Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[straightshooter1]

In this pic of your's, it definetly looks lower than mine as mine IS level with the bolt. Whether this is really related to your problem, I don't know. But it is a difference. Otherwise, there may be something inside the bolt that's binding. And I'd take it apart to see what it might be, even though it's a hassle getting back together.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ I’ll second that. Mine definitely doesn’t look like that

 

[Racer88]

In this pic of your's, it definetly looks lower than mine as mine IS level with the bolt. Whether this is really related to your problem, I don't know. But it is a difference. Otherwise, there may be something inside the bolt that's binding. And I'd take it apart to see what it might be, even though it's a hassle getting back together.

The tool that came from the FACTORY (plastic) didn't work, either. It broke when I tried to make that pivot past 45-degrees to 90-degrees. Same problem... hit a "wall," so to speak. The spring will NOT compress enough to allow the tool to pivot the rest of the way.

I HAVE to believe I'm not the only / first one to have this problem. Anyone else? Bueller? Bueller?

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ You could bring it up with AO and try the tool from LRI

 

[straightshooter1]

The spring will NOT compress enough to allow the tool to pivot the rest of the way.

This seems to be the heart of the problem. SOMETHING isn't allowing the spring to be compressed further. That could be an issue with the spring itself (like, a spring with dimensions that are a little off) or some other part internally that's getting in the way.

Maybe it's time to send the bolt to Ruger and have them take a look at it???

 

[Racer88]

This seems to be the heart of the problem. SOMETHING isn't allowing the spring to be compressed further. That could be an issue with the spring itself (like, a spring with dimensions that are a little off) or some other part internally that's getting in the way.

Maybe it's time to send the bolt to Ruger and have them take a look at it???

Or, I could remove the firing pin and chance the tool popping out (it probably will). And, then try to see for myself what's going on in there. How hard is it to get back together if the tool pops out?

 

[straightshooter1]

Or, I could remove the firing pin and chance the tool popping out (it probably will). And, then try to see for myself what's going on in there. How hard is it to get back together if the tool pops out?

That's the approach I would take. But, that's just me.

I once had the whole thing apart, to just to check out the internal cleanliness. It was a little hard to get it back together, mainly because of the limited tools I have. I managed by using a couple of crescent wrenches to compress the spring. I'm sure there's an easier way and in fact I recall there was someone on this website that mentioned using something (I just can't remember now) that was common and worked quite well. So, being "mechanically inclined", I'm sure you could work it out.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ With the rubber grips inserted, I put the pin in my vise and used a crescent wrench to compress the spring while I place the tool back in. Was pretty simple

 

[Kurusty]

I have a question for all of you out there that have an RPR but also have higher dollar custom guns. I am trying to figure out a way to ask this without sounding like an A-hole, but I am not having much luck.

When comparing an RPR against a custom or higher quality rifle, do you feel like it's missing out on anything other than fit and finish?

I like my RPR a lot, it has served me well, but I keep dreaming of something better. But if I spend a few thousand dollars on a new rifle, am I going to get that much more out of it, or is my vanity just getting the best of me?

I don't own any custom rifles, but I've shot many different ones at club matches, people that have them love to let you shoot them! I shoot my RPR in matches, and I love it. The biggest differences that I notice in the high end rifles is how smooth the actions are. It is definitely is a world of difference compared to mine. If I had the money to spare I probably would have one, but I'm very happy with my RPR though.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.

 

[larrystine]

I have one of these in titanium and they will engrave whatever you want on them.

What I like about this model is the titanium (or aluminum) bolt disassembly tool which is so much more durable than the plastic one from Ruger.

Ruger Precision Rifle Bolt Shroud Replacement

The Titanium Gun Parts' Ruger Precision Rifle Bolt Shroud with Tool is the only aftermarket complete factory shroud replacement. Many aftermarket shrouds have solid cores and do not contain the firing pin tear down tool. The RPR comes with a plastic tool that is prone to breaking. The Ruger...

www.anarchyoutdoors.com

View attachment 7128606View attachment 7128606

I got one of these and the fit to the bolt is awful. Called anarchy up and all they did is make excuses. Since mine was custom engraved by their engraver they wouldnt do anything about it(wont do business with them anymore)The aluminum tool is great but the shroud itself sounds like a rattle trap once installed. Go with an LRI and dont look back

 

[Kurusty]

Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.

