M40a1 build guide

Re: M40a1 build guide

What is the correct clipslotts on the m40a1, i've seen pictures of two dirrerence kinds. Is the picture on page 1 the correct clipslott, are did they have difference ones on m40s. trying to learn alittle bit.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the correct clipslotts on the m40a1, i've seen pictures of two dirrerence kinds. Is the picture on page 1 the correct clipslott, are did they have difference ones on m40s. trying to learn alittle bit. </div></div>

DSC_1055.jpg
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRose</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the correct clipslotts on the m40a1, i've seen pictures of two dirrerence kinds. Is the picture on page 1 the correct clipslott, are did they have difference ones on m40s. trying to learn alittle bit. </div></div>

DSC_1055.jpg
</div></div> Thanks. the picture on page 1 is that just a different clipslott are what, it kind looks like its shape like the back of a cartridge hull
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I think the other clip slotting you're referring to was actually clip slotting that Remington used to do (pre '64 I believe) to actually accept stripper clips. The one like on my action came in after that, and were cut by the USMC to accept the lugged Unertl mount.

I could be wrong on this, but that's how I understood it.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I am after a clip-slotted mount to use on a Rem 700 action , and a USO MST-100 scope , any make something similar ?

Cheers Chris </div></div>

I have several new USO MST-100 clip-slotted mounts, so I would be interested in selling one, but I'd first have to check whether these scope bases are on either the U.S. Department of State's Munitions List (USML) or regulated by the U.S. Department of Commerce's Bureau of Industry & Security-Office of Export Enforcement via an Export Control Classification Number from its Commerce Control List. If these scope bases are indeed export-restricted, due to either the International Traffic in Arms Regulations (ITAR) or the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA), codified at 50 U.S.C. §§ 1701-1707, then I could not ship to NZ without a requisite export license, associated paperwork and licensing fees.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I should have been a bit clearer , I have a MST-100 , and the mount I am after is the older M40A1 type , with the screws underneath , and not the M40A3 type .

So something like the one USO made , but not the ones they glued together ( as they donot HOLD ) .

I maybe interested in the base these where made from , old redfield ?

To me the perfect mount would be just like the USO one , but with the rings off the Parker Hale C3A1 mounts ( they use 4 screws instead of 2 , per ring )

Thanks , Guys ,

Cheers Chris
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I was advised the base and rings are classified by U.S. Department of Commerce as EAR99, and thus, not export restricted, so I could indeed ship to either New Zealand or Ireland without a license.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRose</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the other clip slotting you're referring to was actually clip slotting that Remington used to do (pre '64 I believe) to actually accept stripper clips. The one like on my action came in after that, and were cut by the USMC to accept the lugged Unertl mount.

I could be wrong on this, but that's how I understood it.</div></div> No,, i believe your right, I seen the same kind of clipslot on a 40x at a gunstore and it was built by remington custom shop. The recoil lug thats on yours is not the same factory lug is it, yours looks to be a bit thicker. Im going to send mine off and have it rebarreled soon and was thinking it would be better if i changed that to. Still need to gather few more parts.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRose</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the other clip slotting you're referring to was actually clip slotting that Remington used to do (pre '64 I believe) to actually accept stripper clips. The one like on my action came in after that, and were cut by the USMC to accept the lugged Unertl mount.

I could be wrong on this, but that's how I understood it.</div></div> No,, i believe your right, I seen the same kind of clipslot on a 40x at a gunstore and it was built by remington custom shop. The recoil lug thats on yours is not the same factory lug is it, yours looks to be a bit thicker. Im going to send mine off and have it rebarreled soon and was thinking it would be better if i changed that to. Still need to gather few more parts. </div></div>

My recoil lug is factory. The action is fairly old, SN is in the mid 200's.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRose</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
JRose said:
I think the other clip slotting you're referring to was actually clip slotting that Remington used to do (pre '64 I believe) to actually accept stripper clips. The one like on my action came in after that, and were cut by the USMC to accept the lugged Unertl mount.

