Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Anyone have any short varmint/coyote caliber barrels that they don’t use? Looking for 16.5-20” for thermal night hunting
SPECIAL PURPOSE RIFLES
Specialpurposerifles.com is operated by Black Rifle Works, LLC and is located in Salt Lake City, UT. We began business in 2009 and over the last 6 years we have focused our efforts on supplying long range enthusiasts with the best gear available.
www.specialpurposerifles.com
Yes.
The only limitation is fitting an early Gen 1 (pre-2010) barrel into any other generation of SRS, because the early Gen 1 extension indexed off of a pin in the receiver. Later Gen 1 and beyond index off of the feed ramp instead, which is a far more robust method.
The only limitation is fitting an early Gen 1 (pre-2010) barrel into any other generation of SRS, because the early Gen 1 extension indexed off of a pin in the receiver. Later Gen 1 and beyond index off of the feed ramp instead, which is a far more robust method.
I knew it was dangerous to go meet @PRDRIVER at his shop Special Purpose Rifles yesterday supposedly to get an ARCA rail and my suspicions were warranted, since I walked out with a new SRS A2 chassis. Just finished setting it up. Pretty nice little upgrade (in terms of weight, mostly, and I like the new color and fore end). Trigger not *quite* as nice as my A1 which broke clean at 28 oz, no creep. This one breaks at 32oz. Could probably get it to 28 but I'm not going to bother for now. I'm pretty pleased how it turned out. TT 5-25 Gen2XR, Spuhr, EI Revolution with leg extensions, MKM single shot sled, SAC223 and TBAC ultra 30 7". 16.25# as configured, could lose 2+# by jettisoning the can, monopod, and bipod, and shed another 1.5# with a lighter (e.g., 20 oz) scope and some lightweight alloy rings. And maybe another pound with a lightweight barrel. So I'm guessing a 9.5# hunting rig is possible, for the weight weenies among you.
(Also, my A1 chassis is now up for sale on the PX if anybody is looking for an affordable entry point into the DT obsession.)
(Also, my A1 chassis is now up for sale on the PX if anybody is looking for an affordable entry point into the DT obsession.)
Last edited:
I did a modification to the trigger and got it to 28 oz like my A1.
To do that, you need to unscrew the single trigger weight screw. Totally different trigger compared to the A1, you have to take off the skins because it faces forward towards the muzzle. To get to 28 oz, you need that screw turned in just 1/4 turn from falling out. You can't really take it out because there's a spring in there that's attached to the trigger mechanism.
1/4 turn leaves little purchase for the threads, which I sealed with RED 271 locktite. BUT, the small mod I did, which I think was worthwhile was this:
The screw has a convex distal end (the front of the screw - the proximal end is a 2.0mm hex). I used a diamond file to grind the distal "cone" flat. Probably removed only 0.002" or so. But given the thread pitch, it was enough to allow another 1/8 of a turn or so inwards, allowing more purchase for the threads, so it is not as much at risk for falling out. With that and the red locktite, I think I have a solid and dependable setting that just allows 28oz with enough screw threads in the mechanism that it will not fall out. YMMV, but there is little risk to filing off the convex end of the screw - it will leave you with the same "insertion depth" of the threads, but slightly less push on the spring, and about 4 oz less pull weight. Very happy with the result so far, but have only dry fired it and banged the butt of the rifle on the floor to make sure there is no risk of misfire.
To do that, you need to unscrew the single trigger weight screw. Totally different trigger compared to the A1, you have to take off the skins because it faces forward towards the muzzle. To get to 28 oz, you need that screw turned in just 1/4 turn from falling out. You can't really take it out because there's a spring in there that's attached to the trigger mechanism.
1/4 turn leaves little purchase for the threads, which I sealed with RED 271 locktite. BUT, the small mod I did, which I think was worthwhile was this:
The screw has a convex distal end (the front of the screw - the proximal end is a 2.0mm hex). I used a diamond file to grind the distal "cone" flat. Probably removed only 0.002" or so. But given the thread pitch, it was enough to allow another 1/8 of a turn or so inwards, allowing more purchase for the threads, so it is not as much at risk for falling out. With that and the red locktite, I think I have a solid and dependable setting that just allows 28oz with enough screw threads in the mechanism that it will not fall out. YMMV, but there is little risk to filing off the convex end of the screw - it will leave you with the same "insertion depth" of the threads, but slightly less push on the spring, and about 4 oz less pull weight. Very happy with the result so far, but have only dry fired it and banged the butt of the rifle on the floor to make sure there is no risk of misfire.
