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Looks really nice GA, I want Midwest industries hand guard, issue is they only offer it in black , and no place where I live that does Cerakote so I can have cerakote FDE to match my rifle. Same time I kind want my rifle done in Tungsten color.
Where do you live at? I can probably have a buddy of mine do the coating with a quick turn around. He did my full rifle in FDE.
I live in Missouri, not really into shipping my rifle off. Nearest place to me that does Cerakote is around 3 hours away. Why I haven’t gotten real excited about it.
Gotcha. No worries. Wasnt sure if you needed just one part done or the whole rifle.
Have question for you guru’s, I have Athlon Ares BTR with 30 MOA pic rail on my RPR. I shoot normal up to 1k yards with few times a year up to 1.5k yards. Is having 30 moa going cause me issues with elevation? Would I need go back to 20 moa rail?
Also scope mounts, I prefer one piece mounts vs rings, standard or cantilever? Also thought you wanted your scope closet to the bore of your gun as possible without touching your rifle.
Here’s to scope mounts I’m looking at, spuhr mounts are little high for me. Sorry for dumb questions I’m new at this well this depth of it anyways.
Also scope mounts, I prefer one piece mounts vs rings, standard or cantilever? Also thought you wanted your scope closet to the bore of your gun as possible without touching your rifle.
Here’s to scope mounts I’m looking at, spuhr mounts are little high for me. Sorry for dumb questions I’m new at this well this depth of it anyways.
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I’d just leave the 30 MOA rail on. I use a standard one piece Warne mount and it’s been fine on my rifle for years. Cantilever is fine too but I might just put a dab of blue loctite on the little adjustment nut when you get the lever just right.
Thanks Lefty, and which Warne to you have if you don’t mind me asking. I’m still browsing scope mounts, trying figure out which one I want.
Sorry about the trouble you’re having with yours. Thanks for sharing so I can learn from the problems your having. You had said “Unfortunately for mine that doesn’t help as a check”. Were you referring to marking the bullet in sharpie?
Do you think your accuracy and feeding issues could be caused by the freebore issue?
This is the one I’m currently using. Actually I have two..
XSKEL30DE Gen 2 Extended Skeletonized 30mm MSR Mount Dark Earth -
Lightweight, skeletonized aluminum body and caps to reduce overall weight without sacrificing reliability. #8 Torx style fasteners with steel threaded inserts to prevent stripping. Additional 1 Inch cantilever forward design to provide additional eye relief. Places your optic at the Ideal...
warnescopemounts.com
They have standard, cantilever, 1”, 30mm, different colors, different MOA, some with rails on them, pretty much anything. I have two standards in 30mm no cant
Looking at the disassembly/re-assemply YouTube (), I have to wonder whether the slot where that roll pin is inserted is actually correctly aligned with the slot in the rear of the firing pin. If the retaining lug is not screwed in correctly, then it's possible that someone sloppily inserted the pin in the wrong spot and no amount of hammering will get it to go in. You may need to pull it to confirm that you have a good hole.
Anybody have issues with the magpul aics mags? Mags seem to sag a little in the rear causing the bolt to only pick up rounds like 75% of the time. Gun is a 6.5 creedmoor.
I use the two Pmag 10 LR/SR Gen M3 that came with mine, never had issue with them and haven’t adventured to different mags yet, so don’t have much helpful information to offer on the AICS ones
Yep, I ran the regular AR-10 Pmags for a few years because my oal was short enough and they ran well. Recently picked up a Magpul AICS mag and have had similar feeding issues in my 6.5. The back of the follower doesn't push the case head up enough, and the bolt rides over the case head. Doesn't happen all the time, but enough to be annoying and an issue in a match. Some folks swear by the Magpul AICS, but I've also read of other RPR owners that have had trouble with them. I think I'm going to pick up some Accurate mags or MDT steel to see if those feed reliably.
I run the Accurate Mags and have not had an issue with the 6.5. OAL is quite a bit longer than the magpul as well.
Yep, I bought three of them but looks like I will be sticking with accurate or just use the AR-10 mags.
This is mine, Ruger PR (6.5 Creedmoor), Gen 1, with Ti bolt shroud. Scope is a Sightron SIII 8-32 x 56 with LRMOA reticle. I may change the stock to a Magpul PRS at some time, which seems to be a common upgrade.
