Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#4,751
Hey herefish, thanks i will do that.

One more question... My thread protector came just installed finger-tight. Do i need to tighten this up more than that?

I also got a muzzle brake in the box (Suppressor QD style) with some shims. The shims are obviously for clocking, but does this also go on finger-tight? It looks like i could get a wrench on that one.
 
#4,752
The older brake could go on finger tight, then secured with the allen screw but the QD brake needs a bit more effort. I mounted mine in a vice with the armorer's kit then used the shims to get the timing really close and finalized it with a good amount of torque and a dab of loctite.
 
#4,753
Where can I get shorter screws for the adjustable buttpad? The length of pull is a little too long with 2 spacers but with any less the screws contact the monopod preventing the attachment of the buttpad. I could screw them in halfway leaving the screw heads sticking out but that might leave a mark. lol
 
#4,757
What slings are you guys running on your dta? I saw it has a qd cup on the rear of the stock but I didn't see any attachment points up front. I'm a fan of the magpul ms3 for ar's but was thinking of a 2 point for the dta. Thoughts?


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#4,761
Same here, VCAS for me. I've done quite of bit of shooting sling supported off hand and being able to tighten it up on the fly makes it quick and easy to get the right amount of tension.
 
#4,762
Can anyone comment as to why the A1 comes with the same plastic butt plate like the original? it was obviously a problem (mine was broken when I bought the rifle) and I know of many others that had the same problem. So they now offer an "upgrade" for an aluminum piece which I bought and is infinitely better. So fast forward to the A1, why didn't they make the aluminum piece OE? it is the same plastic piece as the original, and I know of at least one that has broken already, before the owner could even get a barrel and shoot it.
 
#4,766
I'm wanting to get a 16" barrel threaded down to 5/8-24 but don't want to void my DTA warranty. Does anyone know who DTA recommends to have thread the barrels? I plan to call them Monday but just wondered if anyone knew off hand.
 
#4,767
Aflac said:
The A1s have the sling mounts under the side rails. You have to take one of the removable rails off and move it back a little bit
Click to expand...

IMG_7744.jpg


There's what you'll see under those rail sections on the front of the handguard.
 
#4,769
ney1 said:
coldbore,
We didn't use aluminum because the new resin and redesigned ribs make the new buttplate stronger than aluminum. In drop tests it succeeded where even the aluminum plates failed.
Click to expand...
i hate to contradict the science involved in the drop test. but i have yet to drop test or fire test my brand new A1 and the buttplate is already broken :(
guaranteed it will continue to break every half dozen or so removals. it is extremely flawed in one tiny but crucial spot.
im not trying to be critical of dta in a public forum. its just that im basically a pussy and if i broke something theres definitely a problem with it.
 
Last edited:
#4,772
orkan said:
Which spot?
Click to expand...
i can post a picture as soon as i have access to the rifle. its the little hook/clip at the top of the buttplate that locks into the back of the chassis right above where the bolt stop goes. the little clip attaches to the buttplate with a minuscule amount of material. now that that clip has broken off the top of my buttplate flexes back when i cycle my bolt and pinches my face when i close the bolt.
 
#4,778
generalzip said:
I know the part you are talking about. I don't see how removing the butt pad could damage it at all. I could however see an extremely forceful bolt throw to cause damage. How hard are you ripping that thing back?
Click to expand...
Also important to note, this rifle/chassis has never been fired, the maiden barrel is on its way from SAC, very little if any "ripping" has taken place.
 
#4,779
Lmao. Well then I'd say he got a lemon. I haven't seen that issue with mine. I do wish my mags dropped free though. I loosened the skin screws and it helped a little bit but I think the issue is the rough surface on the magazine from the finish and the magazine well not being broken in yet


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#4,780
i cycle my bolt like it was made from butterflys wings. but a person should be able to slam the hell out of it and not have to worry. i know that the majority of people use and abuse their guns and thats the way it should be, thats what they are designed for. this is combat gear. nevertheless. here is a pic of what broke.



3mm of plastic seems to me like a small amount. all the other tabs are very robust and accommodate the forces they encounter appropriately. this tab when moving down has potential to snag and encounter moment and shear forces its not capable of resisting with that tiny little 3mm of material.
 
#4,782
chubbles said:
i cycle my bolt like it was made from butterflys wings. but a person should be able to slam the hell out of it and not have to worry. i know that the majority of people use and abuse their guns and thats the way it should be, thats what they are designed for. this is combat gear. nevertheless. here is a pic of what broke.



3mm of plastic seems to me like a small amount. all the other tabs are very robust and accommodate the forces they encounter appropriately. this tab when moving down has potential to snag and encounter moment and shear forces its not capable of resisting with that tiny little 3mm of material.
Click to expand...

