M40a1 build guide

Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kft101</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMC Grunt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I also have 2 pairs of Redfield rings, 1 is the top screw and the other bottom screw. I measured the same way as I did the other 2 and found that the bottom screw is (measured from top to bottom) .080. The top screw is measured .083.

So I see that no mounts is actually 1" like they are suppose to be. Im sure that you could lap the rings for a better fit. I remember reading, I think that it was on here, that the USO mounts didnt have to be lapped but guess we could be wrong. </div></div>

Hmm, that's interesting. Are your Redfield rings new manufacture, or old stock?

The real Redfield rings, as well as the USO repro ones, seem pretty thin already and do not look like they have that much metal to give, either for lapping or whatever.

By the way, what would the height be for the Redfield rings used in the A1 mounts, medium or high? Dual dovetail or regular, or either with the bottom cut off and soldered on? And anybody know how the rings were attached to the bases in the original mounts? </div></div>

The ones that I have are old and come to think of it I think that the top screw ones are Leupold. I bought both of those about 3-4 years ago. The height for the rings on the M40a1 are medium. Im going to use the bottom screw mounts for my M40a1/Redfield build. I think there were a couple of different ways that they used to attach them to the base. One was to solder them to the base and I think the other way was to put a pin through the mounts to keep them in the same place.

In the DFA Vol 1 it shows some ways that they were attached. If it was a dovetail mount then underneath it would be bedded. The other mount would be soldered into place. There are pictures on page 67 and 70 that illustrate those 2 points. Ill go through all my books and see if I cant get a better pic for those points.



 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Quick question: I have found a M40A1 stock to replace the A2 I currently have on my way to building a M40A1-inspired rifle, but it has sling swivel studs installed.

Will it be possible to have those removed and have Wichita sling swivels installed, or would I be better off getting another stock?

Thanks for all your help!
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mwhite</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would have the studs removed and the wichita swivels installed on the m40al stock.</div></div>

That was my question, I guess, whether it's possible to remove the studs and install swivels without damaging the stock beyond repair.

Sorry, I have very little experience with these stocks. I assumed it would be no problem to do it, but I've been wrong before.

Good news, because the stock I have looks very much like a return stock, and I'm happy to use it instead of a new production one.

Thanks!
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Yes it is possible to remove the studs from your stock, but the wichitas wont screw back in in there place, they (wichitas) have a different thread and insert than the ones thats on your stock now. I would send the stock to someone like (G A precision) and have them to install them for you and it will be done the right way, thats what they do and they really do good work.I wouldnt take a chance of messing up your good stock.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

great to see this thread going again, anyone know where id get a bottom metal that was used. I know you can buy them from Williams but I would like an issued one if poss? Ive seen them for sale with Return stocks
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Hi my name is Adam

I am very new to this sort of stuff and are in the process of building a m40a3 to the closest form can anyone give me some help or specs that would be very much appreciated.

Thank You

Regards
Adam
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adam1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi my name is Adam

I am very new to this sort of stuff and are in the process of building a m40a3 to the closest form can anyone give me some help or specs that would be very much appreciated.

Thank You

Regards
Adam </div></div>

Adam, this is the page with the info you want:

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1113886&page=1
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Was recently looking at an issue of Guns & Ammo from January 1968 which contains an article by James D Mason on the first Remington 700 sniper rifle built to Marine specifications.

The rifle illustrated shows a plain ADL type stock, but without checkering and adapted to floorplate rather than a blind magazine. Rifle was built with 40x 27.25" barrel and standard (looks like SA) action. Stock does not have QD sling studs. Rifle shown looks nothing like the Remington commemorative stock or those many have touted with wider beavertail forend, like a plain varmint special stock. Stock does have the same raised cheekpiece with rear slope-down to rear butt area.

Article begins on page 23 also has a pic of this rifle outfitted with infra-red lamp (the metascope?) and the 9903 sniper scope which together weighed about 25lbs. The rifle is described as being used with this outfit for defensive purposes. When deployed in the field, the scope used was the Redfield 3-9x with accutrac reticle. All including scope were parkerize finished.

Been meaning to add this to the thread. Not like too many here likely have the magazine...
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

For starters, this is an M40A1 thread, not an M40 thread. There is one here somewhere, but I cant find it right now.

