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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

What can are you using on the 50bmg? How do you like it?
Using an Elite Iron on my 375ct but looking for a can for the 50 has always been difficult



QUOTE="wooferocau, post: 11267496, member: 35791"]
Never ceases to amaze me.....50 BMG.

Just changed over from my 375CT barrel...
Sight in...120yds... 3 shots after adjustment.. :)
[/QUOTE]
 
The TBAC is the real deal.

The only ?? are if you can accept the 2 feet of length (almost) and the $5000 price tag

For me, it’s a novelty device bc I mainly shoot 50 BMG for shits and giggles. And I don’t think I’m willing to pay $5000 plus stamp for a 2-foot long novelty

 
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The TBAC is the real deal.

The only ?? are if you can accept the 2 feet of length (almost) and the $5000 price tag

For me, it’s a novelty device bc I mainly shoot 50 BMG for shits and giggles. And I don’t think I’m willing to pay $5000 plus stamp for a 2-foot long novelty

I’d like to see TBAC offer it in steel at a significant drop in price. For $5k there will be some who buy it, but that’s a lot of cheddar for a suppressor.
 
Looks like he’s using a terminator T6 brake

Like most, I don’t use a 50 cal can, I use a large brake too. If I were going to use a can it would probably be the upcoming TBAC can

Hey woofer what’s your velocity with 218 grains of 2218? And what brass/primer?
Yep...using the T6 Brake........ Its an awesome brake !!! turns the 50 into a real pussycat.. :)

Velocity is around 2580fps... Using RWS Primers ...RWS and Hornady Brass

Its interesting in regards to the 50bmg......"Most" dismiss it as a long range cartridge... I have found the opposite.
The 50 is the most consistent round i have used out to 2500mtrs....yep the 375CT is flatter , but the 50 is ( in my setup) more consistent and far more accurate!!
 
No ...it's a mild load actually.
That’s the funny thing about H50 BMG - that is over the book Max load and yet it’s mild and the velocity would suggest you, correct

Yet on other forms, I have heard people say don’t dare go over 215 grains or you’ll blow yourself up

One of these days I’m gonna just have to try it myself
IMG_5195.png
 
Yep...using the T6 Brake........ Its an awesome brake !!! turns the 50 into a real pussycat.. :)

Velocity is around 2580fps... Using RWS Primers ...RWS and Hornady Brass

Its interesting in regards to the 50bmg......"Most" dismiss it as a long range cartridge... I have found the opposite.
The 50 is the most consistent round i have used out to 2500mtrs....yep the 375CT is flatter , but the 50 is ( in my setup) more consistent and far more accurate!!
That 2850 is with a factory barrel or did you go and get a custom one spun up?
 
I think he is saying 2580 with a 29 inch barrel and his charge.

That Hodgkin data, if you go and look in their book, is with a 45 inch barrel. Several of the manuals are like that and I have no idea why they are using a test barrel that is easily 10 to 15 inches longer than the longest barrel anyone uses, me being the rare exception at 40 inches.
IMG_5196.png
 
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They’re all shooters because of the way that barrel is clamped into the action with four bolts along 5 inches.

Of course, I’m not sure you get good results with a raggedy ass Remington barrel no matter how many inches you clamp it in, but the clamp is providing inherent accuracy
I think they bush their bolts, and the lockup the way the bolt is made can't hurt either!
 
Not Desert Tech...but still bloody impressive.

Took the HTI 50 bmg out today to shoot at 2000mtrs..
Also took one of my old classic sniper Rifles...1942 Enfield No4T .303 .. .original with its 2.5x ...yes " Two Point Five" power optic.

Shot at 1100 yds at one of the IPSC plates and one of the 14" plates.

6 shots at the 14"...3 hits
6 shots at the IPSC plate....4 hits ( 2 just at bottom of plate!!)

Bloody great old classic....
Apologies for the non DT related content..
 

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BTW......50bmg at 2000mtrs..
 

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I think they bush their bolts, and the lockup the way the bolt is made can't hurt either!
"Bushing the bolt" is, as I understand it, a post-manufacturing end-user modification to reduce the firing pin hole size in the bolt.

