New Sig CROSS

Sig Cross 6.5 here. Purchased new, so far 70 rounds fired.

Is anybody else seeing feeding issues with the Lapua 6.5 SRP brass? It seems that Lapua brass base is just few mils too wide for the extractor to slide over the rim. So round comes out from the magazine, chambers but bolt cannot be closed.

Same rifle feeds and fires Hornady cases fine.

If you are seeing feeding success with Lapua brass, could you please report the base diameter.
 
Redneck obviously was biased from the start and is a Q fanboy. I work in a shop and have seen far more Fix’s with issues than Crosses. We have a Fix on consignment right now because it light strikes more than it fires and when it does fire the owner said he was lucky if it was MOA. No help from Q at all except use softer primers and when he asked what is softer than Gold Medal Match they didn’t have an answer.

We have multiple Cross in stock now and none have sloppy stocks. I know multiple people with them that have never had stock issues. I’m not saying they aren’t out there, but don’t believe they’re as common as being implied.

The guns are not crap. They are solid sin $2k guns that will shoot very well with the right ammo.

Does Sig sometimes push shit out before they should and let customers test for them, sure as hell do, they aren’t the best out there by any means. But the across is a good gun for the money and someone here just sounds plain but hurt about something and trying to waste Sig in the process.

Yeah that’s it, I’m just a Q fanboy who currently owns zero Q’s and bought this turd over a Q because I wanted it to work 😂😂

Gun counter people are as credible as a Biden administration press secretary.
 

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I think Kevin's products are assembled at the Summers Eve plant. 😂 I refuse to own anything with his name or brand on it. Plus, his cans suck...They're overpriced, and not that quiet. And I agree, reading all that dude's posts on this thread are both hilarious and give me a migraine, wondering why he sold the 2 FIX rifles he said he had, if they were so perfect? You don't sell perfectly good guns unless you need money. Sounds like he isn't lacking in that department, so I am a bit curious. He also stated last year in the Texas Suppressors Deregulation thread that he supported suppressors to continue being on the NFA registry because criminals might be using them more in crimes... 🙄

I own ZERO Sig products, and never have owned one. Never liked them, and quite honestly, not a big fan of their self-firing pistols 🤣. But I want a Cross in 16" .308 Win for my compact deer rifle, because I like how it folds up, and with a long suppressor, it will still be shorter than my other rifles without. I've handled several of them, and they feel quite solid to me. I just honestly don't understand all the bitching... And I'm the furthest thing from a Sig fan. I'm actually a Rem 700 fanboy.

I’m guessing you’re the same kind that’s offended my Trumps mean tweets too if KB offends you.
 
I’m guessing you’re the same kind that’s offended my Trumps mean tweets too if KB offends you.
Trumps mean tweets were funny. KB is just a gigantic douche with lots of money who thinks he’s cool and slick.

Also, you’re the Fudd who says suppressors shouldn’t be deregulated, and should remain an NFA item. I’m guessing you’re the same kind of person who wants to keep the NFA and Hughes amendment intact, and keep paying $200 a pop for an illegally-taxed guaranteed RIGHT, just so he can feel cool and special, and your NFA collection won’t lose value instantly. 😂
 
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Trumps mean tweets were funny. KB is just a gigantic douche with lots of money who thinks he’s cool and slick.

Also, you’re the Fudd who says suppressors shouldn’t be deregulated, and should remain an NFA item. I’m guessing you’re the same kind of person who wants to keep the NFA and Hughes amendment intact, and keep paying $200 a pop for an illegally-taxed guaranteed RIGHT, just so he can feel cool and special, and your NFA collection won’t lose value instantly. 😂

Someone get this man a tampon.

Yeah dude you really hit the nail on the head, I’m really worried about the value of all my cans plummeting that I couldn’t even sell right now for half of what I paid for them if I even wanted to go through the huge hassle… when the value and ease of sale would go UP if NFA was repealed.

God you’re dumb.
 
Someone get this man a tampon.