In regards to the M40 questions, I highly reccommend buying and reading Peter Senich's "One Round War." It is exrtemely informative on the development of both the M40 and the M40A1. I believe he also sites that article from 1968 in the book, amongst others.

Regards,
DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Anyone have the specs for the EFR used on current gen M40s? Are barrel mods required to clear it? How is it spaced from the receiver?
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lw8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone have the specs for the EFR used on current gen M40s? Are barrel mods required to clear it? How is it spaced from the receiver? </div></div>


Anybody?
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lw8</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lw8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone have the specs for the EFR used on current gen M40s? Are barrel mods required to clear it? How is it spaced from the receiver? </div></div>


Anybody? </div></div>

You'd probably get a more prompt response if the question was posted in an appropriate thread, such as the M40A3/A5 build thread.

But to answer your question, the current generation M40s use the PGW EFR. No "step" cut or other modification is needed, as the inner diameter channel of the PGW EFR is wide enough for the barrel to clear through as it is.

And I'm not sure by what you mean as to how it's spaced from the receiver. The EFR is simply bedded into the front end of the stock.

Hope this helps.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D_TROS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.rwsgunsmithing.com/catalog/remington-m40-era-rifle

good deal on a 6-digit if anyone interested. Would make a great startin point.

Regards,
DT </div></div>

I picked up a six digit .243 ADL like this (S/N: 211XXX) from a local pawn shop for $350 and it came with an old Banner 3 x 9 of the same vintage.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Well, sent off my build to GAP. Thanks to this thread/site, it will be to spec as possible. Have been collecting the components for awhile and finally sent it off to be assembled. Time flys when ur having fun.

Will post pics when I get it back. Prob be 3-6 months min.

Regards,
DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I spoke to Ken at GAP inquiring about their M40A1 build and he informed me that their new build will not have the Winchester modified bottom metal. It is my understanding, correct me if i'm wrong, that they are using their own bottom metal floorplate.Has anyone have a recent new build with this bottom metal? Can you post pic?
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Need some opinions here. U.S. Optics is about to put the serial # my MST-100, but they can't use the last four digits of my rifles serial #.

Would you guys have them just use a random 4 digit #, no serial #, or the full 6 digit serial numbet to match the rifle's #?

Thanks, Greg V
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2829780#Post2829780


Hey guys, in dire need here.

Last week I sent off my early 6-digit action to GAP to be assembled. Ser# 192407

I also ordered one of the USO MST-100 scopes with the custom serial number 2407 to match my action last March.

<span style="font-weight: bold"> </span> TODAY <span style="font-weight: bold"> </span> USO called me, after multiple emails letting me know the serial number was available, telling me I have to pick a new serial number, and to let them know right away because they are engraving.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">I NEED SOMEONE</span> willing to trade me actions, or let me know where one is for sale. I already lost my ass once on a MST once because I bought when they said they were never to make anymore, and I sold it way less than I paid because I wanted a ser. number that matched my action. (had to match market price)

I have a pristine action I bought from 7mm here on the hide.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2351367


I had my smith clip-slot the action. If ANYONE has a 6-digit in the appropiate range that has their build on hold and willing to trade, I would <span style="font-weight: bold">greatly appreciate it</span>. If you dont want to trade, I will pay. But if you trade, you will make out ahead due to action already being slotted.

I am double screwed because GAP as well as USO IS waiting on me. I am seriously sick of being jerked around by USO and this will be my last transaction with them. I can only lose so much money by a company not standing by their words.

Regards,
DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

GregV: I worked under the miss-impression that a scope sn was related to the rifle sn. In pursuit of a pure clone this is not "correct." When I thought about this in a historical context, how could anyone get Unertl (and later USO) and Remington to coordinate their productions lines this way. The bottom line is that they didn't, so if you're attempting to be a "purist" in your clone build the rifle sn and scope sn have no relationship. One might consider this to be a "cool" feature, but not authentic. I can't take credit for this revelation, George @ GAP helped me along.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D_TROS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">




I am double screwed because GAP as well as USO IS waiting on me. I am seriously sick of being jerked around by USO and this will be my last transaction with them.</div></div>

I think I know what you mean. I hardly feel like royalty when I talk with them on the phone. They treat me like I'm buying a $300 scope instead of a $3000 scope.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Same thing happened with my serial number. I just found out today that they U.S. Optics can't match my rifle's last 4 digits.

