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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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The Chassis
It varies, some are a mil off, some are dead on and don't require an offset zero.
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Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
The serial number is machined into the chassis. I would think that would make it the "firearm". I don't know where you heard/read that the chassis can be transferred without an FFL - I'd say that's false.
The barrels and bolts can be transferred without an FFL though. No serial numbers on those guys.
Maybe you're a little lysdexic and just have it backwards...
The serial number is machined into the chassis. I would think that would make it the "firearm". I don't know where you heard/read that the chassis can be transferred without an FFL - I'd say that's false.
The barrels and bolts can be transferred without an FFL though. No serial numbers on those guys.
Maybe you're a little lysdexic and just have it backwards...
The POI shift between barrels is rarely over a mil in either direction I've found and more importantly it's 100% repeatable. So what I've done over the years is pick my most frequently shot barrel and make that the zero barrel or starting point for the others. I zero the turrets to that barrel then, when changing barrels, just apply the offset. For example, my 26" .338LM barrel is zeroed to the turrets but when I switch to the 6.5x47L barrel, I come up 0.4mil and left 0.5mil. The 16" .308WIN barrel is convenient in that it's exactly up 1mil from the zero barrel, so when I switch to it I place the turrets back to 0,0 and just use the 1mil hash above center as my 100 yard hold.
The one thing you need to pay attention to is that offset when dialing new elevation and windage. For example, with my 6.5x47L barrel I read my come ups as "x + 4 clicks." And I often say this to myself out loud when making adjustments just to reinforce it as under stress it's easy to just dial the number and forget about the offset.
The one thing you need to pay attention to is that offset when dialing new elevation and windage. For example, with my 6.5x47L barrel I read my come ups as "x + 4 clicks." And I often say this to myself out loud when making adjustments just to reinforce it as under stress it's easy to just dial the number and forget about the offset.
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I have .308 and .338 lapua conversions (both factory DTA). The POI shift for my .338 is .8mils high and .5mils right of my .308 every single time.
Does anyone have the Covert chassis and the long (not 18" covert length 338) 338 26" SRS?
If so, what's been your experience with the handguard/rail length, or bipod issues with the extra weight fwd of the bipod?
Did you attach a 338 suppressor also?
If so, what's been your experience with the handguard/rail length, or bipod issues with the extra weight fwd of the bipod?
Did you attach a 338 suppressor also?
I run 26" .338LM and 6.5x47L barrels with the covert handguard - no problem. I like the extra stability of the full length handguard, but it's not a huge difference. I've been running the shorter handguard lately because it's just easier to deal with when swapping with shorter barrels. Switching handguards is not something you can do in the field - you need to remove the skins and mount the chassis in a vice and use some serious elbow grease. So you just have to plan accordingly if you want to use the long or short handguard.
When I bought my rifle there was no Covert available so I have(had) the long handguard and the 26" 338 Lapua Mag barrel. I ended up buying the short handguard and swapping it out. I shoot my rifle with the 338 LM and 6.5X47 with 26" barrels and the short handguard and it works great. I'm not mounting any optics or electronics in front of the scope so no need for a long handguard. I can't tell any difference in stability on the bipod/monopod and the likelyhood of my ever putting the long handguard back on is pretty much nil. With the shorty I can use my 17" 338 BR and the 12.7X48 18" barrels with suppressors without adding an extension just to get them past the handguard. I do use a suppressor on all the barrels.....actually I use my 338LM suppressor on the BR and the 6.5 as well. Works great with all of the above. I'm sure there is an application for the long handguard but not for me.
Frank
The Chassis is the firearm, the difference in zero depends on the barrel, but its not much, all mine are within a mil.
Guys - I have the A1 with the new bolt design. I find the extraction to be a bit wimpy. If I run the bolt quickly, I catch the exiting brass. Does anyone else have this problem and is it:
1. Due to my inexperience ?
2. Not an issue anyone else has in competition / tactical environment ?
3. A problem with my bolt?
4. A fix with some tweak ?
1. Due to my inexperience ?
2. Not an issue anyone else has in competition / tactical environment ?
3. A problem with my bolt?
4. A fix with some tweak ?
Yes, I called, but nobody answers the phone in warranty service. When I contacted them about a deformed mag body - it look weeks for someone to get back to me. I realize everyone is busy - so figured I would ask here first - as I was likely to get faster support.
Since I couldn't reach them today, I replied to an email from Joshua Johnson - who finally got back to me on the magazine issue.
Since I couldn't reach them today, I replied to an email from Joshua Johnson - who finally got back to me on the magazine issue.
Just called in and got them - guess I should retry before complaining
Likely its a issue with my snap caps, however will take it to the range this weekend and try some more. When I used fired brass seems to work better.
