Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Exactly. I think people like to spend money because it makes them feel like they are getting more accuracy. Unless u are shooting for extreme accuracy, the average shooter will not see the difference. I think it's more of sense of satisfaction foe some to spend money. To me the cost to potential improvement (or not) is not worth it.

I may be biased ... My 6cm rpr shoots as well. Everything I shot was well under sub MOA. I settled on Smks at a touch under 0.5 on the 6x5

Well, it really comes down to that (what I've highlighted). . . doesn't it? Different people have different standards they want to hold to and what they can afford. The RPR target market seems to be those who have a limited budget AND a desire for more precision than one can get out of a standard factory gun. Then there are those who want just a little more, without having to go to financial extremes. I feel I land kinda in the latter, where my factory RPR barrel (in .308) was doing just fine giving me just a little better than .5 consistently. However, I wanted something more like .3 and I figured the only way I was going to get there is with a barrel upgrade. BUT. . . I wasn't just going to throw out my factory barrel out of the gate. Since I was new to precision shooting, I used the factory barrel to learn what I could and as I almost got to 4,000 rounds, I decided it was time to swap the barrel out for a better one (it was at the time of the birthday anyway ;) ) and not that I was losing any accuracy at the time. Well, the new barrel gives me exactly what I was looking for in accuracy . . . AND, is giving me other benefits: as in higher MV's for the same loads, larger accuracy nodes, easier cleaning. So, for me the cost was well worth it at that point in time and I've got a gun for well under $2,000 that got me to where I wanted to be. If I wanted to shoot in the .1's, I would expect to have to spend a lot more on a custom gun with much better glass.

With a 6.5 or a 6 the barrel life will be much shorter than with a .308 and one of the reasons I went with a .308. So, with one of those, one will be spending the money on a new barrel before long anyway. :sneaky:
 
My newly purchased RPR is having trouble adjusting for LOP. As shown in the first picture the lower picatinny rail and rear stock frame do not line up and slide together easily. If I pinch the adjustment rod and the lower picatinny rail together it will slide stiffly under the rear stock frame. This will allow limited and stiff adjustments, however, it will not allow for minimum LOP. As seen in the second picture, it will adjust to the point where the worn finish is and, due to friction the friction at that point, it will freeze in place. I had to let it soak in Ballistol for and few then use a lot of force to get it out of the bind. I don’t know if it’s the lower picatinny rail or the rear stock that are bad, but they don’t line up.

There’s nothing I’m missing, right? I’m going to give Ruger a call tomorrow and see if they’ll send me the rear portion of the stock. I guess I could file it down if I really wanted to? If so, should I file the lower picatinny rail or the rear stock frame?

The Ruger manual shows the buttpad off and the screws that hold the picatinny rail and main rod to the buttplate on page 97.

I have rotated the buttplate in on the one that i shoot slung up in prone matches. There was a little bit of finesse involved getting the parts lined up for the smoothest motion after they were tightened back down. It might be worth taking the buttpad off and loosening then re-tightening the parts to see if that improves the alignment and motion.

If all else fails call Ruger. Quite a few have found them quite helpful, including myself.
 
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Can someone explain to me how the barrel life differs between 6.5CM and the 308?
If I understand it correctly, 6/6.5 Creedmoor are higher velocity ammunition and therefore wear the barrel more quickly than 7.62 x 51 (.308). Also, 6 Creedmoor wears faster than 6.5 because it is a hotter cartridge as well. I think the 6.5 has about 2/3 the life of the .308, and the 6 has about 2/3 the life of the 6.5. Someone will give you some round counts I'm sure.
 
Can someone explain to me how the barrel life differs between 6.5CM and the 308?

As mentioned above, the higher velocity ammo is a factor. But if I remember correctly from people who are more in the know (maybe someone else around here can corroborate it) along with the faster twist rate it has more to do with the angle of the shoulder where the heat during firing is somehow directed more at the lands area resulting in faster degradation of that part of the barrel.

I've seen several reports of 6.5 CM's losing their accuracy after 3,000 rounds, or even sooner. But that seems to be reports from people in highly competitive environments. I suspect 6.5's can last somewhat longer than that. But, as for any decision, just when to make a replacement depends on what one wants out of the barrel.

PS: Maybe you've find this of some interest: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2012/07/09/practical-tips-to-extend-barrel-life/

and this http://dmr-llc.com/?p=246
 
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Can someone explain to me how the barrel life differs between 6.5CM and the 308?