I could be wrong on this, but that's how I understood it.</div></div> No,, i believe your right, I seen the same kind of clipslot on a 40x at a gunstore and it was built by remington custom shop. The recoil lug thats on yours is not the same factory lug is it, yours looks to be a bit thicker. Im going to send mine off and have it rebarreled soon and was thinking it would be better if i changed that to. Still need to gather few more parts. </div></div>

My recoil lug is factory. The action is fairly old, SN is in the mid 200's. [/quot Were the mcmillian stocks glass bedded or pillar bedded by the usmc. The one i have isnt.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JRose</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glass </div></div> But, many are pillar bedding the old return stocks to avoid crushing/compressing the old fiberglass.... Mine will be pillar bedded as it's an older smear.... JMHO-YMMV....
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: long-shot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As I understand it, and I have no more information than you: The original M40's were of the 168... to 322..., and these were rebuilt into M40a1's. These actions were replaced when they wore out with the C,E,G actions.

I'm curious if I'm correct, but I think I'm close.

jeff</div></div>

Any further details about the exact s/n ranges?
My Rem700 SA receiver is s/n 189,29x ...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wilshire1412</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As far as I know the Remington follower and spring are used with a small mod done to the bottom of the stamped follower. There are two tabs that get ground off, I think this is done to allow max capacity in the mag to be 5 rounds.</div></div>

Thanks for the clarification.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

First M40A1's were built with receivers from existing M40's that were wore out and needing rebuilt. The majority of M40's were built on 6 digit 1966 receivers from S#168,179 to 322,769. First lower numbers were for testing etc I believe. IIRC the majority of M40's were from 212,xxx to 221,xxx, these being from the first initial order of 700 complete rifles with scopes but only 550 assembled and tested,sighted in.This shipment was Aug of '66. A few after that in different yrs through 71ish. Last being 7 digit.

As stated at start of this thread by George there were then 100 C prefix and some later E and G. IIRC he stated most were E as the earlier M40 receivers were getting just plain worn out, damaged, lost, etc etc.

The 5 digit was well preM40 days and '64-'65 vintage. Four digit started in '62 but I don't know exactly where they started with 4. I once owned a 9XXX 222 carbine. Never did look up exact date code and still wished I hadn't sold it. Was ex's yote rig and I liquidated everything she shot after divorce.

HTH
Respectfully,
Dennis
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Is there any diffrents between m40 and m40a1 (wichita) swivels, are all of them the same, wondering if i had the right ones are not, some say they are 1 1/4, some say 1 1/2, both would work, but which one is correct.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Never knew 1.5" existed??? As for the type of swivels on the M40 we have had some debate on that. They appear to be Remington swivels like used on the 40-X/XB rimfires. At first glance they are very similar to Wichita's but the Wichita's used on the A1 are 7/32" diameter with 40TPI in front and rear. Still up for debate and proof that Wichita even made swivels during that era??? The Remington 40-X/XB swivels are 1.25" as are the Wichita's used on the M40A1.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Never knew 1.5" existed??? As for the type of swivels on the M40 we have had some debate on that. They appear to be Remington swivels like used on the 40-X/XB rimfires. At first glance they are very similar to Wichita's but the Wichita's used on the A1 are 7/32" diameter with 40TPI in front and rear. Still up for debate and proof that Wichita even made swivels during that era??? The Remington 40-X/XB swivels are 1.25" as are the Wichita's used on the M40A1.</div></div> Got some from iron brigade armory and there 1.5 not 1.25 and i thought they were post to be 1.25, guess it doesnt matter,, they will work, thought i was getting 1.25 may have to call them back and see.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Anyone here building M24?

Guy on the 6mmBR board has listed a 7 digit LA .473" action in
like new condition, with some other M24 application parts.
Just a heads up.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bignada</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone here building M24?

Guy on the 6mmBR board has listed a 7 digit LA .473" action in
like new condition, with some other M24 application parts.
Just a heads up. </div></div>

