I’m getting pretty much the same out of my .308 Cross running a can. Right around 2600 fps with 165s and 168s over Varget and Ramshot TAC.
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.308 is on my mind. I don't reload .308 so that is the main reason why I prefer to stick with 6.5 since I reload for that caliber and have plenty of components.Ok, I can understand wanting 6.5 CM over .308 for most uses, but if that power factor is really a driving requirement, it seems like pretty much any .308 hand load would meet it. Power factor favors bullet weight, so, you might be able to get over the ~2,435 fps needed with something like the 156gr EOL. If you have some RL26 you should be able to make that PF with anything 140gr and up. I'm planning on trying some 147gr ELDs with RL16 today, if I do, I'll post up the velocities I get.
Are you talking about the handguard?Has anyone done a video or picture sequence of the extension removal?
I'm dumb. What's the extension?No, he's talking about the extension
Looks similar to this one. The barrel screws into it.I'm dumb. What's the extension?
It is quite literally the only thing I have not taken apart on the rifle.Looks similar to this one. The barrel screws into it.
Re: the handguard alignment... I have a few rifles/handguards that attach similarly to the Cross (I have a Cross too) and that type of handguard is a pain in the ass to get dead-center. There's enough deflection available when the screws aren't tight that you can move the handguard quite a bit in any direction, then when you tighten down the screws they don't really self-center things like you'd think they would. What you've gotta do is kind of a guess-and-check thing where you hold or preload the handguard in one direction, then carefully go around and snug down the screws and see if it looks centered before tightening them fully. With some time you can get it pretty much right on. On the other hand, if it's off a bit it doesn't make any difference in how the rifle shoots, it just looks bad.I unscrewed the handguard and 1 screw on the optic mount. I re-aligned the handguard and it seems better now. It's not perfect though nowhere near as noticeable.
I called Sig service and sent pics. They said they would gladly take a look and address everything though it would likely be a 3 week turnaround.
The rep suggested I try and remove any high spots off the crown with some 0000 steel wool and oil and if it shoots wonky they would take it in. He made notes on my serial # that this was damage done before shooting or using it.
So service-wise I feel like I've been taken care of.
I have to get my optic on and hit the range to see what it does.
Don’t know why you would, unless you are replacing the barrel or had a headspace problem.It is quite literally the only thing I have not taken apart on the rifle.
Because I can...and if truly modular and user serviceable as Sig states, then why not?Don’t know why you would, unless you are replacing the barrel or had a headspace problem.
Fucking up your headspace comes to mind, but if you have the equipment, skill and know how then I guess you could consider it user serviceable.Because I can...and if truly modular and user serviceable as Sig states, then why not?
This might be a rehash of somewhere else in this long thread but here it goes.Has anyone done a video or picture sequence of the extension removal?
Thanks for that explanation and pics.This might be a rehash of somewhere else in this long thread but here it goes.
First, if you don't know how to properly barrel a bolt gun I don't recommend you do this. Take it to a gunsmith and let them do it. You can pull off the extension nut and reinstall per the Sig manual all you want but once you touch the barrel nut knowledge of headspacing and the proper tools and techniques come into play. If you do it wrong you're asking for trouble including injury or worse. TAKE IT TO A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH. My post is not an instruction manual. It's just for information.
Ok, Sig's design is somewhat unique in the fact that it uses two separate nuts that DON'T interface or touch each other. Essentially one nut, I'll call it the extension nut, holds the barrel extension to the receiver. The other nut is the barrel nut. The barrel nut operates exactly the same way as a regular barrel nut from a Savage, Remage, Howage and so on except that it secures the barrel to an extension instead of a receiver. Both nuts interface the extension on the same shoulder (but don't overlap or touch) and have very different purposes. Using a 12 point, 1 - 1/16" box end wrench you can actually remove the barrel from the extension while the extension is still installed and secured by the extension nut in the receiver.
This rifle is getting a new 6CM barrel and while it's apart I thought I would take some pics. It was originally a 308. Shockingly there doesn't seem to be any pics of the extension or how it works with the receiver on the internet. At least I could not find any. Once last note, when I was disassembling this gun both the extension nut and barrel nut were not even close to being tight. This might explain why some rifles are not grouping well or have off center barrels. Also, check your crown, this rifle was not crowned at all. It actually had a burr that was wearing down when I noticed it. Crowning a barrel is pretty easy and it did improve the accuracy but the main accuracy culprit of this rifle I suspect was the loose nuts.
I hope these pics help answer questions.
