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One of my favourite chassis, Whiskey-3 gen6 with 308win CTR.
22creed , Impact,20” Proof CF , manners Night Stalker
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The newly revamped Solus… Previously was a factory Aero 20” M24 .308 Win barreled action, now it’s a 20” M24 @CarbonSix CF 1:8 twist 7mm SAW…
Still waiting on dies and brass and stuff for the 7 SAW, so won’t be able to shoot it for a few weeks, but hopefully it will all show up soon.
Before…
After…
Both the Proof barreled.25 Creed, and CarbonSix 7mm SAW…
Still waiting on dies and brass and stuff for the 7 SAW, so won’t be able to shoot it for a few weeks, but hopefully it will all show up soon.
Before…
After…
Both the Proof barreled.25 Creed, and CarbonSix 7mm SAW…
Couple groups from yesterday with the Solus/Proof .25 Creed…
First group after 3-shot sight-in after getting my Razor G3 back from Vortex. 7-shots @ 0.650 MOA.
2nd & last group of the day… 5-shots @ .354 MOA…
First group after 3-shot sight-in after getting my Razor G3 back from Vortex. 7-shots @ 0.650 MOA.
2nd & last group of the day… 5-shots @ .354 MOA…
How long from order to delivery?
I'm sitting on a cert that I emailed Gene about in May but then forgot to call in the specs
That’s a long drawn out story but short version, I originally ordered a 7” twist 20” .25 Creed barrel, but McGowan never made a batch of 7” twist .257 blanks…So I changed the order a few weeks back to something they did actually have on hand… Took 10 months from order date, but only a few weeks rush once we changed the order to something they actually had in house already.
You mean the sale from 2 weekends ago? They still haven't even shipped mine, or my Solus pistol from 2 months ago...
Finnish & Norwegian team work.
Tikka T3 SS Varmint on a KKC Hunter CTR laminated stock.
That is quite nice stock, if i would not be a chassis type of guy, this would be the stock i would get.
Tikka T3 SS Varmint on a KKC Hunter CTR laminated stock.
That is quite nice stock, if i would not be a chassis type of guy, this would be the stock i would get.
I'm always one shopping cart checkout away from a manners mcs-prs or foundation centurion but the chassis life is just so darn flexible
Best Tikka factory rifle, IMO, if you think the accuracy first.
Topped with Arken EP5 with Audere mount.
Build this to my customer.
I have now webshop, only license free stuff, like optics, mounts, stocks, chassis ets.
www.passionforrifles.fi
Topped with Arken EP5 with Audere mount.
Build this to my customer.
I have now webshop, only license free stuff, like optics, mounts, stocks, chassis ets.
www.passionforrifles.fi
First glance I thought why do you have a white Canon L lense in that setup? It is always better to insert as full image and not as thumbnail.
Solus Obsidian, Triggertech Special, 24” Proof 6.5 Creed, Nomad 30, Christensen Arms MPR Chassis. Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30. Bolt lift feels pretty light for a 60 degree.
So originally my 6ARC build was mostly "funded" by cannibalizing my rimfire setup's chassis, glass and other accessories. But since 6ARC has been such a surprising performer for me (~2850fps with a moderate load out of a 20" barrel averaging .5-.7moa groups) ... I have some parts on order to put together a dedicated build which should come out pretty sweet, but more on that later.
To that end, and since I wanted to go shoot some rimfire stuff, the W3 Vudoo V22 lives yet again
Note: the latest gen Vision foreend with the tunable magwell lets you tune for the Vudoo polymer mags very nicely. I was able to take all the velcro off of mine and its feeding like a champ regardless of pressure on the mag in any direction.
To that end, and since I wanted to go shoot some rimfire stuff, the W3 Vudoo V22 lives yet again
Note: the latest gen Vision foreend with the tunable magwell lets you tune for the Vudoo polymer mags very nicely. I was able to take all the velcro off of mine and its feeding like a champ regardless of pressure on the mag in any direction.
Only thing that needed work was the bolt release area and opening the ejection port area
Finished the Zermatt Origin 6ARC build with a dedicated Manners PRS-TCS stock. Sporting a Kahles 328i DLR in a Spuhr 6002, Trijicon RMR, 20" 1:7.5 6ARC Benchmark barrel, TriggerTech Diamond trigger, MDT sendit level, Atlas CAL bipod and MDT 12 round 6ARC magazine. I might swap out the Spuhr for something that sits the glass a little lower, but I'm a big tall dude and everything feels pretty comfortable as it sits so will see how it feels when running the rifle first.
My 700 police 300 wm came back from Badger for the m5 dbm and I put a surefire muzzle brake on it. I need to get a black socom 300sps as the fde one is going on my 6.5 creed when it arrives.
My Remington 700 SS 5R in 223 is finally ready. Cerakote, badger bottom metal, muzzle threaded, McMillan A5, diamond triggertech 2 stage.
excuse the mess (this is the play area for all the kids, myself included.)
only thing I'd change is I'd have went aluminum for weight savings, but brass looked cooler in pictures.
PVA 6 Creedmoor barrel, proof comp contour I painted with black(ish) grill heat resistant paint.
