Rifle Scopes New Meopta Scope - Optika6

Hello

What do you think about the longevity of the rubbers that cover the turrets, parallax and zoom ring. When buying mine I did not take it into consideration but now I think it will be a problem in the long term.

How many years do you think they will last before cracking or clearing?



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Regards
 
Haven't had any issues with mine, and the rubber seems high quality. I do baby my equipment however. I don't expect to have any issues with the mag ring or turrets. If I had concerns of something going first it would probably be the rubber eye piece.
 
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I have the 5-30 MRAD my windage does not lock....I have about 2200 rounds fired on mine....I have beaten the heck out of this scope and today during a short sight in on a new barrel the parallax rubber grip is really loose and spinning. It didn't take much for it to fall off. Not sure if I should glue it back on or what....I am really new to PRS so I'm still not as "smooth" as most so this thing has taken a beating...Love the scope though
Hello

What did Meopta tell you, that repair is covered by the lifetime warranty?

Regards.
 
PARALLAX ERROR.

Playing with my new Optika6 last night (while waiting for my rifle to arrive), I was practicing eliminating the parallax error on a target at 755 yards (690m), set the dial slightly above the 500 mark, but the error did not disappear, it increased to infinity and the error persisted, then I started to decrease and the error disappeared under the 500 mark.

Someone with the same experience? Could it be a printing error in the position of the marks on the dial?

Video-Capture-20210402-012712.jpg
Captura-de-pantalla-2021-04-02-115227.jpg


With parallax error.................................................................Without parallax error
20210402-005744-2.jpg
20210402-011133-2.jpg


Regards.
 
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PARALLAX ERROR.

Playing with my new Optika6 last night (while waiting for my rifle to arrive), I was practicing eliminating the parallax error on a target at 755 yards (690m), set the dial slightly above the 500 mark, but the error did not disappear, it increased to infinity and the error persisted, then I started to decrease and the error disappeared under the 500 mark.

Someone with the same experience? Could it be a printing error in the position of the marks on the dial?

Video-Capture-20210402-012712.jpg
Captura-de-pantalla-2021-04-02-115227.jpg


With parallax error Without parallax error
20210402-005744-2.jpg
20210402-011133-2.jpg


Regards.
This is not unusual and in fact may be more common than the situation wherein parallax numbers on the dial exactly match the distance that you are shooting. This is across all scopes and brands, in general and is a combination of things. One important factor that affects parallax settings is where you have the diopter set for your eyes and vision.

It does vary somewhat between brands and models of scope, but it is not something that should matter much, in my opinion. I do not look at where the numbers are on my focus dial. I pay attention to the sight picture while on the scope.
 
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This is not unusual and in fact may be more common than the situation wherein parallax numbers on the dial exactly match the distance that you are shooting. This is across all scopes and brands, in general and is a combination of things. One important factor that affects parallax settings is where you have the diopter set for your eyes and vision.

It does vary somewhat between brands and models of scope, but it is not something that should matter much, in my opinion. I do not look at where the numbers are on my focus dial. I pay attention to the sight picture while on the scope.
Hi
I appreciate your answer clarifies some doubts.
In my case the diopter setting is at zero (I have no vision problems).
I use the dial marks as a first reference, but I never believed that the correct setting was so wrong from those references.

Regards.
 
It’s not necessary wrong. You have a graduation line at 500 then the next is infinity. You also don’t have it mounted on a rifle so your eye relative to the scope isn’t consistent.

Some manufacturers don’t even put numbers on the dial, rather a graphic indicating from close to far.

Fear not, put it on the rifle when it shows up and tune parallax for target clarity. Ignore the numbers.
 
Now don’t go running off with buyers remorse.

Respectfully, your kinda not wanting to see what we’re telling you. Just wait until it’s all together.

I’ll give you this. You claim to have perfect eyesight, that’s nice I do not. If you set the parallax at a given range to look perfect for you, and I then got on that rifle looking at the same target, I may have to change parallax to suit me.

My head position, the eye relief, etc will be different. We’re not all built the same.

Many lower power scopes have no parallax adjustment at all. They’re “fixed” at a predetermined point.