LMFAO! You nailed it.

 

[PracticalTactical]

Following up to my RPR bolt tool breaking on me while trying to disassemble my bolt.

I got my titanium bolt shroud and bolt tool from Anarchy. It's a nice bit of kit.

But, now I know why the plastic tool broke. My bolt WILL NOT come apart. Even with the titanium tool. I insert it, and I can pivot the tool about 45-degrees, and THAT'S IT. It will not swing around to 90-degrees. Will. Not. I've tried and tried, using a fairly significant amount of force.

WTF is the problem??

Bolt rotated and aligned
View attachment 7150347

This is as far as I can pivot the tool. I can put all my weight on it, and it will not budge any further.
View attachment 7150348

Another view of the tool in place. It will not go past this position. It will not pivot to 90 degrees.
View attachment 7150350

I've tried inserting the tool from both sides... It will not budge past 45-degrees. I've already suffered injuries from trying so hard to make this thing work!

View attachment 7150351

In every video I've seen, the tool pivots EASILY. This is driving me crazy. I've tried inserting the tool from both sides. Same problem. I cannot get it to swing past 45-degrees. What is going on here? Thanks for any help!

If I'm not mistaken there are lugs on the bushing that holds the bolt handle in.

You need to rotate until the lugs on that bushing are aligned with the slots in the bolt handle.

Since you are doing this blind, you can only feel your way around, but if it is binding, you are clearly not in the right spot, just rotate the firing pin assembly a little one way or the other and try again.

From your pictures you look to be 90 degrees out of rotation.

I'm working from memory here, so please forgive me if this is not correct.

 

[DocBernard]

Finally got a chance to do a decent zero on my Gen II 6.5CM. Been working really long hours lately, so trigger time has been on the back burner except for just barrel break in shooting (also to generate reload brass). But this weekend, I finally made some time.

Can’t say how pleased I am with the results. I was shooting short range at about 80 yds paced. First group was bug eyes. Second group was same hole, and third group was bug eye and on target. (The flier you see was mine shooting an AR to confirm on paper for some one from a standing position.). Nothing done to the rifle in functionality, it’s factory stock. I attribute the bug eyes from poor shooting position/body mechanics

I am running an Athlon Argos, Atlas bipod, and Accushot monopod. Was firing factory 124gr hollow tip Winchester. The can is borrowed, but it’s an AAC 7.62 (love how it settles it down even more)

Can’t wait to get the reload gear together so I can tweak my loads even better.

 

[cgobeli]

Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.

I think you really hit the nail on the head with that one. I have had many people offer, but I always say no because I do not want to know what it is like out there unless I have the money to play, I cant have that rattling around in my head.

 

[Racer88]

If I'm not mistaken there are lugs on the bushing that holds the bolt handle in.

You need to rotate until the lugs on that bushing are aligned with the slots in the bolt handle.

Since you are doing this blind, you can only feel your way around, but if it is binding, you are clearly not in the right spot, just rotate the firing pin assembly a little one way or the other and try again.

From your pictures you look to be 90 degrees out of rotation.

I'm working from memory here, so please forgive me if this is not correct.

I'll try again with that perspective. Thanks!

On another note... I've got over 2800 rounds through my original RPR 6.5CM barrel. Theoretically, it should be nearly "shot out." But, then I pulled this off this weekend at 300 yards. We had a wind from 5 - 15 mph from about 7 o'clock. Temp was about 90 degrees. Factory Hornady ELD-M 140-gr ammo.

1st target of the day. Minus the "sighters" on the right, I kept the other 18 shots within 1-MOA.

I ran another 20 rounds through a 2nd target. I screwed around with windage switching from holdover to dialing. So, screwing around opened up the group a bit.

Then I switched to a gridded "precision" target. I was surprised that all five groups were sub-MOA. I had one honest-to-goodness sub-1/2-MOA group. And, two of the groups were about 1/3-MOA, if I subtracted the "flyers."

Close-up of Group 1 from that target.

Close-up of Group 3... sub-1/2-MOA. No flyers!

