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Thanks for the info. I've browsed the scout site a bit, but not about this rifle specifically. I'll go check it out. I'm sure these rifles would be great to grow into!
They moved some (like the stickys) but it has do be done by hand. the scout platform is not compatible with this platform so there is no simple copy and paste of the data. that's why LowLight selected the important stuff and did that work, but he is certainly not going to manually do every single thread. if you have you one you find valuable, im pretty sure there is a place under bear pit titled articles and he can bring it and contain it there, or you can copy and paste into a new thread.
My RPR has the smoothest cycling both and action that I have had or felt which includes some very nice custom builds. It cycles so smoothly that it took a while to not think that I had short cycled the bolt and missed a round. While it started out a bit rough it settled down quickly. Maybe I was lucky, maybe the penetrating lube but I am extremely happy with the function of this rifle. Soon to do the barrel swap to the Proof carbon fiber. I hope the loss of almost 2lbs doesn't change the recoil impulse too much.
Are you talking about bluprinting the action and bolt? I don't think it's necessary on a RPR.
I started long distance shooting over a year ago with a rem 700 sps varmint in .308. It shot just under 1 moa with factory 168 smk and junk Remington trigger and stock that came with it. Changed the stock to a magpul hunter 700 and the trigger to a timney 2 stage and now shoots through 1 hole at 100 yards. Most people blueprint the action and bolt but I felt the rifle didn't need it. I now have a 6.5 RPR as well and this rifle out of the box doesn't need anything done to it. Just get good optics and shoot. I suggest starting with a .308 as factory match rounds are plentiful and cheaper than 6.5. You can rebarrel later.
Just my .02
Yah, that is what I was inquiring after, thanks. I am leaning 6.5 because I recently finished my Mega build in that caliber, and assume it's easier to reload for one round to start, and hear nothing but good things about the 6.5.
6.5 has better bc than .308. Don't get me wrong I still love my remy but I think 6.5 is the future especially with factory match loads for 6.5 becoming more available. It's definitely easier to reload for the same round but each rifle will be different on what load works the best for them. As for the RPR action most don't like the "zipper" feel it has out of the box so they polish the bolt or have it microslicked. It doesn't bother me plus I think it will wear away over time and use.
Went to the range this weekend, ETTS in Dallas. Absolutely loved shooting the RPR. The range only goes to 1200 but it was effective at that range with no issues. Actually the only thing that held back any results was weather (very foggy with light to medium rain) and my scope (Vortex PST 4-16x with MOA EBR1). Holdover would have been a little better with a different reticle and the magnification was ok at 16x but obviously a higher magnification would have been better. My plans are to get a higher mag scope (Vortex PST Gen 2 probably or perhaps the Razor HD Gen II) with MRAD, but it was still an incredible experience.
I had never shot at the distance before (Prior USMC and 800 yards was the farthest I'd shot and that was with Iron Signs
) Amazing how long it takes the sounds of the impact to reach you.
Loved shooting and can't wait to go again.
I had never shot at the distance before (Prior USMC and 800 yards was the farthest I'd shot and that was with Iron Signs
) Amazing how long it takes the sounds of the impact to reach you.Loved shooting and can't wait to go again.
^ Lucky bastard. I wish I could get past 1000 yards but that's all I have available to me. I guess most people don't even have that, so I do count my blessings. And yes, waiting for that "ping" coming back to you from long range is awesome!
I live in the DFW area, Frisco to be exact, and I know of only two ranges that have long distance. There may be more but these are the only ones I know: ETTS and Outback precision. I believe Outback goes out to 2400 yds of KD. ETTS is great though, really great place. I have not been to Outback but after my experience I may not even try them since I liked everyone at ETTS so much.
Now to get a new scope....I purchased the one I had because frankly I got a steal on it. But the higher magnification and going to Mils would be a big benefit. Frankly I just need more trigger time. I'll be doing a lot of dry firing at home and then get out soon I hope to the range again.
