Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[LongRangeLefty]

^ I was assuming top to bottom

 

[DannC]

Looks like I'll be making another call to Ruger...on the 9th stage of the club match yesterday, my bolt decided to come apart inside my rifle. It ran flawless through 80 rounds and 8 stages, but on the 9th stage, the bolt literally came apart. The bolt shroud came off and the firing pin somehow twisted inside the bolt enough to let itself come loose. And before anybody says I put it together wrong, I haven't taken the bolt apart from the factory other than to swap the bolt shroud after the first one broke. So if the bolt was put together wrong, I wasn't the one who did it...

 

[DannC]

Looks like I'll be making another call to Ruger...on the 9th stage of the club match yesterday, my bolt decided to come apart inside my rifle. It ran flawless through 80 rounds and 8 stages, but on the 9th stage, the bolt literally came apart. The bolt shroud came off and the firing pin somehow twisted inside the bolt enough to let itself come loose. And before anybody says I put it together wrong, I haven't taken the bolt apart from the factory other than to swap the bolt shroud after the first one broke. So if the bolt was put together wrong, I wasn't the one who did it...

I am interested in what Ruger has to say about your bolt coming apart.
I had dissembled my bolt after 380 rds. for cleaning and appeared that reassembly was correct. Was at the range yesterday to test some old and new ammo. Opened the butt stock, inserted bolt and closed butt stock. Immediately opened the bolt and it disembled itself with loss of the 'Ejector/Firing Pin Back Pin". I am not claiming that I did not do something wrong. I had watched several YT videos and assumed it was correct.
Just curious if they offer anything that should be routinely inspected and how to test bolt assembly before reinserting bolt into the rifle.
Called Ruger and they are shipping me a new pin at no charge. I asked the CS helping me if this was some what common as she immediately knew what part I was needing. She responded that it had happened but was not frequent.

Thanks DannC

 

[britneymadz]

I am interested in what Ruger has to say about your bolt coming apart.
I had dissembled my bolt after 380 rds. for cleaning and appeared that reassembly was correct. Was at the range yesterday to test some old and new ammo. Opened the butt stock, inserted bolt and closed butt stock. Immediately opened the bolt and it disembled itself with loss of the 'Ejector/Firing Pin Back Pin". I am not claiming that I did not do something wrong. I had watched several YT videos and assumed it was correct.
Just curious if they offer anything that should be routinely inspected and how to test bolt assembly before reinserting bolt into the rifle.
Called Ruger and they are shipping me a new pin at no charge. I asked the CS helping me if this was some what common as she immediately knew what part I was needing. She responded that it had happened but was not a frequent.

Thanks DannC

So far I haven't heard anything other than getting confirmation that they received my rifle. Hopefully they get it figured out soon and let me know.

 

[ViP]

^ I was assuming top to bottom

Would having a total of 40 MOA (base plus mount) cause any type of issues with getting a 100Y zero, shooting at an incline/decline or anything? Thanks.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ Nope. But I recommend getting a laser for getting your 100 yard zero. With a cant like that, it’s easier than using a bore sight or starting at very close range

 

[DannC]

Thanks Shooter405 I am curious if they offer an explaination and if so could it be related to my problem. Did you try to reassemble at the range? I did not know this part was missing until I got home and looked at the exploded view. None of the videos I have watched even mention this part and I am not brave/dumb enough to try and remove the extractor or ejector.
Let us know what you find out as it could save someone else having a bad day at the range.

 

[Dog]

I am interested in what Ruger has to say about your bolt coming apart.
I had dissembled my bolt after 380 rds. for cleaning and appeared that reassembly was correct. Was at the range yesterday to test some old and new ammo. Opened the butt stock, inserted bolt and closed butt stock. Immediately opened the bolt and it disembled itself with loss of the 'Ejector/Firing Pin Back Pin". I am not claiming that I did not do something wrong. I had watched several YT videos and assumed it was correct.
Just curious if they offer anything that should be routinely inspected and how to test bolt assembly before reinserting bolt into the rifle.
Called Ruger and they are shipping me a new pin at no charge. I asked the CS helping me if this was some what common as she immediately knew what part I was needing. She responded that it had happened but was not frequent.