I’m not defending your optic, I do not have a Meopta scope. Again, respectfully you not far enough into this to make a true determination, and frankly it’s irrelevant.

Those numbers are a guide, not an absolute. They cannot be an absolute because of the other variables that exist.
 
I have 2 Optika6 scopes in 5-30 FFP. Love them and have used them out to 900m so far. I’ll getting a chance to use them out 1200yds in the coming weeks, I’m curious to know if anyone else has had a chance to use them at the extended ranges and how did they perform?
 
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PARALLAX ERROR.

Playing with my new Optika6 last night (while waiting for my rifle to arrive), I was practicing eliminating the parallax error on a target at 755 yards (690m), set the dial slightly above the 500 mark, but the error did not disappear, it increased to infinity and the error persisted, then I started to decrease and the error disappeared under the 500 mark.

Someone with the same experience? Could it be a printing error in the position of the marks on the dial?

Video-Capture-20210402-012712.jpg
Captura-de-pantalla-2021-04-02-115227.jpg


With parallax error.................................................................Without parallax error
20210402-005744-2.jpg
20210402-011133-2.jpg


Regards.
Which model of Optika6 and reticle is this?
 
I got out to 1200yrd for a comp and was using the Optika6. Conditions left to right wind gusting from 7-10mph temp about 21deg Celsius. The target was an ICFRA 1000yd target face.

The full power 30x zoom wasn’t overly useful in most instances with very thick mirage. The scope didn’t cut through it too well at those mags and distances. I ran most of the weekend at about 14-17x zoom and the sight picture was very good to excellent. Parallax was set to just above 500m, I didn’t max it out. There was a lot of fine dust around and the scope didn’t miss a beat. Most of the time my windage was at 1.5-1.7mil left with slight hold off.

Overall, the scope was fantastic. Very happy with it. I was competing F-open so against custom action 7SAUMs on 25lb-30lb rifles with monster seb rests... versus my factory Howa action with a medium Palma barrel, in a KRG bravo chassis sitting on a Harris Bipod and SOE rear squeeze bag😁 came last... but had a blast.
 
What do you think guys of this 5-30x56 scope with MRAD reticle vs The Delta Javelin?

I am to choose between this and the new Delta Javelin 4.5-30x56 scope.
Which would you choose? Mainly all-range stationary target shooting. Little hunting, very little nighttime.

According to the reviews, Meopta has better turret feel, supposedly european made, and the turret slop seems to be remedied as per the users.

The Javelin also seems to have nice glass, Ares ETR similarities, but very stiff easily skipped clicks, the turrets may not have the slop (although no expert tested it yet), but Chinese made. I am not concerned about it, but still I'd prefer to support the european industry.

Thanks,
siletto
 
What do you think guys of this 5-30x56 scope with MRAD reticle vs The Delta Javelin?

I am to choose between this and the new Delta Javelin 4.5-30x56 scope.
Which would you choose? Mainly all-range stationary target shooting. Little hunting, very little nighttime.

According to the reviews, Meopta has better turret feel, supposedly european made, and the turret slop seems to be remedied as per the users.

The Javelin also seems to have nice glass, Ares ETR similarities, but very stiff easily skipped clicks, the turrets may not have the slop (although no expert tested it yet), but Chinese made. I am not concerned about it, but still I'd prefer to support the european industry.

Thanks,
siletto
I went with the Meopta, as that is what they had on hand :D

Looks like I'll join the club soon!
 
Have there been any upgrades to the daytime illumination on the 1-6 models? I was ready to buy one but that’s a issue I hope Meopta has done something about.
 
Thanks for reply.
I decided to give their 3-18x56 Mrad 1 version a try and ordered one today. I don’t need that to be daylight bright since it’s going on a AR DMR type build. . I am still in the market for a LPVO and will probably go with a Trijicon 1-6.
The 3-18 looks good on paper for the price
 
Thanks for reply.
I decided to give their 3-18x56 Mrad 1 version a try and ordered one today. I don’t need that to be daylight bright since it’s going on a AR DMR type build. . I am still in the market for a LPVO and will probably go with a Trijicon 1-6.
The 3-18 looks good on paper for the price
Same here - ordered 3-18x56 FFP MRAD - mostly because of opinions in this forum. I was thinking 4.5-27x50, but 18x should be plenty enough for my wannabe-DMR AR15.
 
