I don't think it would come anywhere near $12,000 which is the post I was referring to but yes you could spend enough where the cost would be about the same as some custom rifles. My 1st gen cost me about a $1000.00 and I've changed out the handguard to a Seekins, the bolt shroud to an Anarchy Outdooors Titanium with the tool, The barrel to a Bartlein from PVA and a muzzle brake from there also, a stock and mag release from Target Tool Precision and the Timney trigger which if I remember correctly is still under $3000.00 Add the scope and it's around $5000.00
Yeah, one can do all that. But if one thinks they are likely to do so, maybe all that money to spend on these these can get you a much better custom rifle for the same overall cost. . . huh???
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
I'm very happy with my Krieger prefit .300 win mag barrel. Much better than the factory barrel which is basically a 1 MOA-ish tent stake.
Last edited:
I wonder if when you send in a gen 1 RPR they can put the longer, heavier barrel on it. Or if you get a custom barrel replacement, will a gen 1 take a heavy barrel?
Was it too much distance to the lands? Mine seems that way. I am going to measure it.
Isn't that pretty much standard with every RPR? Seems like that gets talked about all the time. If you go with magazine length anyway. I don't know about my 6.5CM, but if I load the .338 to the lands it's too long to eject, the ejection port opening is too short.
Some early 6mm creed RPRs were jammed to the lands with factory 108 ammo. Berger 105 hybrids loaded to mag length (pmag) were also jammed. You could easily see the rifling marks if you cycled a loaded round. But the thing shot so well that I decided to live with it.
I finally received the stamp for my suppressor. I have been shooting and noticed a lot of carbon build up on the end of the barrel. I don't want to chance messing up the crown but should i scrape the carbon off? Is this normal with a suppressor?
Actually, it was a no freebore situation. I was too much of a noob at the time to realize what was going on. Ended up buying a 2nd one online and had same issue. They finally "made" me one at the factory. It was a long story but in the end they made it right.
Yeah, one can do all that. But if one thinks they are likely to do so, maybe all that money to spend on these these can get you a much better custom rifle for the same overall cost. . . huh???
I like my 6.5 rpr, but with that said you can spend enough money “upgrading” your rpr that you Have in it what a full custom cost... I’ve seen it done
I think it depends how much more it is than a regular one. If it’s close to the previous deals on the 6, that’d be pretty sweet.
Either way pretty cool Ruger continues to make these changes.
Starting to work up loads for for my 6.5 RPR. From some data I've seen, I'm thinking my barrel is a little "slow". 42.9 gr was the top of my loads so far and still not showing any signs of pressure.
Thoughts?
Edit: table colors for clarity
Thoughts?
Edit: table colors for clarity
That table looks very normal, and as expected you have really good numbers right around 42gr of H4350. All 4 of my RPR barrels had amazing loads between 42.0gr to 42.4gr when using H4350. And my speeds were pretty much identical to yours. I would advise sticking with the 42.1gr load since it has the best data and it will prevent you from having any future pressure problems if you shoot in any wet or really dirty conditions like at a match. A lot of people try to push their load as fast as possible, but that won’t improve your accuracy and will greatly increase the chance of pressure issues and wear your barre out faster. If the gun performs better at a slower speed, then stick with that. All of my 6.5 loads have been around 2700-2730fps (including my current 6.5 on my Bighorn Origin). It is a very common node for 6.5s.
Thanks for the info ricksmunn. I guess that I read too much. Some info I've read guys are closer to 2800 @ around 43gr.
No problem. I’ve seen some guys run around 2800fps with 43gr or so like you said, but there really isn’t any reason to go that fast. It just increases the chances of problems. I think you’ll have the best luck around that 42.1gr load.
Since Ruger changes out calibers from time to time, what is the chance that they will offer the long action in a 30-06? 24" to 26" barrel; 5 to 10-round capacities. Really thinking 30-06 right now, and if Ruger offered it, I would definitely consider picking up another rifle.
Last edited:
I had been meaning to post this for a while... Got the AD Arms cocking piece installed and put a few hundred rounds through the RPR with it. One of the things I disliked most about the RPR was the heavy bolt throw. While this does not make the bolt throw feather light, it is noticeably improved.
Thanks for the review! Picked up one myself. Waiting for a check to come in so I can buy the AO firing pin and change them both at the same time I do my barrel swap. I’ve had my RPR for 3 years now and enjoy shooting it as much as my custom rig.