Thanks DannC

I have done that before to. It is from reassembling it wrong.

 

[Drewdemon]

Anyone buy bulk (500) bullets from Midway USA? I bought them (140g ELD-M) to make sure i would get the same lot. When they arrived the packaging was not Hornady and i asked them about it pertaining to lot numbers. They said: "I am sorry but we are not able to verify that bulk packaged bullets such as these will all be from the same lot. However, the nature of how we package them- one lot at a time and the large number of bullets in a single make the chances of receiving bullets from different lots very slim." . Should i take them at their word? How does everyone else buy bulk?

 

[DannC]

Any details of what we did wrong? What not to do?

 

[flyright]

Anyone buy bulk (500) bullets from Midway USA? I bought them (140g ELD-M) to make sure i would get the same lot. When they arrived the packaging was not Hornady and i asked them about it pertaining to lot numbers. They said: "I am sorry but we are not able to verify that bulk packaged bullets such as these will all be from the same lot. However, the nature of how we package them- one lot at a time and the large number of bullets in a single make the chances of receiving bullets from different lots very slim." . Should i take them at their word? How does everyone else buy bulk?

Weigh and measure a few - mine varied by as much as 2 grains and .02 ogive - way off what I see in a single lot. So, I called Midway and they told me that a B beside the product # indicates "bulk". I returned them. Ordered 500 from Brownells and got 5 (shrink wrapped together) Hornady 100 rd boxes with matching lot numbers. Cost me about $5 more IIRC....

 

[ChrisH56]

Any details of what we did wrong? What not to do?

If you are talking about the bolt disassembling itself inside the rifle, the problem I had was caused by the firing pin assembly not being fully seated in the notch in the bolt handle when I reassembled the bolt. This locks the firing pin assembly from rotating when you operate the bolt. If not seated fully, the firing pin assembly will rotate as you run it and in one or two cycles it will line up with the disassembly notches and come apart inside the rifle. To reassemble, I created a 2 x 4 block of wood with a hole drilled in it to accommodate the firing pin and spring. Then you can reassemble it using the bolt handle to press it down and lock it back in place (there is a video on the Ruger site that show you how). I used the block of wood so I wouldn't slip and bend anything.
Hope this helps.

 

[Xandrosi]

Are there rules of thumb regarding desirable barrel twist rate? Why did Ruger choose a 1:8 twist? Saw in a earlier post that someone found that 130 grain ammo produces more consistent results than 140 grain with a stock RPR 1:8 twist barrel. Replacement barrels seem to come in 1:7, 1:7.5, and 1:8. Which is "better" and with what kind of corresponding ammunition attributes please? Generally speaking, I would think that a tighter twist would result in superior ballistics, but there's obviously some balance points with other attributes (e.g., bullet weight, friction, barrel length). A YouTube I watched suggested that a higher weight bullet will benefit from a tighter twist rate.

A couple of interesting YouTubes that speak to desirable characteristics of precision rifle barrels, but really don't speak to twist rate.

 

[trob_205]

Are there rules of thumb regarding desirable barrel twist rate? Why did Ruger choose a 1:8 twist? Saw in a earlier post that someone found that 130 grain ammo produces more consistent results than 140 grain with a stock RPR 1:8 twist barrel. Replacement barrels seem to come in 1:7, 1:7.5, and 1:8. Which is "better" and with what kind of corresponding ammunition attributes please? Generally speaking, I would think that a tighter twist would result in superior ballistics, but there's obviously some balance points with other attributes (e.g., bullet weight, friction, barrel length). A YouTube I watched suggested that a higher weight bullet will benefit from a tighter twist rate.

A couple of interesting YouTubes that speak to desirable characteristics of precision rifle barrels, but really don't speak to twist rate.

My factory 6.5 CM barrel shoots little bug holes with factory hornady 140 ELD match ammo. 1:8 is kind of the do all twist the industry has settled on in factory rifles, for good reason. Not saying 7 or 7.5 twist don’t produce results though. If you’re going to break the 140grain bullet mark maybe think more about a 7.5 or 7 twist but I wouldn’t overthink it personally.