It was brought to my attention that someone has created two different accounts trying to pretend that he is me.
He has created accounts named .PRDRIVER and PRDRIVER. - My account does not have a period in front or behind it.
This Fraudster then contacted one individual who expressed interest in one of my listings. He tried to pretend like he was me and sent a PayPal invoice to the buyer trying to buy a Chassis we had listed. Luckily the customer thought something was fishy and called us at our shop.
He could have easily lost out on $1600.
I think this is something that everyone should be aware of, as this individual is most likely doing this to other people in the SnipersHide Post Exchange.
Make sure you are messaging with the original person who posted the listing. Look Out for someone who has created a new account on SnipersHide by dropping a period in front or behind a name on SnipersHide. You can look at information on their account as to when it was created and the type of feedback they have received.
Thanks,
Rob W.
SpecialPurposeRifles.com
He has created accounts named .PRDRIVER and PRDRIVER. - My account does not have a period in front or behind it.
This Fraudster then contacted one individual who expressed interest in one of my listings. He tried to pretend like he was me and sent a PayPal invoice to the buyer trying to buy a Chassis we had listed. Luckily the customer thought something was fishy and called us at our shop.
He could have easily lost out on $1600.
I think this is something that everyone should be aware of, as this individual is most likely doing this to other people in the SnipersHide Post Exchange.
Make sure you are messaging with the original person who posted the listing. Look Out for someone who has created a new account on SnipersHide by dropping a period in front or behind a name on SnipersHide. You can look at information on their account as to when it was created and the type of feedback they have received.
Thanks,
Rob W.
SpecialPurposeRifles.com
As always, It was great to have you in the shop and spend some time with you.
You may or may not be glad that I didn't show you the 22.5" Proof Carbon .223 barrel. It's significantly lighter than my DT profiled .223 barrel.
Removing the monopod will cut out about 7 oz. Removing the two butt spacers will take out another 5 oz. An ultra gen 2 suppressor may take out a couple more ounces. I love the EI bipod, but there are much lighter offerings out there if you are after losing some weight.
I love how your rifle is set up.
Hello my name is PDRIVER and I have carbon DTA barrels for sale. Hit me up. Link to my offshore Nigeria website. I will beat any prices...guaranteed accurate and compatible with any chassis. 
Oh man if it was only so easy to spot. I replied to my listing after someone expressed interest in it saying we still have it. He had a .PRDRIVER and a PRDRIVER. sending him messages. He asked a buddy if my account looked legit and his buddy told him everything looked good. I'm glad he decided to look us up and give us a call at the shop.Hello my name is PDRIVER and I have carbon DTA barrels for sale. Hit me up. Link to my offshore Nigeria website. I will beat any prices...guaranteed accurate and compatible with any chassis.
It sounds like this has been a significant problem in the PX the past month or so. I just wanted to give people a heads up. I don't want people to get scammed and I certainly don't want angry people calling me up asking where the products are that they purchased after having unknowingly paying a fraudster.
Everyone, i just bought a SRS A2 and was interested in two different barrels, the 6 GT and the 300 WSM. I have seen a few members mention the 6 GT and wanted to make sure it would feed reliably. I've not seen anyone mention running a 300 WSM, will it work in this platform?
with the SRS already long action ready, there are a bunch of other choices vs 300 WSM, unless you are already running the 300 in other guns
My thoughts exactly. Same thing with the 6 GT. It was a caliber designed to address issues competitors were having with the 6 Dasher in match rifles. It can run in an SRS, but there are better options in my opinion.
The purpose of the 6 gt for me was to find something as close to the br/dasher as possible that would run in the DT platform and also use varget or N140. I have a shit ton of both. I’m a huge fan of the br/dasher and wanted something like that in this rifle. As for the 300 wsm I’ve always liked that round but I’m really considering the 7 prc instead
7prc is a nice option (i'm building one now).
I think its a nice point in the higher power than the 308 based cases, but not so much of a barrel burner that when you finish load development its almost time to buy a new tube.
In the DTA you can run nearly any OAL you want and not run into mag length limitations. With the 190 A-tip you have one of the best BC's of any 6.5/30 caliber. Sure the 338's/375's go higher, but you get tons more recoil, and at that point your almost into needing a HTI. I'm sure @PRDRIVER can hook you up if you want to setup up to that platform
I think its a nice point in the higher power than the 308 based cases, but not so much of a barrel burner that when you finish load development its almost time to buy a new tube.
