Nucleus bump on close (renamed again)

[alwaywatchyoursix]

The steel has been hardened and you really have nothing to worry about outside of aesthetics.

Sweet, thank you. That's all I needed to know. I don't care about it as far as aesthetics go because it's unlikely anyone else will ever handle it enough to notice it, but I figured it was acting as a corrosion barrier and was concerned about that.

I'll just leave it the way it is then. I would cover it with a paint marker, but the last time I did that to something I started really freaking out when it washed off a couple years later.

 

[diverdon]

As nearly as I can tell from watching your videos there is nothing wrong with your action. I have one build into a rifle and when I or my Six or eight year old run it from behind the rifle it is very smooth. After watching your video I put the rifle on the bipod and stood off to the bolt side then moved it up and down. When you do it that way there is no forward pressure on the bolt so of course it does the same thing yours does. Who cares? Run it like a rifle and it will be fine. Ted is not well known for diplomacy so you might not want to hear his explanation.

All the whining and bitching on this thread is really something. I have three lug 72 degree bolt lift actions from three other makers, AI, Barrett, and Sako. I have been dryfireing the heck out of all of them in rotation as well as running them from the side the way tightwad does in his video. They all run perfectly when run from behind the rifle but when run from the political position tightwad demonstrates they do run differently. For the putpose of the rest of this paragraph we will assume that what tightwad shows in his vid is a defect. The AI (AXMC SA) and the Sako (85 Carbonlite) are a little worse than the Nucleus and the Barrett (MRAD) did not exhibit that.

My three Nuclei are all .223. PVA screwed the .223 Wyld barrels on for me and I installed the Huber triggers and bolted them into the MDT LSS XL chassis. I have just finished test firing all three with Hornady 75 grain (Josh recommended Prime 77). They all shot one hole groups! Not cloverleafs either, pretty round holes. As I type this I have tears in my eyes because I am so happy that I am going to be able to present my children with rifles that shoot so well.

I was able to embark on this path partly because Ted decided to introduce the Nucleus and to give us a nice discount to make it easy for us. I am thankful that those actions, the PVA barrels and entire system work as well as they do. I am thankful for the action and the discount I was given by Ted. I am embarrassed by the way this thread and some of its participants have unfairly besmirched Ted, ARC and ARC's customer service.

I just gotta wonder after having had to read and respond to all the ignorance on this thread how quick Ted will be to offer us another discount. If I were Ted, the minute I got my hands on Tightwads action I would refund his money then I would take that action to all the shows I did for the next year or two, to show people there is nothing wrong with it, then I would sell it to a top shooter for $850 and come back on this thread and post all his scores.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

Just a heads up I had to call ARC yesterday so I could get barloc for my Nucleus and they didn't answer until the 4th ring...they also mailed it out the same day but it's still going to take 2 days to get from WA to TN. I really felt like it should have been teleported instantly.

On a non sarcastic note I have a PVA 260 barrel bolted up to my Nucleus and the results are the same as yours one hole. I bought the barrel and action both off hide members to give to my son... I'm keeping it. And now I need a PVA 6CM barrel.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Whining and bitching are what make forums, if everyone came and and praised everything no one would show up.
No one here touched or felt his action, is it not possible that there is an issue with it or with the action trigger combination.
The OP did find burrs on the bold head, so let ARC and the OP straighten it out.

 

[JeffLebowski]

Whining and bitching are what make forums, if everyone came and and praised everything no one would show up.
No one here touched or felt his action, is it not possible that there is an issue with it or with the action trigger combination.
The OP did find burrs on the bold head, so let ARC and the OP straighten it out.

I don’t see where Ted confirmed the burrs.

 

[whatsupdoc]

I don’t see where Ted confirmed the burrs.

So you think Ted is going to run right over here and announce that.
When texastightwad posted the videos of his action, he had it clamped in a v-block on a lathe I will give him the benefit of knowing what a burr is.