Here is the build thread for the M24.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2058118&page=1
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pre64WINmarksman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pardon my ignorance, what is meant by LA .473". I assume LA is long action. There is (or was) an M24 build thread here on Hide, I'd hope its still up and runnin. </div></div>
.473 is the the bolt face. So you will know what cartridges you can barrel the rifle for without modify the bolt face.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I stumbled in here tonight, and may as well add my experiences.
I attended a USMC Scout/Sniper School at Ewa Beach Hawaii in the fall of 82. Our OIC Lt Tom Kean later went to HQMC and ended up on those "First you take raw steel" commercials and the one where he rides the horse into the chapel in armor. We used to call him "Mr.Look so good". He was a Quantico S/S grad.
We started with 18 selected guys, and graduated 11. All were experienced Infantry.
We completed the school with the M40A1 equipped with a Redfield 3x9. That was the standerd then. We zeroed at 600 yards and had to hold high or low for range, and Kentucky windage for lead and wind. At long ranges, with the Trade Winds blowing your aim point could be 5 feet or much more diagonal from the point of impact. The scopes were beat, and when we ran out and back from the range one day for lunch the internal sleeves and lens elements in one scope fell apart. The LT took it apart with a Hemostat from the Doc, realigned them, and it was back in use. To say they had any nitrogen left in them was a stretch.
The Rifles had a Rem M700 action, A Winchester triggerguard and floorplate (that we put green duct tape on so it wouldn't pop open unexpectedly), that beautiful Macmillian Camo fberglass stock, and a Atkinson Med/Heavy barrel.
There were no lazers then, and all range estimation was with he mil scale in binos, and best guess. We figured the drop and windage by trig on paper.
Shortly after we graduated a team of 2112's came from Quantico and installed the Unertl USMC 10x scope. Only one other guy and myself from the S/S sections were around, because the others went home for Christmas right after Graduation. We got he instruction and zeroed all the rifles for 2 battalions. 16 of them. What a glorious day. It was like going from the stone age to the 21st century. The M49 spotting scope was 20x, and all were well used, like everything else.
I was a 8541 for 5 years, and it was the best job in the Corps. 2 man teams, and we told the officers how we could best support their missions. They learned real quick to trust us. We had the training, were all very smart, had radios, compasses, maps, skills, motivation, and nobody looking over our shoulders.
I can understand the fascination with obtaining a as close ro accurate M40A1. I considered it myself a few times, as well as a 03A5.
It was a log to carry and crawl and stalk with, and because of the safety and ultralight trigger of the M700 we went with a empty spout whenever we moved, only loading when getting ready to shoot. The Team leader had a M16A1, later A2, and I had a self purchased Colt 4x for mine, that I swapped off for a Starlight at night.
We didn't get NVGs or AN/PVS4s (for the M16s) until 1984.
I am still th only guy in my hunting group who doesn't use a scoped rifle for bear or deer. For me, scopes are still only for beyond 400 when hunting big game.
For the record, when Rangers and SF guys got to attend USMC sniper schools they had to borrow a M40A1 to qualify, because the M21 was inadequate for out to 1000 yards.
I used to bust salad plates at 1200 yards with a crosswind when somebody was dumb enough to bet me. I knew how to hold off for elevation and windage, thanks to the Redfields, and could calculate the ballistics in my head or on paper.
 
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Re: M40a1 build guide

I was always wondering why the USMC sticks with the .308 in my opinion its just to weak at over 1000 yards. talking of stopping power, I know you can hit targets at 1200 if you know how to use the system. But whay not a .300 or a .30-06? now that I have an ex marine scout sniper to ask I might just do so
wink.gif
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bunnyack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was always wondering why the USMC sticks with the .308 in my opinion its just to weak at over 1000 yards. talking of stopping power, I know you can hit targets at 1200 if you know how to use the system. But whay not a .300 or a .30-06? now that I have an ex marine scout sniper to ask I might just do so
wink.gif
</div></div>
That's simple. If you are unable to get 7.62 Match or National Match you would be able to go to a Machine Gunner, get a belt of linked ammo, and shoot it. Sure it is a different load, with a 150 gr bullet, but it will fit in the pipe and you could adjust for the different ballistics using the easy adjustments on the Unertl scope, or by Kentucky windage (which is all we had) on the Redfield). You can also mark a target for others with 7.62 tracers, in case somebody might want to wreck it with a Mk19, a Ma Duce, or a 120 on a tank.
Adding a new ammo into the chain of supply, especially when a very limited # of guys use it, and operate in very remote areas (maybe just 2 guys all by themselves for extended periods) is a recipe for disaster. Only one guy in a team carries the Rifle. the other carries a M16A2 and a Night Scope (as well as lots of other gear, like a radio or radios, binos, NV goggles, etc.)
The 7.62 is quite adequate out to at least a thousand yards. Even with a 10x a target that isn't black on white and 5 feet across gets real small and hard to see. And don't forget, S/S carry radios, which can get you anything from Mortars to B-52s on a target. All S/S are very well trained in calling any supporting arms.
The Army has adopted a .300 as I recall. IMO big mistake. The .50s Rifles are monsters, and not something you will be crawling and doing stalks with. that is more of a weapon for supporting a unit you are in the middle of, or for point defense. They are fine for that.
Those Canadians that got that World Record shot were mixed in with US Army, and ran out of their Canadian .50 match ammo in the extended engagement. They were given some US .50 BMG, and it was hotter than their own. By shooting, observing the hits, and using Kentucky windage they managed to use their skills and the time and multiple shots to get lucky. Even they admit that. The US ammo let them reach out farther that their own did.
a 7.62 NATO, though losing speed and dropping prtty steep, is still easily gonna kill you if it hits you. It will still penetrate a steel helmet. It is still supersonic. Think of all the .30 rifles, like mausers, Enfields, Springfields, and Moisin nagants that have sights adjusted for fire out to well beyond 2000 yards. And that is for open sights. Even at those ranges a guy in 1915 could hit the broad side of a barn with a .30 and still kill somebody.
Beyond 1000 yards Snipers with a 7.62 should either use their skills to get themselves in range, or call a F-18 to please drop a JDAM.
600 or 700 yards from a target is ideal. You will get almost every shot in the black, even on moving and surreptisious targets, and any attempts at return fire with small arms will be useless (especially if they are using AKs).
The best weapons a S/S team carry aren't rifles, but their training and skills, and radios, maps, and compasses (or GPS now, I guess). All S/S were screened before selection for the School for high GT scores, and were established and schooled infantrymen of reputation, ability, and potential. There were only 8 billets in a Bn. and they were seldom full complement. It was very hard to pass the school. Nobody got through by cheating or ass kissing. It was too important.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Donttrytorun do you have any pics of the rifles that you guys used? Im looking ot build a M40a1 with a Redfield scope. Did your guys ever paint your 40 with the Redfield scope on it? Thanks for experience your sharing with us.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

