If you're going to spend the money on a Kestrel, I'd suggest getting a 5700 Elite with the AB software. As well as getting the Kestrel Link Ballistics app on your smart phone so you can use the bullet library to use the CDM's instead of a G7 or G1.
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If you're going to spend the money on a Kestrel, I'd suggest getting a 5700 Elite with the AB software. As well as getting the Kestrel Link Ballistics app on your smart phone so you can use the bullet library to use the CDM's instead of a G7 or G1.
For the RPR in 6mm creedmoor does factory Hornady Match 108gr ELD ammo work well? I was surprised to read how (if I remember correctly) Frank said factory Tikka barrels shoot lighter bullets better. Does the RPR in 6mm creedmoor have any quirks like this?
If I end up purchasing the RPR Gen 2 in 6mm creedmoor do you guys have any tips or are there any common issues I should be aware of?
If I end up purchasing the RPR Gen 2 in 6mm creedmoor do you guys have any tips or are there any common issues I should be aware of?
That's all I ran through mine since it was new. They had some moments of serious greatness but since I've had to send mine back, I cant really provide a rock solid review until I shoot it again. I'd like to think the less impressive shots were due to the chamber issues I experienced.
Just shooting reloads from mine. Mine shoots the heavier bullets best. Shot some 80 grain for sight in but the heavier the better
I got about 2820 from the factory. I’m now running and LRI and reloads with about 1200 rounds down the tube. I gauge density altitude rather than elevation but was at -700 DA last time I chronoed
Anyone with the RPR and the Magnetospeed V3 noticing a POI shift with it being attached to the barrel like some other brands are reporting? My V3 will be here tomorrow and was wondering if there was a shift.
There will almost always be a POI shift when you hang something on the end of any barrel i.e. a suppressor or chrono.
Yes, I always get a POI shift on my RPR and my other guns when I attach my V3 to the barrels. But they still group well.
Thank you. Doing the reading ahead of making this purchase, but will take your advice.
Looks like plastic, which is what the Tipton is made of. It's fine for routine maintenance, but the Tipton cannot handle seroius torque.
Mine didn’t shift really too much. Maybe a 1/4 inch to the right. No elvation change whatsoever.
Actually I’ve had a load group amazingly at 100 only to find out it had an extreme spread of 104fps. At 100 yards 100 FPS isn’t much. But for instance my load is 3.4 mils to 700. 100 FPS slower is 3.7 mils, and 100 faster is 3.1 mils. That .3 might not seem like much, but it is roughly 7 inches of elevation shift.
^ Ahhh. Gotcha. I’ve had a couple loads shoot that way myself so that would be good to know ahead of time
Your bolt handle was probably not down all the way when dry firing. As a result, the firing pin back hit the cocking ramp on an angle and broke it. The firing pin back is made to accept force in line with the firing pin, not at an angle. This is my guess.
Bang
I’ll remember that next time. I was starting to think I should load some dummy rounds to dry fire with but that makes sense.
And update to others. Ruger wouldn’t send that part out, had to be factory installed. Just had to send them the bolt though, not the entire rifle thankfully. Should have it back next week.
Handloader Magazine, December 2018, No. 317 had a good article shooting 6mm Creedmoor out of a Ruger Predator (not considered by me to be a precision rifle but mainly a good hunting rifle. They used a Zeiss Conquest Riflescope 4-16X.
The most accurate load was 95 gr Sierra Tipped Matchkin with 43 gr of RL-16 with a group of .44" at 100 yards.
Next was 105 gr Berger VLD Hunting with 41.5 gr of H4350 with a group of .53" at 100 yards.
Next was 95 gr Nosler Balistic Tip with 42 gr of Big Game with a group of .55" at 100 yards.
Next was 100 gr Sierra ProHunter with 42 gr of H4350 with a group of .56" at 100 yards.
108 gr Hornady ELD-M wasn't quite as good 41 gr of RL-16 with a group of .71" at 100 yards.
It is a writeup on this caliber and what can be done with an ordinary rifle. A Ruger Precision Rifle "should do" much better.
The most accurate load was 95 gr Sierra Tipped Matchkin with 43 gr of RL-16 with a group of .44" at 100 yards.
Next was 105 gr Berger VLD Hunting with 41.5 gr of H4350 with a group of .53" at 100 yards.
Next was 95 gr Nosler Balistic Tip with 42 gr of Big Game with a group of .55" at 100 yards.
Next was 100 gr Sierra ProHunter with 42 gr of H4350 with a group of .56" at 100 yards.