 

[character0]

I don’t see where Ted confirmed the burrs.

So you think Ted is going to run right over here and announce that.
When texastightwad posted the videos of his action, he had it clamped in a v-block on a lathe I will give him the benefit of knowing what a burr is.

I'm guessing the action is still in the mail. Ted won't see the burrs until he receives the parts. I also assume he'll contact texastightwad after analyzing what's going on and making some recommendations of some sort.

 

[hereinaz]

I want to point out that a short sear on a triggee

I have been following/lurking this thread only because I was experiencing some cock on close with the Nucleus running a Bix n Andy TacSport, and I’ll start by fully disclosing upfront that my knowledge and understanding of the intricacies of bolt action rifles are limited. What follows may be blatantly obvious to many, but it was an epiphany for a wanna be rifle nerd like me. Thanks to all of you above for sharing your knowledge and feeding my curiosity.

If you are having that hitch/catch on bolt close, I figured out a simple way to check if the issue is due to trigger timing (i.e., as many above have mentioned - the cocking piece is engaging the sear too early which then results in the firing pin spring being compressed an additional amount by you during bolt close). In other words, the hand off between the cocking piece and the sear is not “timed” correctly.

In the cocked position, the cocking piece rests against the bolt body, but if you take the small washer and screw that came with the nucleus used for bolt disassembly/reassembly and screw it into the back of your firing pin assembly you can continue to tighten the screw until the cocking piece is pulled rearward (i.e., away from the bolt body). In this case the washer and screw are holding the cocking piece back instead of the bolt body. Obviously, how much you then tighten the screw will dictate the amount of rearward travel of the cocking piece.

The relevance of this (and the really interesting bit/epiphany for me) is that you can then use this method to diagnose if the issue you are having with the hitch is due to trigger timing. Long story short, back that cocking piece up some amount, insert the bolt back into the action, and test bolt close. Obviously you can’t pull the trigger to release the sear, but there will (or should) come a point when the trigger is "timed" and the bolt will close like butter. If this does occur like it did for me, it is consistent with what others above have stated – the hitch is not a nucleus problem or a defect - it's a trigger timing issue.

If you take measurements on the cocking piece distance from some reference point (either bolt body or cocking piece shroud before and after the hitch goes away, you have the distance needed for proper timing.

I am admittedly no expert - just an enthusiast who likes to know how his stuff functions. So take what follows with MANY grains of salt.

By design, the nucleus lacks the ability for the use of a trigger hanger which would have allowed a relatively easily “time”. As a result, the other options (in no particular order):
1. Live it with.
2. Find a different trigger that has a more forward sear.
3. File the sear the amount measured above when hitch goes away.
4. File the cocking piece the amount measured above when hitch goes away.
5. File both some amount equal to the total.
6. Ask ARC pretty pretty please to machine you a cocking piece the amount shorter when the hitch goes away.
7. Take it to a smith.

Using this method to diagnose timing would at least allow you to explore option 2 by asking questions about sear location relative to trigger pins before purchase.

Options 3, 4, and 5 will most definitely void your warranty and likely introduce cascading issues that may not be worth it:
1. Alter firing pin protrusion resulting in light strikes.... but you can adjust that on the nucleus
2. Alter firing pin fall force - the pin is falling a shorter distance and the spring is less compressed - this must translate into less force. So I suppose you could get a stronger spring.
3. Probably others that I know nothing about.

Personally, I’m left undecided about how to proceed. I may just live with it, but may get bold and try to file the sear (mostly because I have a Bix N Andy TacSport, and you can easily order a replacement top sear in the event I totally eff it up).


Hope these musings are helpful to someone.

Decided to basically do number 4. I placed an order for a spare cocking piece and I paid ARC. Was $50 bucks shipped.