Great rifle and very happy with it.
My recent review of the Timney Two Stage trigger for the RPR (complete with Dvorak TriggerScan graphs) is now up over at TTAG:
https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2...mney-two-stage-trigger-ruger-precision-rifle/
Executive summary: shut up and take my money.
And a big shout out to Hide regulars George A and Keith from Spokane for helping out with the process! Thanks guys.
LKB
https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2...mney-two-stage-trigger-ruger-precision-rifle/
Executive summary: shut up and take my money.
And a big shout out to Hide regulars George A and Keith from Spokane for helping out with the process! Thanks guys.
LKB
If you ever make it to Vegas, you can shoot mine. But we are looking for a new canyon now so that we can get targets up past the 1000yds we have now. I guess we all want to find the limits of the gun/round/shooter. We added to the fun by reducing all our targets at all ranges to 1 MOA for prone shooting. Yes, that's a 12" target at 1000yds. The RPR does it well. -G
Lefty, I ordered all the reloading stuff from Brownells yesterday. I can't wait to play with it all. I have some Nosler RDFs, IMR 4451, and the Norma brass from the prime I've been shooting to work with. To tell the truth though, I'll be sorry to give up the Prime in the short run. It's insanely accurate and if I can hand load as good as the prime, I'll be happy, but I have to get the cost down and I really want to try the RDFs way past 1000... -G
Just got a Gen 2 in .308 and ordered a bunch of goodies for it. Proof barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor, Timney flat trigger, Heathen muzzle brake, Seekins rail, and a Leupold Mark 8 3.5-25 (still waiting for them to ship next month). After getting it all and putting it together I love the trigger and how the Proof barrel balances, but I actually like the factory rail better, so I'm sticking with it. Just sent it in to be Cerakoted. Will post photos when it's all done. Can't wait to start using it.
The factory muzzle brake on my Gen II RPR is mounted slightly crooked and i'd like to straighten it out if not a big deal. It only needs to be tightened about 5 degrees to be straight.
Question, Is the factory muzzle brake on the RPR a two piece design (brake and nut separate) or all one monolithic assembly?
If you have had to realign yours, was it as simple as loosening the nut, rotating the front portion of the brake 5 degrees to straighten, and then re-tightening the nut (i. e., two-piece design). Or is the nut and brake all one assembly and I need to try to turn the nut and muzzle brake another 5 degrees by simply tightening the nut?
For what it's worth, I can see there is still a bit of space remaining between the base of the nut and the shoulder of the barrel so it should be able to turn tighter... unless I am thread limited and it physically cannot be turned anymore.
What say you?
Question, Is the factory muzzle brake on the RPR a two piece design (brake and nut separate) or all one monolithic assembly?
If you have had to realign yours, was it as simple as loosening the nut, rotating the front portion of the brake 5 degrees to straighten, and then re-tightening the nut (i. e., two-piece design). Or is the nut and brake all one assembly and I need to try to turn the nut and muzzle brake another 5 degrees by simply tightening the nut?
For what it's worth, I can see there is still a bit of space remaining between the base of the nut and the shoulder of the barrel so it should be able to turn tighter... unless I am thread limited and it physically cannot be turned anymore.
What say you?
Kirium, that's awesome. 2400 yards is one badass piece of real estate! Try a look through an SWFA. I put my first one on my RPR. Awesome quality for the price.
G, thanks for the invite but I don't want to be embarrassed by your 1/2 MOA shooting at 1000 haha. It's awesome you got all your reloading supplies. Prime is awesome, but you'll be amazed at what your reloads can do when they're fully developed. Remember even match anmo is massed produced, so differences in OAL and weight are still plentiful. I'm easily outshooting the match ammo I used to spend $32/box on for less than half the cost. I think you'll be very pleased.