In the DTA you can run nearly any OAL you want and not run into mag length limitations. With the 190 A-tip you have one of the best BC's of any 6.5/30 caliber. Sure the 338's/375's go higher, but you get tons more recoil, and at that point your almost into needing a HTI. I'm sure @PRDRIVER can hook you up if you want to setup up to that platform
For the price and diff in BC, the 180 ELD-M is hard to beat.
Also should not forget 7mm RM (and 7 LRM) as it has significantly more displacement (w/o getting into RUM, STW, and 28 nosler territory).
You just need your smith to use a reamer with enough freebore to load the 180-190s to 3.550” or so, to take advantage of the case capacity.
The only “trick” of the 7PRC, besides shedding the belt, is that the SAAMI spec reamer has a long freebore.
All of the above, plus my long affinity (no pun intended!) for the 7RM is why it’s likely to be my next barrel, w a custom reamer.
Also should not forget 7mm RM (and 7 LRM) as it has significantly more displacement (w/o getting into RUM, STW, and 28 nosler territory).
You just need your smith to use a reamer with enough freebore to load the 180-190s to 3.550” or so, to take advantage of the case capacity.
The only “trick” of the 7PRC, besides shedding the belt, is that the SAAMI spec reamer has a long freebore.
All of the above, plus my long affinity (no pun intended!) for the 7RM is why it’s likely to be my next barrel, w a custom reamer.
I had been looking at the 7mm heavies, as the PRC will send them fast enough, didn't look over my shoulder for a better price/performance ratio. Fortunately I hadn't stocked up on them yet. A quick search found the 180's for about 0.37/ea, so I bought 'em, many other places have them for .40-42/ea, which is way better than the nearly.75/ea for the atip.
Totally agree with this assessment.
The A-tips Are for special applications where you don’t shoot them that much. And you need all the performance that you can get.
Outside of that, the 180 ELD – M is the way to go. It is a phenomenal bullet at around 2900 ft./s. And often you can get more.
The A-tips Are for special applications where you don’t shoot them that much. And you need all the performance that you can get.
Outside of that, the 180 ELD – M is the way to go. It is a phenomenal bullet at around 2900 ft./s. And often you can get more.
Absolutely agree with this, ELDM's are where the money is made. Especially at the butcher block.
I'm launching the 180 ELDM at 3050 out of a 26" 7mm RM DTA barrel.
Haven't hit anything but steel with it yet, but the numbers are pretty impressive.
Haven't hit anything but steel with it yet, but the numbers are pretty impressive.
So, reloading… 6.5 Creedmoor, finally got the Garmin Chrono.
I had settled on 44.4g of Staball behind a 140gr SMK BTHP on Federal Primer. Finally got a chrono on it today. 2900FPS. 150FPS faster than the factory Norma or Hornady. No pressure signs. SD of 7, ES of 14. That’s some oomph out of the 6.5 from that little case.
I had settled on 44.4g of Staball behind a 140gr SMK BTHP on Federal Primer. Finally got a chrono on it today. 2900FPS. 150FPS faster than the factory Norma or Hornady. No pressure signs. SD of 7, ES of 14. That’s some oomph out of the 6.5 from that little case.
With my 6.5 Creed DTA I'm getting 3017 fps with a 26" barrel using the 140 ELDM and RL26. I'm pretty sure that's a bit hot, but I'm not seeing any noticeable pressure signs. It is a little tough to get 47 grains in a Lapua case with room for a bullet though.
Stock 26”. Ran the 140gr Norma’s and 143gr Hornady ELDX, factory 26” was 2750, Proof Research 16” was 2550. Good SD and ES, dead nuts accurate. I’ll run the hand loads through the 16” and see if it tracks. Trying to replicate velocities between the 16” and 26” at various loads (same Dope).
So, since I bought my M2 last summer I’ve just been shooting the 22” 308 barrel(which has been awesome) but not I’m looking at picking up another short action barrel in 6mm or 6.5. My initial plan was to buy an extension and a blank and have a 6GT barrel made because it’s the smallest and most “efficient” 6mm I can make work in the SRS platform.
problem is, I’m a sucker for a deal and I hate waiting for things which brings me to a few places up in Canada land that are having decent sales on A1 barrels/ conversion kits.
There is a really good deal on a factory A1 26” 6.5x47 Lapua barrel or a good deal on a factory A1 260rem conversion kit 26” with 1:8.5 twist. Or I go custom with a 6GT and was thinking a 1.250” profile at 30”. This would be a dedicated target barrel and I hand load everything.
What would you pick?
problem is, I’m a sucker for a deal and I hate waiting for things which brings me to a few places up in Canada land that are having decent sales on A1 barrels/ conversion kits.
