So what is the Care Club? Is that the name of something? I find pet care (club) but not about this.
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Let Me Google That
For all those people that find it more convenient to bother you with their question than to google it for themselves.
FYI. I did Google it. Re-read it. I told you how it came up. I’m interested, that’s why I asked.Let Me Google That
For all those people that find it more convenient to bother you with their question than to google it for themselves.letmegooglethat.com
I did figure out that I had made that mistake. Was at a golf tournament and doing it on my phone. Totally my mistake. Thx
…using your Ruger Precision Clubs, no doubt.
Lol. Up at 3am home at 9pm. I must have been a bit cross eyed
I'm also looking at cases for folding stocks. I have the MDT Chassis and folder with a 3" muzzle break. Until recently I was driving a miata to the range so space was limited. I Think for now I will be working with a softcase. I have a few more details to work out on the buttstock before making a hardcase.
Hope all have a great week with the Rugers!
Hope all have a great week with the Rugers!
Got tired of waiting for the TriggerTech triggers to become available other than through Ruger Custom. I wonder what’s up with that? Ordered a Timney on Gunbroker for $190 and installed in on one of my RPR’s (338 Lapua). It ‘ll be a couple of weeks before I can try it out, based on a couple of dry-fire tests I think I’m going to be happy compared to the factory trigger.
Anyone run a vert grip on their RPR, like the MDT Vertical grip elite?
I used the vert grip on the MPA CZ 455 chassis, and like it.
I used the vert grip on the MPA CZ 455 chassis, and like it.
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what brand is the grip? I only found 1 vertical grip but it doesn't look like yours
Go to Anarchy Outdoors and go under the RPR section. Look for a Penguin Grip.
Penguin Vertical Grip
They also have several other vertical grips for the RPR. However, at the time I purchased my grip that was the only one offered. They have since expanded The number of offerings.
As always NDIH!
I hope someone can give me a suggestion on how to loosen the the screws on the hand guard of my RPR. I have broken 3 torx bits.
Did you try a bit of heat? Is this HG factory stock? Put a Seekins RPR HG on mine 6 years ago, so I do not remember
I bought a chef's flame off Amazon a couple of years ago to use on things like this. Not as hot as MAPP gas but still does heat up small areas.
Before heat, try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF (transmission fluid). Mix it up and use a few small drops each. Mechanics secret, better than PB Blaster.
Dang Bro, thats crazy. glad you got it loose. If anyone cares, one of the things I DONT like about the new MDT LSS chassis is that the mag release pin has to be removed to get to the action screw, as in I just want to make sure its tight, but now I gotta deal with tiny pieces stuff - So that's a thing, for me at least yay...
Another thing you can try in the future is just get a soldering iron. the $25 ones have adjustable heating element. You can then waste time dimpling polished terds with crappy triggers.
Another thing you can try in the future is just get a soldering iron. the $25 ones have adjustable heating element. You can then waste time dimpling polished terds with crappy triggers.
Go with the APA Fat Bastard Gen 3. It worked great for me.
I shot the Ruger RAP this weekend. I need proper rear bags but I was able to get on at 600/750 and 1k. It really needs a proper scope but I'm saving for that. The SWFA is zeroed at 750 and with mid grade barnes handloads I was able to pepper the upper torso of steel silhouette plate. At 600 I was able to do down the plate line to 4" and only missing the 2" (I will attribute that to wind). Anyway just an update from a happy well worn in Ruger build.
Pic added - the straps didn't work like I expected but I have more box mods in mind - haha...
Pic added - the straps didn't work like I expected but I have more box mods in mind - haha...
Its the same action as the RPR and I like this better anyway. Its another build option for those that prefer the Ruger actions (RPR) over the so so Remington.
The poverty pony(Anderson build) was my 2nd AR build and it shoots out to 1k and stays zeroed at 600 and is the backup gun.
I just made a HEAVY rear rest with fine dial micro adjustments. We will see how she runs.
Have a great week!
The poverty pony(Anderson build) was my 2nd AR build and it shoots out to 1k and stays zeroed at 600 and is the backup gun.
I just made a HEAVY rear rest with fine dial micro adjustments. We will see how she runs.
Have a great week!
I actually love the round. A flat LD shooter for sure. I took an unused AR and replaced the barrel and the bolt and had a "new" rifle.
Just chuckled at the name posted.
It’s a great starter rifle. Tune the trigger to 2.5 pounds or so, put an effective muzzle brake on it, shoot a forgiving bullet like a eld and have fun.
The only similarities are the three lug bolt head. The bolts are different but the bolt head is similar.
I am going to start posting about my Ruger MKIII pistol here. It has the same letters on it as the RPR - R U G E R....
How precise are the Mloks/handguard machined on RPR? Considering one to use with a picatinny mounted Charlie Tarac. But then the picatinny attached to the Mlok needs to be level with the scope.
Crow tates good with BBQ sauce...
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Function wise they are both bolt action firearms but as they are different models with a different design they are not interchangeable with each other.
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Hi All.. weird question. Able to shoot 4-5 inch groups at anything from 3-600 yards with my RPR.. despite this, it is impossible for me to hit with the same consistence between 1-200 yards with a 100 yard zero. Had several PRS guys set up my scope, and shoot it as well. so this issue is not marksmanship, totally inconsistent.