108 gr Hornady ELD-M wasn't quite as good 41 gr of RL-16 with a group of .71" at 100 yards.
It is a writeup on this caliber and what can be done with an ordinary rifle. A Ruger Precision Rifle "should do" much better.
Got my Gen3 6.6CM. Mounted up my Vortex FFP Diamondback on Seekins AR high rings with an Anarchy Outdoors scope base with integrated bubble level. I ordered a flea bay bipod until I make a decision on what I want to invest in for a real bipod & I’ll put the cheap one on my RPRimfire when I get one. placed another order with AO for a Monopod. 200 rounds of ELD-M from grabagun to load after I get some seat time with the factory loads.
Read all 63 pages and really looking forward to load development. Still trying to decide on a press and which dies I want to invest in. Any suggestions?
Read all 63 pages and really looking forward to load development. Still trying to decide on a press and which dies I want to invest in. Any suggestions?
If you want the good stuff...co-ax press and Redding comp dies with the micrometer seater.
But you can get away with a lot less. I use an old Hornady single stage lock n load press. I use the full length Redding dies though.
Just ordered a RPR in 6 Creedmoor (got a great deal). I'm going to rebarrel it immediately to 6.5 Creedmoor, as I prefer the added barrel life, increased energy for hunting, and saving money on buying duplicate reloading components if I were to shoot the 6 CM barrel out before buying a match barrel in 6.5.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
. Any suggestions on which barrel manufacturer to go with for the rebarrel? I've seen that there are a lot of reputable people making barrels for the RPR. Are there any that outshine the rest? I'm going to sell the factory barrel to offset some of the costs. Is there much of a difference in a $300 replacement barrel vs a $500 replacement barrel?
I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
. Any suggestions on which barrel manufacturer to go with for the rebarrel? I've seen that there are a lot of reputable people making barrels for the RPR. Are there any that outshine the rest? I'm going to sell the factory barrel to offset some of the costs. Is there much of a difference in a $300 replacement barrel vs a $500 replacement barrel? I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
Just ordered a RPR in 6 Creedmoor (got a great deal). I'm going to rebarrel it immediately to 6.5 Creedmoor, as I prefer the added barrel life, increased energy for hunting, and saving money on buying duplicate reloading components if I were to shoot the 6 CM barrel out before buying a match barrel in 6.5.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
I went with the LRI prefit had it in 4 days. Shoots better than I do.
Hands down best deal is a proof research steel barrel from stocky stocks. Wait for a major holiday and they will be 10% off. Mine shoots under .25 moa with american gunner. With discount under $400.
I am going with a 26" replacement for mine. I don't care about the added weight as my rpr is already a fat bitch. I want the extra 2" for the velocity. I'm going to try the white oak match barrell. Heard nothing but good things.
Not alot of scenarios where an extra 2" is going to be a bad thing
Not alot of scenarios where an extra 2" is going to be a bad thing
Just purchased a Ruger Precision 6.5 Creedmoor Gen 3.
Have made a few up grades with Magpul PRS Gen3 FDE stock, Magpul MOE + FDE grip, Catalyst Arms RPR Mag Release Extension in FDE .
In addition I added Anarchy Outdoors Titanium Bolt Knob and one of their Titanium Ruger Precision Bolt Shroud w/tool.
The problem I’m having so far is getting the original Ruger handguard nut off to install a Seekins Precision SP3R handguard.
I painted the Seekins Precision in Brownells Aluma Hyde Magpul FDE.
Is an adjustment wrench ? in say 18” going to get that nut off.
I’ve already tried with a 10” wrench and did not have enough torx to get it off.
Does Ruger use any Loctite on that nut?
The original screws holding down the original hand guard were really lose and very easy to remove to get the original hand guard off! No Loctite on those at all.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Have made a few up grades with Magpul PRS Gen3 FDE stock, Magpul MOE + FDE grip, Catalyst Arms RPR Mag Release Extension in FDE .
In addition I added Anarchy Outdoors Titanium Bolt Knob and one of their Titanium Ruger Precision Bolt Shroud w/tool.
The problem I’m having so far is getting the original Ruger handguard nut off to install a Seekins Precision SP3R handguard.
I painted the Seekins Precision in Brownells Aluma Hyde Magpul FDE.
Is an adjustment wrench ? in say 18” going to get that nut off.
I’ve already tried with a 10” wrench and did not have enough torx to get it off.
Does Ruger use any Loctite on that nut?
