Rimfire Rifle Photos Thread

My 457 MTR with 24X Weaver, its bedded, barrel shimmed, headspaced at .043" ,trigger at 9 oz. I havent got to try it after I bedded it, so far best average at 50 yards is .400" for 7-5 shot groups, hoping the bedding job will improve it some.
Would love to hear a follow up on how bedding worked out for you. Bedding is one of those things that many stock makers are eliminating for most shooters with the imbedded alum. chassis or bedded blocks in the stock. It's amazing what a good bedding job can do though for a rifle!
 
Would love to hear a follow up on how bedding worked out for you. Bedding is one of those things that many stock makers are eliminating for most shooters with the imbedded alum. chassis or bedded blocks in the stock. It's amazing what a good bedding job can do though for a rifle!

Here you go .........I have actually got a little better accuracy out of it since I fired these.
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Would love to hear a follow up on how bedding worked out for you. Bedding is one of those things that many stock makers are eliminating for most shooters with the imbedded alum. chassis or bedded blocks in the stock. It's amazing what a good bedding job can do though for a rifle!

I am sure the aluminum chassis or bedding blocks help, but I dont think they are quite as good as a proper bedding job, I see no way they could get a perfect fit due to variations in the manufacturing process of both the rifle and the stock. Bedding done correctly is as close to a perfect fit as one can get.
 
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One more, a Ruger Precision Rimfire which wasn't exactly precision when it came out of it's box. It now wears a home made aluminum bag rider in back and rest shoe in front, aluminum bolt knob I made, and a Timney trigger. It's sitting on my home built front rest. It also has a cheap aluminum muzzle brake I added just see what effect it would have on group size. It surprised me by reducing group size a little instead of making them worse as I expected it to do. Now I feel it deserves the pecision name. Not a vudoo of course but still not too slouchy in the accuracy department.

The old wooden benches are gone from from my range and are now concrete. The new ones are poorly designed IMO. I wish we still had the old ones.
 
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One more time. This is was a junk Marlin tube magazine 22 I ran across and decided to rescue. It had six bulges in it's long, skinny barrel and about six inches of the rifling was destroyed on the muzzle end. My original plan was to reline the barrel and refinish it's poor ol' stock and make it a truck gun. The lifter mechanism didn't work correctly anymore and my repair efforts failed so I decided to have some fun with the old thing. I relined the barrel, removed the tube magazine turing it into a single shot and then made a new stock. The bolt handle wouldn't clear a scope and had been welded back on. When I began to heat it to bend it the handle fell off! So I made a new handle, welded it in place and polished it up. Turned an aluminum knob for the bolt handle and whittled out an aluminum buttplate and trigger guard. Then I went a little crazy with the airbrush on the stock. It shot fairly well but I experimented with different muzzle devices I made and the brass blob you see on it made quite a difference.
 
UK shooting is limited in what we can have....but with the right paperwork .22rf semi-autos are ok (y)
Got a couple....
All currently for sale (apart from the Tippmann) so I can get a RPRf - prices in the UK are eye-watering :cry:View attachment 7369977View attachment 7369978View attachment 7369979View attachment 7369985

While in the local farm and ranch store I went by the gun counter. The selection there is picked pretty clean due to our current panic but I spotted a RPRR there for $379.00.
 
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While in the local farm and ranch store I went by the gun counter. The selection there is picked pretty clean due to our current panic but I spotted a RPRR there for $379.00.
Cheapest I can find in the UK, £620 = $780.....
Just so you don't think it's a 'Ruger thing', all US firearms and accessories from all manufacturers has the same mark-up when imported into the UK.
 
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So you now have a Vudoo costing about $8000?

Does it shoot better than a factory $2800 rifle with a $1000 Vudoo PST Gen II?

I think there are a lot of guys that build their .22 trainer to resemble their centerfire rifles, this is not a cheap sport!
I have a Vudoo in an XLR Carbon chassis with a PST Gen1 that seems to shoot pretty well if you look at the 6x5's
 
So you now have a Vudoo costing about $8000?

Does it shoot better than a factory $2800 rifle with a $1000 Vudoo PST Gen II?
What do you mean factory rifle? As far as glass goes, does the ZCO make me shoot better or spot misses better? Probably not at 200yds and in. But it has a metric shit ton of adjustment and alpha tier glass.

I built my vudoo to match my 6BR but tbh I have way more tied up in my 22. Granted my centerfire has a 27” heavy varmint barrel on it and my vudoo has a 18” proof so the weight and balance is quite different. But getting behind them is identical. Also I need to buy all the stuff I want now before I have kids 😂
 
I think there are a lot of guys that build their .22 trainer to resemble their centerfire rifles, this is not a cheap sport!
I have a Vudoo in an XLR Carbon chassis with a PST Gen1 that seems to shoot pretty well if you look at the 6x5's

It sure beats knocking a little white ball with clubs all around a well manicured piece of terrain that would be more suited for a place to participate in long range precision rifle fire.
 
It sure beats knocking a little white ball with clubs all around a well manicured piece of terrain that would be more suited for a place to participate in long range precision rifle fire.

