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Ruger 10/22 Competition Rifle (Ruger Custom Shop)
- Thread starter Tucker301
- Start date
I'm with ya on that. It wont hold up to the kid. I just put kid parts in my ruger competition. He makes a wicked 10/22
this build uses a Brownell’s receiver, Feddersen Match Barrel, KIDD bolt, handle, spring, and 2lb tuned BX trigger. It’s one hole at 50yrds with CCI SV.
I shoot the factory 10/22 Ruger Competition and haven't had any issues, except with CCI SV extracting live rounds. I have landed on shooting SK+ ammo and keeping extractor/chamber clean from any gunk build up. It shoots great, I don't think it needs any extra parts. I haven't had any malfunctions in the NRL22 competitions with it.
If you were to buy a 10/22 Competition, and then spend another $350 on parts, then I'd say you should've just bought the KIDD Super Kid for $1050 directly from KIDD
otherwise for $650 it's a fantastic rifle. You can send the BX trigger to Brimstone for a full trigger job for $95.
If you were to buy a 10/22 Competition, and then spend another $350 on parts, then I'd say you should've just bought the KIDD Super Kid for $1050 directly from KIDD
otherwise for $650 it's a fantastic rifle. You can send the BX trigger to Brimstone for a full trigger job for $95.
I built the above rifle including the Boyd’s stock for under $625. I’d rather build than buy, much more fun and shoots lights outI shoot the factory 10/22 Ruger Competition and haven't had any issues, except with CCI SV extracting live rounds. I have landed on shooting SK+ ammo and keeping extractor/chamber clean from any gunk build up. It shoots great, I don't think it needs any extra parts. I haven't had any malfunctions in the NRL22 competitions with it.
If you were to buy a 10/22 Competition, and then spend another $350 on parts, then I'd say you should've just bought the KIDD Super Kid for $1050 directly from KIDD
Agree, building it all up from scratch will be the cheapest route. I was just commenting on buying the 10/22 Competition, then paying $350 for KIDD parts.
Yes, that would be pointless. The Feddersen and Sons barrels are extremely accurate and a great bargain. The Boyd’s At-One stocks are an incredible value and make the rifle adaptable to everyone in the family. I put together 3 of these for other people and they will out shoot any Ruger.. I have a Ruger Precision Rimfire, even with a GM match barrel it’s not as accurate as any of the ones I built.
I shoot the factory 10/22 Ruger Competition and haven't had any issues, except with CCI SV extracting live rounds. I have landed on shooting SK+ ammo and keeping extractor/chamber clean from any gunk build up. It shoots great, I don't think it needs any extra parts. I haven't had any malfunctions in the NRL22 competitions with it.
If you were to buy a 10/22 Competition, and then spend another $350 on parts, then I'd say you should've just bought the KIDD Super Kid for $1050 directly from KIDD
I did all these upgrades because the gun wasnt accepting enough loads. Its accepting most loads now so these parts made a huge difference. I plan on finishing my own kidd rifle with all my recently purchased upgrade parts.... then my Ruger and it's original parts will go back together for my daughter who's just starting up.
Yeah, if you're reading this and your on the fence about buying a Ruger competition, theres a 50 50 chance you'll be good out of the box according to what I hear around here and there's probably 100 % chance ruger will make it right but you'll be without your gun for a while. Sucks they dont get it right the first time. I really hate that, especially with a premium price point and with custom shop status.
Hey, when I get this gun out for final tests it might shoot lights out and I might end up being really happy with its accuracy.
My last kid part went in tonight, what a difference. After all this work, I think rhe feeding and ejection issues stemmed from a Ruger factory bolt handle which was slightly out of spec and rubbing to much.
That's very odd when the claim that this new competition action is supposed to super premium machined. But good idea, once you finish your KIDD build, just send yours back to ruger for them to make it right.
Whoa! I got my rifle cycling EVERYTHING. even 45 gr subs by federal ( 950fps ) ,45 gr subs by CCI 875 or so ...everything goes now. What a great feeling! Everything chambers,fires and cycles.