The original screws holding down the original hand guard were really lose and very easy to remove to get the original hand guard off! No Loctite on those at all.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
^ Nice rifle! I went with FDE accessories as well. I just like it. Ruger doesn’t use any thread lock as far as I know. I actually put my receiver in the vice instead of the barrel. I used my smaller 24” breaker bar and it came right off no problem. Super easy. Set it back to 70 ft/lbs. But mine is a gen one when things were a little easier. It seems they torqued the living shit out of things ever since
I'd definitely recommend a barrel from Patriot Valley Arms: https://patriotvalleyarms.com/ruger-precision-rifle-rpr-prefit-match-barrel/Just ordered a RPR in 6 Creedmoor (got a great deal). I'm going to rebarrel it immediately to 6.5 Creedmoor, as I prefer the added barrel life, increased energy for hunting, and saving money on buying duplicate reloading components if I were to shoot the 6 CM barrel out before buying a match barrel in 6.5.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
Any thoughts on this gun in 338 Lapua? I don't seem to find the aftermarket barrels for the 338 like other smaller calibers...
First crack at 5x6. 5x6 - .601" 5x5 - .572". Definitely feels to have more potential because I have shot several .3s but not this day. Will attempt again when weather improves
Bartlein/woa. 6.5 barrel
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/sh...cA&jobid=7c0fba16-2e6c-4382-9a8a-20a2710d6bcf
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/sh...cA&jobid=7c0fba16-2e6c-4382-9a8a-20a2710d6bcf
I would love a pva barrel. Unfortunately pva is not in a good place right now with all the drama from the jhr. It's like a 6mo wait time on barrels from them...at minimum..
LRI makes one..
Match Grade Drop In Replacement Barrel For Magnum Ruger RPR
LRI is proud to offer our premium match grade, cut rifled stainless steel barrel blanks for the Magnum version of the Ruger Precision Rifle. All of our RPR replacement barrels are fitted and chambered using our carefully developed process on state of the art CNC turning centers. These are...
www.longriflesinc.com
LRI is fastest turnaround. PROOF Steel or Carbon Wrapped are my top three. PVA makes them but loooong wait times. LRI or Proof and be done.Just ordered a RPR in 6 Creedmoor (got a great deal). I'm going to rebarrel it immediately to 6.5 Creedmoor, as I prefer the added barrel life, increased energy for hunting, and saving money on buying duplicate reloading components if I were to shoot the 6 CM barrel out before buying a match barrel in 6.5.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
I just ordered the catalyst arms fast track to finish out my RPR. I know I'm going to have to remove the outer nut to install the new handguard.
My question is, what is the best way to secure the rifle or barrel to wrench on it?
Thanks
My question is, what is the best way to secure the rifle or barrel to wrench on it?
Thanks
I should be putting the vice on the barrel? Or will the upper receiver be fine with some padding? I want to make sure I'm not putting any undo stress on parts I shouldn't be?
I've seen receiver vices and blocks mentioned in previous pages of this thread, but couldn't find the exact models mentioned in the thread that work well with the RPR.
I've seen receiver vices and blocks mentioned in previous pages of this thread, but couldn't find the exact models mentioned in the thread that work well with the RPR.
^ You can put it in the vise either way. Many grip the barrel but with my particular vise and setup it kinda just fit better on the receiver. I got a pair of anti mar vise grips on Amazon. They’re basically pieces of rubber that have magnets on the back so they stick to the inside of your vise. The pair I got also have semi circle cutouts on each side so that you can grip the barrel if you want to. They worked great for me.
They’re cheap but I really liked them. Strong grip and no marring
They’re cheap but I really liked them. Strong grip and no marring
I haven't used it but here's another option:
Action Rod for Ruger Precision & American Rifles
If you want to swap out the barrel on your Rugar rifle, the search has ended. The Anarchy Outdoors branded rifle action rod, for the Ruger Precision and American Rifle models, has your back. This rod slips into the action providing overall support for those needed barrel changes, giving the home...
www.anarchyoutdoors.com
Just ordered a RPR in 6 Creedmoor (got a great deal). I'm going to rebarrel it immediately to 6.5 Creedmoor, as I prefer the added barrel life, increased energy for hunting, and saving money on buying duplicate reloading components if I were to shoot the 6 CM barrel out before buying a match barrel in 6.5.
I've read through the first few pages of this thread, but haven't been able to read all 64 yet
I have a really good smith who I would trust to do the chamber job, if need be. Any advantage to going this route over a pre-fit barrel?
Pretty sure I'll stick with the standard factory length of 24". Any reason to do anything different?
Thanks for the help.
I have a 6.5 Creed Proof Research 24" M24 stainless barrel, prefit. Headspace set to minimum +0.003" per Proof recommendation.
