Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

I haven’t looked at mine yet, but could a man cut a coil off the spring to allow the screw to thread in more than just 1/4 round and essentially end up with similar spring pressure but with more thread engagement?
I believe that DT has swapped springs out with consumers to help end users drop their trigger weight down to the low end of the factory trigger specs. May be worth a call to the warranty department.
 
I believe that DT has swapped springs out with consumers to help end users drop their trigger weight down to the low end of the factory trigger specs. May be worth a call to the warranty department.
I’ll try that. One of mine goes down to 2.25lbs which is plenty good. The other will only go down to just under 3lbs and is the one I would like at least 1/2lb lower.
 
New to me dta SRS a1. Got it Thursday night, the other morning I pulled the skins, cleaned, blasted and coated them green. Threw some aluminum in the Bridgeport milling machine and carved out a full length arca rail, this morning I grabbed a new k&p .308 1-8.5 twist barrel blank and profiled it, chambered it in 300 Norma improved and by this afternoon I'm on my second round of break in, shoot a few and clean, get scope close to zeroing in the process. Did a 37xc barrel a bit ago for it. Want one small package to travel with and be able to shoot light gun and heavy gun in some matches when I don't have room to take a lot of guns and gear. Special purpose rifles was good to me with barrel extensions, neighbor had a spare bolt and magazine I bought and I made a solid aluminum mag filler for single feeding so there's no mag hanging to catch my bag hand.
 

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Less DT, more just “wow, this is precise.”

Running Factory Hornady 338LM 270gr Hunting ELDX rounds through the Factory DT conversion to obliterate Clementines and small apples at 250yds (farthest any local range goes). Finally grabbed a Garmin Xero Chronograph to check my prior estimated dope.

1) That Chrono is So painless to set up. If you haven’t yet, just buy one.

2) Those 338LM rounds are doing 2845 FPS with an ES of 12 and SD of 6 over 20 rounds. SD of 6 over 20 rounds. Need a higher N for a significant P value, but, to hell with that, SD of 6 is tight.

Did the same for the 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady Precision Hunter; Velocity of 2754 with SD of 9 and ES of 17 over a hundred rounds. That’s a sufficient N.

Tried other factory ammunition with hilarious SD’s and ES’s, but, that Hornady Precision Hunter stuff… that’s not mucking around.

I still hand load, but, kind of debating why anymore. I did manage to push Desert Tech Brass with 140gr AMAX on 44.4gr of Staball to 2950 FPS, so, some velocity to be gained.
 
Nah, nerds would talk about computing chi values and use stochastic sampling.
100%.
I did enough statistics in college and medical school and residency to do those.
Haven’t in… 20 years.
If I want to do some original research, first stop is statistics department for help. Where they’ll turn a half hatched thought into a viable question. I haven’t published since 2007 or so; more straight clinical these days.

Regardless, NERDDDDD…

And those factory loads are ridiculously tight.
 
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Selling the Zeiss S5 LRP on my HTI for a crazy low price if anybody needs a scope with 41 MRAD of internal travel. Barely used, perfect condition. Gets me out to 3250 yards with a 100 yard zero.

 
Selling the Zeiss S5 LRP on my HTI for a crazy low price if anybody needs a scope with 41 MRAD of internal travel. Barely used, perfect condition. Gets me out to 3250 yards with a 100 yard zero.

Very nice set-up!
 
Selling the Zeiss S5 LRP on my HTI for a crazy low price if anybody needs a scope with 41 MRAD of internal travel. Barely used, perfect condition. Gets me out to 3250 yards with a 100 yard zero.

Do i detect a 6-36 in the wind?
Succumbing to " Peer " pressure.... :LOL:
 
Great shoot today...
Myself and a couple of friends..
300Win mags and trusty 308..at 1200yds....varying wind left/right..( strong at times!!)
 

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Seems like you like the 6-36 with the “395 cm” of elevation and the giant Tourette’s that give you a fraction of .1 MRAD per click. Am I correct? And what are your thoughts on those turret and why did you choose them?

ASKING BECAUSE I just ordered the 35MRAD DT turrets today. Did I make a mistake?

Also, what is the purpose of the pic rail on the front of the fore end ahead of the scope?
 
Those multi turn turrets give you more elevation than the double turn turrets. The DT35 gives you the most for a double turn turret, but the clicks are very close together, so some people don’t like them over the DT27.
 
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Not sure if this is the right place to post this. I did a search (limited, from phone) and didn't find anything.

I have a new SRS-M2 chassis, and with a used 308 bolt/barrel. I've put 150 rounds thru since 'building' it, and I've had a nightmare with failure to extract. This may not be the correct term as I cycled brass thru at home after being really frustrated shooting on a clock, it seems the brass ejects really weakly to 5 o'clock, bounces off my hand, and back into the gun, quite often.