ARC CDG, fixed bolt handle, 30moa rail, hourglass black knob, changed the original with the 70N spring for light bolt lift, it's excellent and hilariously easy (1min job in the field, no tools)
AIAW mags
TT diamond flat set on 14 ounces.
arc 1.26" 34mm mount with level and old faithful tt525p-gen3XR.
very fun long range/prs gun.
Finally doing a custom. Zermatt TL3, Proof 26” 6br in my old mccree. New chassis is on order and maybe get here by Christmas.
To get a style like that should you have a black or fde as the base before cerakote the other color(s)?
My custom Altus 6.5 creedmoor arrived today. I'm still waiting on the custom foam for my pelican case.
Zermatt tl3
Bartlein 24" m24 barrel Barrett bronze cerakote
Manners t4a in high plains cammo
Atlas bipod
Area 419 mount
Nightforce Atacr 7-35 fde
Surefire socom 300 sps fde
Vortex impact 4000
I'll try to get better pics Monday.
Zermatt tl3
Bartlein 24" m24 barrel Barrett bronze cerakote
Manners t4a in high plains cammo
Atlas bipod
Area 419 mount
Nightforce Atacr 7-35 fde
Surefire socom 300 sps fde
Vortex impact 4000
I'll try to get better pics Monday.
I think this rifle is super. Please tell me what action and barrel and stock.
I hope mine shoots that well. Thats outstanding.
Ultimatum Deadline² w/ IBI 24" 6.5CM .89" Carbon barrel and Brake
McMillan A-6 in Marsh Camo w/ PGW UNS rail
Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50 in an Area 419 One-Piece Mount
12" Area 419 Arca rail
MDT Precision Bottom Metal
Here's the real question though: Leave as is, or cerakote the barreled action/bottom metal? And if cerakote... what colour? Any of you cerakote pro's got any ideas? @Hennig ?
McMillan A-6 in Marsh Camo w/ PGW UNS rail
Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50 in an Area 419 One-Piece Mount
12" Area 419 Arca rail
MDT Precision Bottom Metal
Here's the real question though: Leave as is, or cerakote the barreled action/bottom metal? And if cerakote... what colour? Any of you cerakote pro's got any ideas? @Hennig ?
I mean just blacking out the top and tail of that CF barrel would be an easy way to tidy up the look.
Hard to go wrong though with just black - you’re always gonna have a black scope and bipod, and it gives it those classic 2005 snipershide build looks.
Having said that …. If it were me, I’d probably look at the barreled action in that chocolate brown from the stock, maybe even for the mount too, with some Highland green details (shroud, bolt release etc).
Sometimes I think it just makes it look more like a “build” rather than a collection of parts - but either way it’s a sick rifle mate.
Hard to go wrong though with just black - you’re always gonna have a black scope and bipod, and it gives it those classic 2005 snipershide build looks.
Having said that …. If it were me, I’d probably look at the barreled action in that chocolate brown from the stock, maybe even for the mount too, with some Highland green details (shroud, bolt release etc).
Sometimes I think it just makes it look more like a “build” rather than a collection of parts - but either way it’s a sick rifle mate.
Absolutely cerakote. Do the brownish looking color from the stock camo.
Is that an old LIne6 4x12 halfstack in the background?View attachment 8507748finally figured out how to do a full image.
excuse the mess (this is the play area for all the kids, myself included.)
only thing I'd change is I'd have went aluminum for weight savings, but brass looked cooler in pictures.
PVA 6 Creedmoor barrel, proof comp contour I painted with black(ish) grill heat resistant paint.
ARC CDG, fixed bolt handle, 30moa rail, hourglass black knob, changed the original with the 70N spring for light bolt lift, it's excellent and hilariously easy (1min job in the field, no tools)
AIAW mags
TT diamond flat set on 14 ounces.
arc 1.26" 34mm mount with level and old faithful tt525p-gen3XR.
very fun long range/prs gun.
Nice! Same... I collect "vintage" tube amps (90's music equipment is now considered that... Damn I feel old...
)...Typically Mesa Rectifiers, Marshalls, but have a nice first year production Blackstar Series 1 100w head and matching cab, too. Some I've had since new, some are recently additions now that I'm no longer a Poor. Hang onto that old Gibby, those things are going up ridiculously in value. I've been wanting a 69 LP for a long time, but the prices are too high now. No way in hell I'd pay $20+K for a guitar. Amps is already an expensive enough hobby, because most people selling them know there's something wrong with them, and then rip you off, because they're too cheap to send it to Mesa to get it fixed, so they just dump it off on someone else for current market value.
I like to get them for a good enough price to comp the cost of repairs, buy it, send it in & get Mike B. to fix it, then you have an amp worth what you have invested in it, and better than when you first got it. Hell, I just fixed a pretty rare one myself this week. I've always soldered, but never soldered a PC board before, but I fixed it, and it works perfectly now. All it needed was 2x $0.20 each high-end metal oxide 1K 2W resistors soldered in to replace the 2 burnt-out ones. 15 minute job saved about $500 on the amp value alone + whatever repairs would cost (guessing another $250 or so). LOL