 

[JLP.Payette]

Received my barreled action from PVA today. I’m not getting the cock on close everyone talks about. The action feels smooth. I’m using a Triggertech diamond. I think PVA ships with a 19# spring installed, there was an extra firing pin spring in my box, I assume the extra is 16#. I don’t expect any light primer strikes but I’ll report back after load development this weekend.

 

[JeffLebowski]

I'm guessing the action is still in the mail. Ted won't see the burrs until he receives the parts. I also assume he'll contact texastightwad after analyzing what's going on and making some recommendations of some sort.

I’ll believe there’s burrs when Ted says so.

 

[Archangel01]

I am also running the mod22 trigger, I may contact ARC and order another cocking piece to try and eliminate some of the issues different triggers can cause.

I will say this, I shoot in the desert and high desert in AZ and the action has run flawlessly in every condition its been in so far. Kudos to Ted in his design and execution of this action. I'm 100% satisfied with it.

 

[TexasTightwad]

I'm guessing the action is still in the mail. Ted won't see the burrs until he receives the parts. I also assume he'll contact texastightwad after analyzing what's going on and making some recommendations of some sort.

I've been out of state because of a death in my family, so it just got mailed today. Expected delivery is Tuesday.

 

[character0]

I've been out of state because of a death in my family, so it just got mailed today. Expected delivery is Tuesday.

Never a fun excursion. Sorry for your loss. Hope your action has a quick and full recovery.

 

[JLP.Payette]

Received my barreled action from PVA today. I’m not getting the cock on close everyone talks about. The action feels smooth. I’m using a Triggertech diamond. I think PVA ships with a 19# spring installed, there was an extra firing pin spring in my box, I assume the extra is 16#. I don’t expect any light primer strikes but I’ll report back after load development this weekend.

Ran 100 rounds thru my Nucleus this weekend with Zero issues, the action feels and functions great. To correct my abov post, PVA shipped my barrelled Action with the 16# spring installed and supplied the 19# spring just in case I needed it. After finally getting this rifle in the field I can say it was well worth the wait.

 

[jsthntn247]

I’ve never had an issue with my Nucleus with the 16 spring and TT Diamond

 

[TexasTightwad]

Ted (ARC) got my action today and gave me a call. We ended the call on good terms and both agreed to do a follow-up here.

The reasons I sent it to him were so he could take a look at the burrs, and so he could tell me if mine cycled as intended (I don't have a second one to compare it to). He told me that mine cycled normally, and we had a discussion about bolt action design. Earlier in this thread, he said

If anyone has a good reason for cycling the bolt slowly, please share it, but do so with an explanation of why disturbing the rifle while closing the bolt is worse than disturbing it while opening the bolt

My reason is that in the matches I've shot, the rule is that you have to be on target before you close your bolt. So while disturbing the rifle while opening really doesn't matter, when I go to close the bolt I am already on target and any significant disturbance means I have to acquire the target a second time. Ted suggested I share that reason here because he felt that it was a valid one and may influence their products in the future (I'll let him touch on that if he wants to).

He also confirmed the burrs, which no one had spotted before (they are small, everything is black, and it is in the midst of a lot of details). If I recall correctly, he said that they would make sure that they are eliminated before nitriding moving forward.

As for my action, once I get it back I will reassemble my rifle, shoot it for a while, and see if I can learn to love it. And if I can't, I know there are some folks on here who would love to pick up a second one!

 

[hereinaz]

Ted (ARC) got my action today and gave me a call. We ended the call on good terms and both agreed to do a follow-up here.

The reasons I sent it to him were so he could take a look at the burrs, and so he could tell me if mine cycled as intended (I don't have a second one to compare it to). He told me that mine cycled normally, and we had a discussion about bolt action design. Earlier in this thread, he said
My reason is that in the matches I've shot, the rule is that you have to be on target before you close your bolt. So while disturbing the rifle while opening really doesn't matter, when I go to close the bolt I am already on target and any significant disturbance means I have to acquire the target a second time. Ted suggested I share that reason here because he felt that it was a valid one and may influence their products in the future (I'll let him touch on that if he wants to).

