Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Question to anyone who would know.
Before I mount my scope on this new rifle, does anyone know what the torque setting is on the 20 MOA scope base on the Ruger Precision just in case the screws are lose?
Thanks in advance for your reply.

In general 25-30 INCH POUNDS with blue loctite.

NOT FOOT POUNDS
 
I guess that 9-13 or there abouts, can get kind of leggy? ...maybe even unstable depending on the weight of the rifle? I am looking at Harris, but will not rule out other quality brands.

The taller the legs on the bipod the more slack can develop, leading to more importance as to whether or not you load it, and how much. Also you have to consider your shooting position. If you’re looking to shoot prone, then you will need a higher rear support to make up for the taller front support. Also, consider your shooting surface. The ground can get uneven, so having a bipod that has a cant feature is nice. However if the feet are on a shooting mat, it can be a little more slick. I use a Harris 6-9 with pod talons (spiked feet on the ground) and a rear bag. Works just great for me.
 
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So kreiger now offers a .300 win mag 26" 1:9 twist heavy profiled barrel for the RPR magnum. Should I even waste the money developing a load for the factory barrel or just jump right to the kreiger barrel first? I almost wish Ruger would sell the rifle less barrel for a cheaper price. That way you can just add a true match grade barrel of your choice at a lower overall price.
 
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If it were me.....I would develop a load for your factory barrel. Stock ruger barrels are far from shitty. I would find your load/node and shoot the hell outta it. Get to know the rifle, then look forward to the upgrade of a new barrel. Then you will have more appreciation for how consistent and accurate the match barrel will be.

But that's just me, if you got the $ go ahead and get it ordered.
 
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I did what Pilotscrappy suggested above with my .308 and after 3700+ rounds on the factory I swapped it out for a Krieger barrel and it then took a couple hundred rounds to find the load that satisfies me. . . not to forget that you won't want to use the brass fired in the factory barrel (assuming you're reloading). So, you might say there's a little extra expense in going with this route. Though I did enjoy the 3700 rounds as the factory barrel did pretty well . . . just not as good as the Krieger barrel. I also now enjoy the easier cleaning aspect of my Krieger SS barrel as well as accuracy nodes that are somewhat larger.
 
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I am coming off the bench, and going to a shooting mat; what is a common height bi-pod I should be looking for?

How big or thin are you? My body can use a 6-9 off the bench no problem but my big butt is nearly maxed on these bipods when shooting prone. Also you ever shoot at a target up hill some, then you will want the taller bipod if shooting prone.

Just a couple things to think about.
 
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I did what Pilotscrappy suggested above with my .308 and after 3700+ rounds on the factory I swapped it out for a Krieger barrel and it then took a couple hundred rounds to find the load that satisfies me. . . not to forget that you won't want to use the brass fired in the factory barrel (assuming you're reloading). So, you might say there's a little extra expense in going with this route. Though I did enjoy the 3700 rounds as the factory barrel did pretty well . . . just not as good as the Krieger barrel. I also now enjoy the easier cleaning aspect of my Krieger SS barrel as well as accuracy nodes that are somewhat larger.

Same here. With my hand loads and the factory barrel, I don’t see anything over 1/2 moa. Sure a Krieger might shrink that slightly. Just depends what your standards are.
 
I am barrel chested, and I am afraid that a 6-9 is not going to give enough elevation for me to comfortably get behind the glass. I have been looking at the 9-13 in Harris options, as well as the Atlas 7-13.
 
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I did what Pilotscrappy suggested above with my .308 and after 3700+ rounds on the factory I swapped it out for a Krieger barrel and it then took a couple hundred rounds to find the load that satisfies me. . . not to forget that you won't want to use the brass fired in the factory barrel (assuming you're reloading). So, you might say there's a little extra expense in going with this route. Though I did enjoy the 3700 rounds as the factory barrel did pretty well . . . just not as good as the Krieger barrel. I also now enjoy the easier cleaning aspect of my Krieger SS barrel as well as accuracy nodes that are somewhat larger.
How did it take you a few hundred rounds to find a load in the new barrel? Seems excessive
 
How did it take you a few hundred rounds to find a load in the new barrel? Seems excessive

Hmmm??? Well, I'd say "a few hundred" is a lot more than the "couple hundred" I mentioned. Anyway . . . first, I didn't do any load development during the break in process. Then, I tend to agree that a couple hundred is probably excessive as I didn't try to minimize what it took to really nail down a load to be sure it's repeatable. And I feel a couple hundred rounds also helps a lot in getting the barrel fully settled down/broken in to get the consistency with that load I feel I can depend on giving me the tightest possible groups. I don't know, 50 - 100 rounds just doesn't seem to me like enough to get a statistical number that tells me much . . .??? And maybe that's just reflective of my skill set??? :cautious:
 
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Fairly new here. Been shooting "precision" for quite some time, but not really. I'm looking at the LRI barrel. I see I can get it chambered to the hornady ELDM. my question is, is it to the projectile, or the round? If I played with OAL some, or used Lapua brass, would that be what the barrel should be chambered to ? I appreciate any help, as I am only recently delving into this world.
 
Both will shoot whatever. Mine is the eld-m chamber. It shoots the ELDs better than Bergers it just makes a difference as far as how the throat is. The Berger’s are longer so they have to be loaded shorter due to the eld chamber.

The brass won’t make a difference as long as everything is within spec. It would still get matched up with standard go/no go guages.
 