Hot speedy rounds burn up barrels. The trade off is that you can achieve better ballistics in some cases. In fact just last year special ops snipers ditched the 7.62s and started using 6.5 CM. My .308 RPR has 3500 rounds on it and I’m hoping will go another 3500. I actually have another barrel just sitting and waiting.
 
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Thanks for the clarity. I started to figure that would be the reason but wasnt sure.

The throat starts to wear quicker due to higher pressure. I’ve heard reports of 10K on a 308 barrel and it staying under 1MOA. When I changed my 6.5 barrel at 3300+\- I was unable to keep it on a 10” plate at 400 from a prone position. For me that was unacceptable.
 
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GA_Medic, went shooting Saturday, I like XLR butt stock, feels better shooting. Loved that I could adjust it easier even having use screw driver with 4 Allen bit than messing with the ruger stock. Just my personal opinion.
7065597

7065598

Changes so far
XLR tactical lite W/ dual conversion plate
Cadex M1 Muzzle break
Seekins Precision Ambi Safety
Catalyst Arms Mag Release Extension
Athlon Ares BTR
Accu-Tac bipod
Pelican Vault V800 case

Still coming, sometime lol
Timney trigger
Spuhr scope mount
Titanium bolt shroud
upgraded bolt handle and bolt knob
Possibly fluted bolt
Possibly Midwest industries hand guard , and hand guard/ lower receiver Cerakote in Tungsten
 
Need some advice or opinions, so on my RPR pic rail has a bubble level, bubble level on my turret off the scope, square with a plumb bob on my wall. So everything thing should be right in the world, but when I look through it looks like the reticle is off to the right a little, forgive the picture trying to get reticle to show up my phone was bit of challenge.

Anyways does this look off to you guys. Are my eye play tricks on me?
View attachment 7064038

I never trust the top of the turret to level the scope. In the past I have aligned / leveled the cross hairs using a plumb bob. I do this in my shop. I mount my rifle in a secure rest using my cleaning vise or sitting on it's bi-bod. I make sure the rifle is pointed toward a far wall (make sure it is far enough so you can adjust your scope parralex to focus on the wall). On the wall I hang a large piece of white poster board and hang a plumb bob over the poster board so the string hangs somewhere near the center of the board. I then "bore sight" the rifle to the string (if using a bi-pod you will probably need to prop up the back of the stock to point to the center of the poster board). I level the rifle left to right on my bench before installing the rings using a level on the top of the pic rail and then make sure it is still pointing at the string on the wall. Make sure the rifle doesn't move after getting it bore sighted and level. I mount the rings and scope (leave the ring caps loose enough to allow the scope to rotate) and then sight through the scope and rotate the scope until the reticle is parallel to the string. As you tighten the ring caps, look throught the scope to make sure the reticle hasn't rotated out of parallel. I tighten one ring cap at a time until the scope can't rotate before moving to the other ring. Hope this helps.
 
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GA_Medic, went shooting Saturday, I like XLR butt stock, feels better shooting. Loved that I could adjust it easier even having use screw driver with 4 Allen bit than messing with the ruger stock. Just my personal opinion.
View attachment 7065597
View attachment 7065598
Changes so far
XLR tactical lite W/ dual conversion plate
Cadex M1 Muzzle break
Seekins Precision Ambi Safety
Catalyst Arms Mag Release Extension
Athlon Ares BTR
Accu-Tac bipod
Pelican Vault V800 case

Still coming, sometime lol
Timney trigger
Spuhr scope mount
Titanium bolt shroud
upgraded bolt handle and bolt knob
Possibly fluted bolt
Possibly Midwest industries hand guard , and hand guard/ lower receiver Cerakote in Tungsten
Nice and just a heads up that the Seekins Ambi Saftey didn't work for me cuz it was not meaty enough to handle the Timney trigger, so keep your original RPR saftey around in case you run into that same issue. The RPR safety will run nicely with the Timney trigger...
 
Chris, think I figured it out, think my scope mount is off ( Aero precision). As I barrow different mount from my friend did everything over again leveled rifle and level it to the plumb bob, and It didn’t appear to look off to me anymore. So just going replace the mount some time soon.
 