Here’s mine. It was a nice little project and now time to break in the barrel and develop a load for it.
6.5 CM 26” Kreiger barrel 7.5 twist
Magpul furniture
Timney trigger
Midwest mLock hand guard with PVA barrel nut
Atlas biPod
Badger Ordnance rings
Nightforce NSX 3.5-15x50 with zero stop MilR reticle
American Rifle 10 round steel mags with room for Hornady 147gr ELDs
Mag release extension
Bolt handle and knob upgraded
SH bolt shroud
Little Bastard brake
6.5 CM 26” Kreiger barrel 7.5 twist
Magpul furniture
Timney trigger
Midwest mLock hand guard with PVA barrel nut
Atlas biPod
Badger Ordnance rings
Nightforce NSX 3.5-15x50 with zero stop MilR reticle
American Rifle 10 round steel mags with room for Hornady 147gr ELDs
Mag release extension
Bolt handle and knob upgraded
SH bolt shroud
Little Bastard brake
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How do you like the Midwest industries hand guard? Thinking about getting one but would have too get it Cerakote. Realize last night doesn’t appear the lower part of RPR doesn’t have any numbers on it so I may be able have sent off with the hand guard and Cerakote. A Tungsten/black RPR think it would look sexy
If it's not too much trouble could I please ask one of you RPR owners to measure the width of your rifle at the stock end when you have it folded. Don't have my 6.5 yet, but was doing some case planning and I *think* my AR soft case will still work, but not sure how wide a RPR is when folded. Thanks
Need some advice or opinions, so on my RPR pic rail has a bubble level, bubble level on my turret off the scope, square with a plumb bob on my wall. So everything thing should be right in the world, but when I look through it looks like the reticle is off to the right a little, forgive the picture trying to get reticle to show up my phone was bit of challenge.
Anyways does this look off to you guys. Are my eye play tricks on me?
Anyways does this look off to you guys. Are my eye play tricks on me?
I have the exact same issue. Usually it's the first round I try to chamber that gives me issues
After reviewing some other threads it seems I may need to re-evaluate how I'm building my firing position. It's been a while since I shot precision (mostly been doing pistol for the last couple of years) so some of my fundamentals probably need a little of the rust knocked off.
Anybody wanna buy a couple of those plastic mags??
Dd
It definitely looks off a little, but I can’t tell from the picture if it’s leaning to the right or if it’s rotated to the right (or clockwise). Did you level the scope and and rifle without the bipod? Sometimes you can get it just right only to have the bipod throw you off. Or simply tightening the rings a little too much on one side can force the scope to shift.
It definitely looks off a little, but I can’t tell from the picture if it’s leaning to the right or if it’s rotated to the right (or clockwise). Did you level the scope and and rifle without the bipod? Sometimes you can get it just right only to have the bipod throw you off. Or simply tightening the rings a little too much on one side can force the scope to shift.
I picked it up today. I ran 5 sharpied rounds of factory Hornady 108gr ELD-M through it. I didn’t feel resistance having to push the round forward or anything and the rounds ejected easily. However, the bullets did have scratches on them. The 3 rounds on the left were run through the magazine. The 2 rounds on the right were single fed. What are you guys’ thoughts? It has scratches - does that mean no freebore and should go back to Ruger?
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Those are just ordinary scratches that ocure during the chambering/ejection process. What you should be looking for are clear rifling marks on the ogive which I don't see here. I think your freebore is fine.
Looks fine to me. Scratches would be more pronounced and nearer to the case neck rim if freebore was short. Looks like you got a winner.
Hey there, new to the RPR platform.
I purchased a 223 version for PRS practice. Happy with everything except the magazines. Continual feed issues, like can’t get through a whole magazine. I have filed and massaged them to no avail.
So I’m looking for a metal magazine but can’t seem t9 find anyone wit( inventory. Any suggestions?
Also, has any had feed ramp issues and/or filed the ramp area?
Thanks, John
I purchased a 223 version for PRS practice. Happy with everything except the magazines. Continual feed issues, like can’t get through a whole magazine. I have filed and massaged them to no avail.