I bought a Walmart (back when they actually sold rifles) 10/22 for $189 OTD years ago. It couldn’t get through a 10rd Mag without a malfunction. Tried many different mags. Maybe I should have sent it back to a Ruger but instead I through it in the safe where it sat for 3 years. Saw a used Kidd bolt online for $60 and through it in the rifle. Hasn’t had a malfunction since. So many on the 10/22 bolts are out of spec. Kidd bolts are all I’ll use in a build.
Silly question, did the kidd bolt have a kid bolt handle by chance?
My bolt didnt run right until I changed the handle too. I didnt think a handle could make a difference... are you running kidd bolt handle?
Ive got about 4 10/22s currently and they all have a kidd rod and handle, they are so much slicker then the factory. Ive never personally had issues with any of mine stock but I havent bought one since the 50th anniversary editions.
The handle did not come with the bolt. I purchased it and the 3 recoil spring pack separately. I’ve only used the standard weight spring. I do not run a buffer pin.
If you drop a Kidd bolt into your receiver, you see immediately how much slicker and tighter the bolt fits and travels. On the Brownell’s receiver you do have to trim back the guide rail opposite the ejection port to get the Kidd Bolt to fit. Takes about 5 minutes of some careful Dremel work.
Ruger designed the 10/22 but they sure as shit can't build one.
My Kidd has a Liberty integrally suppressed barrel so it's not a comp. type rifle but is still pretty damn accurate with the 4.5" it has left. More than a factory one for sure. And the action and trigger are just bar none and the Titan stock is just the tits.
I SBR'd my factory 10/22 with a cut down folding stock and turned it into what is pretty much a toy. A toy that really never gets used.
My Kidd has a Liberty integrally suppressed barrel so it's not a comp. type rifle but is still pretty damn accurate with the 4.5" it has left. More than a factory one for sure. And the action and trigger are just bar none and the Titan stock is just the tits.
I SBR'd my factory 10/22 with a cut down folding stock and turned it into what is pretty much a toy. A toy that really never gets used.
I have a Kidd barreled action and agree its amazing how much better the engineering is. I wouldnt mind seeing the ruger competition but with the Kidd dont see myself buying one honestly.
I looked at the new Ruger competition yesterday and a beautiful gun it is, just not $800 worth to me. I bought the Ruger RPR and put a Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18x 44 scope on it for the same money. I have 4 10/22's now and 2 have aftermarket heavy barrels and fit the bill for what I need. Just my .02
I got mine for $650... at $650 it's definitely worth the price imo, and it shoots well.
If you were looking to get into precision, and want a bolt. I think the Tikka T1X would be the way to go, or some CZ 457.
I also have 4 10/22 plus 1 cz455. I just need 1 more bolt gun leaning toward the t1x.
If you do buy one and have trouble with extraction, consider getting the Volquartsen or KIDD extractor/firing pin combo.
So far, I've added the Volquartsen extractor/firing pin combo, KIDD bolt buffers, and trigger housing pins, plus KIDD two-stage trigger.
The KIDD trigger was just a want not a need as were the trigger housing pins.
Some Competition models run just fine without adding anything!
Mine only shot average groups at first but it now consistently cuts holes with CCI SV.
So far, I've added the Volquartsen extractor/firing pin combo, KIDD bolt buffers, and trigger housing pins, plus KIDD two-stage trigger.
The KIDD trigger was just a want not a need as were the trigger housing pins.
Some Competition models run just fine without adding anything!
Mine only shot average groups at first but it now consistently cuts holes with CCI SV.
ive had trouble with mine cycling in cold weather, thats a new problem. I got this thing over the summer, It wont cycle cci sv, or almost anything that says match on the box when it's warm.. Only sk standard reliably cycles in it. I like sk standard anyway, but it did take a long time to find that out. It'll eat all the sk stuff I've tried, standard, Midas, long range. Never tried bulk ammo and won't. I dont know how to make this thing reliably cycle in cold weather. I picked up a kidd handle and spring kit, brimstone did the trigger, kidds trigger pins. Volquartsen buffer. Thinking hard on a kidd two stage trigger. I clean it every time I shoot, and use one drop of oil over the bolt. It's accurate enough for the nrl22 shoots, but the reliability is terrible. Im going to experiment with the recoil springs in the kidd set and see if it improves.