Why would the manufacturer do that? If they wanted a smaller firing pin hole, why wouldn't they just drill it smaller?

Can somebody please explain this to me?

Including why it would affect accuracy in any way, which also doesn't make any sense at all
 
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That’s a “pickup” for my fellow northern hemisphere folks
having lived in oz for a while..not strictly true, this is a UTE

but most people found a true ute, not so practical so the term has come into common use to refer to what the much of the world calls a pickup, but I'm a bit of a purest =)

Oh if you're going to drive a true ute, and you're going full bogan then a mullet is 100% required.
 
"Bushing the bolt" is, as I understand it, a post-manufacturing end-user modification to reduce the firing pin hole size in the bolt.

Why would the manufacturer do that? If they wanted a smaller firing pin hole, why wouldn't they just drill it smaller?

Can somebody please explain this to me?

Including why it would affect accuracy in any way, which also doesn't make any sense at all
From what I have heard it helps to reduce primer deformation and prevents drag on the pin. I'm no expert, but looking at two of my unused bolts there seems to be clear evidence of bushing. Borden is bushing their bolts now. Again no expert.
 
"Bushing the bolt" is, as I understand it, a post-manufacturing end-user modification to reduce the firing pin hole size in the bolt.

Why would the manufacturer do that? If they wanted a smaller firing pin hole, why wouldn't they just drill it smaller?

Can somebody please explain this to me?

Including why it would affect accuracy in any way, which also doesn't make any sense at all
Busing a bolt is usually something that is done to reduce the size hole of the firing pin. It is usually done after the manufacturing process. It usually entails reducing the size hole for the firing pin. Gunsmiths often times reduce the diameter of the firing pin at the same time.

Smaller pins and firing pin holes can reduce primer movement around the firing pin. Busing bolts has been common over the years for some non magnum calibers when shooting small rifle primers. I know many AI users who had bolts bushed back in the days when they wanted to shoot 6.5x47 which utilizes small primers. AI now uses small firing pins, so there is not need to bush bolts and turn down pins to shoot small rifle primer cases in their rifle systems.

Bushing bolts may be done after the fact by manufacturers. It could be to correct firing pin hole diameters or to correct manufacturing imperfections.
 
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Is there any slack in your SRS-A2 triggers? One of mine has a decent amount of take up before it hits the all. It’s not gritty at all, it’s just a but of slack. It did have horrendous creep before it broke. You could literally break the trigger in stages if you wanted to. I pulled the transfer bar and sear and had to sand the contact surfaces down as they looked bad by the naked eye. Apparently these were unfinished from the factory. My other SRS-A2 has a trigger shoe that doesn’t move until it breaks clean.
 
I ran a 36" .338LM Improved in my Covert for years ;)

These days that chassis is dedicated to 16.5 - 20 inch barrels, of which a 16.5" 6.5x47L is a really damned good setup, especially suppressed. My only headache is that even with a 5-25x Ultra Short on it, I struggle to fit even my shortest clip-on for night shooting.

1701991090025.png


The UNS-A3 is the only one that comes close (ClipNV-LR is a bit sketchy and PVS-27 is a no go), but it's really no good past 10x magnification.

Edit: serious First World Problems, I know.
 
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Is there any slack in your SRS-A2 triggers? One of mine has a decent amount of take up before it hits the all. It’s not gritty at all, it’s just a but of slack. It did have horrendous creep before it broke. You could literally break the trigger in stages if you wanted to. I pulled the transfer bar and sear and had to sand the contact surfaces down as they looked bad by the naked eye. Apparently these were unfinished from the factory. My other SRS-A2 has a trigger shoe that doesn’t move until it breaks clean.
I grabbed a few A2 and M2 chassis out of the safes here and tried out the triggers. With the exception of one, all were like your other A2, where there was zero movement before the triggers broke nice and clean. The one that we had, which was different, had a very slight amount take up before breaking cleanly. It did not have the horrendous creep you experienced with one of your rifles.