We were "hitting", at least I was ;) , a little white ball ( ours is orange) this last Saturday at 200 and 210 yards. They're not useless.🤠
 
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We were "hitting", at least I was ;) , a little white ball ( ours is orange) this last Saturday at 200 and 210 yards. They're not useless.🤠

I've turned those dimply little spheres into enjoyable targets. They are a lot of fun to hit with a .22LR or anything else.

I got tired of chasing them all over the back stop so I devised a method of watching them bounce around but not have to go down range to put my back of place by constantly picking them up.

Below is a target frame that I made. The golf ball is suspended by two lines that are tied through two holes at the top of the wood furring strips.

I used mason line as it is tough. I get it in a dark color that blends in with the backstop. So, even with a scope, all you see is the orb suspended in space.

To get the line through the ball, I drill a hole in it first. The hole needs to be large enough to push a crochet needle through.

I push the needle through the hole and hook a line about 3-4 feet long in the middle. The line is pulled through the hole to the other side far enough to tie a double or triple knot on the looped end.

This leaves two strands of line on the other side of the ball that you can tie to the frame.

The ball will take a lot of punishment but will eventually need replaced. Nevertheless, it lasts a long time.

These photos were taken at range where the ball is located 110 yards away. I like to watch the look on everyone's face after shooting the ball. However, I must say that I need to try the 200 yard challenge. On the other hand, I may try to one-up you with 300 yards😁

At 300 yards a 1.68 inch golf ball is .535 MOA. So, I think I could give myself 1 out of 5 shots of hitting it with my 224V. I'll get back with you if that happens but first need to charge up the batteries for my camcorder because you skeptics won't take my word for it unless I get video.

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I've turned those dimply little spheres into enjoyable targets. They are a lot of fun to hit with a .22LR or anything else.

I got tired of chasing them all over the back stop so I devised a method of watching them bounce around but not have to go down range to put my back of place by constantly picking them up.

Below is a target frame that I made. The golf ball is suspended by two lines that are tied through two holes at the top of the wood furring strips.

I used mason line as it is tough. I get it in a dark color that blends in with the backstop. So, even with a scope, all you see is the orb suspended in space.

To get the line through the ball, I drill a hole in it first. The hole needs to be large enough to push a crochet needle through.

I push the needle through the hole and hook a line about 3-4 feet long in the middle. The line is pulled through the hole to the other side far enough to tie a double or triple knot on the looped end.

This leaves two strands of line on the other side of the ball that you can tie to the frame.

The ball will take a lot of punishment but will eventually need replaced. Nevertheless, it lasts a long time.

These photos were taken at range where the ball is located 110 yards away. I like to watch the look on everyone's face after shooting the ball. However, I must say that I need to try the 200 yard challenge. On the other hand, I may try to one-up you with 300 yards😁

At 300 yards a 1.68 inch golf ball is .535 MOA. So, I think I could give myself 1 out of 5 shots of hitting it with my 224V. I'll get back with you if that happens but first need to charge up the batteries for my camcorder because you skeptics won't take my word for it unless I get video.

View attachment 7374095 View attachment 7374096
Thank you for the write up on this!! I’m be visiting the hardware store and building a rack like this!
 
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I've turned those dimply little spheres into enjoyable targets. They are a lot of fun to hit with a .22LR or anything else.

I got tired of chasing them all over the back stop so I devised a method of watching them bounce around but not have to go down range to put my back of place by constantly picking them up.

Below is a target frame that I made. The golf ball is suspended by two lines that are tied through two holes at the top of the wood furring strips.

I used mason line as it is tough. I get it in a dark color that blends in with the backstop. So, even with a scope, all you see is the orb suspended in space.

To get the line through the ball, I drill a hole in it first. The hole needs to be large enough to push a crochet needle through.

I push the needle through the hole and hook a line about 3-4 feet long in the middle. The line is pulled through the hole to the other side far enough to tie a double or triple knot on the looped end.

This leaves two strands of line on the other side of the ball that you can tie to the frame.

The ball will take a lot of punishment but will eventually need replaced. Nevertheless, it lasts a long time.

These photos were taken at range where the ball is located 110 yards away. I like to watch the look on everyone's face after shooting the ball. However, I must say that I need to try the 200 yard challenge. On the other hand, I may try to one-up you with 300 yards😁

At 300 yards a 1.68 inch golf ball is .535 MOA. So, I think I could give myself 1 out of 5 shots of hitting it with my 224V. I'll get back with you if that happens but first need to charge up the batteries for my camcorder because you skeptics won't take my word for it unless I get video.

View attachment 7374095 View attachment 7374096

Ours is suspended.

You need to try it on the clock with only one shot after you've shot the entire COF. ;)

One guy in our group hits it consistently. On the clock. After clearing the COF. They started calling him Peter "Golf Ball". He's won the last two matches there.
 
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Ours is suspended.

You need to try it on the clock with only one shot after you've shot the entire COF. ;)

One guy in our group hits it consistently. On the clock. After clearing the COF. They started calling him Peter "Golf Ball". He's won the last two matches there.