Close-up of Group 4. Even with the "flyer," a nearly 1/2-MOA group!

It was a good day at the range... at least for me! Probably the best I've ever shot.

 

[cgobeli]

What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.

 

[straightshooter1]

What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.

This one works well for me:

 

[RPR300WM]

What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.

Mechforce Barrel Vise for Hunting Gun, Rifle, Gunsmithing, Benchrest, Clamp

Mechforce is an American designer and manufacturer of top quality military defense and consumer products, including firearm accessories, everyday carry tools and metal fidgeting toys.

mechforce-usa.com

 

[LongRangeLefty]

What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.

I just use the rubber inserts on my bench vise. But if anything my barrel nut was actually under torqued from the factory, so it’s served me just fine. I’ll get one eventually

 

[Jethatsme]

For those of you considering upgrading your RPR, I though I might provide a short review on a recent addition I made. I became really frustrated with Ruger’s Buttstock. Aesthetically is went with the rifle but practically speaking the stock is not very to work with. The adjustment are sloppy and I hated that you had to loosen the comb and length of pull at the same time to make adjustments. That said, I wanted to find a stock that both looked good with the Rifle and functioned. The Magpul PRS while functionally excellent, just looked too clunky and changed the otherwise smooth look of the rifle. After review of a few options, I went with the XLR Tactical Stock. It’s light weight, carried a similar look to the original and functionally is awesome. The cheek piece has a cushioned pad that feels good against the skin. Adjustment are smooth and lock in place with the tightening of 4 bolts. Not sure about rhe installation as I took it to a gumsmith who installed it for $25.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ That’s the TR-2. I think it’s a little lighter than the Tactical. All XLR stocks are awesome though. I had the Tactical on an AR15 and regret selling it.

 

[03psd]

I like both the look and function of my gen 3 PRS. I agree the earlier version of it look clunky but the angled bottom of the gen 3 makes a huge difference. I’ve had a XLR and wasn’t impressed plus needing tools to make vague adjustments is a negative in my opinion. The magpul is tried, true and improved over time and can be found in multiple colors for $180 ish NIB.

 

[RPR300WM]

View attachment 7147481View attachment 7147485


Just installed a new, pre-fit Krieger barrel on my .300 win mag RPR.

26", 1:9 rifling, with match chamber (0.165" long, 0.3085 diameter lead), slightly heavier contour than stock.

Anxious to try it out. Gonna start with the load that worked best with stock barrel but with CBTO tweaked for this chamber

225gr Hornady ELD M
76.8gr H1000
FED GMM215M primer
Win brass
.030" off lands

Hint get the LRI barrel nut wrench if you plan to swap barrels on a magnum. Expensive but works great. The standard AR15 wrench wont work on the magnum. I spent extra $ on the LRI barrel nut wrench , good barrel vise and gauges but they are essential. If you plan on doing more than one barrel swap then buy the tools vs sending it out for a swap.

View attachment 7147481View attachment 7147485


Just installed a new, pre-fit Krieger barrel on my .300 win mag RPR.

26", 1:9 rifling, with match chamber (0.165" long, 0.3085 diameter lead), slightly heavier contour than stock.

Anxious to try it out. Gonna start with the load that worked best with stock barrel but with CBTO tweaked for this chamber

225gr Hornady ELD M
76.8gr H1000
FED GMM215M primer
Win brass
.030" off lands

Hint get the LRI barrel nut wrench if you plan to swap barrels on a magnum. Expensive but works great. The standard AR15 wrench wont work on the magnum. I spent extra $ on the LRI barrel nut wrench , good barrel vise and gauges but they are essential. If you plan on doing more than one barrel swap then buy the tools vs sending it out for a swap.

After one first shot to get a rough zero, here are the next 4 shots out of the brand new krieger barrel (.43 MOA). These are rounds 2 through 5 of the 5-shot shoot-clean break-in process. A minor incremental scope adjustment and I'll complete the remaining breakin process tomorrow. Not bad for a brand new barrel,.without any specific load development, with each round essentially a cold/clean bore shot.