The Macmillian fiberglass stock is camo. Look at the pic at the top of the page. That's it, and in better shape than mine ever were. The camo was painted in the material. Many were pretty dark, if you ask me, but that's how they came. The scope was unpainted, and to be honest as i recall they may actually have been Gloss finish! We just wrapped a piece of green of camo netting like you see around some guys necks (like the Brits), around the scope. You saw right through it on the objective side, and it cut down on the chance of anybody seeing a glare or even another sniper seeing that round black hole of a objective looking at them. We used camo stick on the barrel and wrapped a few pieces of jute garnish around the scope and the barrel, between it and the forend. We would slide out the garnish under the free floating barrel before shoot, and that took out and debris that got between them during a crawl and stalk. When shooting, we would turn around our headnets, slow and careful, and cover the action, scope, and part of the barrel with the Ghillie headnet. All you had was about half a camo-sticked barrel sticking out. Like with the netting, you could look right through it and not even know it was there, unless you had a knot in the way. If that happened, you just moved it a inch of so and were good to go.
We used the Redfield in S/S School, and about a month later, if that, we got the Unertl 10X USMC Sniper ones. That was...very end of Nov or beginning of Dec. 82. A team from the Armory in Quantico, the only ones who worked on those rifles, went through the whole FMF and anywhere there were M40A1s and swapped out the scopes and rings. They literally went around the world doing it. After us in KBay I think they went on to Okinawa. I doubt, and hope they didn't, go to the already deployed BLT's on the water. God forbid they should change zeroed scopes in a unit on float, and them not have a chance to zero.
Anything beyond 1st echelon was swapped out with a stock weapon at Quantico. Nobody did repairs or anything beyond cleaning on them. As I recall the rifles cost about $2,700 back then, with a Redfield. At least that's what we were gonna pay if we lost it. With the Unertl the cost went up to almost $5,000.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I have a question about the black oxide finish that was used on the M40a1. The process that was used, was it hot or cold black oxide? How hard would it be to do the cold finish? Is the black oxide still used on the M40a5?

Thanks
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I recently purchased a McMillan stock for my M40A1 project. It came with 1&1/2 in. Wichita swivels. From what I have read, original M40A1's had 1&1/4 in. swivels. Can anyone confirm this? It seems that 1&1/4 in. swivels are not available anywhere. Does anyone know if they even exist? Not a big deal, just curious.