Likely its a issue with my snap caps, however will take it to the range this weekend and try some more. When I used fired brass seems to work better.
Just called in and got them - guess I should retry before complaining
No, DTA should learn to answer email and voice messages. Customers shouldn't have to call 3-4 times a day for a few days until someone answers the phone. That's ridiculous...
I went through the same hassle a while back. I love the rifle, but I hate when I have to call in for anything.
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I just left the warranty office, special trip just to look into this. There are no voice mails or emails that are unanswered. We addressed the slow replies weeks ago and both Josh and Chris are doing a good job keeping in contact with customers. If someone refuses to leave a message, that's on them. Calling 3 or 4 times is unnecessary. Call once. Leave a message and one of them WILL call you back. If you don't answer your phone, you will get a message to email them at a specific address to give them all the information with pictures if possible. Simple as that.
More changes are planned in the future. We are streamlining the system as best we can.
Russ @ DTM.
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Russ,
Thanks for the news about the recent improvements DTA has made to their customer service. It should make a lot of customers happy.
Thanks for the news about the recent improvements DTA has made to their customer service. It should make a lot of customers happy.
Has any one tried these on their SRS? If so what is your thoughts on them?
Mini Stock Pad [WBMSP] - $39.99 : WieBad.com, Making Tactical, Practical
Mini Stock Pad [WBMSP] - $39.99 : WieBad.com, Making Tactical, Practical
[MENTION=35086]bas402[/MENTION] - that looks nice - I would like to hear feedback on one as well...
I'll order one up and try it on my non a1 stock and report back.
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Thanks Russ, I was going to do the same thing just to see what it was like. Looks like the "rock solid" option is the one I will try.
Sully
Hey Guy's,
I am new to Rifle shooting and just received My SRS A1 Covert in .308 16" barrel. I can not seem to figure out how the Tab sling that DTA sell mounts to the Covert rail. I have seen the videos of the tab being mounted on the longer railed SRS front rail but can not seem to figure out where it mounts on the short railed Covert. If anyone has pics of how theirs is mounted it would be great to see. Thanks for any help.
Wayne
I am new to Rifle shooting and just received My SRS A1 Covert in .308 16" barrel. I can not seem to figure out how the Tab sling that DTA sell mounts to the Covert rail. I have seen the videos of the tab being mounted on the longer railed SRS front rail but can not seem to figure out where it mounts on the short railed Covert. If anyone has pics of how theirs is mounted it would be great to see. Thanks for any help.
Wayne
The mount is under the side rails. You have to take one of the rails off and move it back...at least that's what it looks on mine. Haven't tried it yet though.
Congrats! I still got another 2 more months until said quoted time that I would get mine. It's very hard to explain to your friends how good of a gun you own when you don't really own it physically....
Anyways, anyone know if this sling qd mount will work with the SRS A1?
Amazon.com: Midwest Industries Quick Detach Sling Swivel Heavy Duty Flush Push Button: Sports & Outdoors
I have a generic push button flush cup QD mount - and it works just fine, both on the rear flush cups and on the machined wholes in the hand guard. Mine were also under the shorty rails - likely on the Covert as well - but mine is just a normal SRS A1.
Twret,
The front sling point is at the end of the handguard so you will have to remove or relocate one of the picitanny rails rearward.
The front sling point is at the end of the handguard so you will have to remove or relocate one of the picitanny rails rearward.
Hey guys since most of you are owners I was wondering what would be a fair price or a good deal for a .308 srs covert a1 with monopod and fde skins and rail. Just curious as I found one but think the price is too high especially once sales tax is factored in
I emailed customer support about 2 months ago over a part I broke. I got a response later that day with instructions on where to send the broken part. A replacement part showed up 4-5 days later.
No muss no fuss.
I run the SP-5602 with my SN3 5-25. Mine is a 1.46" height and it clears fine. I have a 35mm tube though...
US optics 5-25 does not work at all is SP4802 as the adjustment housing on scope is to long.
But the SP4803b works well
If it will clear the rail do I not know.
What is the objective outside diameter?
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Premier 5-25x56 on route. Currently have DTA's 20 MOA base and was wondering if there any issues with this combo? Thanks!
I have this setup and it runs great on the DTA. You can set zero with no problem and run up the full upward travel in your Premier.
Who is it that makes the thread converter from 3/4 to 5/8 so I can use my Thunderbeast 30 cal can on the DTA? Was that Delta Precision?
We sell a lot of DTA's with Premier's mounted on them. You can use a 40MOA mount and still easily maintain a 100yd zero, so a 20MOA will work just fine. You'll need the 40 to get maximum travel out of your turret though.