 

[_Windrider_]

After one first shot to get a rough zero, here are the next 4 shots out of the brand new krieger barrel (.43 MOA). These are rounds 2 through 5 of the 5-shot shoot-clean break-in process. A minor incremental scope adjustment and I'll complete the remaining breakin process tomorrow. Not bad for a brand new barrel,.without any specific load development, with each round essentially a cold/clean bore shot.

View attachment 7155113

If that Krieger barrel needs a break in process send it back. Barrel break in is a myth. A quality made barrel needs no break in process.

Nice group regardless.

 

[RPR300WM]

If that Krieger barrel needs a break in process send it back. Barrel break in is a myth. A quality made barrel needs no break in process.

Nice group regardless.

Just following the process that came from Krieger. I don't think it needs much more, probably 2-3, 5 shot then clean steps. It's already cleaning quite quickly. I guess everyone has their opinion but I'll trust Krieger. . It ain't going back for obvious reasons.

 

[_Windrider_]

Just following the process that came from Krieger. I don't think it needs much more, probably 2-3, 5 shot then clean steps. It's already cleaning quite quickly. I guess everyone has their opinion but I'll trust Krieger. . It ain't going back for obvious reasons.

Funny that the barrel maker says to pour a bunch of solvents in. It’s like they are in the business of selling barrels?

I’m just messing with you man. You do you. I have zero issues with Krieger barrels. They are awesome.

 

[emozoo]

hey ya'll. new here, and I have 2 questions:

1.Anyone replace their gen 2 aluminum bolt shroud? I know many people replaced the plastic bolt shroud, but I am wondering if the LRI is that much difference than the GEN2 Ruger shroud.

2. Anyone upgrade the muzzle break on the Gen2? if so what are all you running?

 

[03psd]

hey ya'll. new here, and I have 2 questions:

1.Anyone replace their gen 2 aluminum bolt shroud? I know many people replaced the plastic bolt shroud, but I am wondering if the LRI is that much difference than the GEN2 Ruger shroud.

2. Anyone upgrade the muzzle break on the Gen2? if so what are all you running?

I have the anarchy outdoors bolt shroud. Not sure what material it is but its a heck of lot more stout than the flimsy aluminum shroud my gen 2 RPR came with. I swapped bolt handles at the same time.
As far as a brake, I use a Rugged 2 chamber muzzle brake that is also my supressor mount. I use the same brake/mount on several rifles so I can move my can from rifle to rifle. Also just as a brake its very effective. Loud as hell but thats to be expected. Keeps folks from using the bench next to me at the range.

 

[IronmanDaremo]

Finally got out to the range with my new RPR in 6.5CM with a Vortex Razor HD first gen. and Harris bi-pod. First time shooting a rifle in almost 30 years (since leaving the military, basically), and first time ever on a scope. Form was horrible, and need to figure out how to do this right to be able to compete! Did a combination of bench and prone. But my back was already hurting me before I went to the range, so when I went prone, my shooting went south a bit - no sub-MOA with the best only at 1.14" for the four groups I shot prone.

Tested out the Hornady 140 gr. eld-m and the Federal 130gr OTM (Berger bullet). Zeroed with the Hornady, and had my best groups with it. Still going to test out other ammo to see what is the most consistent.

But a .56 MOA 5 shot group at 100yds , and all groups for the day under 1.6 MOA??? The .56 group was only the 16 - 20th shots through the barrel after teasing out the zero at 50 with the first 10, and a 5-shot group at 100 to make more adjustments (which was also a .97 MOA group). Almost all the gun and not me, but I'll take it as a good start!

 

[atepointer]

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but as soon as I saw this I ordered it up been waiting on someone to make an angled bag rider. If there was one out there I missed it, but for sure this would be another option

Catalyst Arms Apex Bag Rider

The Catalyst Arms' new Bag Rider is made for the Ruger Precision Rifle buttstock but should fit anything with a Picatinny rail in the back. If you use your Ruger as intended, that is shooting Precision Rifle with it, you're going to like to have a bag in the rear to help you keep the reticle in...

www.thefirearmblog.com

 

[straightshooter1]

Finally got out to the range with my new RPR in 6.5CM with a Vortex Razor HD first gen. and Harris bi-pod. First time shooting a rifle in almost 30 years (since leaving the military, basically), and first time ever on a scope. Form was horrible, and need to figure out how to do this right to be able to compete! Did a combination of bench and prone. But my back was already hurting me before I went to the range, so when I went prone, my shooting went south a bit - no sub-MOA with the best only at 1.14" for the four groups I shot prone.