Are you using the .22LR at 200 yards?

Also, what is your COF?
 
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Are you using the .22LR at 200 yards?

Also, what is your COF?
Yes. So there’s two sides

Left side COF:

75yd: two little man targets with a 1.5” diamond in the middle with a flapper. Alternate left right 5 shots total

100yd: KYL rack with I believe 9 plates

125yd: piano keys and have to spin the black key in the center 360* for it to count as a point. 5 shots total

150yds: ipsc target with3 sets of holes. Top hole are the the smallest and worth 3 points. Middle hole is worth 2 points and slightly larger. Bottom hole is the largest and worth 1 point. 5 shots total as well. Each hole size has a flapper that alternates sides when shot and to get the points it has to completely change sides.

200yd: 5 geometric shapes one shot per shape

200yd: golf ball and you have your last shot to hit it. Worth 5 points.

Right side COF

50yd: KYL rack 8 shots I believe

100yd: Hostage rack. 4 hostages decreasing in size, then a ipsc with shoulder flapper. Shoot flapper twice but it has to flip for the points to count

150yd: 5 geometric shapes, one shot apiece

175&200yd: 4” or 6” plate at 175 And 200yd. One shot per plate alternating for 5 shots. (Holdover stage)

210yds: 5 geometric shapes one shot apiece

210yd: golf ball. Single shot and worth 5 points.

30rds total per side.
 
Yes. So there’s two sides

Left side COF:

75yd: two little man targets with a 1.5” diamond in the middle with a flapper. Alternate left right 5 shots total

100yd: KYL rack with I believe 9 plates

125yd: piano keys and have to spin the black key in the center 360* for it to count as a point. 5 shots total

150yds: ipsc target with3 sets of holes. Top hole are the the smallest and worth 3 points. Middle hole is worth 2 points and slightly larger. Bottom hole is the largest and worth 1 point. 5 shots total as well. Each hole size has a flapper that alternates sides when shot and to get the points it has to completely change sides.

200yd: 5 geometric shapes one shot per shape

200yd: golf ball and you have your last shot to hit it. Worth 5 points.

Right side COF

50yd: KYL rack 8 shots I believe

100yd: Hostage rack. 4 hostages decreasing in size, then a ipsc with shoulder flapper. Shoot flapper twice but it has to flip for the points to count

150yd: 5 geometric shapes, one shot apiece

175&200yd: 4” or 6” plate at 175 And 200yd. One shot per plate alternating for 5 shots. (Holdover stage)

210yds: 5 geometric shapes one shot apiece

210yd: golf ball. Single shot and worth 5 points.

30rds total per side.

 
Yes. So there’s two sides

Left side COF:

75yd: two little man targets with a 1.5” diamond in the middle with a flapper. Alternate left right 5 shots total

100yd: KYL rack with I believe 9 plates

125yd: piano keys and have to spin the black key in the center 360* for it to count as a point. 5 shots total

150yds: ipsc target with3 sets of holes. Top hole are the the smallest and worth 3 points. Middle hole is worth 2 points and slightly larger. Bottom hole is the largest and worth 1 point. 5 shots total as well. Each hole size has a flapper that alternates sides when shot and to get the points it has to completely change sides.

200yd: 5 geometric shapes one shot per shape

200yd: golf ball and you have your last shot to hit it. Worth 5 points.

Right side COF

50yd: KYL rack 8 shots I believe

100yd: Hostage rack. 4 hostages decreasing in size, then a ipsc with shoulder flapper. Shoot flapper twice but it has to flip for the points to count

150yd: 5 geometric shapes, one shot apiece

175&200yd: 4” or 6” plate at 175 And 200yd. One shot per plate alternating for 5 shots. (Holdover stage)

210yds: 5 geometric shapes one shot apiece

210yd: golf ball. Single shot and worth 5 points.

30rds total per side.

You forgot to add on the 100 yd hostage rack that if you hit a hostage instead of the aggressor, you lose 5 points.

3:30 for prone stages and 4:30 for tripod and barrier stages. 7 seconds and 9 seconds/rnd average respectively. And two mag changes. One if you run 15 round mags but I have yet to see that except semi autos.

It looks a lot like this only four and decreasing in size left to right.

Product_368_487.png
 
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I forget to mention the legendary "egg shot." I had to watch the video over and over and over and over again, just to make sure that she wasn't cheating. Just saying.




Off hand w/ a semi is extremely impressive. It's not like she was missing by a lot either. I couldn't do it like her. My off hand sucks. But give me a tripod. 🤠
 
You forgot to add on the 100 yd hostage rack that if you hit a hostage instead of the aggressor, you lose 5 points.

3:30 for prone stages and 4:30 for tripod and barrier stages. 7 seconds and 9 seconds/rnd average respectively. And two mag changes. One if you run 15 round mags but I have yet to see that except semi autos.

It looks a lot like this only four and decreasing in size left to right.

View attachment 7374378

That's a cool target setup.
 
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