With cold weather the rounds generally ignite slower with less velocity and pressure. So you will get cycling issues. Try Eley Force.
SK Pistol match special also is a little higher velocity. I ended up lot testing and found a faster lot of SK standard plus that worked well. But I have seen slower lots that would jam.
Ill try out the eley force. Ill try the dry lubricant too, but as a mechanic I dont usally run things dry metal on metal. this gun is accurate, at 50 yards it drives tacks. our nrl22 shoot had a kyl rack where you got more points for the .25 target at 35 yards. i shot it off a bucket and two different cinder blocks and cleared the stage. hell, i was aiming at different parts of the .25 target trying to get it to spin LESS because its spinning was running me out of time. Should i just buy the kidd two stage? i have a brimstone and the kidd trigger pins. so far ive bought a handle and spring guide rod, and pins from kidd, and everything has been pretty well made.
If I were to do this again, I would buy a kid and get it right the first time. I should just finish up my rifle w all kidd parts and sell the ruger with all the original parts that I took out that are now sitting on my bench.
I do however LOVE my ruger now that's it's done w kidd parts.
I do however LOVE my ruger now that's it's done w kidd parts.
I wouldn't pay sticker for this rifle. The cycling problems in the summer with all different kinds of ammunition had me leaving it at home for events and taking a bolt gun instead. The cz guys at the nrl22 events almost never have a misfire. You can't be sure it'll run through a full mag. I got it to shoot through a whole match once all year with sk ammo, I went monthly to the nrl22 events and to a zombie shoot in the fall. I had a dnf due to this gun last month in nrl22, and at the zombie shoot it crapped out. you can't compete if your gun won't cycle. I won't buy bulk ammunition either, maybe it's my fault for not wanting damaged ammunition in my gun but I'm not paying for a competition rifle and buying bent and crushed ammunition for it.
That being said, I'm too dumb to get rid of it or park it and get a cz for less money and more reliability. I'll stick a 300 dollar two stage on it and continue shovelling money into this piece of crap.
Just send it back to Ruger and have them fix it?
I bought one fresh stock and after it broke in with a few hundred rounds it hasn't had any issues. I run SK+ and have done multiple NRL22 matches with it.
I bought one fresh stock and after it broke in with a few hundred rounds it hasn't had any issues. I run SK+ and have done multiple NRL22 matches with it.
I also wouldn't pay retail for this. I got mine for $650. At the $800 range, I'd go with the new Christensen Arms Ranger 22 or even the B14R for $865.
New here - wish I would have seen this thread before I bought mine, lots of good thoughts here. Got it at the $680 mark, and really liked it for the standard speckled green/black stock - not a huge stainless fan on the other options. Just comes across as a good balance between a target shooter and woods gun to my eye on the aesthetic front.
The factory trigger left me feeling sad, so I ended up dropping the 2-stage Kidd in it. Had to remove the slightest amount of material inside the inletting above the tang area to get it to fit.
I shot a mix of Eley (Force, Contact, Target), Aguila Super Extra Standard, Norma (TAC and Match), and Federal Champion Standard. I had FTE issues with the Contact ammo, everything else was 100%. From there, I swapped out the guide rod, spring, charging handle and extractor with Kidd, and using the -10% spring solved the Eley Contact FTE issue. When I went through all of that, I figured I'd swap the firing pin as well, but once pinned in, my Kidd firing pin won't move at all - not sure if it is too tight against the main retainer pin or what. Figured I'd play with that more later - might need to loosen up the retainer hole on the Kidd firing pin.