 

[EzGoingKev]

Look at what was available for factory ammo when these rifles were released.

Also, if you need to compress the firing pin spring because the tool popped out an empty cartridge works great.

 

[Dog]

The

Are there rules of thumb regarding desirable barrel twist rate? Why did Ruger choose a 1:8 twist? Saw in a earlier post that someone found that 130 grain ammo produces more consistent results than 140 grain with a stock RPR 1:8 twist barrel. Replacement barrels seem to come in 1:7, 1:7.5, and 1:8. Which is "better" and with what kind of corresponding ammunition attributes please? Generally speaking, I would think that a tighter twist would result in superior ballistics, but there's obviously some balance points with other attributes (e.g., bullet weight, friction, barrel length). A YouTube I watched suggested that a higher weight bullet will benefit from a tighter twist rate.

A couple of interesting YouTubes that speak to desirable characteristics of precision rifle barrels, but really don't speak to twist rate.


[/QUOTt

Are there rules of thumb regarding desirable barrel twist rate? Why did Ruger choose a 1:8 twist? Saw in a earlier post that someone found that 130 grain ammo produces more consistent results than 140 grain with a stock RPR 1:8 twist barrel. Replacement barrels seem to come in 1:7, 1:7.5, and 1:8. Which is "better" and with what kind of corresponding ammunition attributes please? Generally speaking, I would think that a tighter twist would result in superior ballistics, but there's obviously some balance points with other attributes (e.g., bullet weight, friction, barrel length). A YouTube I watched suggested that a higher weight bullet will benefit from a tighter twist rate.

A couple of interesting YouTubes that speak to desirable characteristics of precision rifle barrels, but really don't speak to twist rate.

there is no real difference in twist. What I mean is, you pick the twist rate for the weight bullet you want to shoot. If you want a heavier bullet for longer distance you use a faster twist rate for stability. If you want a lighter bullet for closer and more accuracy, a slower twist rate. Don’t worry so much about the twist rate. Be more concerned with bullet weight and it’s intended purpose. Then pick the twist to match. If you want a real heavy bullet for 6.5, May be a 150gr if they make it??? Then get a 7.5 twist. I’d call kreiger or lri or benchmark barrels and ask them how a 7 or so twist rate would serve you on 6.5 cm? Is it necessary? They would know. But 1:8 seems to be the industry standard even with custom barrels, so I trust it

 

[Dog]

My factory 6.5 CM barrel shoots little bug holes with factory hornady 140 ELD match ammo. 1:8 is kind of the do all twist the industry has settled on in factory rifles, for good reason. Not saying 7 or 7.5 twist don’t produce results though. If you’re going to break the 140grain bullet mark maybe think more about a 7.5 or 7 twist but I wouldn’t overthink it personally.

P.s. I know carbon fiber seems attractive. And the proof research are the best. But you will get a little better accuracy from a stainless steel. From what I have witnessed the carbon is a .5 moa barrel. Stainless custom match barrels I have seen 1/8-1/4” groups from my rifle and others. Just something to think about

 

[Dog]

My factory 6.5 CM barrel shoots little bug holes with factory hornady 140 ELD match ammo. 1:8 is kind of the do all twist the industry has settled on in factory rifles, for good reason. Not saying 7 or 7.5 twist don’t produce results though. If you’re going to break the 140grain bullet mark maybe think more about a 7.5 or 7 twist but I wouldn’t overthink it personally.

Sorry, meant that for xandrosi

 

[straightshooter1]

P.s. I know carbon fiber seems attractive. And the proof research are the best. But you will get a little better accuracy from a stainless steel. From what I have witnessed the carbon is a .5 moa barrel. Stainless custom match barrels I have seen 1/8-1/4” groups from my rifle and others. Just something to think about

A couple questions:

Are not the core of the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrels stainless steel?

While lighter barrels can be great for hunting, heavier barrels are preferred to precision shooting competitions to help manage recoil. . . yes?

 

[quickdraw]

A couple questions:

Are not the core of the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrels stainless steel?

While lighter barrels can be great for hunting, heavier barrels are preferred to precision shooting competitions to help manage recoil. . . yes?