He also confirmed the burrs, which no one had spotted before (they are small, everything is black, and it is in the midst of a lot of details). If I recall correctly, he said that they would make sure that they are eliminated before nitriding moving forward.

As for my action, once I get it back I will reassemble my rifle, shoot it for a while, and see if I can learn to love it. And if I can't, I know there are some folks on here who would love to pick up a second one!

Very cool. It would be my third... and yeah I am looking.

 

[Tactical Taz]

I am looking for a second.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I am almost at the point of looking for a second... I sure as hell am going to get a 223 bolt soon.

 

[Anderson_A]

For anyone looking to tune up there nucleus for there trigger of choice I would recommend it at your own risk of course, use good judgment but this is my experience. First let me say by no means would I consider my action as I recieved it to have had any issues or that arc could possibly have done a nicer job on design and build at this price. That said I decided to order a second cocking piece and try and tune the action to my trigger a little better. I cringed when I saw someone recommend taking a file to this new action but after calling arc I figured for about a 40$ risk I would give it a go and after looking around here and talking to the guys at pva I had nothing to lose. I took a few thousandths off the cocking piece at a time being sure to maintain the original shape then left about .005” of cock on close and i can say the feel when running my action is even better than I expected .even when run very slowly the bolt manipulation is smooth. I cannot stress it enough when run properly the action as I recieved it was fanstastic and there was no noticible issues that would in any way affect function but I’m not one to leave good enough alone. I had three triggers on hand and every one of them produced different results when installed I wanted to replicate the feel of the one that caused the least cock on close. This is a perfect example of how an action manufacturer cannot account for the variation in trigger designs two of those triggers were both tt diamonds and both caused different results in the same action
I’m in no way an expert or even qualified but I greatly improved the feel of my action by fitting it to my trigger for what that’s worth to anyone on the fence about modification like I was
This action was going to be a second rifle for me to practice with and it will now replace my defiance as my match rifle

 

[karagias]

Thanks to all of you for contributing to this thread. I'm just checking in to let you know that I am not ignoring this matter. I will reply again when I have useful and pertinent information.

Ted

 

[hereinaz]

Thanks Ted.

Anderson, I ordered an extra cocking piece and will be customizing it for one rifle, and will probably follow up on my other Nukes as well.

 

[Anderson_A]

Action runs slick as hell I still have the 16lb spring installed too 300 rds of 6 and 6.5 creedmoor zero issues of any kind I think you will be very happy with it

 

[SierraCJ5]

Mine is smooth and slick. Not one FTF so far with stock spring and TT special. CRF works great from all mags I've tried. Very satisfied with the action.

 

[TexasTightwad]

@karagias @Jon_ARC

So when I got my action back from ARC, my .380 (.378) bolt head was not with it. I called them and they said that they had found some sort of defect in the .380 bolt heads, one that nobody but them had noticed yet. They said that they would send me one from a new batch once they got some made. The guy I talked to said they would try to keep up with the fact that they needed to send me one, but I might have to call and remind them.

I haven't been able to shoot in a while, so I only got around to calling to remind them last week, and they quickly sent it to me. I just got it in the mail and found that the lug cams have been redesigned!!!

I swapped bolt heads and, man - the difference is huge! The redesigned lug cams make the action cycle so much more smoothly! As I've discussed before, with my other bolt head (old design lug cams), when the lugs make contact there is an abrupt catch that takes 8.5 lbs of force to overcome. With this one, you can still feel when the lugs make contact if you are paying attention; however it only takes 3.25 lbs of force to close and it feels like a smooth transition rather than a catch.

ARC did a great job on this redesign, and I appreciate that they listened to my feedback and decided to try something new. Virtual high-five, Ted! I only wish both of my bolt heads had the new lugs!