There is a really good deal on a factory A1 26” 6.5x47 Lapua barrel or a good deal on a factory A1 260rem conversion kit 26” with 1:8.5 twist. Or I go custom with a 6GT and was thinking a 1.250” profile at 30”. This would be a dedicated target barrel and I hand load everything.
What would you pick?
The 6.5x47 A1 barrel is $1400
The 260 A1 kit(barrel, bolt, 6 round mag) is $2240
The custom barrel would be about $1430 finished.
Keep in mind, these are Canadian prices, and with the 260 kit I would probably sell the bolt assembly because I already have a 473 A2 bolt.
I've had DT barrels in 6.5x47 and .260 Rem. Both are great. If deciding between those 2, I'd go with whichever one you have brass and primers for.
I have a new 6 GT barrel here on the shelf (DT Profile built off a Hawk Hill Blank) 26" non fluted I'd sell you. It would need to go through an exporter/importer. We have used irunguns (US Exporter/Canadian Importer).
I have some constructive criticism for Desert Tech:
Spend less time (and $$$) playing around, making pretend Hollywood YouTube videos, and shore up the warranty department, redouble QC efforts, invest some time and money in TRASOL, and fix the website.
We civilians don’t give a damn about your newest full auto stuff that we can’t own. This is your egomaniacal fantasy, not ours. We just want stuff to work and people to answer the phone.
It borders on the offensive to see this misappropriation of resources and effort when the interwebs are full of complaints about warranties and customer service and the BBB won’t even rate you.
Sincerely,
An owner of multiple DT rifles since 2013
PS, I don't know who is the intended audience of that video (actually, I do), but I found it painful to watch; even at 2x playback speed, I couldn't make it more than 1/2 way through it.
Spend less time (and $$$) playing around, making pretend Hollywood YouTube videos, and shore up the warranty department, redouble QC efforts, invest some time and money in TRASOL, and fix the website.
We civilians don’t give a damn about your newest full auto stuff that we can’t own. This is your egomaniacal fantasy, not ours. We just want stuff to work and people to answer the phone.
It borders on the offensive to see this misappropriation of resources and effort when the interwebs are full of complaints about warranties and customer service and the BBB won’t even rate you.
Sincerely,
An owner of multiple DT rifles since 2013
PS, I don't know who is the intended audience of that video (actually, I do), but I found it painful to watch; even at 2x playback speed, I couldn't make it more than 1/2 way through it.
Last edited:
1000% Agree !!!
Oh!!!! and being from a Land Down Under.... "If " our lawmakers and gun control persons seen THAT particular video...then i guarantee Aussie,s will no longer have the privilege of using the Desert Tech product in ANY shape or form !!!!!
Makes total sense. The company changed its name years ago from Desert Tactical Arms to Desert Tech for that very reason. You'd think they would be cognizant of that very issue when putting out promotional videos.1000% Agree !!!
Oh!!!! and being from a Land Down Under.... "If " our lawmakers and gun control persons seen THAT particular video...then i guarantee Aussie,s will no longer have the privilege of using the Desert Tech product in ANY shape or form !!!!!
As a consumer, I'm not going to buy a Quattro because of a full auto video. Certainly some firearms are purchased because they are used in video games. I'm with you and secondofangle on this. Allocate those resources to showcase what makes the wolverine different from the MDRX, reassure consumers that their MDRx will continue to be covered under their lifetime warranty and that parts and conversion kits will be readily available going forward.
What projectiles were you planning on shooting out of the 300 NM with the 1/7 twist?
I haven’t looked at mine yet, but could a man cut a coil off the spring to allow the screw to thread in more than just 1/4 round and essentially end up with similar spring pressure but with more thread engagement?
I believe that DT has swapped springs out with consumers to help end users drop their trigger weight down to the low end of the factory trigger specs. May be worth a call to the warranty department.
New to me dta SRS a1. Got it Thursday night, the other morning I pulled the skins, cleaned, blasted and coated them green. Threw some aluminum in the Bridgeport milling machine and carved out a full length arca rail, this morning I grabbed a new k&p .308 1-8.5 twist barrel blank and profiled it, chambered it in 300 Norma improved and by this afternoon I'm on my second round of break in, shoot a few and clean, get scope close to zeroing in the process. Did a 37xc barrel a bit ago for it. Want one small package to travel with and be able to shoot light gun and heavy gun in some matches when I don't have room to take a lot of guns and gear. Special purpose rifles was good to me with barrel extensions, neighbor had a spare bolt and magazine I bought and I made a solid aluminum mag filler for single feeding so there's no mag hanging to catch my bag hand.
