.Not new to collecting,not new to sniper rifles,but am new to the M40 and will be "picking your brains" if this is OK.Hopefully I can add to this forum as well.
My 1st question is this.I saw it shown here that the correct Remmy butt plates are marked 16601- #. I assume the 16601 is the model type,then the suffix number is just a cast lot number.Do any of you feel that the cast lot number should be a specific one?? I ask because I recently won a lot of 8 Remmy plates.6 out of the 8 are 16601 marked.3 have the suffix number 3, 1 has # 2,1 has #1, and one has #4. Does it matter? Or just pick one that best fits the stock I'll be using?
Next Q is about the rings,I also found a set of Redfield rings "medium height" with the 1-66 stamp on the bottoms.Has it been 100% determined if the correct ones should be low or can medium be used for an accurate clone.My hope is to do an early M40.I am REAL anal when it comes to my sniper rifle collection,any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg V</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pvt. Joker, I can't remember, did you use one of the Numrich stocks? If so, how does it fit with that new Douglas barrel.

Thanks, Greg </div></div>

I did, Greg, and it fits like a glove with the new barrel. Only thing I've had to do to it so far is to round the nose, and I will probably do some more of that to match the profile in Senich's books' photos, and to eventually free-float the barrel.

And also, welcome M1Sniper. Hope we can be of some help in your project. It's been a long road with these, but you can wade through the last 7 pages and get a pretty good idea what is involved- easier than starting from scratch.
 
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Thanks Pvt.Joker, I'm going to give Stan a call tomorrow and find out what we can do with my barrel. If you get your camera working, I'd love to see some pics of the taper and the crown. I need to start working on my stock too, I guess I have been too busy the last few months, in addition to seeing what happened with the whole barrel situation.

m1sniper, I would also like to welcome you to our addiction!

Take care, Greg
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Got A question for you guys, I've been working on a build for a while now, and Thanks to Joker, I believe I know where to get my Barrel. I thought about giving up and building a vintage varmint special because of the stock, well I bought a 62-67 Varmint Special Stock (Fleur D Lis checkering) Any one know how close this stock is to the Original M700 Sniper Stock? I'm willing to send it off and have it reproduced in Plain walnut and was curious if any one would have interest in buying the clones? Not from me but the reproducer. This way I can let them know to do more than one copy.
 
Re: M40 Build Guide

Pvt.Joker, Thanks for the pictures. Looks great and like you are almost there! BTW, what did you come up with on barrel length? Is it 24" overall ( 23" from the front of the recoil lug to muzzle )?

Thanks, Greg