That these are finally shipping is a concern...I had promised myself no more rifles...I have enough...
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I'm curious what you all think would be the best impromptu way to secure the action while removing the barrel nut. Sig references a reaction rod type tool in their manual, but I don't think they are available yet. Maybe a 2x4 trimmed to fit in the magwell, protruding out the bottom and clamped in a vice?
I've got material coming this week to make a rear entry action wrench. Personally I prefer that method vs a magazine well block.I'm curious what you all think would be the best impromptu way to secure the action while removing the barrel nut. Sig references a reaction rod type tool in their manual, but I don't think they are available yet. Maybe a 2x4 trimmed to fit in the magwell, protruding out the bottom and clamped in a vice?
What are people's thoughts on muzzle breaks for the cross?
Impovised positions, etc does the rifle move around abit more than you were planning on, etc?
Looks awesome! im going to cerakote it too with Magpul OD green or Coyote tan. Will post when done.I had some free time yesterday and I have never really liked the all black rifles so I did some tear down and painted it with some OD green I had at the house. I like having another color on it for sure.
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I am using the gen 2 APA "Little Bastard" self-timing muzzle brake, it does seem to work. APA claims about 40% less recoil. They now have a gen 3 out that is a bit longer, with an extra set of ports, and can be tuned by removing set screws.
www.americanprecisionarms.com
what are the special considerations when installing a muzzle brake on this tapered barrel?I am using the gen 2 APA "Little Bastard" self-timing muzzle brake, it does seem to work. APA claims about 40% less recoil. They now have a gen 3 out that is a bit longer, with an extra set of ports, and can be tuned by removing set screws.
www.americanprecisionarms.com
View attachment 7469166
what are the special considerations when installing a muzzle brake on this tapered barrel?
Did a lot of research. think i am leaning towards the Hypertap.What are people's thoughts on muzzle breaks for the cross?
Impovised positions, etc does the rifle move around abit more than you were planning on, etc?
I tried an AI mag to see if I could get a 6.5 Grendel to feed and didn't see any issues. Also tried the AI 223 mag just for shits and giggles and no problems there. I'd love to get a small bolt face. 300 BO would be a poachers special.
Anyone try the Hypertap Muzzle Break on their Cross?
probably 10% hunting and 90% messing around at the shooting range. I am very interested in following the bullet to impact with the possibility of a scope cam. What brand of sling is that on your Cross? nice setup...What are your plans for this rifle? The Hypertap will do a good job of reducing recoil, but (if it is going to be used for hunting) it has a 35degree port angle so IMO that is a little too much for even one shot without ear pro (if that is even a consideration). I think your Hellfires are something like 15degrees and then maybe 5degrees for the 2P version. The slim version in the stainless would definitely be a looker tho.
I have a cherry bomb that I had sitting around from my Fix on mine. Doesn’t do shit except protect the muzzle but the recoil was honestly not all that bad. No issue maintaining site picture.
View attachment 7470064
I know they are a mounting system.
probably 10% hunting and 90% messing around at the shooting range. I am very interested in following the bullet to impact with the possibility of a scope cam. What brand of sling is that on your Cross? nice setup...
congrats, nice rig...loving minePicked up a 6.5 Creed today on an impulse purchase. For anyone wondering- as it sits with Omega 30, Atlas CAL, and Optic, it weighed in at 11.4 lbs on the bathroom scale. Can’t wait to see how it shoots and I see this being a perfect youth gun as well for my boys when they start shooting.
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For lightweight rigs...these things are getting heavy quick, it seems. My M70 goes right about 9 lbs...and if I ever got around to putting a can on it (didn't build it that way), it would be around 10 lbs.
What a great account of hard use. While I’m sure most will never run it that hard even over the lifetime of the rifle, I really appreciate your taking the time to convey your assessment.I took my new Sig Cross to a Randy Cain Practical Rifle class over the weekend. If you're unfamiliar with the concept of the practical rifle, you really should look into it. The idea is to be able to have one rifle that will handle just about any job. It is similar in many ways to a scout rifle, but doesn't follow the dogma and definitions of a true scout, and fills largely the same role. I purchased the Cross as a back-up to my Steyr Scout. I wanted something that could fill a similar role, but would have some unique features to justify having something different.
Randy teaches students how to run a bolt gun in a fight. Any deer rifle will work. His training class is going to show you the good, the bad and the ugly of your equipment. The guns are run hard and any weakness will manifest itself in short order. I'll cover it all here.