Thanks, Greg V
NewImage-2.jpg
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

IIRC Dick Davis posted on this not too long ago. The Wichita's are 1.5" to allow a 1.25" sling to easily be adjusted. Put a 1.25" sling in a 1.25" loop and it no slide so good.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IIRC Dick Davis posted on this not too long ago. The Wichita's are 1.5" to allow a 1.25" sling to easily be adjusted. Put a 1.25" sling in a 1.25" loop and it no slide so good. </div></div>

Yep 1.5

DSCF0366.jpg
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I bought a pair from Iron brigade armory,and there 1.5, thats what they said went on the m40a1. wichita arms also carrys the 1.5 sling swivels too.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I have a non-milled M40A1 Bottom Metal, I was wondering what on the BM needs to be milled for fittment in a M40A1 return stock? If you have pics or examples please post. Thanks
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Seth8541</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a non-milled M40A1 Bottom Metal, I was wondering what on the BM needs to be milled for fittment in a M40A1 return stock? If you have pics or examples please post. Thanks </div></div>

Short answer: the rear part of the floor plate and the front part of the trigger guard. Here goes a pic showing exactly what.

Top is a set of original bottom metal from a return stock modified to fit the short action inlet, bottom is a fresh set of unmodified Williams 2-piece bottom metal (same as the Win 70).

w45y8.jpg
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Thats just what I was looking for. Thanks. Could you post some measurements for me of what the measurements need to be to fit? I have a buddy with a mill and gonna have him do this for me. Thanks again.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Seth8541</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thats just what I was looking for. Thanks. Could you post some measurements for me of what the measurements need to be to fit? I have a buddy with a mill and gonna have him do this for me. Thanks again. </div></div>

Taking the measurements from my bottom metal and using that for yours could really ruin your bottom metal. The dimensions and screw locations vary slightly, especially with the return stocks, and going off someone else's dimensions could leave you with non-aligning front screw placement on the trigger guard, an overly long, or even worse too short, floor plate after milling.

You really should have a gunsmith that knows about modifying the 2-piece bottom metal for the A1 builds do it. Or if you're intent on doing it yourself, talk to one of them first to see what the best way is. I'm no gunsmith, but if you have a buddy with a mill, I figure the thing to do is first bed the trigger guard and floor plate to the stock so you know where the action screws will hold the bottom metal, and then measure and mark off the points where you'll need to drill the front hole and mill off the front of the trigger guard as well as the back of the floor plate. That should ensure a correct and proper fit. Hope this helps.

Ken
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Thanks Ken for taking the time. I havent yet recieved my stock yet, but when it comes in Ill look at it carefully to see if its something that can be done by me with a mill or if I need to send it off. Thanks again.

Seth
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

If your meaning the front and rear guard screw holes then you will have to do nothing to them as Winchester uses a flat bottom countersunk hole. Not a beveled recess like Remington. The small front screw used in the front of TG however does have a tapered countersink, probably 45*???
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Thankyou.

However, I distinctly remember when I did my build twenty years ago that I had to use an end mill to make the bottoms of the action bolt holes in the trigger guard and floor plate flat and true. Looking at my unmodified pre-64 parts here, they have angled bottoms. Perhaps some newer Winchester parts have the flat bottomed holes?

I've seen some smiths machine the bolt heads to match the angles in the holes, rather than make the holes flat. That's why I'm wondering which way the Marine Corps went.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 10Xview</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thankyou.

However, I distinctly remember when I did my build twenty years ago that I had to use an end mill to make the bottoms of the action bolt holes in the trigger guard and floor plate flat and true. Looking at my unmodified pre-64 parts here, they have angled bottoms. Perhaps some newer Winchester parts have the flat bottomed holes?

I've seen some smiths machine the bolt heads to match the angles in the holes, rather than make the holes flat. That's why I'm wondering which way the Marine Corps went.

</div></div>

This really really is hard for me to say but guess I am full of shit
frown.gif
Was thinking Winny did use a flat bottom hole. After reading your post I went and dug out a new floorplate I have and it is indeed a tapered hole. Guess from now on I need to look first and post later. Sorry for the mistake and depending on my slowly fading memory.

Respectfully,
Dennis
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Does anyone have some pictures of there m40a1 stock where the front wichita swivel is in the stock, (Looking on the inside). I want to see what it looks like on one thats done right so i can make sure i dont mess up. Thanks alot
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone have some pictures of there m40a1 stock where the front wichita swivel is in the stock, (Looking on the inside). I want to see what it looks like on one thats done right so i can make sure i dont mess up. Thanks alot </div></div>

DSCF0369.jpg