I think I'm just going to come up with and 4 digit number that U.S.O. will use, and call it good. I think it's better to have a 4 digit # on the scope than the rifle's full 6 digit #.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 10Xview</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D_TROS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">




I am double screwed because GAP as well as USO IS waiting on me. I am seriously sick of being jerked around by USO and this will be my last transaction with them.</div></div>
I think I know what you mean. I hardly feel like royalty when I talk with them on the phone. They treat me like I'm buying a $300 scope instead of a $3000 scope. </div></div>



Haha you think that is bad...ask em for a REFUND!!!!! You think you have heartburn now???? Hahaha
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Ha, sorry Greg, I didnt even read the post above mine. Didnt mean to claim jump.

I wonder why they told us the numbers no longer available. I seriously doubt that they actually used the number, seems more like covering their asses for the scopes number and a number that may have been issued years ago. They should have EVERY serial number they have issued/made, and be able to tell us with more certainty what numbers are available, as I doubt they made 3700 scopes. SO SO weak.

I was seriously leaning to useing the whole ser number.

Ha. Heart burn. tell me about it.

DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

DT,

No problem at all. I don't feel that you claim jumped me. It's all the same topic anyway. I guess USO made some calls today!

I like the idea of using the middle 4 numbers. Maybe those are available, although mine's pretty low at 2156. I don't know what the deal is with USO and their numbers. I guess they have already used each our numbers on one of their scopes. I do have to say though that they have been really nice to me when I have called.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2ballcane</div><div class="ubbcode-body">GregV: I worked under the miss-impression that a scope sn was related to the rifle sn. I pursuit of a pure clone this is not "correct." When I thought about this in a historical context, how could anyone get Unertl (and later USO) and Remington to coordinate their productions lines this way. The bottom line is that they didn't, so if you're attempting to be a "purist" in your clone build the rifle sn and scope sn have no relationship. One might consider this to be a "cool" feature, but not authentic. I can't take credit for this revelation, George @ GAP helped me along. </div></div>

Interesting point. Very much food for thought. Something I wished I considered before I sold my other MST to get a matched number one.

If I go with the middle numbers, it will appear random, yet still hold some value as a matched one.

ANd I decided that the whole 6-digits is prob not a good idea. Better to stay 4.

Hmmm...
_DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Put a number on it and call it good. What happened when they needed to swap out parts? XX out the old ones and stamped new numbers. However, pretty sure they didn't do that with the scopes. Recorded rifle number XXXX has scope number RRRR and all was fine. Soon as stuff started to get swapped around this would have been the case.
Good luck, other than long wait, I've not been at all unhappy with USO.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I have a small understanding of the sn scenario. it appears unertl started their gi MST contract @ sn 1000; and they made something less than 2000 units. When USO started making them they jumped to the next 1000 mark (3000) to avoid sn duplication.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

Back in March or April, I heard that they were making a run of 100 units. I gave them a call, and sure enough, they were. I ordered one at $2850. It should be done in a couple of months. I don't know if they are still taking ordrs, but you might give them a call.

Still shows them on their website: http://www.usoptics.com/product.php?partnumber=MST-100

The website shows $2750, but I'm pretty sure it was $2850.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I believe the heart symbol stamped on remington barrels, was to signified function and accuracy. Go to the m40 build guide and they talk about it in there.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

my return stock I just sent off actually had a bipod stud in front of the sling swivel. I received it this way from mcmillian. I told GAP to remove it, but obviously, poeple were installing them in the field. I have read other posts confirming the same, that people were adding studs for bipod.

You could add a stud, and some people have done so with good results.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...553#Post1077553


Regards,
DT
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

I actually have two made to correct threads to screw in where the sling came out of. They were not cheap but they work great and doesn't ruin the stock.
 
Re: M40a1 build guide

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: signal211</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any way to put a harris bipod on a USMC take off stock? I have a clone but was wondering if a bipod could be added with out tearing up the stock. </div></div>

While this is not a USMC return it was easy.

Measure 5 times, drill once. I ordered a swivel stud from McMillan and did this a few years ago.

Improve accuracy? Sure....look good? No.

But it does improve accuracy and I could see some Marines doing it to help out.

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