130g Nosler RDF loaded .060" off the lands with BL-C(2) powder and Federal 210M primers Prime brass.
100 yards
Hornady 147 ELD Match, .025" off the lands, Prime Brass, 41g Reloder 17, Federal 210M primers.
Thanks for posting groups with the proof barrel. I've been debating between that one and the white oak prefit. I think the proof is probably best bang for the buck right now.
I'm going to order the stainless version this week.
Are you totally happy with yours? Is there any issues with it and did you install it yourself?
I'm going to order the stainless version this week.
Are you totally happy with yours? Is there any issues with it and did you install it yourself?
I installed myself, easy cheesy. I got it from Stocky's. Fast shipping, got it in less than a week. I am very satisfied with this barrel and I only have about 400 through it so far. If you have any questions about installation or technical specifications about the barrels, contact Proof Research and they will be more than happy day answer all your questions. I am truly excited to stretch it out to over a thousand yards at the end of this month with @dspjaggar and some others out in the California desert.
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Ruger Precision Rifle - 6.5 Creedmoor - 7.5 Twist - 26 IN - .900 @ muzzle
6.5MM - Ruger Precision Rifle - Stainless Steel 4 Grooves Twist 1 - 7.5 Stainless Steel RPR Heavy Contour
direct.kriegerbarrels.com
This guy seems to be a pretty good choice. Any reason to go another way?
I assume the 7.5 twist vs an 8 twist isn't a big deal.
The proof is probably my second choice right now at the lower price point. In terms of quality, the factory barrel would probably be the lowest quality, then the proof, and then the krieger as being the best of the three??
I assume Krieger does the chamber job on these. Do they have a reputation for quality chamber jobs?
Thanks!
Kreiger make excellent products. The 7.5 twist will be better for 140 and heavier projectiles in general. Sierra recommends a 7.5 twist for their 150g 6.5 bullet.Ruger Precision Rifle - 6.5 Creedmoor - 7.5 Twist - 26 IN - .900 @ muzzle
6.5MM - Ruger Precision Rifle - Stainless Steel 4 Grooves Twist 1 - 7.5 Stainless Steel RPR Heavy Contour
This guy seems to be a pretty good choice. Any reason to go another way?
I assume the 7.5 twist vs an 8 twist isn't a big deal.
The proof is probably my second choice right now at the lower price point. In terms of quality, the factory barrel would probably be the lowest quality, then the proof, and then the krieger as being the best of the three??
I assume Krieger does the chamber job on these. Do they have a reputation for quality chamber jobs?
Thanks!
Thought I would share my experience with barrel life 6.5mm Shooting NRA long range high-power. 6.5x55 96 Mauser military barrel lasted about 3,500 rounds shooting loads of 140gr at 2,750 fps; 6.5x284 shooting 142gr at 2,920 fps (40X action) lasted 1,150 rounds.; 6.5x55 Shilen barrel (same 40X action) shooting 142gr at 2,880 fps lasted 1,900 rounds. So I think the 6.5 Creedmore is maybe good for 2,000-2,500 rounds. Any one know where they have long range matches around central Florida. Recently moved here, about 60 miles north of Orlando. I have had my RPR for about a year and hardly used it. Worked up a good load with 142gr sierra match kings, groups just over half minute at 200m.
The Krieger is 26" vs the proof @ 24" so speeds will be a little faster with the Krieger.Ruger Precision Rifle - 6.5 Creedmoor - 7.5 Twist - 26 IN - .900 @ muzzle
6.5MM - Ruger Precision Rifle - Stainless Steel 4 Grooves Twist 1 - 7.5 Stainless Steel RPR Heavy Contour
This guy seems to be a pretty good choice. Any reason to go another way?
I assume the 7.5 twist vs an 8 twist isn't a big deal.
The proof is probably my second choice right now at the lower price point. In terms of quality, the factory barrel would probably be the lowest quality, then the proof, and then the krieger as being the best of the three??
I assume Krieger does the chamber job on these. Do they have a reputation for quality chamber jobs?
Thanks!
As far as I know both proof and Krieger are higher end cut rifled barrels. I'm not totally sure I would classify the proof as lower quality.
either barrel is going to be a major step up from the stock cold hammer forged ruger barrel.
Can't go wrong either way.
I went Proof because one of my SWAT snipers has a couple personal rifles in 260 he uses. They were done by Spartan Rifles in San Jose, CA. They have Proof stainless barrels and they are just stupid accurate. I shot them a couple years ago and was blown away at how easy it was to put every round EXACTLY where I wanted to.
That is why I went with Proof... before they were cool LoL.
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