I probably had 30 occurrences of this in an 80rd course of fire at a recent match. I basically ran the match constantly eyeing the chamber while I ran the bolt and having to tilt the gun to dump spent rounds. Needless to say, my performance was significantly hindered by this, and it was quite annoying for how much cash I dumped into this rifle.

When I got home, thinking it was a weak ejector spring or bad extractor profile, I swapped to the brand new bolt. With the new bolt the extraction is ever so slightly stronger, but still hits me in the hand every time I run the bolt, bouncing back into the gun every so often.

This is a pretty huge issue for a rifle at this price point and I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions for this?

I have reached out to DTI as well, but if it happened to me with 2x different bolts I'm guessing somebody has addressed this issue before.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this isn't posted in the right place.
 
I'm fixing to take the factory brakes off my 50 and 416 HTI barrels to try out my Elite Iron Alpha 50 can. Do these have loctite or anything that anyone is aware of? Thanks
Yes....you will need to hold the barrel in a couple of pieces of soft pine wood or such in a vice.
You will need to heat the brake where the thread is with a heat gun....you will smell the locate cook off....then undo.

You will NOT remove without heat!
 
Not sure if this is the right place to post this. I did a search (limited, from phone) and didn't find anything.

I have a new SRS-M2 chassis, and with a used 308 bolt/barrel. I've put 150 rounds thru since 'building' it, and I've had a nightmare with failure to extract. This may not be the correct term as I cycled brass thru at home after being really frustrated shooting on a clock, it seems the brass ejects really weakly to 5 o'clock, bounces off my hand, and back into the gun, quite often.

I probably had 30 occurrences of this in an 80rd course of fire at a recent match. I basically ran the match constantly eyeing the chamber while I ran the bolt and having to tilt the gun to dump spent rounds. Needless to say, my performance was significantly hindered by this, and it was quite annoying for how much cash I dumped into this rifle.

When I got home, thinking it was a weak ejector spring or bad extractor profile, I swapped to the brand new bolt. With the new bolt the extraction is ever so slightly stronger, but still hits me in the hand every time I run the bolt, bouncing back into the gun every so often.

This is a pretty huge issue for a rifle at this price point and I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions for this?

I have reached out to DTI as well, but if it happened to me with 2x different bolts I'm guessing somebody has addressed this issue before.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this isn't posted in the right place.
Post a video of you running the bolt with some empty cases, dummy rounds or if it is safe to do then some live rounds without firing. And when you’re at the range next time, take a video of live fire running the bolt also and that will enable us to assist you better.
 
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Yes....you will need to hold the barrel in a couple of pieces of soft pine wood or such in a vice.
You will need to heat the brake where the thread is with a heat gun....you will smell the locate cook off....then undo.

You will NOT remove without heat!
Thank you. I bought this to hold the barrel in the vise as well.
 

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Not sure if this is the right place to post this. I did a search (limited, from phone) and didn't find anything.

I have a new SRS-M2 chassis, and with a used 308 bolt/barrel. I've put 150 rounds thru since 'building' it, and I've had a nightmare with failure to extract. This may not be the correct term as I cycled brass thru at home after being really frustrated shooting on a clock, it seems the brass ejects really weakly to 5 o'clock, bounces off my hand, and back into the gun, quite often.

I probably had 30 occurrences of this in an 80rd course of fire at a recent match. I basically ran the match constantly eyeing the chamber while I ran the bolt and having to tilt the gun to dump spent rounds. Needless to say, my performance was significantly hindered by this, and it was quite annoying for how much cash I dumped into this rifle.

When I got home, thinking it was a weak ejector spring or bad extractor profile, I swapped to the brand new bolt. With the new bolt the extraction is ever so slightly stronger, but still hits me in the hand every time I run the bolt, bouncing back into the gun every so often.

This is a pretty huge issue for a rifle at this price point and I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions for this?

I have reached out to DTI as well, but if it happened to me with 2x different bolts I'm guessing somebody has addressed this issue before.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this isn't posted in the right place.
As previously suggested, please post take a video next time you are at the range and post it up here.

Are you using the factory short action bolt stop? This can help with ejection.

The SRS likes to be run hard. Running it gingerly will often result in short action non magnum cases not ejecting reliably.
 
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I upgraded to an Orange vise with the Area419 jaws, because I hate money. That comes with a series of barrel inserts and the 1.25” inserts fit the SRS barrels perfectly.
I looked at those a while back but I don't think I seen any big enough for the Hti barrels. They are a very nice set up and I'll probably add one in the next year or so. Probably need to get a job first though.
 