Thanks for that explanation and pics.
Would you mind giving your opinion on my above picture with the damaged crown face?
Would you re-crown it? I have an 11 degree crowning kit from Manson ( I could also send back to Sig, wait 3 weeks and see what comes back)
FYI, I'm not a gunsmith. The gunsmith that taught me how to do basic barrel work was a stickler about the crown so I'm a little sensitive to it. Since recrowning is very easy and it doesn't take much to get a great result I would recrown if it were my rifle. However, if you do it remember that Sig might not warranty the gun in the future.
I don't know anything about a Manson kit but I bet it would make a nice improvement to the crown. I use a 45 degree Brownells cutter with Ultra S/P cutting oil and the appropriate caliber pilot. Then I lightly lap with 600 grit lapping compound and a brass lapping radius tool. I prefer my crowns to be a little deeper so I can see the transition better. I also use a magnifying glass to ensure any minute burr is removed by the lapping. It usually only requires a light touch spun with the fingers a few times.
Below is the before and after. The after shot was just taken with about 250 rounds after the crown work.
I hope this helps.
JB
That looks great.
The damage on mine isn't close to the center of the barrel. It's more the flats I'm concerned with. Maybe I'll give Manson Reamers a call.
My 11 degree cutter would remove the recess of the muzzle and it would end up being like this:
Those little dings aren't going to have any effect. It is purely cosmetic that far away from the bore.Thanks for that explanation and pics.
Would you mind giving your opinion on my above picture with the damaged crown face?
Would you re-crown it? I have an 11 degree crowning kit from Manson ( I could also send back to Sig, wait 3 weeks and see what comes back)
Agreed. Those blemishes on the edge won’t affect anything. My barrel had no crown at all. Just a burr from where the target recess was machined.Those little dings aren't going to have any effect. It is purely cosmetic that far away from the bore.
you going to be the first person to SBR a Sig Cross?Anyone think a 8.6 Blk cross would be a good hog hunting setup? A 12 inch barrel should lighten it up and put a bunch of energy downrange. Also having the option of subsonic rounds could be another option. Thoughts?
Special can? Seems like there's a ton of 35 cans out now and you can get a MG7k 338 for $500 msrpI dont like the idea of projectile prices and a special can just for a short range round. Hard pass on the hype.
Would a receiver lapping tool for AR’s work on the cross?So I guess this is a warning for potential Cross buyers.
I received the rifle back from Sig. They aligned the handguard, but the misalignment of the scope interface to my zero is still way off. Sig CS communicated that it was “acceptable.”When asked to define acceptable, the answer was lacking as they only mentioned a Sig Tango 6 was able to zero the rifle at 25 yds. No info was given on the amount of windage left and right. I’m assuming their Tango 6 is a 34mm tube. My EOTECH Vudu could zero too but was grossly off center.
After receiving the rifle back and using a vortex LHT 4.5-22 and a LHT 3-15, I have .6 mils of travel right (4.5-22) and .4 mils of travel to right with the (3-15). With the 4.5-22, this leaves 12.6 mils left for travel and more than that for the 3-15. This is still grossly out of alignment.
This measurement was achieved by using two different Seekins rings options. Using the same combination(s) on my Tikka T3, both scopes are almost dead center in their windage.
SIG’s repairs were able to gain me about .6 mils with aligning the handguard, which strengthens, for me, the case that the rail to barrel alignment interface is WAY OFF.
Not sure on my next step. I’ll recontact SIG, but I may have to settle for using a 35mm tube scope. I have a friend who just bought a CROSS, and he had similar issues with alignment. His rifle is not as bad as mine, but it was way off too. I’m curious if anyone else has issues.
I’m pretty diassapointed in SIG as I wrote a detailed letter explaining the issues. I would have liked to known their windage numbers before they sent it back to me as the whole point of this rifle was to use lighter 1” or 30mm scopes on a hunting rifle.
I should have bought another T3x in super light trim.
Blessings,
BC
What if the problem is with the rail and not whether the barrel is centered in the receiver?Would a receiver lapping tool for AR’s work on the cross?
I wonder how that would effect headspace
I'm not familiar with this stuff so go easy.Cross carbon barrels.
CarbonSIX Products - Schnee
schnees.com
These videos compare cf barrels and also explain their benefits. Hope this helpsI'm not familiar with this stuff so go easy.
Is the intent behind a carbon sleeved barrel just weight savings? Is it significant?
Any downsides to them other than the $800 price tag?
These videos compare cf barrels and also explain their benefits. Hope this helps