Yes

 

[Dog]

A couple questions:

Are not the core of the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrels stainless steel?

While lighter barrels can be great for hunting, heavier barrels are preferred to precision shooting competitions to help manage recoil. . . yes?[/QUOT

A couple questions:

Are not the core of the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrels stainless steel?

While lighter barrels can be great for hunting, heavier barrels are preferred to precision shooting competitions to help manage recoil. . . yes?

i got to see them pretty up close at shot show, They are in the inside but just a thin layer of it, then they are wrapped in carbon. Even they are shown to be solid, they produce good results, just not the same as a top level stainless. And yes to your second question. I have a 26”, 1” straight profile on my rpr. It is way way to heavy to carry around, cf would be sweet for that

 

[Xandrosi]

A couple questions:

Are not the core of the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrels stainless steel?

While lighter barrels can be great for hunting, heavier barrels are preferred to precision shooting competitions to help manage recoil. . . yes?

That's why I included those two Youtubes. They explain barrel frequency, node alignment, and how much increased rigidity is imparted by different carbon barrel companies. I was less interested in the carbon fiber barrels than why carbon fiber exteriors might be desirable for anything other than reduced weight. Basically, I didn't know what I didn't know. From Proof Research's website, their explanation of "The Science" was anything but science and explained nothing. I still can't tell whether their claims of greater rigidity and heat dispersion are accurate. IMO, learning what defines quality and why is part of any endeavor.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Am I seeing that Nosler no longer makes reloading brass for .308??

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Some sites are saying discontinued but Nosler’s site says out of stock

 

[Xandrosi]

My factory 6.5 CM barrel shoots little bug holes with factory hornady 140 ELD match ammo. 1:8 is kind of the do all twist the industry has settled on in factory rifles, for good reason. Not saying 7 or 7.5 twist don’t produce results though. If you’re going to break the 140grain bullet mark maybe think more about a 7.5 or 7 twist but I wouldn’t overthink it personally.

Though still curious, I'll wait until I can shoot bug holes at 600 yards before thinking about barrels more seriously. Bugs will come to fear me!

 

[itgoesboom]

I'm late to the party, but just purchased a RPR in 6.5 creed a couple weeks ago, topped it with a Vortex Razor 5-20 in a Badger mount. Did some load development this morning, and I'll say I think this rifle is going to make me very happy.

Rifle had 35 rounds through it (Hornady Factory 140gr BTHP) prior to doing the load workup below. 140gr ELD-M / H4350/ WLR Primers / Hornady brass

 

[Xandrosi]

Welcome ItGoesBoom and thanks for sharing.

 

[Dirty8404]

Has anyone ever had the factory 308 RPR barrel cut down to 16 in? Have other longer barreled 308's , but looking at handier length suppressed 308 for local range 500 yds and in.

Thanks

I cut mine to 16.25, love it. Kinda want to get one in 6.5 and do it again...

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I purchased a factory take off .308 and am strongly considering cutting it to 16.5"

 

[Sutherlandsd]

So.... I purchased a Timney off the PX here and while I cant really get it any lighter than I can get my factory trigger that I removed the spring and then cleaned up. The pull however on it is much better feeling plus no gross blade on it, I still dont know if its a $200 upgrade over the original especially if you put the time in to clean it up. It was certainly a $125 used worthwhile upgrade.

 

[Dirty8404]

16.25 threaded with TBAC 30CB puts the can just off of a 15” rail. Looks very slick, folds up very compactly.

 

[ilaybrk]

Why would you want to shorten the barrel I'm new to bolt action guns but I want to go longer for more velocity for distance other than being more compact and i'm guessing your not a short range sniper LoL sorry if that was a dumb question

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ Barrel length, while of course affecting velocity, can also effect accuracy. Especially if you’re using your own load that you already know works well in a barrel of that twist/length/contour/ etc. But, it’s mostly to make it more compact. For my own rig, I’m not sure if I’ll go longer than 20”, but I know I won’t go shorter than 20”

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I have a couple of barrels for my RPR already and I can change them out in about 30m or less. 308 is not my choice for long range but it is my choice for the deer here in NE TN and a 16" barrel is perfect for woods walking.

