So the primary contact points are the back of the receiver and that ledge that you see on the stock.
Now someone who does this all the time could probably do a pretty good job putting some bedding compound in those key contact areas.
However they’re going to need to take the receiver completely apart, and they might even need to take the barrel out of the action... The instructions from GRS do indicate that this inlet is the only one they don’t tell you to bed.
Truth be told I think bedding a rifle like this is going to be a waste of time. A machined inlet with pillars will be sufficient. We'll paint a layer of thin resin on the exposed material, let it sit overnight, and run the program again to clean it up. The porosity of the material will soak it up and leave a hard "crust" for the metal parts to contact.
Bedding a wood stock that is "hyper-responsive" to ambient weather is kind of a fallacy. A paper thin layer of hard resin, no matter what its made of, is not going to "hold" a stock in place should it decide to grow or shrink from a radical change in humidity. It just won't do that.
On the Anschutz rifles I used to build for the ISSF crowd it was std practice to machine a healthy bathtub around/below the receiver register and quite literally slather on what became a block of pure resin. The idea was to do exactly what your describing. I would add so much atomized aluminum filler that the bedding material behaved more like week old mashed potatoes. Very stiff, very little resin present. It worked, but one has to keep in mind that 22's in that community are very fussy when your in pursuit of a
50 shot group that does not break the circumference of a 10mm circle (50meters). It takes a 12mm gun to get on the podium. A 10mm will get you a silver or gold. 9mm does happen, but its extremely,
extremely rare. I'd heard of it once on a Carl Kenyon built rig fitted with a Pat McMillan barrel using Russian Olymp ammo. I got lucky once with a gun that put down a 9.6mm string using Tennex.
The real "trick" here is to get wood that has the appropriate amount of resident moisture to begin with. Around 5-8 percent seems to be the magic number. With a laminate its probably even less as the strips are likely dried long before they are squashed together and glued in the layup. It's typically why laminates are heavier than the parent material. Glue is replacing the sap.
The "surfed" GRS pieces we've done in the past have all been holding together nicely. I have done a few now that reside in some damp places: the Pacific Northwest and the Indonesian Islands. So far so good.
C.