Same here. With my hand loads and the factory barrel, I don’t see anything over 1/2 moa. Sure a Krieger might shrink that slightly. Just depends what your standards are.
I want a true 1/2 moa or better 5 shot groups, repeatably. I will be handloading and haven't had a chance to shoot it yet in stock form due to unforeseen issues . Likely go the kreiger barrel route if factory barrel can't deliver the accuracy. Thx
 
Picked up my new RPR in 308 and stuck a scope and bipod on it, grabbed a couple of boxes of Federal gmm 168 and went to the shooting bench, Man am I liking this thing, After getting it zeroed at 100 yards I set about seeing how it would group, I shot 3 consecutive 5 shot groups 1rst was .615, 2nd was .699 ,last was .598. I think these rifles are a great bang for the buck.
 
I've been firing mostly 175 SMK's and recently found a load for my new Krieger barrel that's working well at 42.5 gr IMR 4064. I was loading up the last of my SMK's and had 3 cases left ready for seating, so I seated 3 of the 175 gr Nosler Custom Competition that I pick up on a very good clearance deal. I was surprised that this load, which is working great with my SMK's, apparently works well the these NCC's too. The 3 rounds gave me one hole (@100 yds). Now I've loaded up 50 more to try again tomorrow and see if they really will give me that kind of performance with that load.
 
Where can i get a new/stock RPR 6.5CM barrel? I've googled but haven't found a good source.

Thanks
I spent some time on eBay/Gunbroker searching but not luck. I reached out to Ruger and they said "The barrel is a factory fitted item and can't be sold to anyone; it needs to be installed by our technicians at the factory. We would only re-barrel the firearm with the original length and caliber it came with. "

Is there another forum here I could post on?
 
I spent some time on eBay/Gunbroker searching but not luck. I reached out to Ruger and they said "The barrel is a factory fitted item and can't be sold to anyone; it needs to be installed by our technicians at the factory. We would only re-barrel the firearm with the original length and caliber it came with. "

Is there another forum here I could post on?
I would try posting on the Snipers Hide Post Exchange - PX Accessories subforum with a Wanted to Buy (WTB) ad stating your request. There are some here that have taken the factory RPR barrel off and immediately replaced it with an upgraded one without ever shooting it. You may be able to pick one up from another member for a reasonable price.
 
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I have a pic bubble that hangs off the side to level the rifle. Then I have a separate bubble that I can sit on top of the turret. When I level everything out, my eye sees the reticle being off by maybe a hair. I have yet to take it somewhere that I can reference the reticle against to make sure its level.

I'm going to pick up a Knights Armament level and see if that is any better.
I use some string tied to a weight and hung up, and then level rifle. I use the string (plumb line) to line up reticle while rifle is level.
 
is it normal to get worse grouping when you move to a larger caliber?

I am pretty new to distance shooting and practiced last year with a couple different rifles before settling on a rpr in 556/223. I tend to shoot just under 1 in groups at 200 yards with factory loads. I just recently purchased another rpr in 300wm and really love it. Although I'm not getting nearly the same grouping. I will say when I started with the 223 I was shooting 1.5 in groups at 100 yards. Thanks to a lot of reading here and time I tightened the group up. I had hoped moving to the 300 would not make me a worse shot. I only have about 30 rounds though the rifle of a few different factory loads. Do I just need to be patient and get in more range time?
 
I would set up your phone and video yourself, and do the same dry firing, I caught myself anticipating during live fire doing this. Knowing it, helped me to practice through it. Someone else mentioned a friend loading a snapcap in your MAG in a position you are not aware of and video the sequence, expecting a live round and it being just a dry fire might expose any twitching or anticipation that recoil might hide.
 
I've been firing mostly 175 SMK's and recently found a load for my new Krieger barrel that's working well at 42.5 gr IMR 4064. I was loading up the last of my SMK's and had 3 cases left ready for seating, so I seated 3 of the 175 gr Nosler Custom Competition that I pick up on a very good clearance deal. I was surprised that this load, which is working great with my SMK's, apparently works well the these NCC's too. The 3 rounds gave me one hole (@100 yds). Now I've loaded up 50 more to try again tomorrow and see if they really will give me that kind of performance with that load.

Well, I feel those NCC bullets seated in Federal brass with CCI200 primers and 42.5 gr of IMR 4064 worked out quite well. First shot with cold barrel was a flyer and next shots were on the POA dots . . . all less that .5 MOA. I think they'll probably do better if I tweek the seating depth. It's gratifying to me to be able to get results like that with really old eyes having a bit of glaucoma that makes it a challenge to see things really clear.
 
Thought I would throw a pic up of my RPR. It started as a Gen ii .308 from CDNN pretty cheap. The .308 shot fine but I really wanted a 6.5 Creedmoor. I found a new take-off barrel on ebay and swapped the barrel then added the Magpul furniture. I've found the PRS stock to be much more comfortable to get behind. I have a better scope on the way and may add a Timney trigger in the future. I've only got 59 rds through it but it seems to be a shooter. The target I shot today, 10 rounds. I'm an old guy with cataracts so I'll take it.


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Any issues associated with having an aftermarket stainless barrel under the keymod handguard? I won't be able to access it to oil it. Any rust issues? What if the gun gets wet?

About ready to install a new krieger barrel and wondering if i should cerakote it.

Thanks!
 
Any issues associated with having an aftermarket stainless barrel under the keymod handguard? I won't be able to access it to oil it. Any rust issues? What if the gun gets wet?

About ready to install a new krieger barrel and wondering if i should cerakote it.

Thanks!

It’s stainless so... if super humid just wipe it down or spray oil on it.