The good:
It is compact and lightweight. I chose this rifle for a multitude of reasons but high on the list was the folding stock which means I can carry it in a VERY compact case. The case is only 29" long and it doesn't look like a rifle case. I put a Sig BDX 2.5-8X scope on it which weighs a bit more than I'd like and the sling I put on it is a little heavy (Andy's Leather Ching Sling in 1.25" width because I won it... I would have chosen a 1"). I added a couple of QD mounts and the thing weighs an ounce shy of 9 pounds empty.
The trigger is phenomenal. It is 2 stage and breaks clean and crisp at 2.25 pounds with no creep and seems to have a very short lock time. There is no clunk when the striker moves.
Bolt lift is smooth and easy. I learned that running the bolt is much faster if I leave my thumb on the right side of the grip. It takes a little getting used to but works very well.
I bought 3 ten round magazines and 3 extra 5 round mags which made my total loaded capacity 50 rounds. That was very nice, especially in a few of the Rolling Thunder drills.
The adjustable stock was nice in two ways. First, I discovered that in prone, the gun wanted to tip to the left. I had to put pressure with my firing hand to correct it which isn't good. The butt pad can be canted to correct this which allowed me to keep it level without any muscle tension from my firing hand. I also discovered that I needed the stock extended by 3/4" when shooting from prone and that was easy to accomplish but as you'll see below, this didn't work out as well as hoped.
The bad:
When shooting from prone, I can't get my support hand directly under the rifle unless I extend my arm way out on the forend. That means no skeletal support and no natural point of aim. The mag well prevents my arm from getting into the correct position for a really stable prone position. Sitting, kneeling and the rest were fine, but prone was not. A bipod would fix this of course but with a weight and bulk and speed penalty.
It is overall uncomfortable to shoot from prone. I got a big and painful bruise on the top of my shoulder that still hurts like hell a few days later. I never felt like my face was correctly behind the scope and perhaps higher rings would help that. It was just a struggle to shoot from prone. For you long range shooters reading this, remember that this is slung prone... not from a bipod or rest.
The bolt knob seems well designed until you cycle it hard and fast a couple hundred times. Then, you discover that those grooves create a callous on your finger and thumb.
Same is true of the M-Lok holes in the forend. My support hand fingers can still feel where it was rubbing in the holes during recoil.
The mag release is oddly placed and makes rapid changes a bit difficult. I would punch it with the tip of my trigger finger.
The mags often required excessive force to get properly seated. This was true of the P-mags and the factory original mag.
The ugly:
I probably put 300 rounds through the rifle in the first 2 days of the class and had 5 failures to strip a round from the magazine. The bolt just slid over the top of the next cartridge. The magazine was seated properly and I'm 99.9% sure that I ran the bolt fully to the rear. I am not easy on a bolt gun and run them hard and fast.
The mechanism that holds the butt pad for length of pull fails under recoil. I adjusted it to about 3/4" from the shortest setting and within 5 shots, it is back to it's shortest position. If I extend it all the way, it seems to hold, but from a fairly short position, it will not hold.
Overall, I'm not sure I like this thing as much as I once did. I switched to my Steyr Scout for the night shoot and all of day three and that just felt MUCH more natural. The Steyr lacks any longer range capability and is not as compact as the Cross. Being able to select 5 or 10 round mags was nice. I'm just not sure it is worth it.
I'll be posting a class review later but if you're interested, here is Randy Cain's web site: https://www.guntactics.com/rifle.php
I took my new Sig Cross to a Randy Cain Practical Rifle class over the weekend. If you're unfamiliar with the concept of the practical rifle, you really should look into it. The idea is to be able to have one rifle that will handle just about any job. It is similar in many ways to a scout rifle, but doesn't follow the dogma and definitions of a true scout, and fills largely the same role. I purchased the Cross as a back-up to my Steyr Scout. I wanted something that could fill a similar role, but would have some unique features to justify having something different.
Randy teaches students how to run a bolt gun in a fight. Any deer rifle will work. His training class is going to show you the good, the bad and the ugly of your equipment. The guns are run hard and any weakness will manifest itself in short order. I'll cover it all here.
The good:
It is compact and lightweight. I chose this rifle for a multitude of reasons but high on the list was the folding stock which means I can carry it in a VERY compact case. The case is only 29" long and it doesn't look like a rifle case. I put a Sig BDX 2.5-8X scope on it which weighs a bit more than I'd like and the sling I put on it is a little heavy (Andy's Leather Ching Sling in 1.25" width because I won it... I would have chosen a 1"). I added a couple of QD mounts and the thing weighs an ounce shy of 9 pounds empty.
