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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Are they hitting below the feed ramp? I think I had some doing it and just opened the lips up a little.
May not be the same issue, but I have 2 srsa1 chassis and one them would not hold the mag correctly, but I could put the mag in the other chassis and it worked fine, what I ended up finding was the geometry on the mag release button ( the one you push to drop the mag) was not even close, I ordered a new one and it fixed my problem.
Does anyone know if the SAC .223 uses the same barrel extension as DT or if its custom for there bolt head.
Imagine if you eliminated the front 2nd row of locking lugs from a DT bolt head so you just have a 3-lug head. That's what the .223 bolt looks like. Same basic lug pattern not as many lugs and it doesn't fit into any other extension that I have so there's no mistaking that you've got the wrong bolt when you try to close your .223Rem bolt on a .308Win chamber.
I saw one stippled once, but the guy was wearing a bunch of custom Glocks on his waist, so I just assumed he was a fadboy.
Man…. an SRS Covert, SAC 223 conversion, and a TBAC 338 Ultra is just a stupid fun setup.
I don’t think there’s a more fun conversion than the 223. There’s days I question why I have my 308 conversion still.
When I lived in the land of “cans without needing permission”, my 16” .308WIN barrel was kind of my all around general purpose barrel. It was great for plinking with the club guys, hunting and shooting matches.
8 years later, the only barrel I shoot less is the .510 Whisper.
The Covert barrels can be stupid fun because it makes the rifle so portable and handy and in a lot of cases you don’t need a 26” barrel. Now that I have an M2 for the long stuff, I’m shooting the Covert with almost exclusively 18-20” barrels, from 6.5x47 to .338LM (the Beast). In fact the most accurate barrel I’ve ever had for any SRS is still just a 20” 6.5x47 with a beefy 1” contour. It’s so crazy rigid that I can hardly identify sinusoidal node patterns during load dev with it.
I had what sounds like a similar problem. Go check out page 288 on this thread. I have some posts about "fixing" the mag. From March 2 and 3 of 2022.
The only thing that looks better than a Desert Tech is a custom painted one......
Old photo but I stippled the inner panels of the grip on both of mine. I’d just done a Bennelli and thought why not …..
Hey Guys, my father and i are wanting to cut and chamber a few barrels for our SRS A1 guns.
Where is our best options for blanks?
Does any one have or know where to find a blueprint for the A2 tenon end, including fluting?
Thanks!
Where is our best options for blanks?
Does any one have or know where to find a blueprint for the A2 tenon end, including fluting?
Thanks!
DT will sell you the blueprints
Any barrel from any maker with the correct size shank will do. Once I even had a straight 1.25” Kreiger from shank to muzzle
Any barrel from any maker with the correct size shank will do. Once I even had a straight 1.25” Kreiger from shank to muzzle
Anybody know how to make the bolt on a SRS A1 harder to lift? Mine gets bumped by my forearm from time to time and I get the dreaded click at the moment of truth. Measured mine with a trigger gauge and it only takes just under 2 lbs of force upward and 1/4 inch of movement to take the bolt out of battery.
What is the scenario here, are you at the range or out in the field hunting?
I'm assuming your situation is carrying it with a round chambered whilst on "safe", bumping the bolt somewhere along the way and going straight to the handgrip without checking once a target presents itself.
I think your best option would be to train into muscle memory a bump of the bolt on your way to the handgrip.
If you are set on a mechanical solution, you could re profile the cocking ramp to achieve a heavier bolt lift. This is a pretty drastic solution for a problem that doesn't really exist though. (Edit: as below, this won't alter bolt lift on a cocked striker).
The DTA platform isn't exactly a short range scrub gun though, so why do you feel the need to keep a round chambered (to the point your skillset is failing you anyway) and not just cycle it when you are ready to take the shot?
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Changing the cocking ramp profile wouldn’t do anything for the bolt lift when the striker is cocked.
I’ve been thinking about this. The rear of the bolt body may be thick enough to drill a pocket for a spring and detent ball, then you’d have to create a pocket inside the bolt sleeve in the correct location. I haven’t pulled a bolt out to look at it.
Making sure the bolt is down is just one of my pre shot checks with bolt guns. The grip I use on my q fix rests my thumb across the safety and bolt handle.
I’ve been thinking about this. The rear of the bolt body may be thick enough to drill a pocket for a spring and detent ball, then you’d have to create a pocket inside the bolt sleeve in the correct location. I haven’t pulled a bolt out to look at it.
Making sure the bolt is down is just one of my pre shot checks with bolt guns. The grip I use on my q fix rests my thumb across the safety and bolt handle.
I know how to run a rifle. Im not out bumbling around in the brush. The situation is coyote hunting. I'm sitting with the gun on a tall Harris bipod pointed in one direction. Then a coyote appears in another direction. I then need to lift the gun slightly and pivot it over toward the approaching coyote. My right hand is on the pistol grip and my right forearm can bump the bolt handle up slightly as I make this transfer. Then, no bang. This whole sequence can happen in seconds. I find it unacceptable to have to check my bolt handle every time I reach for my safety.
I have a 24" 22 creed barrel on my SRS and it would be the ultimate coyote rifle if not for this problem. Other coyote hunters have had this same problem BTW.