 

[Dog]

So.... I purchased a Timney off the PX here and while I cant really get it any lighter than I can get my factory trigger that I removed the spring and then cleaned up. The pull however on it is much better feeling plus no gross blade on it, I still dont know if its a $200 upgrade over the original especially if you put the time in to clean it up. It was certainly a $125 used worthwhile upgrade.

What were you able to get the poundage down to? Do you have a gauge?

 

[Dog]

So.... I purchased a Timney off the PX here and while I cant really get it any lighter than I can get my factory trigger that I removed the spring and then cleaned up. The pull however on it is much better feeling plus no gross blade on it, I still dont know if its a $200 upgrade over the original especially if you put the time in to clean it up. It was certainly a $125 used worthwhile upgrade.[/QUOTE
The Timney is a nicer feeling trigger. I have gotten hooked on the straight blade. Unfortunatley jard is the only other manufacturer to make an rpr trigger. They make a single stage 8oz which I would love to try, but I have heard there was some problems with them?. I really wish geissele would make one

 

[Dirty8404]

Why would you want to shorten the barrel I'm new to bolt action guns but I want to go longer for more velocity for distance other than being more compact and i'm guessing your not a short range sniper LoL sorry if that was a dumb question

I lost less than 100fps going from 20” to 16”, and the rifle folds up to roughly the size of an underfolder AK. Put it in a backpack with tripod and gear, walk/ride a dirtbike in to where you want to hunt/shoot and never get a second look. Excellent if you have a motorcycle.

190 custom comp at 2490, 6000ft elevation, ~1500fps still at 900yards according to my app... it doesn’t suck.

Hence why I kinda want a 16” 6.5 barrel, 2600fps and a .6 class BC? Yes please.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I can live with the Timney, I have felt the Jard and wasnt any more impressed with it than the Timney. The Timney is at least consistent which is really all I felt the stock trigger after some work lacked. I'm spoiled my favorite triggers are 20+ year old Canjar set triggers that are remington based. The set trigger on those things go off on a thought process it cant honestly be measured in oz's I think lol. I think I have a collection of 6 of those triggers now, they are not that highly sought after and no longer made but still in my mind perfect triggers.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I lost less than 100fps going from 20” to 16”, and the rifle folds up to roughly the size of an underfolder AK. Put it in a backpack with tripod and gear, walk/ride a dirtbike in to where you want to hunt/shoot and never get a second look. Excellent if you have a motorcycle.

190 custom comp at 2490, 6000ft elevation, ~1500fps still at 900yards according to my app... it doesn’t suck.

Hence why I kinda want a 16” 6.5 barrel, 2600fps and a .6 class BC? Yes please.

This..... Exactly this is why I will cut down my just acquired factory 308 barrel.

 

[Dog]

I can live with the Timney, I have felt the Jard and wasnt any more impressed with it than the Timney. The Timney is at least consistent which is really all I felt the stock trigger after some work lacked. I'm spoiled my favorite triggers are 20+ year old Canjar set triggers that are remington based. The set trigger on those things go off on a thought process it cant honestly be measured in oz's I think lol. I think I have a collection of 6 of those triggers now, they are not that highly sought after and no longer made but still in my mind perfect triggers.

You did not care for the jard? I wish I could see one in person, The 8oz

 

[Sutherlandsd]

The one I tried was on a friends gun and it was probably set around 1.5 to 2 lbs, I don't know if they are adjustable like the Timney or factory set... Regardless he had not messed with his and while it did have a repeatable and fairly crisp break I wasn't overly impressed. I think there is still some room for someone to make a really good trigger for this rifle.

I took my RPR to the range today and did enjoy the Timney trigger it was completely overshadowed by the PVA 260 rem barrel I put on my other rifle. The first shot I fired to just see if it was on the paper from the boresight and it was, so I shot 4 more for measure and the first 5 shots out of the barrel were .55MOA with factory 130 Prime ammo...I was going to put a stainless non carbon Proof on this RPR but I think Josh @ PVA may be getting some more business out of me lol.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

I lost less than 100fps going from 20” to 16”, and the rifle folds up to roughly the size of an underfolder AK. Put it in a backpack with tripod and gear, walk/ride a dirtbike in to where you want to hunt/shoot and never get a second look. Excellent if you have a motorcycle.