 

[Skunkworx]

That’s promising to hear, I’ve got 473, 378, and 532 bolt heads from the first batches. Any idea when they will start allowing swaps?

 

[Kiba]

The redesigned bolt heads with altered ramp geometry to help with the smoothness on bolt close were mentioned in the PVA JHR thread last week. Supposedly once ARC has sufficient spare bolt head inventory to support it they're going to start offering bolt head exchanges under warranty, and all actions from here on out will ship with the revised bolt heads.

Now that my Nucleus build is completely assembled and being used as rifle rather than a bare action fiddled with on the bench in my hands, I really don't feel the bump when running the action normally or quickly-- but if I purposely run it slowly it's still there.

Wonder what the issue is with the .380" bolt heads they mentioned; that's what I'm currently running in my 223AI Nucleus build. Haven't had a single issue and the rifle shoots fantastic.

Not too worried about a headspace change with the bolt head swap; if ARC holds the tolerances to their usual standards I'm guessing you'll see headspace change by maybe +/- 0.0005 from your current bolt head.

 

[atomic41]

@karagias @Jon_ARC

So when I got my action back from ARC, my .380 (.378) bolt head was not with it. I called them and they said that they had found some sort of defect in the .380 bolt heads, one that nobody but them had noticed yet. They said that they would send me one from a new batch once they got some made. The guy I talked to said they would try to keep up with the fact that they needed to send me one, but I might have to call and remind them.

I haven't been able to shoot in a while, so I only got around to calling to remind them last week, and they quickly sent it to me. I just got it in the mail and found that the lug cams have been redesigned!!!

I swapped bolt heads and, man - the difference is huge! The redesigned lug cams make the action cycle so much more smoothly! As I've discussed before, with my other bolt head (old design lug cams), when the lugs make contact there is an abrupt catch that takes 8.5 lbs of force to overcome. With this one, you can still feel when the lugs make contact if you are paying attention; however it only takes 3.25 lbs of force to close and it feels like a smooth transition rather than a catch.

ARC did a great job on this redesign, and I appreciate that they listened to my feedback and decided to try something new. Virtual high-five, Ted! I only wish both of my bolt heads had the new lugs!

Thanks for sharing. I'm excited to get the improved bolt head.

 

[TexasTightwad]

@Kiba It took me a while, but I found the post you were referring to. Here it is for other people's benefit. This is part of a quote from what appears to be a PVA email:

Just got this in an email...... like I said early feb will be the soonest we see the next batch
Bolt Upgrade

ARC has been listening to comments from owners and has decided to upgrade the bolt heads to get rid of the bump some people were experiencing when closing the bolt. All of the actions moving forward will include the new bolts.

Anyone that has already received their Nucleus or John Hancock rifle can request a new bolt head from ARC, under warranty, once they become available. We will release an email when they become available. Please do not fill up their inbox with requests at this time. The current bolt heads still work fine. This is just an upgrade for how the action feels during cycling and does not affect function.

I will definitely be taking advantage of the upgrade for my other bolt head! Right now they are pretty backlogged though, so I'll wait a long time before asking about it.

 

[Kiba]

I will definitely be taking advantage of the upgrade for my other bolt head! Right now they are pretty backlogged though, so I'll wait a long time before asking about it.

I'm going to wait a while also. I bought a short and long action and have one of every size bolt head (why not for the preorder price? LOL)

I'm only shooting the .223 right now and will be for quite a while and would like to exchange the .380" bolt head sooner rather than later-- but I don't want to annoy ARC so I'll wait a while. It shoots great as it is now and unless you purposely run the bolt very, very slowly you don't notice the bump on close. The action runs and feels great when running it normally.

 

[leeb10]

Can't find it anymore, but I thought I saw a post where someone mentioned that actions after a specific SN# already have the new bolt head upgrade. Does anyone remember what that serial numbers range was?