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Same here - ordered 3-18x56 FFP MRAD - mostly because of opinions in this forum. I was thinking 4.5-27x50, but 18x should be plenty enough for my wannabe-DMR AR15.

I had the same hang up on 18x vs 27x but it’s going on a 16in Larue Match Upper and will be shot often at 300m and occasionally 600+ . I didn’t want to go much longer since it will be suppressed. I have only gotten to play with the scope outside for a min so it’s not fair to give an detailed opinion yet. I do live up on a hill and just a tic past a mile is a road sign I can zoom in on. Just doing that it seems to have very good resolution. As soon as my mount gets here I will be able to get some range time. I do with there was a option for a exposed windage dial vs capped. That’s really my only gripe, but for the price and my intended use I’m good.
 
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I have been working with, not for, Meopta for 3 years now and they are making changes that you all have asked about. As for the Optika6 1-6x24 being daylight bright, it isn't red dot bright but on cloudy days I can easily see the dot on cardboard targets when competing in carbine matches. My son liked mine so much he now has the same scope on his rifle. I have the 3-18's on a few AR's and 1 bolt action .308 Win. and I have zero complaints. I have a 4.5-27x50 on a 6.5 CM AR and love it. It is responsible for 6 swine and 4 coyotes demise. Will get a chance to really stretch out the Creedmoor this Spring. Remember that Meopta is a big supporter of LE/Mil/First Responders too. Reach out to me with any questions and I'll do what I can to get you answers.
 
Is it possible to “convert”to a exposed windage turret vs capped on a 3-18x-56?
At this point I just wanna know if it’s possible
 
Thanks
Not really important but it’s nice to know the info.
So far I really like the scope more than my pst gen2 which are both great at that 1k and under price.
 
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Hi all,

Did we ever come to a definitive answer to where these are actually made?

The fact the the scope does not seem to have a 'Made In' sticker anywhere on it and the price makes me wonder. I also remember reading somewhere that someone emailed Meopta about it and the reply was they were made in asia which could be any number of countries.
 

These scopes are assembled in the Czech Republic but some parts are outsourced from Asia.




Q: Where was my Meopta made?

A: All of our optics are made at our facilities in the Czech Republic and the U.S.A.
 
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That's good to know thanks.

Seems to tick a lot of boxes. Plus it is even available at a reasonable price down here in Australia.


I’ve been able to use mine for about a dozen range sessions. I know that’s not a lot by SH standards.
My bottom line opinion is I just don’t think your getting a better scope for the price point. I know there’s a possibility there could be something Chinese related in just about any scope, but I will not buy one labeled made in China. I know there are some popular scopes from there that may compete so I just want to be clear I’m excluded them.
My only complaint with my Optika would be with the turrets. The scope tracks and the turrets certainly have a positive detent but they have quite a bit of sloppy free play between the clicks.
At the price point it’s a non issue for me as that is a OCD issue.
I encourage you to try one out if you haven’t already done so.
 
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I’ve been able to use mine for about a dozen range sessions. I know that’s not a lot by SH standards.
My bottom line opinion is I just don’t think your getting a better scope for the price point. I know there’s a possibility there could be something Chinese related in just about any scope, but I will not buy one labeled made in China. I know there are some popular scopes from there that may compete so I just want to be clear I’m excluded them.
My only complaint with my Optika would be with the turrets. The scope tracks and the turrets certainly have a positive detent but they have quite a bit of sloppy free play between the clicks.
At the price point it’s a non issue for me as that is a OCD issue.
I encourage you to try one out if you haven’t already done so.

Unfortunately for Meopta , the FFP scope field in the sub 1000$ range is probably the most rapidly evolving of all, and while Optika 6 was the hot thing when unveiled these days i wouldn't even take it into consideration, would rather take Element optics Titan or Vector Continental
It doesn't help that Meopta couldn't deliver (had an Optika 6 on order for 4 months before canceling) and poor reticle choices
 
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I have the Optika6 3-18x50 and Element Titan 3-18x50. I plan to compare them.

