One spanner on the nut ,one on the Brake, loosen them from each other then just screw them off and put on the new Brake. I used an o-ring against the shoulder of the barrel to snub the brake up to. Easy to locate top dead center for the brake and never had a problem with it moving. Just tighten down one full turn after contacting the O-Ring with the brake for firm fit. I replace the O-Ring occasionally if I think the old one has crushed a bit and is in danger of letting the brake move but other than that just a bit of gun oil on the thread, on with the brake, Locate it at TDC and ya good to go.
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Looked on brownells as that’s where I got mine before and it listed it as discontinued. Such a shame because I tried seekins and the stock handguard before and they would not fit because of the ID of the handguard but over my barrel. Others may have the same issue (my barrel is 1.006”). Always best to ask whoever you plan on buying what the ID is to be safe. That’s how I ended up with MI’s.
Finishing up a re-color on my 6 Creed. Subtle camo pattern. Suppose I like it a little better than just a single color....
What are you using to "re-color" it. (as to brand, etc). I am curious as to what and have you used it before and how did it work if you did.
Thanks.
Left them off for weight reduction.
Just kidding. Loosley assembled to apply the camo pattern. I still have to take apart to headspace the barrel and install the trigger. Just wanted to get color on it.
Used AlumaHyde from Brownells. Actually leaves a really nice finish. I know it's not going to be Cerakote durable but I didn't feel like going through the hassle of sending it out, and it doesn't see a ton of battlefield time.
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They can be a pain to remove the 1st time. Put a little high temp grease on and no longer a problem
Hello fellow Ruger owners. I have a first gen RPR in 308 I bought for my son and just pulled the trigger on a RPR in 338 Lapua for me. I picked a great time to get a rifle that shoots five dollar bills but at least I can get it down to less than two fifty rolling my own since I keep a bunch of components on hand.
While I’m waiting for my rifle I need to buy a bipod and a scope. I have a Harris on the 308 but I guess I‘m going to need something more robust for this gun. I can get the good guy price on a Vortex or Leupold scope but I’m really interested in the Zero Compromise scopes too.
Also has anyone upgraded the muzzle break or is there any benefit in taking out the screws on the top of it?
Any suggestions or information would be appreciated.
While I’m waiting for my rifle I need to buy a bipod and a scope. I have a Harris on the 308 but I guess I‘m going to need something more robust for this gun. I can get the good guy price on a Vortex or Leupold scope but I’m really interested in the Zero Compromise scopes too.
Also has anyone upgraded the muzzle break or is there any benefit in taking out the screws on the top of it?
Any suggestions or information would be appreciated.
I never noticed any difference in having the screws in or out on mine. Tried both ways, then left them out. Finally got an Elite Iron 338 Sierra suppressor for mine and took the brake off. I'll never run the brake again. I accidentally shot it one time w/o hearing protection...DO NOT DO THIS! That brake is loud, may do it's job but wow is it loud, LOL.
Guys here are going to say don't waste your time with Hornady, but I picked up 3 boxes of their 285 ELD ammo to start with. Shot those factory rounds then used that brass for reloading. Reloaded those cases 12-15 times before I went with new brass. No problems yet mind you, just thought it might be time to use some new.
Got an Athlon Cronus BTR and an Atlas 5H bipod on mine. Honestly that's pretty much the only rifle I've shot in the last 1 1/2 yrs. Love it. I use Ramshot LRT powder. Luckily I just scored an 8# jug of it yesterday from Grafs so I'm good to go for awhile again.
Guys here are going to say don't waste your time with Hornady, but I picked up 3 boxes of their 285 ELD ammo to start with. Shot those factory rounds then used that brass for reloading. Reloaded those cases 12-15 times before I went with new brass. No problems yet mind you, just thought it might be time to use some new.
Got an Athlon Cronus BTR and an Atlas 5H bipod on mine. Honestly that's pretty much the only rifle I've shot in the last 1 1/2 yrs. Love it. I use Ramshot LRT powder. Luckily I just scored an 8# jug of it yesterday from Grafs so I'm good to go for awhile again.
Nope, just the Gen 3 and from what I see they don't make this one any more.