So I’m looking for a metal magazine but can’t seem t9 find anyone wit( inventory. Any suggestions?
Also, has any had feed ramp issues and/or filed the ramp area?
Thanks, John
Only issues I had with those mags were when I was loading the bullets too long.
Finally started load development this week for my gen 3 RPR 6.5 creedmoor. Stupid easy to reload for, just about everything shoots 1/2 MOA with the 140 ELDs. I actually have no idea why people are spending money on aftermarket barrels when the OEM are shooting this good.
Looks like I got three contenders 41.7 41.9 and 42.3. not sure why I had the exact same flyers on each of my 41.7 groups, I know it was me because each flyer happen in a different sequence of fire from the two different 5rd groups of 41.7. Looks like 42.3 is going to be the Winner but I'm going to take them out to 200yrds, 300yrds get them on a Chronograph and see which one of the three different loads groups the best at distance.
Looks like I got three contenders 41.7 41.9 and 42.3. not sure why I had the exact same flyers on each of my 41.7 groups, I know it was me because each flyer happen in a different sequence of fire from the two different 5rd groups of 41.7. Looks like 42.3 is going to be the Winner but I'm going to take them out to 200yrds, 300yrds get them on a Chronograph and see which one of the three different loads groups the best at distance.
I ran my factory barrel for over 3000 rounds before it gave up the ghost.
Agreed...I’m really considering the new 300 WM with an XLR stock and Timney 2 stage.
I ordered a couple of these 2 weeks ago, got them in on Monday. In my RPR 6.5CM Gen 3, they fit very loosely and when held at the bottom, tilt/pivot front to back about 1/4-3/8" (enough to make me wonder if they were even the correct magazines). I test-cycled a full mags worth through each on the bench without any failures (surprisingly). The tilt I have does seem to correlate to your sag issue though, and I can see how that will rotate the rounds down on the rear end away from the bolt face. Guess I'll take them out to the desert and see what happens here in a couple weeks. Likely I will have similar issues with feeding that you did.
Exactly. I think people like to spend money because it makes them feel like they are getting more accuracy. Unless u are shooting for extreme accuracy, the average shooter will not see the difference. I think it's more of sense of satisfaction foe some to spend money. To me the cost to potential improvement (or not) is not worth it.
I may be biased ... My 6cm rpr shoots as well. Everything I shot was well under sub MOA. I settled on Smks at a touch under 0.5 on the 6x5
Ok, so before I sell or send mine back to Ruger for feeding and accuracy issues, any ideas? Pretty sure this is not a free bore issue as I checked distance to lands. The chambering and extraction process are chewing up the bullets and brass really bad. Much more than any other gun I've owned. Accuracy is 1/4 MOA to 1.5 MOA. Can't get a full mag to fees except with SR 25 Magpul. AI Magpul and accurate mag metal mags will bind.
My newly purchased RPR is having trouble adjusting for LOP. As shown in the first picture the lower picatinny rail and rear stock frame do not line up and slide together easily. If I pinch the adjustment rod and the lower picatinny rail together it will slide stiffly under the rear stock frame. This will allow limited and stiff adjustments, however, it will not allow for minimum LOP. As seen in the second picture, it will adjust to the point where the worn finish is and, due to friction the friction at that point, it will freeze in place. I had to let it soak in Ballistol for and few then use a lot of force to get it out of the bind. I don’t know if it’s the lower picatinny rail or the rear stock that are bad, but they don’t line up.
There’s nothing I’m missing, right? I’m going to give Ruger a call tomorrow and see if they’ll send me the rear portion of the stock. I guess I could file it down if I really wanted to? If so, should I file the lower picatinny rail or the rear stock frame?
There’s nothing I’m missing, right? I’m going to give Ruger a call tomorrow and see if they’ll send me the rear portion of the stock. I guess I could file it down if I really wanted to? If so, should I file the lower picatinny rail or the rear stock frame?
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I'm sure others will chime in soon, but I thought I would offer my two cents. I have two RPR's and both are a little clunky to adjust. I usually need to back off the thumb screw to get it to move easily. My older one (gen 2 I think) is worse than my newer 300WM. But both are a bit finicky. I'm not sure if yours is worse or not.
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