With Optika6, I do not have any real confirmation where it is made, but usually, if there is no "Made In" label on the product, that means it is made primarily in China. I'd be very surprised if there is anything other than QC done in Czech. That having been said, in this price range, it is hard to avoid that. There are a couple of options from the Phillipines (PST Gen2, PA GLx, Sightron S-Tac), but the rest are from China.

I do like Optika6 scopes and I have both the 3-18x50 and 5-30x56. I have not seen anything in the sub-$1k price range to make them obsolete, but there is definitely a lot more competition now. Optika6 5-30x56, Ares ETR 4.5-30x56, Delta Javelin 4.5-30x56 all look, to me, like they come from the same OEM and all three are rather nice scopes.
With Element Titan, it is not clear whether it is the same OEM or not, but it definitely goes after the same market and looks to be built to a somewhat similar quality standard.
Arken EP5 is a little less expensive, but scopes like the EP5 and Strike Eagle 5-25x should sorta be in the same conversation. I did compare the Striker Eagle to the Optika6 a while back, so I know how they stack up.

ILya
 
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Besides Element Titan if you can, take a peek at Vector Continental 3-18x50 FFP , it seems to be gaining a lot of popularity lately while Meopta remains a rare bird .
 
I have the 3-18x50 with the MRAD1 RD that I use on my AR10 and love the reticle honestly. Zero complaints although after ordering an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56, the Cronus is actually a bit smaller in overall size. But the glass is just as good as the Cronus which is made in Japan by LOW. Granted, we're looking at a different magnification range but I was sort of stunned when I went from the Cronus to the Meopta at about the same magnification settings, especially given the price disparity.
 
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My Optika6 3-18x50 with MRAD1 reticle arrives today.

The reticle diagram (see attachment) does not answer four questions I have, or, if it does, I cannot find the answers due to the diagram's complicated nature.

To anyone who owns one, and also @koshkin, I have four questions (see other attachment).

1. Space between the end of horizontal MRAD stadia and the beginning of horse shoe -- "A" -- is? (I think .2 MRAD)

2. Space between the beginning of the inside of the horse shoe and the beginning of the crosshair dash -- "B" -- is? (I think .6 MRAD)

3. Width of the crosshair dash -- "C" -- is? (I think .2 MRAD)

4. Space between the end of the crosshair dash and the center of the center dot -- "D" -- is? (I think .2 MRAD)

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thank you.

-Stan
 

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I have the 3-18x50 with the MRAD1 RD that I use on my AR10 and love the reticle honestly. Zero complaints although after ordering an Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56, the Cronus is actually a bit smaller in overall size. But the glass is just as good as the Cronus which is made in Japan by LOW. Granted, we're looking at a different magnification range but I was sort of stunned when I went from the Cronus to the Meopta at about the same magnification settings, especially given the price disparity.

Meopta glass quality has always been good even the "cheap" stuff. Durability is a different story, I've broken a couple pairs of their cheaper binos and one of their cheaper scopes. The more expensive binoculars and hunting scopes seem to be good to go though.
 
Stanley, I think your numbers are correct, or at least correct to my old eyes. Yes, there are a lot of measurements but I am sure that is one of the reasons that you chose that particular reticle. You can also find that scope and reticle combo in Strelok Pro in case you want to enter your ballistic data for drops. I find that app invaluable and Igor the owner is incredibly helpful.
 

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Stanley, I think your numbers are correct, or at least correct to my old eyes. Yes, there are a lot of measurements but I am sure that is one of the reasons that you chose that particular reticle. You can also find that scope and reticle combo in Strelok Pro in case you want to enter your ballistic data for drops. I find that app invaluable and Igor the owner is incredibly helpful.

Thank you @bman940!

I got my numbers from printing the reticle as large as I could on a piece of paper, measuring my areas of interest with calipers, and then comparing the sizes to other parts of the reticle that were clearly described on the Meopta diagram. Not bad for kitchen table math even if I do say so myself. :)

I have Strelok Pro and will build my ballistic data this evening.

Thank you again.

-Stan
 
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