I know what you mean with regards to the back hurting issue. It's the same for me and had to decide that shooting prone is simply something I can no do as it's just too uncomfortable and that affects my shooting results. So, now I'm pretty much just a bench rest shooter at a range. (getting old sucks)

Tested out the Hornady 140 gr. eld-m and the Federal 130gr OTM (Berger bullet). Zeroed with the Hornady, and had my best groups with it. Still going to test out other ammo to see what is the most consistent.

I've seen and talked to a few people out at the ranges I shoot at the virtually all of them applaud the Hornady 140 ELDs. So, for a 6.5CM I'd say to stick with them as they can shoot really well. And if you ever decide to go down the rabbit hole, reloading with them can produce some very, very good results.

But a .56 MOA 5 shot group at 100yds , and all groups for the day under 1.6 MOA??? The .56 group was only the 16 - 20th shots through the barrel after teasing out the zero at 50 with the first 10, and a 5-shot group at 100 to make more adjustments (which was also a .97 MOA group). Almost all the gun and not me, but I'll take it as a good start!

I shoot the .308 in my RPR, so based only on what I've observed and heard at the ranges from others, you should expect the ammo to produce under .75 MOA. Just two weeks ago a shooting acquaintance of mine had just bought a new 6.5CM RPR and was shooting the Hornady 140 ELS's and was getting 5 round groups at around .4 MOA at 100 yds. It was pretty impressive to me for a new factory rifle to do that. He's a pretty good shooter and practices A LOT as I almost always see him at the range when I'm out there. He says he's loven the gun and looking forward to seeing what he can do with hand loads.

Anyway . . . you might be surprised at how much of such deviations can be attributed to the shooter (unless, of course, you just happened to get one of the guns that the factory didn't produce well). And with lack of experience, one will find it does take some time to work it out . . . particularly if there's no formal training involved.

You may have already done it, but one of the things that helped me on my RPR was getting trigger pull down to as low as possible. I got mine down to 12 oz and it really helped along with changing the grip that helped me with a more consistent pull too.

You can find some excellent information with regards to precision shooting here (though has to do with the prone position, a lot can be applied to shooting off the bench):

Precision Rifle Marksmanship - Zero Force Firing Position :: Primal Rights, Inc

Building your firing position is one of the most important factors of successfully operating a precision rifle. Of all the fundamental concepts which govern the precision and accuracy we can achieve with our rifles, firing position generally has the least attention paid to it and is quite...

www.primalrights.com

Let us all know how it goes.

 

[IronmanDaremo]

Excellent, thanks!! I'm definitely hooked. And can see the potential for (yet another) expensive hobby! ;-)

 

[straightshooter1]

But a .56 MOA 5 shot group at 100yds , and all groups for the day under 1.6 MOA??? The .56 group was only the 16 - 20th shots through the barrel after teasing out the zero at 50 with the first 10, and a 5-shot group at 100 to make more adjustments (which was also a .97 MOA group). Almost all the gun and not me, but I'll take it as a good start!

PS: To measure your groups, take your caliper and zero it on one of the bullets diameter and then measure the groups edge to edge rather than trying to find and measure center to center. This makes it easier and quicker to get a more accurate measurement.

 

[fancygunz]

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but as soon as I saw this I ordered it up been waiting on someone to make an angled bag rider. If there was one out there I missed it, but for sure this would be another option

Catalyst Arms Apex Bag Rider

The Catalyst Arms' new Bag Rider is made for the Ruger Precision Rifle buttstock but should fit anything with a Picatinny rail in the back. If you use your Ruger as intended, that is shooting Precision Rifle with it, you're going to like to have a bag in the rear to help you keep the reticle in...

www.thefirearmblog.com

Does this fit the Gen1 rail? Just today I was considering getting this one:

https://shop.mcreesprecision.net/McRees-Precision-Rear-Slider-RPR-LONG-SLOPED-RPR-LONG-SLOPED-REARSLIDER.htm

(Edit: fixed link)

 

[atepointer]

Does this fit the Gen1 rail? Just today I was considering getting this one:

https://shop.mcreesprecision.net/McRees-Precision-Rear-Bag-Slider-RPR-MP-CB-BR.htm

Says it fits all Ruger Precision short action, but not magnum models. I looked at McRees, but in the end wasn't really doing what I wanted.