 

[Triple D]

Anyone experiencing a catch when trying to open and cycle the bolt? If applying downward pressure on the bolt handle, it cycles fairly smooth. If applying any upward amount of pressure, it binds up and the bolt will not cycle reward. I’ve got consecutive serial numbers, but only 1 is experiencing this (.475 bolt).

Also, I’ll need to get a stronger spring. I’m only getting about 60% ignition on FGMM 6creed ammo. While I’ll likely run handloads, I don’t want FTF when on the clock.

 

[TexasTightwad]

Can't find it anymore, but I thought I saw a post where someone mentioned that actions after a specific SN# already have the new bolt head upgrade. Does anyone remember what that serial numbers range was?

I didn't come across a post like that while I was looking for the one quoted above. But it does say in that email that all the actions from then on (at least the ones going through PVA) would ship with the redesigned bolt heads. So I would say it would be reasonable to guess that if an action shipped after December 28th, it probably has the new bolt head.

Anyone experiencing a catch when trying to open and cycle the bolt? If applying downward pressure on the bolt handle, it cycles fairly smooth. If applying any upward amount of pressure, it binds up and the bolt will not cycle reward. I’ve got consecutive serial numbers, but only 1 is experiencing this.

That's a new one on me. Let me make sure I am understanding correctly: you are experiencing difficulties after the bolt is unlocked and you are trying to move it rearward, and it only occurs if there is upward pressure on the handle?

 

[Triple D]

That's a new one on me. Let me make sure I am understanding correctly: you are experiencing difficulties after the bolt is unlocked and you are trying to move it rearward, and it only occurs if there is upward pressure on the handle?

Yes. If you’re in the prone position, it’s not prevalent, but from a barricade or a position where you are over the rifle/action, you get a catch to where it doesn’t want to cycle. Not sure if it’s a timing issue or the lugs on this particular bolt face.

Guess I can install another bolt face and see if the problem goes away.

 

[hereinaz]

@karagias @Jon_ARC

So when I got my action back from ARC, my .380 (.378) bolt head was not with it. I called them and they said that they had found some sort of defect in the .380 bolt heads, one that nobody but them had noticed yet. They said that they would send me one from a new batch once they got some made. The guy I talked to said they would try to keep up with the fact that they needed to send me one, but I might have to call and remind them.

I haven't been able to shoot in a while, so I only got around to calling to remind them last week, and they quickly sent it to me. I just got it in the mail and found that the lug cams have been redesigned!!!

I swapped bolt heads and, man - the difference is huge! The redesigned lug cams make the action cycle so much more smoothly! As I've discussed before, with my other bolt head (old design lug cams), when the lugs make contact there is an abrupt catch that takes 8.5 lbs of force to overcome. With this one, you can still feel when the lugs make contact if you are paying attention; however it only takes 3.25 lbs of force to close and it feels like a smooth transition rather than a catch.

ARC did a great job on this redesign, and I appreciate that they listened to my feedback and decided to try something new. Virtual high-five, Ted! I only wish both of my bolt heads had the new lugs!

Pics of the new bolt head, please.

 

[TexasTightwad]

Pics of the new bolt head, please.

I plan on posting some comparison photos.

 

[Ledzep]

For anyone looking to tune up there nucleus for there trigger of choice I would recommend it at your own risk of course, use good judgment but this is my experience. First let me say by no means would I consider my action as I recieved it to have had any issues or that arc could possibly have done a nicer job on design and build at this price. That said I decided to order a second cocking piece and try and tune the action to my trigger a little better. I cringed when I saw someone recommend taking a file to this new action but after calling arc I figured for about a 40$ risk I would give it a go and after looking around here and talking to the guys at pva I had nothing to lose. I took a few thousandths off the cocking piece at a time being sure to maintain the original shape then left about .005” of cock on close and i can say the feel when running my action is even better than I expected .even when run very slowly the bolt manipulation is smooth. I cannot stress it enough when run properly the action as I recieved it was fanstastic and there was no noticible issues that would in any way affect function but I’m not one to leave good enough alone. I had three triggers on hand and every one of them produced different results when installed I wanted to replicate the feel of the one that caused the least cock on close. This is a perfect example of how an action manufacturer cannot account for the variation in trigger designs two of those triggers were both tt diamonds and both caused different results in the same action
I’m in no way an expert or even qualified but I greatly improved the feel of my action by fitting it to my trigger for what that’s worth to anyone on the fence about modification like I was
This action was going to be a second rifle for me to practice with and it will now replace my defiance as my match rifle

