Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

What height rings are you guys running with a 50mm obj? I'm looking at the 1.2 or 1.4, on my AT, I have to move the cheekpiece to the right a tad and was thinking on the 1.4 for a better head pos?
 
What height rings are you guys running with a 50mm obj? I'm looking at the 1.2 or 1.4, on my AT, I have to move the cheekpiece to the right a tad and was thinking on the 1.4 for a better head pos?
I used Nightforce ultralight rings in the 1.375 height and they are gtg on cheek weld and scope cap clearance on my ATACR 4-16x50.
 
I have one and it fits great. I had it cerakoted by them too in armor black (did the white inlay myself).

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I have one of these in titanium and they will engrave whatever you want on them.

What I like about this model is the titanium (or aluminum) bolt disassembly tool which is so much more durable than the plastic one from Ruger.


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I have one of these in titanium and they will engrave whatever you want on them.

What I like about this model is the titanium (or aluminum) bolt disassembly tool which is so much more durable than the plastic one from Ruger.


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I have the titanium one without the built in tool on mine. I have all of my necessary tools in the box my scope rings came in.

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I've seen plenty of guys in trouble on the range over the years trying to get their bolts apart to clean out the pierced primer junk from the firing pin that I appreciate the tool ready at hand. It would be nice if more rifles came with some sort of tools integrated into the system somewhere.

Not likely something that plinkers with factory ammo would appreciate, but competitive types running hot loads on a hot day or in the rain tend to find themselves in trouble now and then.
 
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my 1st bolt gun, so im looking to get into the long range game & PRS matches. do u recc the 6mm CM or the 6.5CM? why? what other mods would u suggest?
I went with the 6mm Creedmoor because that is what my local shop had on sale, and I can't complain.

6.5 seems to be far more common with the people I shoot with and for factory ammo.
 
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6.5CM Gen2,
PRS Gen3 buttstock,
Ergo Tactical Deluxe Grip,
Bushnell ERS with H59,
Badger rings,
Badger Bolt Knob,
Accuracy 1st bubble level,
MI 18" Handguard,
Atlas PSR bipod,
CTK Precision magazine release extension.

New ambi safety in the works and possibly the Timney trigger.


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How are you liking that Ergo grip?!
 
since i dont reload, this maybe a better option?
I would assume you will have more options available to you. When I first got my RPR in 6mm I had a hard time finding factory ammo to start with. I forgot to mention earlier too that everything I have read or have been told says the 6mms are barrel burners; I have yet to witness that but I am only at 1,400 rounds. The 6.5s are supposed to be more forgiving as far as barrel life.
 
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Question Gen 2 owners, does anyone have a setup to put a section of pic rail on the handguard at the 12 o'clock position? The rep at Ruger couldn't figure out I had a gen 2 rpr. The holes aren't threaded, so I'm not sure what options are available. Any info is appreciated, thanks.
I know this is 2 years too late, but I just stumbled on your comment. I contacted Samson when I got my Gen 2 and this is what they told me.

For the Gen II RPR, for 12 o’clock mounting:

https://www.samson-mfg.com/evolution-accessory-rail.html

For 3,6 & 9

https://www.samson-mfg.com/keymod-accessory-rail.html

I haven't bought one yet, I don't need it I just prefer the look of the top rail.
 
Went out with the rpr xl yesterday. Factory ammo (cheapest s&b I can find local) runs right at .7 moa. I shot ladders and most everything was sub moa. I had several in the .6-.7 range, and 2 sets under .5. I know it can do better because I usually stack 2 rounds and have one open the group. I guess it's time to buy some lapua brass and see what all the hubbub is about.

and just to through it out there.... Houston in the middle of august is brutal at the range

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Went out with the rpr xl yesterday. Factory ammo (cheapest s&b I can find local) runs right at .7 moa. I shot ladders and most everything was sub moa. I had several in the .6-.7 range, and 2 sets under .5. I know it can do better because I usually stack 2 rounds and have one open the group. I guess it's time to buy some lapua brass and see what all the hubbub is about.

and just to through it out there.... Houston in the middle of august is brutal at the range

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I wouldnt be so sure itll do much better. On 1 hand I would be thrilled with anything sub MOA with the "Cheapest S&B" you could find. But on the other hand, its a 3 shot group. I would bet those groups to be bigger with 5 shots and cheap ammo. If it shoots consistently . 5-.6" 5 shot groups with quality handloads than I think you would be getting about the most you should expect for a production rifle with all factory parts. Ive upgraded everthing on my RPR except the barrel and while I am occasionally rewarded with a .3-.4" group, its really a .5-.7" rifle when I do my part. A new Proof tube would probably narrow that but Im not that disciplined and a Proof barrel costs as much as the rifle did new.
 
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I have the enhanced RPR with the smooth top rail on the forend. Does anyone know who makes a screw on 1913 rail that will mount on the factory hand Guard?i have night vision coming and need a place to clip it on the forward rail. Really don’t want to change handguards out yet.

This is straight from Sampson for a Gen 2 with Keymod

For the Gen II RPR, for 12 o’clock mounting:

https://www.samson-mfg.com/evolution-accessory-rail.html
 
Yea I’m not aware of anyone that makes a chunk of rail to match the contour of the top of the factory Gen 2 handguard. You could try to find something close but then you also gotta worry about hole spacing. Samson makes a direct replacement handguard that used the factory barrel nut for like $150. Probably cheapest and easiest option. That or find someone trying to sell a gen 3 mlok takeoff on flebay or something like that

This is straight from Sampson for a Gen 2 with Keymod

For the Gen II RPR, for 12 o’clock mounting:

https://www.samson-mfg.com/evolution-accessory-rail.html
 
Mine was shooting half moa till about 2700 rounds.