Yeah dude you really hit the nail on the head, I’m really worried about the value of all my cans plummeting that I couldn’t even sell right now for half of what I paid for them if I even wanted to go through the huge hassle… when the value and ease of sale would go UP if NFA was repealed.

God you’re dumb.
🤣😂🤣 Keep bitching, if anything this thread proves it’s that you’re the one MANstrusting here. You sound like you need a whole bottle of Midol.

Got you a present…

896719B9-665C-42DD-A43D-E7CDBDFA07EF.jpeg
 
🤣😂🤣 Keep bitching, if anything this thread proves it’s that you’re the one MANstrusting here. You sound like you need a whole bottle of Midol.

Comical coming from the guy that gets fucking PTSD from my opinion on NFA and melts a few more brain cells every time he reads one of my posts.

I’m in here making fun of this joke of a rifle that I burned $1500 on and don’t give a single fuck about as well as the people who actually think this is a quality product and here you come in triggered.
 
Comical coming from the guy that gets fucking PTSD from my opinion on NFA and melts a few more brain cells every time he reads one of my posts.

I’m in here making fun of this joke of a rifle that I burned $1500 on and don’t give a single fuck about as well as the people who actually think this is a quality product and here you come in triggered.
Triggered? Bro you really need to look in a mirror. You’re more Triggered than a misgendered tranny liberal. 😂

If you “don’t give a single fuck about” it, you sure have spent the last few pages bitching an awful lot about it, and that you paid $1,500 for a pile of shit, the hinge is flexy, the thread protector sucks even though you put a muzzle device on it, the trigger shoe is too thin, the handguard is wobbly, wah, wah, wah… How did you not check this at the dealer/store before accepting it?
 
Didn't read the thread.
Just came in on this last page to see if the loose stock on the Cross I saw at a LGS today was common.
I've shot a buddies and his was loose also, he sent it back, they fixed it (no idea what was done to it).

Simple observation.
You guys should just fuck and get it over with, all this suppressed sexuality is making you angsty.
 
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Curious if the optional integral base mount listed in the manual actually exists or is it vaporware?

Heading out to pick my rifle up shortly and have been reading through the manual online tonight. Have moly-based anti-seize in route. Still need a bore guide, any recommendations that work with the Cross?
 
To my knowledge the integral rings mount is still TBD.

Don’t use any special bore guide on my .308 Cross, just the same universal one I use on the other rifles.

And just as another data point, I have one of the first rifles that were sold by Cabela’s and haven’t had any of the reported issues. Will admit to never looking at the barrel thread protector since a suppressor mount was installed right out of the box. Use the gun primarily for hunting, but also have a 500 yard range for ringing steel. It works well for what I do and hopefully yours will also.
 
See if we can get back on track. All I found was conflicting reports on if a 0 moa pic rail would work for a clip on, while the scope rail was 20moa.

Does anyone here run a clip on thermal on their cross? I figured I could just slum it with a dedicated one for now. I'd like to swap it out though.

20220605_112203.jpg
 
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Curious if the optional integral base mount listed in the manual actually exists or is it vaporware?

Heading out to pick my rifle up shortly and have been reading through the manual online tonight. Have moly-based anti-seize in route. Still need a bore guide, any recommendations that work with the Cross?
I use a generic Dewey bore guide model ABS-3 for $27. Works well.
 
On the Possum Hollow, which model number is it? Their bore guide chart is not loading on their web page. I sent Eric an email already but is it off the shelf or do I have to special order? I picked up a generic bore guide as I needed something initially. Looks a lot like the Boretech but is made by Pro-Shot and has an aluminum body.

Rifle in hand. I went over it fairly thoroughly.
-Butt stock is solid at lower LOP settings.
-Folding the stock is a pain. Sometimes I get it right quickly, other times...
-Once folded, there's a bit of play. I don't think it'll bug me. Unfolded, it's rock tight.
-Yep, my thread protector is a bit too short.
-Needs a more-flared mag well. It's not "AR-easy" when it comes to mag insertion. I didn't notice that in the store.
-Everything else looked great in the store. Hand guard was aligned correctly, barrel was centered, crown looked good, Trigger felt decent, etc...