I have a 24" 22 creed barrel on my SRS and it would be the ultimate coyote rifle if not for this problem. Other coyote hunters have had this same problem BTW.
have you tried changing your approach to pivoting the rifle? I grab mine by the forend with my left hand rather than only using the pistol grip and I’ve never had that issue. The sad reality is, that’s the nature of the bullpup bolt gun. If you add anything to keep the bolt more rigid in the locked position, that may cost you a follow up shot on a double and you’d still have issues with the platform.
You’re aware of the issue, you may just need to make a quick push down on the bolt knob to confirm it’s position before taking the shot if you move your rifle. It’s a split second movement that shouldn’t cost you any dogs. If you still have issues, it’s time to move to a different platform.
Interesting. This is the first I think I’ve heard of anyone having this issue.
I've actually cut the bolt handle about 1 inch shorter to help mitigate this problem. But it still happened the other day. Almost cost me a dog. It just seems that my bolt handle lifts really easy and if I could tighten that up somehow...
Oddly enough the rest of this entire forum complains about heavy bolt lift on all rifles regardless of brand or configuration.
As with many things in this hobby it may come down to training around this issue. Ask how many DT shooters have had ejected brass kick back into the action off the knuckle of your bugger finger, no fix for this other than training.
As with many things in this hobby it may come down to training around this issue. Ask how many DT shooters have had ejected brass kick back into the action off the knuckle of your bugger finger, no fix for this other than training.
Actually, you can change how the brass hits your hand by changing the length of the bolt handle or by changing the geometry of how you grab the bolt by changing the bolt knob. Or do both. I prefer to change how things work rather than make a mental checklist of crap I need to do to overcome poor design.
I have had the same problem happen when calling coyotes with mine, i do the check of making sure the bolt is down all the way, but when you look up and suddenly you have 3 coyotes running in at 100 yards and have to reposition to get on them seconds count and its hard to remember to make sure the bolt didnt raise a 1/4 inch in all the chaos only to hear a click.
This is gonna come off douchey and I don’t know how to word it without making it sound douchey so I apologize ahead of time.
But I thought it was normal to build the muscle memory on these kinds of issues so they are no longer even thought about, just automatic. I guess for me, I’d be practicing non stop until it became muscle memory and if I couldn’t achieve that, I’d change to a different platform.
But I thought it was normal to build the muscle memory on these kinds of issues so they are no longer even thought about, just automatic. I guess for me, I’d be practicing non stop until it became muscle memory and if I couldn’t achieve that, I’d change to a different platform.
Why are you looking down? You should be able to keep your eyes up and push down on the bolt
Coyote calling aint PRS or a square range where you have plenty of time to figure out how to engage targets before doing it, or in many cases just watched someone else do it.
When calling, you're sometimes scanning with your binos, sometimes looking down at your e-caller remote, sometimes looking over your shoulder. All that + the terrain can allow coyotes to suddenly be in your lap or downwind, and you have to reposition and shoot in a hurry.
BTW, I'm not necessarily disagreeing that building muscle memory may be the only solution for the DTA platform, but it would be great to hear some other ideas from the group.
When calling, you're sometimes scanning with your binos, sometimes looking down at your e-caller remote, sometimes looking over your shoulder. All that + the terrain can allow coyotes to suddenly be in your lap or downwind, and you have to reposition and shoot in a hurry.
BTW, I'm not necessarily disagreeing that building muscle memory may be the only solution for the DTA platform, but it would be great to hear some other ideas from the group.
I just tried to recreate this (unloaded). I used my wrist to move the bolt handle up over an inch (as high as it will let me), then I pull the trigger and the bolt handle slams down into position. I assume the firing pin would have done its normal thing and “gun go bang”, but I'm not in a position to test and confirm this with live ammo. Does your bolt do this? This is the newer A2 bolt, just for reference.
Just another case of you're the problem not the rifle. Why have mechanical design improvements at all? Every rifle should have an 8 lb trigger and if you can't shoot well with it then you just suck and need more training.
I think I might mix up some devcon and put a dab on the bolt handle and sand it down. Till there is a little resistance and see if it cuts down on the bolt lifting so much, might have to reapply after enough bolt cycles but if it works it works.
Just recreated it with a new primer in a spent case. I can see the issue now - click but no bang as I assume the spring is using its energy to close the bolt instead of pushing the firing pin where it needs to go.
I've encountered this bolt bump problem a number of times and it's only happened when I did something that would get me a DQ in a match. Since I can't have 2 muscle memories that contradict each other I just altered how I do wet work. Instead of having the bolt closed before I'm on a target, I just do like we do in PRS and leave it open until I have a target in the scope. Yes, it adds a second or so and I have had critters bugger off and deny me my shot but it's only 1 sequence of movements to build into unconscious habit. If we could replace the grip with something with a more vertical profile then that would move the forearm downward and help in some small way to alleviate the issue. Perhaps DT will listen to reason and make a skin with a really vertical grip.
I coated this SRS the other week - came out damn nice.
What I said is correct. You are talking two different things. Sounds like you prefer a safety that locks the bolt. Get one of those to hunt with and be happy.
Maybe you can run a rubber band around the mag and across the bolt handle. Could possibly hold the bolt down and still let you cycle the action if need be. Just a quick thought.
I've done this before. It actually works. Just looks stupid and the rubber bands don't last long.
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i have 2 chassis with their own bolts and they both do the same thing coyotekev is talking about
What soft case do you guys recomend for the SRS? I currently have an 18” barrel with a 9” can on it. I saw the soft case that DTA has but it looks too short to leave my can on. I have no interest in unscrewing my can every time it goes in the bag. I think a 42” or 46” would work.