I'm now at 3018 rounds and it's struggling to hold an inch group @ 100 yards.

I just got a borescope I'll post some pics tonight of how burnt out my throat is ?

Yup . . . sounds like it's time for a new barrel there. Getting 2700 rounds down a 6.5CM and holding 1/2 MOA is pretty good.

Of course, just how long the barrel is going to last has a lot to do with how hot the loads are. If one is running hot loads, one should expect a lot less than 2700.

My .308 factory barrel has 3700 rounds and still getting sub 1/2 MOA. . . . though I haven't run very many "hot" loads through it and my loads are typically medium/mild. The lands has moved .023 and I'm loading long.
 
Yup . . . sounds like it's time for a new barrel there. Getting 2700 rounds down a 6.5CM and holding 1/2 MOA is pretty good.

Of course, just how long the barrel is going to last has a lot to do with how hot the loads are. If one is running hot loads, one should expect a lot less than 2700.

My .308 factory barrel has 3700 rounds and still getting sub 1/2 MOA. . . . though I haven't run very many "hot" loads through it and my loads are typically medium/mild. The lands has moved .023 and I'm loading long.
I am running 42.6 of rl16 and a 140eld in hornady brass think I am right at 2700fps with that load in my rpr
 
I am running 42.6 of rl16 and a 140eld in hornady brass think I am right at 2700fps with that load in my rpr

Running some numbers through QuickLoad app and it appears you're not even close to 2700 fps, but more like 2850 -2980 (may not be quite right in that COAL or seating depth is not known). That 42.6 gr of RL16 is at or over 100% case capacity and it's a pretty hot load. This would seem to explain what you're experiencing in that with 2700 rounds down the barrel, and so, I'd say your barrel is simply done and you need to get a new one to get back you accuracy. You might want to take it to a gunsmith to see if what I'm saying might be true.
 
Running some numbers through QuickLoad app and it appears you're not even close to 2700 fps, but more like 2850 -2980 (may not be quite right in that COAL or seating depth is not known). That 42.6 gr of RL16 is at or over 100% case capacity and it's a pretty hot load. This would seem to explain what you're experiencing in that with 2700 rounds down the barrel, and so, I'd say your barrel is simply done and you need to get a new one to get back you accuracy. You might want to take it to a gunsmith to see if what I'm saying might be true.
Damn unless my chrono is way off I dunno?
Caldwell cheapo chronograph could be the culprit but I don't think I'm anywhere near those speeds.

It is a compressed load but I don't have pressure signs with the load.

Another interesting thing is in my 24" mpa barrel I'm running 41.6 of rl 16 and I'm about 2760fps, again according to my chrono.

My ruger barrel is Def shot out I'll. Post some pics of the bore shortly.
 
Damn unless my chrono is way off I dunno?
Caldwell cheapo chronograph could be the culprit but I don't think I'm anywhere near those speeds.

It is a compressed load but I don't have pressure signs with the load.

Another interesting thing is in my 24" mpa barrel I'm running 41.6 of rl 16 and I'm about 2760fps, again according to my chrono.

My ruger barrel is Def shot out I'll. Post some pics of the bore shortly.

Hmmm, could be the Chrono . . .???

BTW, I see I had a typo in the velocity range I wrote. The upper end I meant was supposed to be 2880 fps. . . not 2980. And note that QuickLoad was showing pressure just under 60,000 psi. So at that pressure, I too don't often see pressure signs in my .308 hot loads either (though I seldom load them that way). . . . but it IS "hot".
 
Hmmm, could be the Chrono . . .???

BTW, I see I had a typo in the velocity range I wrote. The upper end I meant was supposed to be 2880 fps. . . not 2980. And note that QuickLoad was showing pressure just under 60,000 psi. So at that pressure, I too don't often see pressure signs in my .308 hot loads either (though I seldom load them that way). . . . but it IS "hot".
I need to get that app, Ididnt realize the rpr load was so hot lol. I figured I had a super slow barrel but maybe my chrono is way off..
I think I was seating the ruger loads about. 30 off the lands

I'm actually cleaning the ruger barrel right now before I scope it.
I'm. Using bore tech on this barrel for the first time and Holy shit is a bunch of copper coming out. Maybe it's partly to blame for my slow speeds lol ?‍♂️
 
Just got done scrubbin the shit outta my barrel. Here are some pics of what the stock 6.5 creedmoor barrel looks like after 3k+ rounds.

Still shoots an inch @ 100 despite the throat being totally burnt out LOL :poop:
 

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Just got done scrubbin the shit outta my barrel. Here are some pics of what the stock 6.5 creedmoor barrel looks like after 3k+ rounds.

Still shoots an inch @ 100 despite the throat being totally burnt out LOL :poop:

Yeah (lol), that throat is pretty charred. Though firecracking is normal to see . . . it depends on how far into the barrel it goes that can tell you something.

A little while back an "old timer" (like me) mentioned how he had a rifle barrel with only 4" of rifling left at the muzzle end and it still shot somewhat accurately; the point being that one can still, to some extent, hit a target with such a barrel, just not with much precision.

It seems to me that you did good getting 2700 rounds out of a 6.5 with such hot loads (even if it's a little less, whenever you actually started loosing precision).
 
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