The part I'm most surprised by quality-wise is the bolt. It is actually pretty solid and slick, so I left that alone. Between it, the Kidd charging handle and spring/rod - it cycles like lubed glass now.
After another range session and in this final config, mine definitely shoots the Norma Match and Eley Force the best. I print in the 5 shot/.5" range @ 50 yards with those routinely and I am by no means the best shooter. I'm sure it'll change tomorrow when they make a new batch, but here's full box data for each of those out of the 16"-ish barrel from my last session if it helps anyone:
My thought is to use the Norma for suppressed and the Eley Force for hunting. I've seen Norma be a little squiffy through the years, so hopefully I don't have to do another multi-box shootout evaluation any time soon.
Overall, I do really like it, although I didn't purchase it expecting to turn it into a project rifle. It is my first 10/22, so I'm pretty sure at least half of my decisions were made through the haze of the "aftermarket kid (or Kidd) in a candy store" effect.
Personally, if I had it to do over again and knew I'd spend this much, I'd probably just consider one of those Volquartsen Summit straight pulls I didn't know existed before I started lurking on these forums - although the 'humpback' look on that receiver doesn't score high appeal points with me - but it still seems like a fine rifle.
The factory trigger left me feeling sad, so I ended up dropping the 2-stage Kidd in it. Had to remove the slightest amount of material inside the inletting above the tang area to get it to fit.
I shot a mix of Eley (Force, Contact, Target), Aguila Super Extra Standard, Norma (TAC and Match), and Federal Champion Standard. I had FTE issues with the Contact ammo, everything else was 100%. From there, I swapped out the guide rod, spring, charging handle and extractor with Kidd, and using the -10% spring solved the Eley Contact FTE issue. When I went through all of that, I figured I'd swap the firing pin as well, but once pinned in, my Kidd firing pin won't move at all - not sure if it is too tight against the main retainer pin or what. Figured I'd play with that more later - might need to loosen up the retainer hole on the Kidd firing pin.
The part I'm most surprised by quality-wise is the bolt. It is actually pretty solid and slick, so I left that alone. Between it, the Kidd charging handle and spring/rod - it cycles like lubed glass now.
After another range session and in this final config, mine definitely shoots the Norma Match and Eley Force the best. I print in the 5 shot/.5" range @ 50 yards with those routinely and I am by no means the best shooter. I'm sure it'll change tomorrow when they make a new batch, but here's full box data for each of those out of the 16"-ish barrel from my last session if it helps anyone:
| Eley Force | |
| Avg | 1175 |
| Std Dev | 14.1 |
| Min | 1147 |
| Max | 1200 |
| Delta | 53 |
| Norma Match-22 | |
| Avg | 1049 |
| Std Dev | 17.4 |
| Min | 1020 |
| Max | 1071 |
| Delta | 51 |
My thought is to use the Norma for suppressed and the Eley Force for hunting. I've seen Norma be a little squiffy through the years, so hopefully I don't have to do another multi-box shootout evaluation any time soon.
Overall, I do really like it, although I didn't purchase it expecting to turn it into a project rifle. It is my first 10/22, so I'm pretty sure at least half of my decisions were made through the haze of the "aftermarket kid (or Kidd) in a candy store" effect.
Personally, if I had it to do over again and knew I'd spend this much, I'd probably just consider one of those Volquartsen Summit straight pulls I didn't know existed before I started lurking on these forums - although the 'humpback' look on that receiver doesn't score high appeal points with me - but it still seems like a fine rifle.
Not sure what your temps are there, but Contact cycled pretty slow for me when it was cold, and slow that it would jam in colder weather. Swapping the spring would help like you did. Ultimately with the stock configuration I need to be shooting stuff in the 1035+ fps range to cycle consistently.
Also agree with the KIDD trigger being better. I also had issues getting it to go back... and I ended up hammering it in because I didn't know how to remove material in the stock :S. Luckily it shoots well still ~1inch at 100 yards with SK Standard Plus.