Heads up on the receiver in the RPR, mine rusted out and so did the barrel.
that’s ok though, Cerakote was always part of the plan.
that’s ok though, Cerakote was always part of the plan.
Thanks for the heads up. I rattle canned mine, so far no signs of rust.
Mine looked like that, just about when I got it. I took it all apart and wiped it down with 0000 steel wool and oil
Did you get it wet or something? I’m surprised to see that much rusting. Mine doesn’t have any rust and I bought it when they first released the RPR. I have seen gun rust like that if they get wet in the rain and then don’t get dried off before being put away. I suppose they could also rust if you live in a high humidity area.
It happened after taking the treadproof class with @lowlight and @Enough Said. It was dried before putting away. Its all good, it’ll get fixed. Just sharing my experience.
Dang, that’s rough, but at least now you have an excuse to get a cool paint job haha
At least it’s not a safe queen. That’s an easy fix. Can wait to see what kind of cerakote you end up putting on it. I’ve been debating on doing some coating for mine.
I’ve beat the hell out of this thing. It’s the rifle I usually let my friends shoot
I hear that. I’ve abused mine also but it’s taken it. Just have to add another coat of krylon every now and then.
Paint works,but I just simply tend to flog on shit.
Wait until there's simply something actually the fuck wrong.
I'm into Safe Queens and never get time to go Outdoors,let alone shoot.
laughing!
Haha. I know I’ve got a few that just sit as well. Wish I had more time to enjoy them too.
There has got to be some way to apply a tough hot wax or or something other than grease to protect the non-wear surfaces of our firearms! Looking for ideas?
Boeshield T9. It’s a mixture of solubilized waxes. Woodworkers use it to keep tablesaws from rusting. Sailors wipe down exposed rails and other brightwork with it. Fantastic corrosion resistance.
Man I never thought of that on my rifles! Used this on the boat for years it's magical got some in the garage thanks for bringing it up.
Been using it on my blued 1911 for a couple years now. I carry it every day next to my skin and the Boeshield really keeps the bluing looking new.
Don’t know. The waxes are dissolved in a mild carrier solvent of some sort. Maybe try a small spot and see what happens?
Thanks for the product info. I knew someone had to know what was out there and would work to help protect our firearm investments. I figured a wax product would provide better protection without accumulating dirt, dust hair balls.
I could try that. Thanks for the info. I’ll Do a little research too
What I read on Amazon about the product says it is paint safe! I ordered the aerosol and squeeze bottle.
What is your RPR System? Short of calling it a Sniper Weapon System (SWS) like the M24 SWS; what does your RPR dedicated system look like? I was evaluating my own last night and realized, that too much of the ground support for my rifle is shared across multiple rifle systems... I want to change that, even if I have to duplicate every tool, rag, or cleaning rod, just to stay dedicated. What triggered me was the latest video dropped by the Sniper's Hide, highlighting tool kits for your rifles.
Would any of you mind showcasing your system? If you have previously done so, would you mind posting again? Pics and lists would be greatly appreciated!
My next two purchases will be a dedicated compartmentalized rifle case, and one of the tool kits highlighted in the linked video. Or I may just add another Fatboy torque set to my kit. Thoughts?
Would any of you mind showcasing your system? If you have previously done so, would you mind posting again? Pics and lists would be greatly appreciated!
My next two purchases will be a dedicated compartmentalized rifle case, and one of the tool kits highlighted in the linked video. Or I may just add another Fatboy torque set to my kit. Thoughts?
My rifle’s have their own hardware ie: bipod, optic, etc.
They share the tools I have at home or on the road. I have a set of home tools and road tools. Assorted gunsmithing tools and misc wheeler tools like a torque wrench or scope mounting levels. My road kit is a set of fix it sticks with multiple ratchet type torque limiters for optic mounting, action screws, etc. with multiple bit types.
I say the only dedicated items I have as a tool for each rifle would be the optic tools provided by each scope manufacturer. Some come with a really small allen hex tool that will only fit that particular scope turret or whatever.
I learned long ago and mostly the hard way to have a separate home and road toolkit for all my rifles with interchangeable bits and torque limiters. You never know when your scope rings may loosen up after 5 rounds down range (wasted 60 rounds and a hour drive each way that day).
Sorry for no pics. I totally agree with @lowlight for having a road kit and a home kit. You could also have tools setup for long travel, home range/house as suggested in his video.
Hope this is helpful, this is just how I do things. Others will have more insight and suggestions that will be helpful as well.
Similar threads