Here is the build spec sheet and model number for you. Also a little link for you to buy it now
Still can't find primers for my new-to-me 6.5 rifle. So I'm looking at my 300WM for long distance. I have lots of components for that caliber (shhh don't tell anyone) so thinking about stowing the 6.5 till I can shoot it later and try to reach out a mile with the 300. Problem is, it's an old M77 MkII and isn't the best shooter I won in that caliber. But the best shooter is a BAR Mk3 and that's not really a target rifle. So thinking about a Boyds laminated stock to start with, and a better scope. Anyone ever put a Boyds on their rifle, and bedded it? I've never bedded a rifle so not sure what that's all about. I know what it's supposed to do, and Boyds puts inserts in the stock (if you ask for them) so you can tweak it, but after that, in goes the bedding, right?
Thanks for the info on your set up. I think I’m either going to get a Harvester or an Omega suppressor for the rifle eventually. I got some 300 grain Lapua bullets and some H1000 to start with. I’m thinking about trying some 250s too.
Chip,
Is you’re 6.5 a RPR”. Just curious since the rest of your post would be better as a separate post in the bolt action forum.
That being said, I have a Boyds laminated stock on my REM 783 in 300 WM. I got the At-One stock Because at the time it was the only one with the adjustable cheek piece. It seems ridged enough but I’d probably get the Pro Varmint stock next time for the extra heft. The inlet seemed pretty good but I did a minimal bedding job with shoe polish and JB Weld ( I’m sure there are a lot of YouTube videos). I shoots great, about 3/8” 3 shot at 100 when I do my part.
I have an Criterion barrel on it.
Is you’re 6.5 a RPR”. Just curious since the rest of your post would be better as a separate post in the bolt action forum.
That being said, I have a Boyds laminated stock on my REM 783 in 300 WM. I got the At-One stock Because at the time it was the only one with the adjustable cheek piece. It seems ridged enough but I’d probably get the Pro Varmint stock next time for the extra heft. The inlet seemed pretty good but I did a minimal bedding job with shoe polish and JB Weld ( I’m sure there are a lot of YouTube videos). I shoots great, about 3/8” 3 shot at 100 when I do my part.
I have an Criterion barrel on it.
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Catalyst Arms. Matt makes a great quality product and a really nice guy to chat with. I had a small issue (not with his product) and he was very quick to help me out. I highly recommend all of his products, I have them all on my gen2 6.5 creed
Hey guys, I was wondering if there is any interest in bag riders for the RPR? I already make them for the AI family of rifles and the MRAD. They are 3d printed with PETG at a 50%fill rate and 5 layers on the outer shell. They have captive hardware that requires no tools for install. They are designed so the shooter can lay his off hand across the rider while applying rearward pressure and squeezing the bag to allow for fine vertical adjustment. What do you guys think?
Pretty cool - I just bought one from Catalyst, haven't shot with it yet. I like the 'hook' you have on the front for the support hand.
If it can be customized/improved, I'd suggest a bit of slope to the bottom, so you can move fore/aft on the bag for elevation adjustments. That's why I chose the Catalyst.
Just a thought.
I'd be open for one depending on price. As for the suggestion above about the angle, I'd like it flat, squeezing the bag does the elevation.
I'll second no noticeable difference with brake screws removed. I also left them out. I'm a Poor so I have a Harris bipod.
I load the ELD-M. I chose to try those first because my shooting partner also grabbed a few boxes of the factory Hornady to start with and they shot well. Rolling my own runs around $1.50ish a round so you'll save even more over factory ammo.
Saving that much money, your rifle ought to pay for itself sooner than you thought.
I'm fortunate in that I live in Grand Island Ne. just about a mile from Hornady. I've got quite a few of the 285 ELD seconds from them the last 1 1/2 years. Between buying 1st's from Midway and 2nd's from them I've got a ton of them sitting around. Snagged 300 of the discounted Lapua brass from Midway too. Right now in these times it's probably just as cheap or cheaper for me to shoot the LM RPR as it is anything else! Have about 1500 primers and was just lucky enough to get another 8# jug of Ramshot LRT 2 days ago from Grafs. Looks like I'll be shooting this rifle all summer long!