 

[hdmunger]

Does this fit the Gen1 rail? Just today I was considering getting this one:

https://shop.mcreesprecision.net/McRees-Precision-Rear-Slider-RPR-LONG-SLOPED-RPR-LONG-SLOPED-REARSLIDER.htm

(Edit: fixed link)

I would think the McRees FLAT bag rider would be preferable...a straight back recoil sounds more beneficial than being able to adjust elevation by pushing the rifle back and forth prior to shot.

 

[ricksmunn]

Finished up this angled bag project a while back. I think it turned out pretty good. And it’s tooless.

 

[fancygunz]

Finished up this angled bag project a while back. I think it turned out pretty good. And it’s tooless. View attachment 7158087View attachment 7158088View attachment 7158089

Why did you choose angled over flat? I was ready to buy angled, then I read the comment above and rethought my decision.

 

[ricksmunn]

I shoot PRS style matches and it helps to have an angled bag rider to make quick elevation adjustments on the clock. I have a flat version as well, but I have found the angled version to be most useful.

 

[Throat Toaster]

Wow. First few posts in here huh. Welcome back everyone. Once you get here.

I'll catch up in this topic after I reply. I'm looking at these, debating between .300 Win Mag and .300 PRC. I already have everything needed to load for the Win Mag. On the other hand, in 2009, I made a .30 wildcard on the 375 Ruger case. So naturally I'm leaning to the PRC.

I'm wanting to know how the accuracy is if you have a .300, either one. Do they like heavy bullets? Thanks!

 

[atepointer]

Finished up this angled bag project a while back. I think it turned out pretty good. And it’s tooless. View attachment 7158087View attachment 7158088View attachment 7158089

Shoot wish I'd of known woulda sent you 50 bucks for it vs paying Catalyst Arms. Having said that mine is here love it. Did you DIY that cheek pad?

 

[ricksmunn]

Shoot wish I'd of known woulda sent you 50 bucks for it vs paying Catalyst Arms. Having said that mine is here love it. Did you DIY that cheek pad?

Dang, that’s pretty spendy. I wouldn’t charge that much. No, I actually bought that pad off of amazon, but I have made a couple of cheek pads for guns in the past.

 

[ilaybrk]

Dang, that’s pretty spendy. I wouldn’t charge that much. No, I actually bought that pad off of amazon, but I have made a couple of cheek pads for guns in the past.

Shoot wish I'd of known woulda sent you 50 bucks for it vs paying Catalyst Arms. Having said that mine is here love it. Did you DIY that cheek pad?

shopruger.com had cheek pads but I don't see them on the site now. They were direct fit for RPR $19.95 and it was made from Sorbothane

 

[Racer88]

shopruger.com had cheek pads but I don't see them on the site now. They were direct fit for RPR $19.95

Got mine here: https://godagrip.com/store/Super-Soft-3-x-6-Customizable-Pads-1-8-inch-thick-p43079218

 

[ricksmunn]

I ordered mine off amazon for 14.99. It’s held up good so far. If anyone needs an angled bag rider let me know.

 

[emozoo]

me!

I ordered mine off amazon for 14.99. It’s held up good so far. If anyone needs an angled bag rider let me know.
View attachment 7158507

 

[fancygunz]

I ordered mine off amazon for 14.99. It’s held up good so far. If anyone needs an angled bag rider let me know.
View attachment 7158507

I could use a rider.

 

[ricksmunn]

I can print off a couple and ship them out to you guys. They’re $20 if that works for you

 

[atepointer]

Dang, that’s pretty spendy. I wouldn’t charge that much. No, I actually bought that pad off of amazon, but I have made a couple of cheek pads for guns in the past.

Oh I meant I'd of bought the bag rider from you! Yea 50 still is a little salty, but ti seemed to be in price with other offerings with shipping. I love it though worth the dough.

Will chck out the Ruger cheek pad.