G, thanks for the invite but I don't want to be embarrassed by your 1/2 MOA shooting at 1000 haha. It's awesome you got all your reloading supplies. Prime is awesome, but you'll be amazed at what your reloads can do when they're fully developed. Remember even match anmo is massed produced, so differences in OAL and weight are still plentiful. I'm easily outshooting the match ammo I used to spend $32/box on for less than half the cost. I think you'll be very pleased.
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Got a chance to load some handloads on a buddy's press and shoot them and I am more excited about the potential of me and the RPR. I loaded a once fired winchester case with 40gr of IMR 4350 and used a 140 grain A-Max boolit set .30 off of the lands and I shot 2 groups under a 1/2 moa at 100yards.
Here is one of the groups before I got fully re-zeroed.
Here is one of the groups before I got fully re-zeroed.
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Nice job Big! I love the accuracy of this rifle. I've actually started to shoot a lot more ten round groups than five round just because between this rifle and decent handloads accuracy is just stupid good
This is the best I ever shot with mine. 5 rounds bench, Harris bipod, rear bag. I think the spread was .177". Mostly it shoots .4 - .6 MOA
This is the best I ever shot with mine. 5 rounds bench, Harris bipod, rear bag. I think the spread was .177". Mostly it shoots .4 - .6 MOA
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Thanks! Cause I'm quite sure that even with handloads I'll never shoot a 1 again lol
The local shop guy had one, so i put a deposit on it, went to go pick it up a couple days later and he sold that rifle to another guy as i walked it the building... i was super pissed!! So i refunded my money and never went back there, now i shoot a tikka t3 ctr in 308.
I will read this thread as i enjoy the look of a tacticool rifle and neat to see all the good groups people are getting
I will read this thread as i enjoy the look of a tacticool rifle and neat to see all the good groups people are getting
Any of you guys compete with your RPR's? I shot a match last weekend with my 6.5 it worked flawlessly but obviously was very heavy for a tactical match.
Many people including myself use them in our local matches. They do well. It's lighter than my custom build and most others and once the Proof Research barrel goes oin it it will be close to 2lbs lighter still. Maybe almost too light.
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The local shop guy had one, so i put a deposit on it, went to go pick it up a couple days later and he sold that rifle to another guy as i walked it the building... i was super pissed!! So i refunded my money and never went back there, now i shoot a tikka t3 ctr in 308.
I will read this thread as i enjoy the look of a tacticool rifle and neat to see all the good groups people are getting
That sucks and I would be super pissed too. I have an RPR and love it but I have shifted my focus to my new love of a Tikka T3X as well. I like the feel of the RPR so much I had to transformed my Tikka into the attached photo. Who said you can't love two wemon!
Pell,
My break was the same way. It does use a jam nut and mine looked like it could go farther but no dice. It was also way tighter than the 15 ft.lbs Ruger said it was. They just threaded the nut all the way on then torqued the hell outa the brake.
I had to put mine in a barrel vice, use a 7/8 wrench on the nut, and a drift punch through the brake. I'm 6'5" and 240 and can lift a lot more than a cheeseburger but still had to use a cheater on the punch. Hope yours isn't like mine was, good luck.
My break was the same way. It does use a jam nut and mine looked like it could go farther but no dice. It was also way tighter than the 15 ft.lbs Ruger said it was. They just threaded the nut all the way on then torqued the hell outa the brake.
I had to put mine in a barrel vice, use a 7/8 wrench on the nut, and a drift punch through the brake. I'm 6'5" and 240 and can lift a lot more than a cheeseburger but still had to use a cheater on the punch. Hope yours isn't like mine was, good luck.
Hagen, thanks a lot for above info. I will go at it with this in mind and see where it takes me. Thanks again!
Thats right! Sounds like i need another rifle LOL I get .6" groups for an average with my stock tikka. I like the new T3x TAC A1 alot too... but i still try to find rugars out and about to maybe trade for one.