I just took maybe .010-.015 off of the surface on my sear and it does improve things tremendously if you have an annoying cock-on-close hitch. YMMV, do so yourself at your own risk, etc...

That said, this condition is vastly preferable to that on another rifle (not a nucleus), where the sear surfaces are too far apart by default. The bolt basically works to close itself, but lifting the bolt handle on a cocked bolt I run into a hitch 3/4 the way up. Non-issue if I fire the rifle because there is no more sear engagement, but an annoyance nonetheless. As near as I can tell, I'd have to build up a small weld, then reshape the part and work my way back down with files. I'm less keen to perform that operation.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I just took maybe .010-.015 off of the surface on my sear and it does improve things tremendously if you have an annoying cock-on-close hitch. YMMV, do so yourself at your own risk, etc...

That said, this condition is vastly preferable to that on another rifle (not a nucleus), where the sear surfaces are too far apart by default. The bolt basically works to close itself, but lifting the bolt handle on a cocked bolt I run into a hitch 3/4 the way up. Non-issue if I fire the rifle because there is no more sear engagement, but an annoyance nonetheless. As near as I can tell, I'd have to build up a small weld, then reshape the part and work my way back down with files. I'm less keen to perform that operation.

you got any before and after photos?? sounds interesting

 

[Anderson_A]

Just so everyone knows I’m sure this isn’t a modification that ARC approves or anything like that I did so at my own risk but I have a new Unmodified piece and my current modified piece I can get some pics of when I get a chance
I just shortened the sear surface a few thou at a time while being careful to maintain the shape of the original engagement surface checking feel and measuring each time I also left some overlap

 

[Ledzep]

No before, but here's a couple after.

I'll second what Anderson_A said, again. I'm sure Ted doesn't approve, and you'll get appropriately charged if you need a replacement, void warranty, and if there's any safety issues that develop it's all on you.

 

[chadrp]

Will shaving off off the cocking piece or sear lead to less firing spring pressure and could cause a greater chance of light primer strikes with the 16lb spring?

 

[Skunkworx]

Yea, the more material you remove from the striker the less travel and energy it will have.

 

[chadrp]

Yea, the more material you remove from the striker the less travel and energy it will have.

That's what I figured but didn't want to aasume. Thanks

 

[jerryrva]

I am planning on ordering a Nucleus when I get my tax refund. Probably by the time I do get it, all the bugs will be out of the action.

 

[Skunkworx]

I wouldn’t worry about it at this point

 

[TexasTightwad]

Here are some photos of my bolt heads. The redesigned .380/.378 one is always on the right, and the old .475/.473 one is on the left. I did the best to get good lighting on the lug cams, but it is hard when they are so small and everything is black. Also notice that the ejector slot is deeper on the new design.

http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/fakeemcfakersonfusion360/library/Nucleus Bolt Heads

 

[spife7980]

 

[TexasTightwad]

Thanks for reposting the pictures. I tried just attaching them but it wasn't working for me.

 

[jongurley]

Is ARC replacing the 308 bolt head to ones that Dont have the catch feel

 

[lash]

Is ARC replacing the 308 bolt head to ones that Dont have the catch feel

I really don’t want to be a jerk, but would you please just read the furkin’ thread. This question has been answered in this thread at least four times already.

Or,

We could just hand you the info so that you don’t have to actually read anything, along with your participation trophy.