190 custom comp at 2490, 6000ft elevation, ~1500fps still at 900yards according to my app... it doesn’t suck.

Hence why I kinda want a 16” 6.5 barrel, 2600fps and a .6 class BC? Yes please.

I will eventually do the same to my 6.5 RPR.

I would love to see a pic or two of your rifle if you're willing to post some.

 

[EzGoingKev]

OK so today I took my stock barrel off and re-installed it.

I have a shop with a bench and nice vice but I am losing it. I have read multiple horror stories about how hard it was to removed the factory barrel. I figured while I still have the shop I will break it down so when I do replace the barrel it will come apart easier.

The barrel nut came off like nothing. I used a Magpul barrel wrench, a 1/2 breaker bar, and a Seekins action rod. I cleaned everything up, set the headspace using Manson Precision gauges, lubed it up all the threads, torqued to 75 gt lbs, and put the rest of it back together.

I took it to the range and shot some Hornady American Gunner. It was shooting 2.5 mils higher than before. I did not think it would be dead on but I did not expect that much of a difference. What do you guys think?

 

[ezekeial]

I cut mine to 16.25, love it. Kinda want to get one in 6.5 and do it again...

Thanks, it be appreciated. Am guessing your accuracy didn't get worse? Am familiar with the velocity loss, which is not a concern for this application.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

In theory shorter barrel is stiffer more accurate. Of course would depend on the Smith doing the work, the crown etc

 

[EzGoingKev]

In theory shorter barrel is stiffer more accurate. Of course would depend on the Smith doing the work, the crown etc

There is a difference in accuracy and effectiveness.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

It may make a difference shooting ELR. However, when we’re talking about these types of rifles and hand loads, inside 1000 yards, it doesn’t really matter. It comes down to the shooter. I’m sure there are plenty of people that can produce equal if not better accuracy than me at 1000 yards with me shooting my 20”, and them shooting their 16”

 

[PhOnEpHrEaK]

It may make a difference shooting ELR. However, when we’re talking about these types of rifles and hand loads, inside 1000 yards, it doesn’t really matter. It comes down to the shooter. I’m sure there are plenty of people that can produce equal if not better accuracy than me at 1000 yards with me shooting my 20”, and them shooting their 16”

Some of the best built rifles in the world only sport a 20", some shorter so. #TacOps

 

[flyright]

OK so today I took my stock barrel off and re-installed it.

I have a shop with a bench and nice vice but I am losing it. I have read multiple horror stories about how hard it was to removed the factory barrel. I figured while I still have the shop I will break it down so when I do replace the barrel it will come apart easier.

The barrel nut came off like nothing. I used a Magpul barrel wrench, a 1/2 breaker bar, and a Seekins action rod. I cleaned everything up, set the headspace using Manson Precision gauges, lubed it up all the threads, torqued to 75 gt lbs, and put the rest of it back together.

I took it to the range and shot some Hornady American Gunner. It was shooting 2.5 mils higher than before. I did not think it would be dead on but I did not expect that much of a difference. What do you guys think?

That's great news. Extends your scopable range as long as you can still zero at 100.

 

[Xandrosi]

OK so today I took my stock barrel off and re-installed it.

I have a shop with a bench and nice vice but I am losing it. I have read multiple horror stories about how hard it was to removed the factory barrel. I figured while I still have the shop I will break it down so when I do replace the barrel it will come apart easier.

The barrel nut came off like nothing. I used a Magpul barrel wrench, a 1/2 breaker bar, and a Seekins action rod. I cleaned everything up, set the headspace using Manson Precision gauges, lubed it up all the threads, torqued to 75 gt lbs, and put the rest of it back together.

I took it to the range and shot some Hornady American Gunner. It was shooting 2.5 mils higher than before. I did not think it would be dead on but I did not expect that much of a difference. What do you guys think?

Sounds like a fun project. While I have my share of vices, I am without a good vise. Now you can lose it!