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D
Nice and just a heads up that the Seekins Ambi Saftey didn't work for me cuz it was not meaty enough to handle the Timney trigger, so keep your original RPR saftey around in case you run into that same issue. The RPR safety will run nicely with the Timney trigger...
Thanks for heads up which would suck because I like the Seekins Safety. Just curious what you mean by not meaty enough? Not big enough to engage safety due different design between the timney trigger vs stock, or not meaty enough as breaking.
 
I got 2.250

That's a .139 jump with Hornady 140 eld box ammo. I didn't realize the rpr has had such a deep chamber.
Yes it's a massive jump, mine as well I seat my bullets at 2.190 bto because I want them to fit in my mags.

The eld match tho seems to like that big of a jump tho cuz mine shoots lights out even with the big jump to the lands
 
Yes it's a massive jump, mine as well I seat my bullets at 2.190 bto because I want them to fit in my mags.

The eld match tho seems to like that big of a jump tho cuz mine shoots lights out even with the big jump to the lands

Yeah mine doesn't seem to mind either, I was just a bit surprised since the gun was made to run on Pmags.

Thankfully the 140s and 147s don't mind, I imagine trying to run some of their Berger bullets would be a bit more difficult since they're pretty jump sensitive.
 
Something else I noticed!
Yesterday I got bored so I decided to polish the feed ramps into the chamber which brought on a new train of thought, the RPR has M4 style feed ramps so does that create problems when using a single stack IA style Mag due to having the elevated ramp in between the two feed ramps?

I'm going to pick up some AW double stack style mags from Accurate Mag so I can run the longer COAL, I was just curious how they would work with single stacks?
 
Something else I noticed!
Yesterday I got bored so I decided to polish the feed ramps into the chamber which brought on a new train of thought, the RPR has M4 style feed ramps so does that create problems when using a single stack IA style Mag due to having the elevated ramp in between the two feed ramps?

I'm going to pick up some AW double stack style mags from Accurate Mag so I can run the longer COAL, I was just curious how they would work with single stacks?
Good questions, hopefully someone with more experience can answer for us, cuz I have no idea lol
 
D

Thanks for heads up which would suck because I like the Seekins Safety. Just curious what you mean by not meaty enough? Not big enough to engage safety due different design between the timney trigger vs stock, or not meaty enough as breaking.
Yeah, I liked how the red one looked on my rifle too, but it is just too light weight and too thin to engage and flip the safety in the Timney trigger. The OEM fire/safe selector is stout compared and flips the Timney safety with ease.
 
AW double stack mags won't work in a RPR...the action inlet isn't cut far enough forward to allow the flat front of the mag to seat up in the inlet. Since the bolt can handle double stacks (like PMAGS) and the profile is the same as an aics, you could probably get them to work by cutting a crescent shape notch out of the front of the aw mag to match an aics mag so it can interface with the rounded bottom of the action....though you might introduce other issues. AW mags are notoriously finicky in anything but an AI action.
 
AW double stack mags won't work in a RPR...the action inlet isn't cut far enough forward to allow the flat front of the mag to seat up in the inlet. Since the bolt can handle double stacks (like PMAGS) and the profile is the same as an aics, you could probably get them to work by cutting a crescent shape notch out of the front of the aw mag to match an aics mag so it can interface with the rounded bottom of the action....though you might introduce other issues. AW mags are notoriously finicky in anything but an AI action.


Well shit!......
 
Something else I noticed!
Yesterday I got bored so I decided to polish the feed ramps into the chamber which brought on a new train of thought, the RPR has M4 style feed ramps so does that create problems when using a single stack IA style Mag due to having the elevated ramp in between the two feed ramps?

I'm going to pick up some AW double stack style mags from Accurate Mag so I can run the longer COAL, I was just curious how they would work with single stacks?

I run MDT AI style mags in my RPR 6.5 CM and the run fine. Smoother than the PMags.
 
Does anyone know what kind of thread protector barrel cap can go on the gen 2 RPR in 6mm creedmoor? Gotta have one for F class rifle so ... I mean, how about a 1/2-28 barrel cap for an AR15? Like this one?

 
Does anyone know what kind of thread protector barrel cap can go on the gen 2 RPR in 6mm creedmoor? Gotta have one for F class rifle so ... I mean, how about a 1/2-28 barrel cap for an AR15? Like this one?