Interesting as my butt pad looks like it has different mold part lines (I'm talking materials processing so tell me if I need to elaborate. The plastic on mine feels very hard and strong. Also are you running a .308 with the bolt stop in front of the bit toad like I am? I took some pics to compare for you

ype7yru3.jpg

zegaha5a.jpg


Here's the bolt stop for the .308 conversion.
a5ara6e9.jpg


Also this is how my rifle came from dta. Is it supposed to be on unlock?
adumezet.jpg


One last question when you giggle the rifle I can hear the magazine release move around and clank a little on the right side of the gun because it doesn't stay taught. Is that normal.

a3a5y9uz.jpg



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#4,784
generalzip said:
Interesting as my butt pad looks like it has different mold part lines (I'm talking materials processing so tell me if I need to elaborate. The plastic on mine feels very hard and strong. Also are you running a .308 with the bolt stop in front of the bit toad like I am? I took some pics to compare for you

ype7yru3.jpg


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Click to expand...


ya the mold part lines on yours are definitely different below the clip. yes i am running a bolt stop. perhaps mine is flawed. im still surprised by how flimsy that clip is.
 
#4,785
coldboremiracle said:
Zip, the mag release should be tight, i believe you can handle that. The lock unlock should be locked with barrel in, and obviously unlocked for removal.
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean I can handle that? Haha it's seems as though the slight rattle is inevitable due to the hinges design on the right side of the mag release. As far as why the gun came from the factory in the unlocked position I have no clue but that kind of scares me nobody noticed that before it shipped even though I'm sure it would matter from a safety perspective as long as all the other bolts are torqued to spec. also I noticed the manual said the barrels are fluted. My 16" .308 barrel is not fluted. Is that normal? Is the fluting just on the longer 26" barrels?


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#4,786
On the barrel lock issue, you should have gotten your chassis packaged separately from the conversion kit - that's how DTA ships them as far as I know, not with the barrel installed.
 
#4,787
Dogtown said:
On the barrel lock issue, you should have gotten your chassis packaged separately from the conversion kit - that's how DTA ships them as far as I know, not with the barrel installed.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I got it from my dealer all put together. He must have done it to take pictures to sell it. Kind of make me want to grab the torque wrench and see if they are to spec... The barrels are not fluted on the 16 however, correct?


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#4,788
Oh and one more random question. This doesn't matter but does anyone know why dta decided to go metric on all the hex bolts? It's an American company which is why I was kind of confused. I guess it makes it NATO approved at least haha


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#4,789
First off, Metric always makes far more sense than Imperial - that's just reality and the sooner we all start using it (and teach your kids too) then the sooner we'll have uniform units to work off of. Base 10 beats the pants off of Imperial's arbitrary units.

Yes, if you got it from a dealer then it's the dealer who installed the conversion kit and didn't lock the barrel. I'd just call that an oversight, but kind of an important one. And yes, the short Covert barrels are not fluted and are insanely rigid - you'll be surprised how accurate they are.
 
#4,790
generalzip said:
Interesting. I got it from my dealer all put together. He must have done it to take pictures to sell it. Kind of make me want to grab the torque wrench and see if they are to spec... The barrels are not fluted on the 16 however, correct?


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Click to expand...


DTA ships many of the rifles with the barrels installed.

Barrels on the 16" .308 are not fluted. The 22" and 26" barrels are fluted.
 
#4,792
Dogtown said:
Then I stand corrected.
Click to expand...

Dogtown -

It also depends on how a dealer orders them. They may order a couple chassis and a few different conversions. My experience has been that the chassis generally ships with a conversion kit installed. This saves a bit on shipping. Though once at the dealer, the dealer may swap around the calibers or demonstrate the caliber conversion process to potential customers.
 
#4,794
You can read up a few posts there where he asked why DTA would ship his rifle with the barrel unlocked. I was under the mistaken impression that they shipped chassis and barrels separately (like they did mine and my friend's), but that is not the case. Why is it important? You'll have to ask the guy who brought it up. Me personally, I wouldn't feel too comfortable shooting it with the barrel unlocked, though I suspect it's probably safe.
 
#4,795
Dogtown said:
On the barrel lock issue, you should have gotten your chassis packaged separately from the conversion kit - that's how DTA ships them as far as I know, not with the barrel installed.
Click to expand...

I don't remember for sur, but I think if you get more than one conversion kit - one of them would be installed. That (if memory serves) was my experience.


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#4,796
What kind of mounts are you guys using? I want to have the most robust and consistent mount as possible, but I still like the idea of a qd mount so I could later put on NV or thermal. What are you guys using? Aadland mount looked solid. I'm not trying to spend 400 dollars on a mount as I don't see the value in those mounts. It simply does not cost that much to machine a piece of aluminum in my mind. I'm looking at premier scopes so it looks like 34mm is a must. I have a amd in 34mm that I like but would this be appropriate for a precision rifle?


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#4,800
Ashame aadland doesn't make a 34mm mount. I don't like the idea of using inserts at all. I want to minimize the interfaces for things to move not add them. Like it would be so easy to change the solid works file to a 34mm i don't know why they didn't do that. Beside 34mm scope are way more common


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