The trigger is phenomenal. It is 2 stage and breaks clean and crisp at 2.25 pounds with no creep and seems to have a very short lock time. There is no clunk when the striker moves.
Bolt lift is smooth and easy. I learned that running the bolt is much faster if I leave my thumb on the right side of the grip. It takes a little getting used to but works very well.
I bought 3 ten round magazines and 3 extra 5 round mags which made my total loaded capacity 50 rounds. That was very nice, especially in a few of the Rolling Thunder drills.
The adjustable stock was nice in two ways. First, I discovered that in prone, the gun wanted to tip to the left. I had to put pressure with my firing hand to correct it which isn't good. The butt pad can be canted to correct this which allowed me to keep it level without any muscle tension from my firing hand. I also discovered that I needed the stock extended by 3/4" when shooting from prone and that was easy to accomplish but as you'll see below, this didn't work out as well as hoped.
The bad:
When shooting from prone, I can't get my support hand directly under the rifle unless I extend my arm way out on the forend. That means no skeletal support and no natural point of aim. The mag well prevents my arm from getting into the correct position for a really stable prone position. Sitting, kneeling and the rest were fine, but prone was not. A bipod would fix this of course but with a weight and bulk and speed penalty.
It is overall uncomfortable to shoot from prone. I got a big and painful bruise on the top of my shoulder that still hurts like hell a few days later. I never felt like my face was correctly behind the scope and perhaps higher rings would help that. It was just a struggle to shoot from prone. For you long range shooters reading this, remember that this is slung prone... not from a bipod or rest.
The bolt knob seems well designed until you cycle it hard and fast a couple hundred times. Then, you discover that those grooves create a callous on your finger and thumb.
Same is true of the M-Lok holes in the forend. My support hand fingers can still feel where it was rubbing in the holes during recoil.
The mag release is oddly placed and makes rapid changes a bit difficult. I would punch it with the tip of my trigger finger.
The mags often required excessive force to get properly seated. This was true of the P-mags and the factory original mag.
The ugly:
I probably put 300 rounds through the rifle in the first 2 days of the class and had 5 failures to strip a round from the magazine. The bolt just slid over the top of the next cartridge. The magazine was seated properly and I'm 99.9% sure that I ran the bolt fully to the rear. I am not easy on a bolt gun and run them hard and fast.
The mechanism that holds the butt pad for length of pull fails under recoil. I adjusted it to about 3/4" from the shortest setting and within 5 shots, it is back to it's shortest position. If I extend it all the way, it seems to hold, but from a fairly short position, it will not hold.
Overall, I'm not sure I like this thing as much as I once did. I switched to my Steyr Scout for the night shoot and all of day three and that just felt MUCH more natural. The Steyr lacks any longer range capability and is not as compact as the Cross. Being able to select 5 or 10 round mags was nice. I'm just not sure it is worth it.
I'll be posting a class review later but if you're interested, here is Randy Cain's web site: https://www.guntactics.com/rifle.php
.......The mechanism that holds the butt pad for length of pull fails under recoil. I adjusted it to about 3/4" from the shortest setting and within 5 shots, it is back to it's shortest position. If I extend it all the way, it seems to hold, but from a fairly short position, it will not hold.....
tks...ordered and installed a seekins ATC (have one on my Havak)....the stars aligned and everything threaded down perfect!Just take the thread protector off, but leave the black ring on so that you have a strait edge for the brake to tighten against.
That's a pretty substantial failure I haven't heard reported before, are you going to send it back to Sig for repair?
Not until after deer season, but yes.
Did you use factory ammo for your class, or did you hand load. Was the max OAL in spec? Just based on your comments about the mag being hard to seat. Is it the same open bolt vs closed bolt? Did you lube the mag release spring per the manual page 74.
On the stock loosing and collapsing. Mine did loosen the first time I took it to the range. But I think I just didn't have it in a detent when I tightened it. After I repositioned and retighten it hasn't come loose or moved again.
Both open and closed. And I'll have to consult page 74 of the manual. I wasn't aware of any lube required to seat the mag.
Ammo was cheap shit. Prvi Partisan M80.
I don't think the bolt over-runs were not connected to the mag seating. The firs time it happened, I gave the mag a tug to make sure it was seated and it was. The next time, I just ran the bolt again and it picked up the next round. It was a weird failure.
After I got home, I started looking at this. I tried extending the stock to its longest position and then smacked it on the floor. It stayed right in place. I then shortened it to perhaps 3/4" from the shortest position and did the same thing. It collapsed. I did it again but this time only hit it with the heel of my palm. Again, it collapsed. It was not loose. In fact, after it collapsed, I had to use pliers to loosen the adjustment knob. I don't think the teeth are cut as well in that part of the adjustment range.