Hiya Gents, a buddy of mine is looking to get his first precision rifle and after discussion between a T3 and RPR, he appears the have decided on the RPR in 6.5cm. Does anyone have a lead on them in stock? He's found a few online for the old high retail pricing, but I'm confident they're out there in th $1k range (or better) vs the $1300 or so I'm finding.
So any suggestions on where to hunt him one up? Thanks in advance
So any suggestions on where to hunt him one up? Thanks in advance
Just out of curiosity, how many times are you guys reloading your brass? I'm going on 10 times now with the .308 Nosler CC with no signs of stopping soon
I have chucked two that had loose primer pockets, and two others that were too sticky going in and out of the shell holder. But still that's out of like 70 casings where the rest are just fine. For now..
I've got 6.5 Hornady brass that is 14 times fired on 1/2 of my batch. I had 5 of 200 with loose primer pockets at 7 times fired. Everything else is still going strong. I cut a 13 times fired in half and it still looked good. No ring of death in sight.
The bottom is 7X and the top is 13X.
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Nice comparison. Thanks for posting that. Might buzz one of mine open and take a look
There used to be a tool that let you swage primer pockets toght again on brass that was otherwise usable, could get another 5-6 reloads out of them if they weren't being overworked in a tight die/sloppy chamber. I'll see if I can dig it up and post it.
Please do. That would be great to have as I anneal all my brass and bump the shoulder back 0.002". Sucks to go through so much work on brass by neck turning, trimming, chamfer the primer holes, uniform primer pockets only the throw away after 9-10 firings because of loose primer pockets.
Has anyone fluted the bolt on their RPR? Or had any other gunsmithing work done?
I'm not sure if I'd do it, but I'm curious if anyone has.
it seems on a bolt action rifle, the only reason to truly flute a bolt is mainly for cosmetics and they do look good, but it shouldn't be heat dissipation as I can't see the bolt heating up that much. You'd have to be going very fast.
Anyway, has anyone done it? Can it damage or lesson performance? Any gunsmithing work that would be a benefit?
I'm not sure if I'd do it, but I'm curious if anyone has.
it seems on a bolt action rifle, the only reason to truly flute a bolt is mainly for cosmetics and they do look good, but it shouldn't be heat dissipation as I can't see the bolt heating up that much. You'd have to be going very fast.
Anyway, has anyone done it? Can it damage or lesson performance? Any gunsmithing work that would be a benefit?
From what I know, fluting can shave weight and it also increases the surface area of the barrel so that it cools faster. I've had rifles with fluted barrels and I personally didn't really notice much of a difference.
Edit: My bad. The BOLT. Again it can shave weight off, but mostly cosmetic. Like jeweled or anything else. My Mossberg MVP had one. It was pretty nice. I'm not sure that it would harm performance. I also didn't really have to do any extra cleaning or anything like that. But that's because the bolt was coated black in between flutes. I guess if it was all polished you may wanna get in there.
Edit: My bad. The BOLT. Again it can shave weight off, but mostly cosmetic. Like jeweled or anything else. My Mossberg MVP had one. It was pretty nice. I'm not sure that it would harm performance. I also didn't really have to do any extra cleaning or anything like that. But that's because the bolt was coated black in between flutes. I guess if it was all polished you may wanna get in there.
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SOB. Just getting ready to shoot long range again and we are getting 18" - 24" of snow. Which would be fine if my car would drive through that or they plowed. This is why I wish my range allowed steel! Oh well. I still have the bench.
Kirium, I have seen a fluted RPR bolt on the Facebook Ruger Precision Rifle page (closed group that you have to join, but they allow anyone who asks to join). I am not sure who did it or his reason. I do know the bolt was not "fully" fluted due to the geometry of the bolt. There were just sections of the bolt fluted.
Hope this helps.
I can second this. I've seen the images but don't remember who did it. Personally I don't see the benefit fluting a RPR bolt but that's just my 2 cents. I guess there could be less drag on the bolt after fluting.
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