I got home and noticed the finish on the bolt face had partially come off. Also there were wear marks on the bolt head assembly, assuming it's called the carrier since the bolt fits into it. Now I didn't look at the bolt first thing during the unboxing/inspection process. I did install and cycle it a dozen times or so and that may be where the wear is from. It's really minor and honestly not worth mentioning but pics below. I am concerned about the bolt face though. Can't tell what sort of coating is being used, it really doesn't look like a nitride or DLC coating where it's come off. Almost looks like it's flaked off and it's just paint. Let me know what you think on the bolt face.

Haven't inspected with a bore scope yet but I have a new 20" carbon barrel arriving on Tuesday. Pics next to the 308 gas gun. Without accessories, their weights are almost identical with the AR being a tenth or two lighter.




 
Out of curiosity, is there a reason the stock folds and covers the bolt as opposed to folding onto the left side?
I would like it to fold to the left but then you still have the bolt sticking out, making it wider for storage. Is that the reason? And is there any left hand folding options?
 
The wear on the bolt face doesn't look like the wear on the carrier,
the carrier wear looks like friction/use wear.

AFAIK the rifles are fired at a test facility before heading out,
pt some gun solvent on a qtip and see if it doesn't come off.

The bolt-face should not show wear at this stage, and eg, as there
is no ejector or extractor wear visible. Its not uncommon to get
some build up on the bolt face, that cleans up with solvent.

If its anything else, call SIG.
 
The wear on the bolt face doesn't look like the wear on the carrier,
the carrier wear looks like friction/use wear.

AFAIK the rifles are fired at a test facility before heading out,
pt some gun solvent on a qtip and see if it doesn't come off.

The bolt-face should not show wear at this stage, and eg, as there
is no ejector or extractor wear visible. Its not uncommon to get
some build up on the bolt face, that cleans up with solvent.

If its anything else, call SIG.
It's not something on the surface of the bolt face coating. The coating itself has come off and the crescent shape is bare metal. I mean honestly it looks like paint has flaked off. Just doesn't seem like some sort of nitriding or DLC.
 
Wow, that coating coming off isn’t good. I can’t imagine that it’s not some sort of surface hardening they do on their bolts. For it to just flake off like that… LOL

Mine is doing the wear deal on the carrier too. I know it’s not good but I wouldn’t be as concerned about it as the bolt. IMO your rifle needs to go back to Sig before you fire it.
 
Wow, that coating coming off isn’t good. I can’t imagine that it’s not some sort of surface hardening they do on their bolts. For it to just flake off like that… LOL

Mine is doing the wear deal on the carrier too. I know it’s not good but I wouldn’t be as concerned about it as the bolt. IMO your rifle needs to go back to Sig before you fire it.
You would think they use some sort of surface hardening process like nitriding but this doesn't appear to be it, that's for sure. The store was dark and I really should have taken a closer look at the bolt. The coating flaking off isn't going to cause the bolt to malfunction but it probably helps block heat transfer, carbon and case release after being fired. There are lots of uncoated actions out there.

I know you can get the entire assembly for around $400, are the bolts themselves unobtainium as well? I'll call them on Monday. Hopefully they can either send out a new bolt or I can just send the bolt in and not the entire rifle. I guess they could take a look at the stock folded if I send everything back.
 
Out of curiosity, is there a reason the stock folds and covers the bolt as opposed to folding onto the left side?
I would like it to fold to the left but then you still have the bolt sticking out, making it wider for storage. Is that the reason? And is there any left hand folding options?
It's my understanding it locks the bolt and keeps it from opening with the stock collapsed. It's reversible. You can remove the hinge and flip it for left-hand folding. I just got it today so I may be wrong, LOL.
 
Out of curiosity, is there a reason the stock folds and covers the bolt as opposed to folding onto the left side?
I would like it to fold to the left but then you still have the bolt sticking out, making it wider for storage. Is that the reason? And is there any left hand folding options?
The stock can be switched to fold either way. Alot of folks typically fold it to the right to trap the bolt and keep it from snagging on something and rotating out of battery while hunting.

