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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Yes. Others should be able to confirm this. 6MOA is less than 2 mils
No, but I've had the factory 18" .338LM barrel for about 10 years. I know it's apples to oranges, but they're both magnum so here's my likes and dislikes:
Likes: short, compact, and still good to 1200m, bucks wind way better than 16" .308WIN
Dislikes: needs an efficient brake, most cans aren't rated for short magnums
And the thing with the original Covert barrels from DTA is that they are really fast twist because they were originally designed for shooting subsonic ammo.
Likes: short, compact, and still good to 1200m, bucks wind way better than 16" .308WIN
Dislikes: needs an efficient brake, most cans aren't rated for short magnums
And the thing with the original Covert barrels from DTA is that they are really fast twist because they were originally designed for shooting subsonic ammo.
The barrel im looking at is an 18 inch proof carbon with a 1:9 twist. Mainly going to be for hunting.
That's the way to go if you plan to use an SRS for hunting: short, lightweight barrel (and hopefully lightweight optic).
The blast from an 18" magnum isn't fun, especially for folks around you. For example, I shoot a bunch of .338LM Improved40 and .300NM out of long 30+ inch barrels and folks at my local range don't complain. But every time I take the 18" .338LM out, someone says something about the blast.
In your case, if you're just trying to maximize energy delivered on target at relatively close ranges out of a lightweight & compact setup, then yeah, the barrel you're considering is the way to go.
The blast from an 18" magnum isn't fun, especially for folks around you. For example, I shoot a bunch of .338LM Improved40 and .300NM out of long 30+ inch barrels and folks at my local range don't complain. But every time I take the 18" .338LM out, someone says something about the blast.
In your case, if you're just trying to maximize energy delivered on target at relatively close ranges out of a lightweight & compact setup, then yeah, the barrel you're considering is the way to go.
18” 300 PRC 1/9
Haven’t shot it yet, just got it cut and took measurements to the lands but it’s definitely too fuckin late to go back to 24” now. Plenty of people getting 2850 with 22” and RL26 so I think 200-215 gr bullets and RL26 should get me hopefully to 2700+ that’s still some business out to 800 yards. Nomad LT pretty much going to live on it.
ES Tactical does great work and it's really easy to order custom barrels from him. Wait times for me over the past couple of years have been about six months. It's also great to just send him your burned-out SRS barrels and he'll remove the extension and use it on a new barrel.
About 4 months but this was over a year ago (maybe more?) just getting around to breaking it in now.
Eric used to keep a bunch of popular blanks on hand, so turn around was much faster back in 2020. But now I think pretty much everything is made to order from K&P. For example, in the past I would get a common 1:8 6.5mm barrel long before the 1:9 36" .338LM Improved40 barrel I ordered at the same time would arrive. In that case, the extra length was a special order item. The same goes for unusual twist rates.
On a side note, he still has my .338LM Improved40 reamer so if you want a barrel cut with it, just order it and ask for that reamer in the notes. It's the only way to .338 these days, at least for me.
On a side note, he still has my .338LM Improved40 reamer so if you want a barrel cut with it, just order it and ask for that reamer in the notes. It's the only way to .338 these days, at least for me.
With todays ballistic apps you just program in the offsets. And write them on tape on side of stock just in case
Ok thank you. Once I get an ATIP load developed I will give that a go.
Would my other idea have worked with a quality mount and optic? Just curious.
Thank you again
Been looking at adding a shorter can for my Covert that still suppresses well. Leaning towards the TBAC Dominus. Any other suggestions? It’ll be dual purpose for my lighter hunting rifles as well so a 9” can isn’t in the cards.
Not a DT but yeah. A former friend built one just because its violently unpleasant so we could make night time fireballs. It's was great. Got 22" 308 velocities and a free flashbang with every trigger pull. With a gill brake it was unbelievably unpleasant, the blast slapped me in the face like an offended woman. A radial brake on it was less unpleasant but not a lot less, it just didn't feel like I'd just married Amber Turd.
It can. You need to qualify the mount by testing it. I got Larue LT111 because it's got a good reputation for repeatability and I wanted to be able to drop on a dedicated thermal now and again. So far it's been solidly returning to within 1 click of my zero when I pull it off and put it back on. You can't expect perfection there so expectation setting is important. Noting offsets is a better solution than multiple scopes. You can use it with any amount of offset.
BTW ...What make /materal of barrels were used on these Early GEN 1 SRS ? Mine is the original 22" 308 Serial # DTA1 000071
Before the shot. The bipod hasn't come off. I'm wondering if the pic rail is loose. I really don't like the plastic rails. Any alternative?
There was a group buy a while ago. I believe it was primal rights that was producing them but don't hold me to that. But I'm pretty sure they were only a limited run. I would check the pic rail but also make sure everything on the bipod is secured.
I ditched the pic rail altogether and went arca rail from SPR and converted my atlas bipods with an RRS arca clamp.
The gen 1 300wm I have is a Kieger and it’s a laser beam with 208 amax and h1000
I try not to. I wonder if it's just from using it as the rear support even with it out. I may remove it and get a plug.
Judging by the magazine, that's a .223rem/ai conversion or something based on that case.
With mildly overbore cases when I burn one up I will typically have it set back and a bit lopped off the muzzle end as well then have it rechambered. That's typically good for at least 1 shorten and chamber cycle. With severely overbore stuff I'll usually just pitch it, too much alligator skin.
Reach out if you ever come across one to pitch. I’m not itching to start the project ASAP as I have other coals in the fire but down the road I may fork over some money for something shot out.