It's going to be a 5/8x24 heaps of people make them, JP enterprises has some nice ones. You can get them in .750 and .875 outer diameter $15

PS. I just measured the outside diameter at the end of my 6.5 RPR .750 will fit perfect for you.

 
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Does anyone know what kind of thread protector barrel cap can go on the gen 2 RPR in 6mm creedmoor? Gotta have one for F class rifle so ... I mean, how about a 1/2-28 barrel cap for an AR15? Like this one?

Pretty sure it’s 5/8x24
 
Does anyone know what kind of thread protector barrel cap can go on the gen 2 RPR in 6mm creedmoor? Gotta have one for F class rifle so ... I mean, how about a 1/2-28 barrel cap for an AR15? Like this one?


Yes it is 5/8x24. 1/2x28 is mostly .223/5.56
 
Any suggestion for a bore guide for the 6mm creedmoor RPR? I thought the Possum Hollow #4 would work but it isn’t fitting.

I have this one for my .308 and I really like it. They have the 6 CM too

 
Does anyone know what kind of thread protector barrel cap can go on the gen 2 RPR in 6mm creedmoor? Gotta have one for F class rifle so ... I mean, how about a 1/2-28 barrel cap for an AR15? Like this one?


The 223 gen 2s that I bought came with thread protectors in the box. I replaced the brakes with those thread protectors. If you bought it new I think it was supposed to be in the box.

The manual calls it a muzzle cap. On the shopruger.com site they are called thread protectors. The spec sheet for the current 6mm Creedmoor RPR says it is a 5/8-24 thread.
 
My friend wants to use his RPR in F Class competition, and the rule is that you can only load one round at a time and not from a magazine. He says the bolt on his RPR locks back when the mag is empty. Is there a way to make the RPR work for F Class?
 
My friend wants to use his RPR in F Class competition, and the rule is that you can only load one round at a time and not from a magazine. He says the bolt on his RPR locks back when the mag is empty. Is there a way to make the RPR work for F Class?
I don’t have time to look it up myself right now, but 8541 Tactical has a YouTube video where he goes over a number of different mags on the RPR Gen 2. The factory mags cause the bolt to “lock back” when empty, but other mags do not.
 
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My friend wants to use his RPR in F Class competition, and the rule is that you can only load one round at a time and not from a magazine. He says the bolt on his RPR locks back when the mag is empty. Is there a way to make the RPR work for F Class?

It's been quite a while since I read (somewhere around here) that one could make those mags work by filing/grinding of a piece of the mag at the back that keeps the bolt from moving forward when empty. I didn't do this myself as I simply bought a single stack MP mag that allowed the bolt to close when empty.
 
My friend wants to use his RPR in F Class competition, and the rule is that you can only load one round at a time and not from a magazine. He says the bolt on his RPR locks back when the mag is empty. Is there a way to make the RPR work for F Class?

I made a single load follower that slips into the MagPul magazines. It is made from a section of PVC pipe (1 inch, I think). It holds the follwer down and allows the bolt to close. It slips in like a cartridge. See photos below.
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I have question, it’s about mags. I have been using two same MP LR/SR .308 for my RPR , and for 6.5 CM AR-10 I had. Work flawlessly is both guns.
So what’s difference in the AW/MDT, and ACIS mags you guys keep talking about? and make they worth the $70-$90?
Just curious is all
 
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It's been quite a while since I read (somewhere around here) that one could make those mags work by filing/grinding of a piece of the mag at the back that keeps the bolt from moving forward when empty. I didn't do this myself as I simply bought a single stack MP mag that allowed the bolt to close when empty.

the pmags are made for AR, gas rifles so they have a bolt catch on last round. After running the bolt enough, the mag will wear down so it does not stop the bolt, or you can file the bolt catch down, and it will run just fine.
 
I have question, it’s about mags. I have been using two same MP LR/SR .308 for my RPR , and for 6.5 CM AR-10 I had. Work flawlessly is both guns.
So what’s difference in the AW/MDT, and ACIS mags you guys keep talking about? and make they worth the $70-$90?
Just curious is all

The difference is case overall length limitations. I am running steel mags, due to my barrel wearing down. I have to load my rounds much longer to meet the .055 jump that the ELD likes.
 
I like the LR308 bob sled. It takes more travel on the release to get it out of position than the one for AI magwells. I shoot mine prone, slung up, so I figure the harder it is to get out, the less likely I am to do it unintentionally.