Looks like you are set then. I’m right at 9.8lbs unsuppressed
Just wondering, does the pic rail and forearm need to be removed to take the barrel out? Or is it just loosening thw two cross bolts and sliding it out? I couldn't find a video on the barrel removal process. Thanks guys!
I took my new Sig Cross to a Randy Cain Practical Rifle class over the weekend. If you're unfamiliar with the concept of the practical rifle, you really should look into it. The idea is to be able to have one rifle that will handle just about any job. It is similar in many ways to a scout rifle, but doesn't follow the dogma and definitions of a true scout, and fills largely the same role. I purchased the Cross as a back-up to my Steyr Scout. I wanted something that could fill a similar role, but would have some unique features to justify having something different.
Randy teaches students how to run a bolt gun in a fight. Any deer rifle will work. His training class is going to show you the good, the bad and the ugly of your equipment. The guns are run hard and any weakness will manifest itself in short order. I'll cover it all here.
The good:
It is compact and lightweight. I chose this rifle for a multitude of reasons but high on the list was the folding stock which means I can carry it in a VERY compact case. The case is only 29" long and it doesn't look like a rifle case. I put a Sig BDX 2.5-8X scope on it which weighs a bit more than I'd like and the sling I put on it is a little heavy (Andy's Leather Ching Sling in 1.25" width because I won it... I would have chosen a 1"). I added a couple of QD mounts and the thing weighs an ounce shy of 9 pounds empty.
The trigger is phenomenal. It is 2 stage and breaks clean and crisp at 2.25 pounds with no creep and seems to have a very short lock time. There is no clunk when the striker moves.
Bolt lift is smooth and easy. I learned that running the bolt is much faster if I leave my thumb on the right side of the grip. It takes a little getting used to but works very well.
I bought 3 ten round magazines and 3 extra 5 round mags which made my total loaded capacity 50 rounds. That was very nice, especially in a few of the Rolling Thunder drills.
The adjustable stock was nice in two ways. First, I discovered that in prone, the gun wanted to tip to the left. I had to put pressure with my firing hand to correct it which isn't good. The butt pad can be canted to correct this which allowed me to keep it level without any muscle tension from my firing hand. I also discovered that I needed the stock extended by 3/4" when shooting from prone and that was easy to accomplish but as you'll see below, this didn't work out as well as hoped.
The bad:
When shooting from prone, I can't get my support hand directly under the rifle unless I extend my arm way out on the forend. That means no skeletal support and no natural point of aim. The mag well prevents my arm from getting into the correct position for a really stable prone position. Sitting, kneeling and the rest were fine, but prone was not. A bipod would fix this of course but with a weight and bulk and speed penalty.
It is overall uncomfortable to shoot from prone. I got a big and painful bruise on the top of my shoulder that still hurts like hell a few days later. I never felt like my face was correctly behind the scope and perhaps higher rings would help that. It was just a struggle to shoot from prone. For you long range shooters reading this, remember that this is slung prone... not from a bipod or rest.
The bolt knob seems well designed until you cycle it hard and fast a couple hundred times. Then, you discover that those grooves create a callous on your finger and thumb.
Same is true of the M-Lok holes in the forend. My support hand fingers can still feel where it was rubbing in the holes during recoil.
The mag release is oddly placed and makes rapid changes a bit difficult. I would punch it with the tip of my trigger finger.
The mags often required excessive force to get properly seated. This was true of the P-mags and the factory original mag.
The ugly:
I probably put 300 rounds through the rifle in the first 2 days of the class and had 5 failures to strip a round from the magazine. The bolt just slid over the top of the next cartridge. The magazine was seated properly and I'm 99.9% sure that I ran the bolt fully to the rear. I am not easy on a bolt gun and run them hard and fast.
The mechanism that holds the butt pad for length of pull fails under recoil. I adjusted it to about 3/4" from the shortest setting and within 5 shots, it is back to it's shortest position. If I extend it all the way, it seems to hold, but from a fairly short position, it will not hold.
Overall, I'm not sure I like this thing as much as I once did. I switched to my Steyr Scout for the night shoot and all of day three and that just felt MUCH more natural. The Steyr lacks any longer range capability and is not as compact as the Cross. Being able to select 5 or 10 round mags was nice. I'm just not sure it is worth it.
I'll be posting a class review later but if you're interested, here is Randy Cain's web site: https://www.guntactics.com/rifle.php
Just wondering, does the pic rail and forearm need to be removed to take the barrel out? ...