I also kind of like how they chose the mount option for the elite iron bipod to go off of the top Picatinny rail rather than the bottom one. Mine goes off of the bottom one, but I doubt it makes enough difference for it to be worthwhile for me to change, the arrangement that I have
 
Not sure if this is the right place to post this. I did a search (limited, from phone) and didn't find anything.

I have a new SRS-M2 chassis, and with a used 308 bolt/barrel. I've put 150 rounds thru since 'building' it, and I've had a nightmare with failure to extract. This may not be the correct term as I cycled brass thru at home after being really frustrated shooting on a clock, it seems the brass ejects really weakly to 5 o'clock, bounces off my hand, and back into the gun, quite often.

I probably had 30 occurrences of this in an 80rd course of fire at a recent match. I basically ran the match constantly eyeing the chamber while I ran the bolt and having to tilt the gun to dump spent rounds. Needless to say, my performance was significantly hindered by this, and it was quite annoying for how much cash I dumped into this rifle.

When I got home, thinking it was a weak ejector spring or bad extractor profile, I swapped to the brand new bolt. With the new bolt the extraction is ever so slightly stronger, but still hits me in the hand every time I run the bolt, bouncing back into the gun every so often.

This is a pretty huge issue for a rifle at this price point and I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions for this?

I have reached out to DTI as well, but if it happened to me with 2x different bolts I'm guessing somebody has addressed this issue before.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this isn't posted in the right place.
Agree with above. Video of running the bolt, but generally, SRS likes a hard bolt throw.
 
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I upgraded to an Orange vise with the Area419 jaws, because I hate money. That comes with a series of barrel inserts and the 1.25” inserts fit the SRS barrels perfectly.

I love that setup but can't bring myself to spend that much. I had to laugh at your comment because I tell my brother all the time that he hates money.
 
Not sure if this is the right place to post this. I did a search (limited, from phone) and didn't find anything.

I have a new SRS-M2 chassis, and with a used 308 bolt/barrel. I've put 150 rounds thru since 'building' it, and I've had a nightmare with failure to extract. This may not be the correct term as I cycled brass thru at home after being really frustrated shooting on a clock, it seems the brass ejects really weakly to 5 o'clock, bounces off my hand, and back into the gun, quite often.

I probably had 30 occurrences of this in an 80rd course of fire at a recent match. I basically ran the match constantly eyeing the chamber while I ran the bolt and having to tilt the gun to dump spent rounds. Needless to say, my performance was significantly hindered by this, and it was quite annoying for how much cash I dumped into this rifle.

When I got home, thinking it was a weak ejector spring or bad extractor profile, I swapped to the brand new bolt. With the new bolt the extraction is ever so slightly stronger, but still hits me in the hand every time I run the bolt, bouncing back into the gun every so often.

This is a pretty huge issue for a rifle at this price point and I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions for this?

I have reached out to DTI as well, but if it happened to me with 2x different bolts I'm guessing somebody has addressed this issue before.

Thanks in advance and apologies if this isn't posted in the right place.

I ran into this when hunting. It's not really a problem on a bench or prone for me but has happened several times while hunting and trying to make a follow up shot. I think it's more of a hand position on the bolt for me when shooting unsupported due to the bolt lift being heavy.
 
As previously suggested, please post take a video next time you are at the range and post it up here.

Are you using the factory short action bolt stop? This can help with ejection.

The SRS likes to be run hard. Running it gingerly will often result in short action non magnum cases not ejecting reliably.
I have noticed this problem with my 223 WSSM and 6.5 PRC barrels, never had this happen with my 300 WM or 338 LM barrels. I believe most of the problem is the front or neck of the shorter cases get tipped farther to the side when being pulled out through the barrel extension than the longer cases. This allows the ejector plunger spring to extend farther and lose the ability to "flip" the case hard enough to get it out of the rifle properly. I really, really love my SRS! I really like the two short case rounds I have barrels for too, but the DT doesn't run them near as well as the longer case rounds. Magazines are fussy too with these fat short rounds that are a long way from the chamber when leaving the Magazine lips.

Do you have any suggestions or ideas that you know of to make these run better? Available magazines? The 223 WSSM is not very practical in the DT although it is a fun round to shoot, but the 6.5 PRC is awfully nice when it runs semi reliably. I want to get it to run them better. What is the shortest round that you know of working well in the SRS? Who is making the SRS run these reliably?

The DT Magazines work wonderfully with the 338 LM's loaded long with 300 grain Bergers. I love the DT's long 4" cartridge length capability, I load mine at 3.9375" COAL and they run fine.
Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!