They're pretty much the same rifle and use the same barrels. The only difference is that the shorter handguard on the Covert allows you to use barrels shorter than 22" but nothing stops you from running long barrels with that same short handguard, so in many respects the Covert is more versatile. I have both handguards and they can be swapped out, but it's not something you can do in the field. At this point I have 5 conversions, so I just keep the shorter handguard on most of the time. The longer handguard's main advantages are a bit of extra stability for mounting the bipod out further and more real estate for accessories and clip-on night vision (pretty much impossible on the Covert).
Does anybody know when a left hand covert A1 will be out ? I was told a year last year. I am looking at a used right hand but not sure it would be very good being for a left hand . + the 338 lapua barrel is only 18''. I am 65 so don't how many more years i have left so i hate to wait to long. Thanks for input. Joe
With the new A1s selling so well and with long backorder list, I doubt you'll see a left handed version for at least 2 years. I know that Nick and his crew are eager to do these, but business is business and you need to take care of your present customers first, who have already paid for their rifles in full with some waiting almost a year for the present versions according to posts on this thread! I'm 65 also, but luckily right handed! I suspect to wait more than a year for the paperwork on the 3 TBAC suppressors I just ordered to get finalized! It's become more of a waiting game with the recent jump in popularity of the sport growing in the last 3-4 years due to many factors like Obama and yes the "Hide". Good Luck and maybe I"ll be wrong.
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Picked up a couple new toys today.....
Dta srs covert a1 in fde/fde .308 16" barrel
Larue tactical stealth 16" with all the larue magpul and lmt goodies. Topped with a mark 6 in adm 20moa mount. Next step is some glass for the dta. I'm thinking premier 5-25. Convince me otherwise
Dta srs covert a1 in fde/fde .308 16" barrel
Larue tactical stealth 16" with all the larue magpul and lmt goodies. Topped with a mark 6 in adm 20moa mount. Next step is some glass for the dta. I'm thinking premier 5-25. Convince me otherwise
Attachments
I think the premier is a good choice - unless you want it to match - then S&B for the color match
I just got my A1 today. It is awesome and I can't wait to shoot it. I have noticed a few nit-picky things that I wanted to ask your oppinions on:
1) Do your mags drop free? The manual says they should, but mine does not.
2) Does your safety rattle? Mine is very easy to move (could probably be a little harder and be fine), but it rattles if I shake the gun.
There are a few other very minor things I want to ask about, but those are my main 2 concerns.
1) Do your mags drop free? The manual says they should, but mine does not.
2) Does your safety rattle? Mine is very easy to move (could probably be a little harder and be fine), but it rattles if I shake the gun.
There are a few other very minor things I want to ask about, but those are my main 2 concerns.
Mags don't drop free. I don't really see that being an issue as changing mags with a bullpup is an awkward movement to begin with. My safety does not rattle but is not fit as well as the rest of the gun. That said, it functions fine and does stay firmly in position.
The fix is to loosen the "skin" bolts around the mag well - both sides. Then use purple Loctite on them to keep them from backing out. Essentially, loosen until the mags drop free - then Loctite. I suspect that as these move through production, they get tightened a bit too much as they are rushing to get them out the door.
I was the one previously who reported the issue, and this suggestion from DTA fixed it for me. Simple - quick and easy !
Also, never shook the rifle to see if the safety rattles - but mine is also very easy to move - not like the M14 safety. However it doesn't really seem to be much of an issue. Its in a very easy place to work with the trigger finger, and I haven't really had a problem with it doing something it shouldn't.
I was the one previously who reported the issue, and this suggestion from DTA fixed it for me. Simple - quick and easy !
Also, never shook the rifle to see if the safety rattles - but mine is also very easy to move - not like the M14 safety
. However it doesn't really seem to be much of an issue. Its in a very easy place to work with the trigger finger, and I haven't really had a problem with it doing something it shouldn't.
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We sell a lot of DTA's with Premier's mounted on them. You can use a 40MOA mount and still easily maintain a 100yd zero, so a 20MOA will work just fine. You'll need the 40 to get maximum travel out of your turret though.
I think I should be good with the 20 MOA base as my .300 Win Mag SRS is primarily for hunting so I shouldn't require max turret travel.
Speaking of hunting I went to get a couple of different boxes of factory hunting ammo to try and the only thing I could buy locally was Hornady SuperFormance 180gr Interbond for $69. This is BS I have to get back to civilization! Anyway looks like I will have to order some online...any recommendations for several types of big game factory hunting ammo to test? I plan to get into reloading but that will have to wait until I evac out of here.Thanks!