Also agree with the KIDD trigger being better. I also had issues getting it to go back... and I ended up hammering it in because I didn't know how to remove material in the stock :S. Luckily it shoots well still ~1inch at 100 yards with SK Standard Plus.
Very nice! I've never tried any of the SK stuff of the CCI SV I've seen referenced here - I may have to give them a swing in the near future to see if I can get a little bit better confluence of price and quality on ammo. I do all of my testing at an indoor range that's climate controlled - didn't read the temp on the stat but I suspect it was probably between 68-74F. I think the Contact just didn't have enough oompf to get the bolt back reliably, but all is well now with the reduced weight spring. I don't like shooting anything too far beyond 1200 fps on .22LR anyhow, so the lighter spring should be good for my applications. Someone out there probably has something, but I've just not seen a 22 that keeps the group together when the velocities tend towards ludicrous speed.
On the material removal in the stock - I calipered it best I could (admittedly tough considering the laminate can be a little uneven and the slight curvature on the 'bump out' on the back of the Kidd trigger - and it was so small I didn't even want to take a Dremel to it. I ended up using a jeweler's flat screwdriver blade and essentially shaving out a little at a time until the fit didn't require a lot of force. Now it slots in fairly easily.
On the material removal in the stock - I calipered it best I could (admittedly tough considering the laminate can be a little uneven and the slight curvature on the 'bump out' on the back of the Kidd trigger - and it was so small I didn't even want to take a Dremel to it. I ended up using a jeweler's flat screwdriver blade and essentially shaving out a little at a time until the fit didn't require a lot of force. Now it slots in fairly easily.
i bought the kidd two stage 8-8 oz trigger with the flat red trigger, and the accutac adapter to cram the atlas bipod under it. the postman has my trigger, so maybe I'll see it tomorrow. sk is supposed to be making semi auto sk, dont know when. I do have a few boxes of the sk long range. gotta do some testing, I suppose. the kidd handle and spring kit seems pretty slick. we'll see how it goes.
Let me know how you like that Accu Tac adapter. Didn't know they were out there till you brought them up. Had a Cabela's gift card so I bought the cheap-ish Caldwell sling stud to pic adapter. It seems decent, but is far from low profile and I have to make minor tension adjustments to my Atlas between my Mac A5 rail on my BCR29 when switching back and forth. Would seriously entertain switching if I could get some consistency.
i got the kidd two stage today, and the accutac adapter yesterday. I'll have to drill a hole in my stock for the adapter. i have two others, i put one on a boyds evolution for my marlin 2000, and a uit to 1913 adapter on the bottom of the 2000 blue stock. That adapter fits my anschutz rail too, I guess it should. seems to fit well and it was cheap. i got the one set up for rounded stocks, with hardware. seems to fit the contour of the stock. So Ill figure out how to drill that out, and take it shooting. this trigger is pretty slick at 8oz/8oz.
When someone figures out how to nicely mount an Arca rail to this stock, let me know! I have a bunch of arca accessories I'd love to run on this...
This may not be a problem with your rifle but with my Ruger 10/22 Target Light I have to keep the chamber very clean. My gunsmith gave this idea to me and it runs great now. I have a nylon 22 brush bent 90 degrees and just gently run it in and out once does it. Solved problems I was having. I also wonder if a 10/22 is right on the edge of cycling would the steel buffers make the bolt rebound just a little harder? I have no idea, but it seems possible.
i scrub mine every time i shoot it. most decent ammunition has a wax or lube coating on the bullet that builds up in the gun and gums things up. So I scrub mine out. it gets cleaned after every time I shoot it, and one drop of oil covering the entire coated bolt. now I'm rethinking oil and going to look into dry lube for cold weather. Maybe make one change at a time, oil it lightly like always, and change recoil springs first. I'll shoot it this week and see how it goes, experiment a bit. Its gotten kidd trigger pins, kidd charging handle and guide rod/spring kit, kidd two stage trigger. The gunsmith is drilling out a hole for the accutac 1913 adapter, I'll pick up the gun tomorrow.
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