Do you have any pics of your rider on an RPR? I'm thinking I might prefer one that is a little longer on the bottom.
Forward or aft? These are 5.0 long on the bottom. I can print a modified one for SH members as long as the mods are not too time consuming.
Looks are deceiving in the pictures. 5" long? That makes them how tall...approx 3.5"? That height of course slides over the rail so how much does that actually raise the rear of the stock up?
I will measure it this afternoon, I do believe that its about 3 inches from the mating surface of the Picatinny rail, but I will post the exact dim the evening.
X2. Pretty happy with my 2 stage
You can wait for the TT, but I'm really happy with the Timney 2 Stage.
The TT 2 stage is great. Flat shoe, nice and crisp break. Definitely agree with you!
"Massive explosion" is the perfect term to use with the tank brake! It works great for taming recoil, but tremendously loud. I noticed a "bit" more recoil with my Elite Iron Sierra 338 suppressor in comparison to the brake. However, I don't even notice it now that I've shot it a bit. Especially considering how great it is to shoot with no hearing protection needed if I choose. Just wearing earplugs now when I shoot rather than plugs and muffs before. I've had others with me that were behind talking without ear protection that say it's about 22mag loud. That kind of suppression makes a big difference in recoil just from the anticipated blast you're expecting.
Very cool bagrider.
So I’m going to get an Atlas BT 65 bipod. Since the rifle has a RRS compatible dovetail rail integrated into the handguard is it worth it to get the RRS mount or just attach the bipod with the picatinny rail. I don’t know if I will take advantage of the additional movement of the bipod.
So I’m going to get an Atlas BT 65 bipod. Since the rifle has a RRS compatible dovetail rail integrated into the handguard is it worth it to get the RRS mount or just attach the bipod with the picatinny rail. I don’t know if I will take advantage of the additional movement of the bipod.
Hi guys.
I bought a 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger Precision. Awesome shooter, I shot a lot of handgun and shot gun competitions, but after years finally wanted a long range rifle.
I am shooting off bags, I am finding out bipods are not generic or cheap.
I am shooting 140 gr BTHP.
When I can get ammunition.
Zeiss scope and rings with bubble
I am reading through the last 4 years of post, but any recommendations for the bag in the back nad bipods. Any advice you have.
Once I got it zeroed I was shooting 3/4 groups
If you reload I am looking at Hornady bullets and powder. Primers are unheard of, but I am looking for large rifle primers.
I bought a 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger Precision. Awesome shooter, I shot a lot of handgun and shot gun competitions, but after years finally wanted a long range rifle.
I am shooting off bags, I am finding out bipods are not generic or cheap.
I am shooting 140 gr BTHP.
When I can get ammunition.
Zeiss scope and rings with bubble
I am reading through the last 4 years of post, but any recommendations for the bag in the back nad bipods. Any advice you have.
Once I got it zeroed I was shooting 3/4 groups
If you reload I am looking at Hornady bullets and powder. Primers are unheard of, but I am looking for large rifle primers.
Looking for a RPR .308 barrel. Used or maybe an in-stock decent deal somewhere? Would prefer a used take off right now.
I use a Harris bipod with pod talons (which I don’t think are made anymore). I use a couple scum bags in the back. They’re very adjustable yet steady when you want them to keep still. I have one filled more than the other so I can switch out based on how I have my bipod adjusted up front.
Well I ordered an Atlas bipod today and took the trigger spring out. Pretty much all I could do right now. It’s tough getting a new rifle and having to scour the ends of the earth to find stuff for it.
I am starting to get my .308 dialed in. This is 43.3 gr of Varget, 2.800 overall length, 168 gr Sierra HPBT. If I can quit shaking the rifle will shoot. Yesterday my blood sugar dropped which causes the shakes for me. Sometimes my hands shake so bad you would think that I have Parkinson's. Its like I run out of gas.
I just bought 100 of the new 169 gr bullets to try.
Oh, this was at 200 yards. Off a bipod. Eventually I would like to get a 24" barrel for this gun.
I just bought 100 of the new 169 gr bullets to try.
Oh, this was at 200 yards. Off a bipod. Eventually I would like to get a 24" barrel for this gun.
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