RPR in 308, Viper 5-25x FFP, with vortex matched precision scope rings here. Ammo was pmc 147 grain (which I know isn’t great. Muzzle velocity on average is 2725 fps. Any ideas?
RPR in 308, Viper 5-25x FFP, with vortex matched precision scope rings here. Ammo was pmc 147 grain (which I know isn’t great. Muzzle velocity on average is 2725 fps. Any ideas?
Try a different scope, a different round, give the barrel a good cleaning, (clean to the steel) and after cleaning have the bore scoped for irregularities, Do things one at a time.
How long have you had it. I suggested earlier in this thread that the first thing anyone should do with an RPR is completely take it apart. Clean it and reassemble with proper torque values. The factory way way way over torques everything, especially the barrel.
This^^^^^^^^^
Then try Federal GMM 168 or 175 grain.
Hand load 44 grain Varget, Lapua case, 210M primer, 175 SMK.
It should shoot fairly well.
Always gotta keep in mind that with factory barrels, it's hit or miss . . . that is, it's a crap shoot whether or not you get a good shooting barrel or not.
You didn't say how many rounds you've fired through your factory barrel, as it might take a couple hundred for it to settle in. The quality of your ammo will also make a difference. Frankly, I feel the 147 PMC ammo isn't one of those.
I've learned to scope the bores to keep an eye on what going on inside. When I got my 6.5 PRC, I scoped it the day I got it and found that the chamber was poorly cut and I was having issues with the bolts performance. I shot a few rounds and couldn't really tell if there was an effect or not. I called Ruger and sent them pictures of the issue in the bore. They had me send them the gun and they decided to replace the gun with another new one. When I got this one, I scoped it and the chamber and bore looked much better as was the function of the bolt.
With my two RPR's (.308, 6.5 PRC) with their factory barrels, I got ~ .75 MOA consistently using factory ammo (like Federal match grade 168's and 175's), and with a Viper 4-16X50 FFP on the .308. Because the reticle on this scope was so thick, I switched to a Diamondback Tactical 6-24X50 which has a much thinner reticle and that helped with a slight improvement getting jut under .75 MOA with said factory ammo. After developing a good hand load for the .308 with 168 and 175 SMK's and setting the trigger to as light as possible, I was a get just over .5 MOA consistently. Note too that I was shooting off a Caldwell front shooting rest and rear bag. Since then, I've upgraded a few things (e.g. barrel, the RPR rear rest and rear bag, trigger, shoot rest components) and can consistently get under .5 MOA, often well under that. One more thing I'm going to try to see if I get some move improvement is to lap the lugs. Am on my 3rd barrel and now have over 10,000 rounds fired on the bolt and the spring may be or may become an issue.
If you're not hand loading and want to compare how your RPR stacks up to other owners, you might want to use some premium ammo, like Federal Premium 168's, to see how that might compare.
I hope this all gives you some ideas.
I just got one of the custom RPR and was hesitant at first because I knew it was just looks that improved on.
That is until I shot it next to a gen 1 Rpr. The customs are worth the extra money in my book.
Trigger is better, Mag well is better, bolt was smoother and felt like a custom action and I like the 26 inch match barrel not I can tell that it is better but sounds good,
That is until I shot it next to a gen 1 Rpr. The customs are worth the extra money in my book.
Trigger is better, Mag well is better, bolt was smoother and felt like a custom action and I like the 26 inch match barrel not I can tell that it is better but sounds good,
How are owners of the 338LM RPRs finding them? Seems a reasonably "cheap" way to get into the longer ranges, 1500yd+
I have an RPR that I re-barreled to a 243 AI.
What I am finding is that after fire forming, the top receiver lug is leaving a small scratch on the brass (~ 1/8 inch down from the shoulder) on extraction. If I run the bolt quickly, then it doesn't leave the scratch, just a couple of small marks.
I was thinking about just polishing up the sharp edge on the receiver lug to fix this as well. Used my bore scope to find the edge that was causing it.
Anyone see a problem with polishing up the receiver lug? Also anyone else seen this on a 243 AI?
What I am finding is that after fire forming, the top receiver lug is leaving a small scratch on the brass (~ 1/8 inch down from the shoulder) on extraction. If I run the bolt quickly, then it doesn't leave the scratch, just a couple of small marks.
I was thinking about just polishing up the sharp edge on the receiver lug to fix this as well. Used my bore scope to find the edge that was causing it.
Anyone see a problem with polishing up the receiver lug? Also anyone else seen this on a 243 AI?
Looking at TriggerTech's listing for their trigger that is "coming soon" they have two models:
Diamond Pull Weight: 1st stage: <4 to 20 oz / 2nd stage: <4 to 24 oz
Special Pull Weight: 1st stage: 8 to 24 oz / 2nd stage: 8 to 32 oz
For you guys that are looking at these triggers - what model are you going to buy?
Diamond Pull Weight: 1st stage: <4 to 20 oz / 2nd stage: <4 to 24 oz
Special Pull Weight: 1st stage: 8 to 24 oz / 2nd stage: 8 to 32 oz
For you guys that are looking at these triggers - what model are you going to buy?
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