I like the left hand fold because you can remove the bolt with the stock folded. With it set up to right hand fold, you have to leave the stock at an awkward 45 degrees every time you remove it. It also compliments the way I wanted to run the sling.

My stock loosened up after about 30 rds when extended. I swapped it to a left hand fold and purple loctited and it’s rock solid through another 100ish rds.
 

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You would think they use some sort of surface hardening process like nitriding but this doesn't appear to be it, that's for sure.

img_0335.jpg


For comparison see, eg normal bolt face during use. The bolt face should clean up to glossy, deep black (looks new) with solvent and brush. Here is RTFM, P-70
5.2 Cleaning the Bolt Assembly
a. Scrub bolt face with nylon bristle brush and CLP. Wipe off excess.
b. Clean the hook of the extractor.
c. Remove any carbon from bolt lugs.
d. Scrub bolt head with nylon bristle brush and CLP. Wipe off excess.
e. Clean interior of bolt carrier.
f. Wipe down bolt handle.
g. Wipe down bolt carrier body.
h. Scrub the bolt head pin with nylon bristle brush and CLP. Wipe off excess.
i. Wipe down the striker assembly.
If there is zero coating, it would almost surely have to be OEM factory(application) issue, not a wear issue. Not sure there hase been any complaint or evidence of this (in the thread to date). Brass case rim is pretty soft by itself. The wear on the carrier, however is normal, and you can see similar also in pic above. It runs a 'translucent' think look before it runs to bare metal.
 
The Cross's bolt head is reinforced to deal with SIG's forthcoming high pressure, hybrid cased 277 SIG Fury ammunition. The bolt also features a bayonet firing pin, and an interchangeable bolt handle
<https://www.recoilweb.com/sig-cross-rifle-sig-returns-to-the-bolt-action-market-155231.html>

Recall a .277 fury round bolt is designed for is SAAMI spec/ rated to 80,000k PSI. Here's another pic of Cross bolt in use prior to cleaning.

IMG_1654-WM-e1576632147723.jpg


If you're bolt is missing its surface treatment you should call SIG.
 
For comparison see, eg normal bolt face during use. The bolt face should clean up to glossy, deep black (looks new) with solvent and brush. Here is RTFM, P-70

If there is zero coating, it would almost surely have to be OEM factory(application) issue, not a wear issue. Not sure there hase been any complaint or evidence of this. The wear on the carrier, however is normal, and you can see similar also in pic above...

My photo is a BRAND NEW bolt. Just picked up the rifle this morning. I've never fired it. This is as close as I could get with the phone.
 
Thinking your bolt didn’t get coated right. This is mine after 300+ rounds. Hopefully they can just send you a new one. Since it’s just the coating, shouldn’t be an issue shooting it in the mean time. I’ve had other rifles with bare steel bolts.
 

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Thinking your bolt didn’t get coated right. This is mine after 300+ rounds. Hopefully they can just send you a new one. Since it’s just the coating, shouldn’t be an issue shooting it in the mean time. I’ve had other rifles with bare steel bolts.
Exactly, can't see it being a huge problem as the bolt strength comes from what it's made of, not the coating, but obviously want to check with them first before firing it as I don't want to ruin any chances for a warranty replacement.
 
A few more questions!

-Hand guard weights. Any low cost recommendations? $60 for two weights is beyond ridiculous.

-Scope mount. I currently have a 3-18x50 that I'll be using until I decide on a dedicated scope. It's mounted in a Scalarworks LEAP08 1.57". If I wanted to go with a scope that has a 56mm front element, will I need to go up to something with a 1.93" rise? Any issues with dialing it down to zero at 100 yards? Longest I'll be shooting, most of the time, is 300 yards.

-Head space. Assuming the barrel/extension allows for setting head space? Theoretically I could dial this in so the HS is identical to my gas gun, no? My neighbor is an expert in all things Savage and touts this ability.

-I did an initial jump to the lands with the Hornady comparator, definitely more jump than I can load in the mag with 200 grain ELDX. What's the longest length I can load for in these mags?